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00 inglenook project - Tunstead Moor


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No problem Andrew - plenty to be getting on with at this end.. Wiring the boards and having a day with the soldering iron and attaching the walkaround to its din socket.. Hoping to actually get something running by the end of the day just to make sure I know what I'm doing lol..

Edited by Ighten
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Today was a day of  poor eyesight and missing wire --- But we managed -- we will correct the errors later.. I started by laying out a basic bus wire along the board which is the method I usually use.. On this layout I am keeping it super super simple as its super super small... The only reason I have kept the bus wire idea in place is that I may want to go DCC later so its more future proofing than anything.. So basically nothing more complex than a set of red and black cables of generous thickness running the length of the board that match the black and white droppers from each section of track and all the point throats that are in place... 

 

Now its time to look at the DC power..  I want to use Din plug in controllers (I can swap from my Gaugemaster W to my Gaugemaster feedback though I suspect the latter wont be seeing much use - it seems in the years I have been away that they basically don't work with certain types of motors (the only 00 engine I have being one of them) - but at least its still easy to just plug and change))

 

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My Din socket is ready and waiting - my eyesight though is OMG seriously!!!! --- after a cpl of hours though we seem to have wired it up..  I have to admit to a serious skool boy  error that will be corrected for OCD reasons if nothing else.. I could not find any yellow or blue wire to continue the colour coding to the controllers plug wiring - I hate having  wiring  that doesn't follow through..  Not a big issue I will change it once I think about setting the socket into a facia which I can't really do yet . I was tempted to set it into the 2"x1" structure pine until I discovered I have about a hundred blunt 12mm drills (too small) and a few 20mm (too big) but nothing in between.

 

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So I'm running my incorrectly coloured (just shoot me now) but labelled wiring from the tiny  circuit board to the Din and we should have a  running train. (I think)

 

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Edited by Ighten
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Posted (edited)

Last few days have been spent on the wiring on the baseboards.. Im using some Wago connectors I had to connect up the droppers to the bus so no soldering required. This particular brand I have always had great success with - the fit is secure and a resistance and voltage test shows no effect to the power. 

 

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Other jobs I could get on with was tidying up the front fascia  ready to drill the din socket into. I think the RH point seems to be still having a Peter May adventure of its very own :)

 

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Now to find an 18mm drill in the depths of the woodshed.

 

 

 

Edited by Ighten
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  • 3 weeks later...

OK work and odd jobs asside its time for an update... The Din socket is now wired into the fascia board and tested as working.

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The side boards were also constructed and finished out of more MDF.

 

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We have also started to make a little progress on scenery layers..  On top of the original black paint I am adding a method of earth layers which will then be followed by patchy static grass at a later date.. I want to try to avoid the carpet of grass that can sometimes take over. For this I mixed some old Javis sand and stone with brown earth scatter. This is set with matt PVA and then later i'll randomly build up the static grass in areas so that this partly shows through. Thats for much later though.

 

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Im still thinking at the moment of buildings etc - I dont want to overwhelm the layout with too much.. TRack has had an initial blasting of sleeper grime and will get some more work when ballasting is complete (a job I always put off - though prefer to do after the earth layer is down)

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Sorry for the poor quality of pics but I thought  I may as well show some progress .. I have added to the earth base layer with some very fine turf layer .. I'm keeping it random how this next layer goes on top of the  earthy sand (on top of mod roc)  and it could be argued the end result is a little like a rather bizarre coloured  cheetah but once this dries its like solid rock and you can apply base glue or thickish pva on top for your static grass to sit on..

 

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You may notice I have made a start on the ballast as well --- I'm using DCC concepts brown blend the 00 scale mixed with a about 20% N scale.  The colours allow a great flow in to the earth colours I'm using  though I have to admit I'm probably the only person who'll notice this by the time its finished.. Basically Im just fed up with grey and am applying rule 1 no matter what..

