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Minories are made of this


Harlequin
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1 minute ago, Harlequin said:

 

It's my shed, wot I built myself (apart from the concrete base and the fibreglass roof):

 

 

It's supposed to be used for finishing off my house but for various reasons my house became difficult and boring. Model railways are much more interesting! (My priorities are all scr*wed up...)

 

 

Hmm, nope - I'd say your priorities are spot on! ;) 
More great woodwork too btw

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3 hours ago, Siberian Snooper said:

What is it that you have used on the floor, please?

 

 

It was a water-based epoxy floor paint. I can't remember the brand but I found a product that was vapour-permeable so that damp in the concrete slab wouldn't de-bond the paint.

 

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48 minutes ago, Harlequin said:

The two boxes are done and will fit together OK I think.

 

 

Annoyingly the right hand box is ~2mm wider that the left, but only at the top. At track level everything lines up,as you can see:

 

 

That is because of the trouble I had with the dowels. I should have rejected that frame before I glued it into place. Ho hum...

 

Was the fore-cat's inspection satisfactory?

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39 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Was the fore-cat's inspection satisfactory?

 

It's never going to be more than satisfactory for the Fore-cat*, Usually Passable is a bonus...

 

 

*Unless you cover it in catnip.

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Today's task was to add some cross-bracing under the baseboards.

That meant I needed to know exactly where the point motors would go so I printed out the track plan at 1:1, cut the sheets of paper to size and laid them into the right hand box. (The left hand box doesn't have any turnouts so no need to worry about that one yet.)

The walls of the box meant that the printouts were very easy to align and I laid a couple of spare turnouts on top just to prove that everything had scaled and printed correctly. It all looks OK so far...

697451487_SAM_4453r.JPG.7f4f4db9a29e6bb92efe6786b37b9305.JPG

 

I decided to make diagonal cross-bracing to do two jobs at once: support the deck and resist twisting of the box. It took a bit of maths followed by trial and error to get the lengths and angles right!

719408888_SAM_4461r.JPG.2ae54a2a1517a472023b28c84300d72c.JPG

 

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Good precaution the diagonals. I've got two similarly sized baseboards of similar construction on the go at the moment with only transversal bracing, and they will twist slightly if asked to. If I was about to lay fine-scale track and scenery on them I'd be adding diagonals.

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Only problem with diagonals is getting wires through them.  Bitter experience has taught me that no matter how many wiring holes you drill in them before installing them you have only about a third of the ones you need and they are in the wrong place....

 

That then puts you in the position of trying to get a drill onto a piece of wood that is at an angle without enough room to get the drill straight....

 

Les

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22 minutes ago, Les1952 said:

Only problem with diagonals is getting wires through them.  Bitter experience has taught me that no matter how many wiring holes you drill in them before installing them you have only about a third of the ones you need and they are in the wrong place....

 

That then puts you in the position of trying to get a drill onto a piece of wood that is at an angle without enough room to get the drill straight....

 

Les

The way to go with diagonals is to drill them with a big hole hole cutting saw. The same way you would when reliving weight. Just pop 5 or 6 40mm holes in each one before you fit them and the jobs a good un. Downside, it's a pain in the backside. Upside, it saves weight and makes wiring up easier.

Regards Lez. 

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Just now, lezz01 said:

The way to go with diagonals is to drill them with a big hole hole cutting saw. The same way you would when reliving weight. Just pop 5 or 6 40mm holes in each one before you fit them and the jobs a good un. Downside, it's a pain in the backside. Upside, it saves weight and makes wiring up easier.

Regards Lez. 

Did that- still not enough when using copper tape to make a DCC bus.

 

Les

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2 hours ago, Les1952 said:

Only problem with diagonals is getting wires through them.  Bitter experience has taught me that no matter how many wiring holes you drill in them before installing them you have only about a third of the ones you need and they are in the wrong place....

 

That then puts you in the position of trying to get a drill onto a piece of wood that is at an angle without enough room to get the drill straight....

 

Les

 

The diagonals don't have to be the same height as the sides - then you can run the wiring under the diagonals.

 

Edit: by "under" I mean with the layout in normal orientation, not upside-down as in Phil's photos. The diagonals should be fitted up against, and glued to, the baseboard surface.

Edited by St Enodoc
Clarity
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2 hours ago, Les1952 said:

Did that- still not enough when using copper tape to make a DCC bus.

 

Les

even easier drill a few 3mm holes and  thread solid copper stripped from 1.5mm lighting cable if your using more than its rated amps  there something wrong with your system and really easy to solder droppers to  as a added advantaged really cheap

 

still each to their own

 

Nick B 

Edited by nick_bastable
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On 10/06/2020 at 15:35, D9020 Nimbus said:

Glasgow certainly had low-level suburban sections—still does, and once some small urban termini too. Operated in the 1950s by N2s, V1/3s, Fairburn and standard 2-6-4Ts. On the Caledonian side in the 1960s as it fell into decline even Claytons could occasionally be seen…

I've only visited Queen Street once or twice but it did give me the Minories feeling, with mainline stuff too.

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13 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

 

The diagonals don't have to be the same height as the sides - then you can run the wiring under the diagonals.

 

Edit: by "under" I mean with the layout in normal orientation, not upside-down as in Phil's photos. The diagonals should be fitted up against, and glued to, the baseboard surface.

 

I realised that AFTER I'd glued the diagonals in place.....
 

Les

 

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Bracing all fitted:

1964779101_SAM_4473r.JPG.e05c048084296e3a7f3fe3791c023fc7.JPG

 

Both boxes are now absolutely rigid and square! Those few diagonal braces make an amazing difference. It was important to clamp the boxes to be as square as possible, and to flatten out the warping in the baseboards, while the braces were glued into place because the braces set the shape of everything permanently.

 

The bottom box in this photo carries the throat pointwork and you can see that I adjusted the bracing to avoid the point motors:

1444694634_SAM_4465r.JPG.0de2dfac38ca0120fe99ca560e5685d7.JPG

Edited by Harlequin
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I found a couple of hours this weekend to add some hardware.

 

I tried very hard to get the hinge barrels in line with each other:

SAM_4478r.JPG.99626a454ca5ebe778b56f5b06e63fe6.JPG

 

It didn't really work because one hinge is definitely at and angle but the two boxes do still fold successfully and meet neatly when one is on top of the other.

 

I also fixed two latches to hold the boxes tightly together in unfolded, operating mode. I'll add some more to hold the boxes together in transport mode when I get them.

SAM_4480r.JPG.60e4159d596b3e56552c0239e466e90c.JPG

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