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Colin, I think you have the top of the brake hangers sticking out too far out from the inner frames, and that will be the cause of the interaction between buffers and brake hangers.

 

JB. 

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Thanks for the suggestion JB but i needed to bring them forward to enable the brake blocks to line up with the wheel treads rather than the flanges. The brakes are perpendicular and line up with the treads. I'm pretty sure the kit was designed for rigid buffers and it's an issue caused by the extra bulk of the sprung buffers.

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Don't forget that full size buffers don't go through the buffer beam, they are just bolted on its face and are self contained.

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Absolutely Michael.

 

I checked with Laurie Griffin in case I'd made an error and this was his kind response

 

Hello Colin,

It looks like you've come up with a novel solution to a common problem.  I sometimes think Railway Designers in the late 19th Century must have got together and said, "what can we do to make people in the future who make models of our loco's difficult"?

 

You have hit a common problem.  Real tenders didn't tend to have buffers with big nuts projecting inside the area taken up by things like wheels, brake pivots etc.  On many the nut/spigot on the buffer stock co-incides with the frame.  I have solved it variously by not springing the buffersw, cutting away the spigot and getting rid of the nut, using a split pin to hoild the buffer in etc.  You've just found another way round the problem - well done for a bit of lateral thinking!!!  Looks a fine solution to me.

 

Best wishes

Laurie Griffin

www.lgminiatures.co.uk

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The state of play at present is as follows with some major parts loosely placed in position for effect. Thanks to @Scale7JB for the tip about barkeepers friend, it's come up nice and shiny!

 

IMGP8920.jpg.b9073174364660ae7b0c942b249abcfa.jpg

 

IMGP8921.jpg.a9de28f6e51d8492264b4ef1185ebedc.jpg

 

IMGP8925.jpg.b2fddc0d603b669110ff3663e937ac54.jpg

 

 

Plan from here is to

  • paint the tender chassis black, then fit pickups
  • sort out buffing arrangements between tender and loco (either 4mm scale buffers or foam draft excluder)
  • shorten body screws where necessary and ensure fitting will go to plan
  • position DCC chip, speaker and wiring in loco chassis
  • spray tender and loco bodies with pre-primer
  • rattle can primer tender and loco bodies
  • spray bodies with airbrush
  • fit lining transfers
  • assemble chassis to bodies and test run
  • fit all loose detail parts (chimney, dome, safety valves, whistle, clack valves etc, pipes, reversing lever, sand boxes, cab details, tender floor, couplings, buffer heads and vac pipes)
  • brush paint all detail areas.

For something that looks quite close that feels like an awful lot of work still to do!

 

 

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Thanks to  the extraordinary service of Peters Spares the Bachmann 00 scale buffers I ordered yesterday are now fitted.

 

Seen in position, then simulated normal running,  tight curve, then finally tender first running.

 

20200205_143934.jpg.7d1394f97faaff360537cc93cbbddc7e.jpg

 

20200205_144027.jpg.79e89e7bcd588818c91d7defe26e56dd.jpg

 

20200205_144046.jpg.816b916dda91dc4b658cf1a97a6b2a7e.jpg

 

20200205_144104.jpg.e80d59d3b804c04227a556253798a84e.jpg

 

 

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We have a dcc fitted rolling chassis!

 

Plunger pickups fitted to the tender and connecting wire sorted, loco pickups and motor attached to DCC harness and chip/speaker/stayalive temporarily connected for testing.

 

:D

 

 

 

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Well done mate, nice slow running.

 

G

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Thanks G. She really is smooth on DCC. The loco builder box was a good shout too, the tender is whizzy now :D

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31 minutes ago, colin penfold said:

The loco builder box

 

Good old Poppy !

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So here's a quick chassis question. I have built the chassis using the spacers provided in the kit. I have used the bearings provided in the kit and the wheels and axles from slaters as recommended by Laurie. However, I can't help feeling that the back of the wheels are too tight against the surface of the bearings if I fully tighten them. Tighten them fully they bind a little. Ease off by an eigth of a turn and they run lovely. As you can see above it's running fine so I'm not going lose to much sleep over it. I wonder if i should take a bit off the surface of the bearings or the back of the wheels (or both) or should I leave well alone? Is it simply that it is possible to over-tighten the wheels on the axles? 

Edited by colin penfold
Addendum

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You can't overtighten Slater's wheels, file a bit off the bearing faces, leave the wheels alone.

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Thanks Ade. I'm very pleased. It has a massive flywheel and a great quality motor gearbox which hopefully overcome the defects of my chassis building!

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7 hours ago, colin penfold said:

It lives!

 

 

 

You're just showing off now ! :P:D:drink_mini:

 

Have you synchronised the motion to the wheels yet ?  Seems to be slightly out of sync to me or is it just me mate ?

 

Nice stuff never the less.

 

G

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It's not so much as out of sync. - more too many cylinders, 6 beats instead of 4 per revolution which is what you get with a 3 cylinder loco. Sounds good though and runs welll.

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I haven't done any adjustments to the chip which is as supplied. It's an adams radial sound file which I thought was the closest available to the Ilfracombe Goods, which of course is not available!

 

Both the radial and the IG are two cylinder locos so I should be able to get it right in due course.

 

 

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