Robed Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 I am building a djh wd 2-8-0 and fancy trying a high level motor/gearbox to fit Can anyone offer guidance on which one will be suitable thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 If you look at High Levels gear box page you can print out a page of full size side on views (gear box planner?) of his range to aid you in choosing a gear box, or give Chris a call. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 (edited) Took the words out of my mouth Gordon! Nearly had an exact duplicate pair of posts. Great minds etc. etc................ Edited August 25, 2020 by 5050 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robed Posted August 25, 2020 Author Share Posted August 25, 2020 Thanks for this has anyone done what I am trying to do? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 I have some slightly smaller DJH tender locos in the to build pile. Cannot thing of a better make of gearbox to use. As for which one to use in one way its a personal choice but on the other hand iy will depend on which wheel is going to be driven / what needs to be avoided / final position of the motor. Though space between the mainframes may come into the calculations. I tend to settle on RoadRunners or RoadRunner +, The LoadHauler range may also be of interest. I also like Chris' Coreless motors which work very well, especially when yo look at the prices the last few Mashima's are fetching Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robed Posted August 26, 2020 Author Share Posted August 26, 2020 Thanks for the comments I will do some measurements and contact high level just to be sure Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted August 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 26, 2020 Look at the width of the gearbox as well as its profile, some will be too wide to fit between DJH frames in 00 gauge - most are OK though. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 26, 2020 Make sure the motor you use is slim enough to pass up through the narrow waisted firebox. When I built one to P4 some time back - decades actually! - I stuffed a Mashima 16x30 in the tender with an underfloor shaft to the loco to give it a decent haulage level. Izzy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted August 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 26, 2020 Most motors aren't that big now, the 16mm diameter cans were a problem in many locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 26, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 26, 2020 Yes, but pretty unbeatable in terms of bottom end grunt with ‘average’ 40-1 reductions. I often worry about the use of undersized motors with these kind of reductions today. Okay if used with PWM and/or DCC these days although they might suffer a bit, but higher reductions I.e. 60-80-1 are usually viewed as being too slow at top whack for many. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 I've still got the Mashima 1830 I bought years ago for a tender powered 9F I was planning. Much to big for anything I tend to build these days! But never say never.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 26, 2020 Share Posted August 26, 2020 4 hours ago, 5050 said: I've still got the Mashima 1830 I bought years ago for a tender powered 9F I was planning. Much to big for anything I tend to build these days! But never say never.......... Keep it for a couple more years as they are still quite common, but as time goes by they will increase in value Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 That reminds me. I have a lovely Sagami 2236 that's supposed to be going in the tender of an old tender-drive Hornby Duchess. But it won't be driving the tender wheels. It will drive the first and third driven axles in the locomotive. The loco body will be full of lead and the coupling rods will just be along for the ride Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 6 hours ago, AndyID said: That reminds me. I have a lovely Sagami 2236 that's supposed to be going in the tender of an old tender-drive Hornby Duchess. But it won't be driving the tender wheels. It will drive the first and third driven axles in the locomotive. The loco body will be full of lead and the coupling rods will just be along for the ride Andy That's fine for those who have engineering skills, but us mere mortals have to rely on others to design and make the components As for universal joints, I bought an Exactoscale kit but it was nearly as stiff as a metal rod, I do have a couple of old ERG ones though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 On 26/08/2020 at 13:07, 5050 said: I've still got the Mashima 1830 I bought years ago for a tender powered 9F I was planning... But why the thought of powering the tender when it will fit in the firebox and a fully concealed gear train can be taken down through the ashpan to the fourth axle? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 7 hours ago, hayfield said: Andy That's fine for those who have engineering skills, but us mere mortals have to rely on others to design and make the components As for universal joints, I bought an Exactoscale kit but it was nearly as stiff as a metal rod, I do have a couple of old ERG ones though Hi John, Universals are easy. Two concentric square brass tubes (or hex if you can find any) and some silicone model aircraft fuel line tube. I'll post a pic later. A 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5050 Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 4 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said: But why the thought of powering the tender when it will fit in the firebox and a fully concealed gear train can be taken down through the ashpan to the fourth axle? No fully concealed gear trains back in those days! Long before Bachmann 9F appeared, I was going to use a Kitmaster one. It was going to be an exercise in 'engineering' with Ultrascale bevel gears (still got them), step-down geartrains etc. etc. Finally decided it was going to be to much of a faff so I built a Pannier tank instead........ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Pics of universal. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Andy What about the big hole in the tender front ? Like the filing jig though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 5 minutes ago, hayfield said: Andy What about the big hole in the tender front ? Like the filing jig though There's already one there for the coal. (You just need to take the doors off.) In practice it's not very obvious and if anyone objects you tell them the whole thing an automatic stoker The difference in performance with a large diameter, low-speed motor is truly amazing. That Black Five is absolutely relentless and almost silent. I must get moving and finish Duchess Of Atholl. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 Try the larger of High Levels coreless motors, Chris recons they are very powerful Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 9 minutes ago, hayfield said: Try the larger of High Levels coreless motors, Chris recons they are very powerful I'm using a motor with 10mNm which is twice as much. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 OK but its so much larger, the Hugh Level will sit in the firebox/boiler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyID Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 17 minutes ago, hayfield said: OK but its so much larger, the Hugh Level will sit in the firebox/boiler But then you can't stuff the firebox full of lead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 How much lead does a loco need ? I have a Mainline plastic loco on a High Level etched chassis (CSP) and it runs like a treat and the sides of the panniers still have plenty of room for some extra ballast Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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