 

 

 

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Not to confuse anyone but the gap in the boards will lead to the fiddle yard but I have now relocated to the "woodland" bedroom  which means if I accidently ran a loco off the layout it would have a hell of a journey to a hard oak floor so safety first until the fiddle yard actually exists...

 

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Even though the fine turf looks quite proud its set like concrete so its a firm base for thick glue and the static to sit on - It does seem a backward way of doing it but I just prefer this method as it allows you to break up the space from the start..  That 7 plank seriously needs weathering though and as this is a very simple and quick inglenook  I'm trying the GLR couplings - Hand of God but not as fiddly as tensions and with way way way more realistic gaps.. Even on short points I have no issues with a short length GLR  on the loco extending about  1mm from the buffer and the wagons being the same (though these Oxfords need a "long" to actually reach that)  --- They are firmer though than I envisioned - I have a plan :)

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I like the idea of putting some stuff down first, as it gives the static grass a base to cling to.

Nice work on your layout.

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Posted (edited)

Continuing on I have added the first layer of static grass on top of the turf -  a mix of 2mm spring and 4mm patchy - Im not sure what you would call the look  I'm aiming for - sort of moorland tor.. I just make it up as I go along and adjust with the layers as I progress.

 

 

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Im not 100% sold on the GLR couplings - they are great for rakes where you want close scale coupling but they need such a tug to break the magnetic force you actually can end up ripping the coupling out of the NEM socket as they are not all a brilliant tight fit being 3d printed .. Think I may use Kadees not so much for the auto feature but just for the close coupling and the fact you can just lift and seperate without it being such a tug of war.

Edited by Ighten
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Posted (edited)

So I have completed the first two levels of grass 2mm and 4mm all the wal along the front of the layout and embankment.. I will add some 6mm in places and also need to work out the best way to make gorse bushed with specks of yellow to allow a little more interest etc..

 

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Im happy with the colours - maybe some specks of purple as well for heather will be part of the final detail.

 

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The stream bed will next get an ink wash to darken it down before larger pebbles  added etc to represent poking above  stream bed. WIll then make some reed like grasses for the area as well. I need to work out how the bridge area is actually working - more of a culvert than a bridge perhaps set into a rock face.

 

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Think Ill now start making some temp buildings though to see how this looks with buildings. 

 

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Edited by Ighten
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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

So just amall update to reflect the small amount of progress; the start of Spring has ment many many jobs in the gardens now need attention so I have not had as much time to devote inside. I cant decide on either to use an ID backscene clouds or countryside or just stick with painted blue - I'm not sure a printed backscene would work on such a compact layout..

 

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I have also started to build up the scenery banks a little at the rear to blend in with the backscene board - I had left this till now as I wasn't sure on building sizes and positions etc

 

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The rest of the time has been slowly catching up with the dreaded ballasting -  a job I have never really got along with but so far so good - the secret does seem to be getting it really wet before going near with the glue..

 

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Edited by Ighten
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Posted (edited)

If I had to start again one thing I would do slightly differently is allow myself just a spare inch or two between the line nearest the backscene and the actual backscene board.. I was so concentrated on creating space at the front of the board to give the impression of openess and space that I forgot how I was going to really tackle having such  a blunt horizon..

 

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So Im copying a method I have seen on Boomers you tube channel where he adds vertical 2d scenery pieces - which are flocked and detailed just as you would the rest of the layout - the only difference being these wil stand vertical and with some shading and well placed half profile trees should help create some depth. You can see above on the right hand side how this would work with the foam 2d piece in place.

 

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So its time then to see if the scenery flows from front to back and  looks ok when continued into the backscene and I'll use the small mound I have painted brown already to try.  Earthed ,sanded and flocked in the same way with 2mm and then a 4mm mix as I did with the rest; its getting there I think.. Maybe some more layers of 6mm later and some tufts in places - then detail with brambles etc... Seam lines will be removed with an airbrush

 

 

Edited by Ighten
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Just decided to test the track work and give the track itself another good clean after all that glue and misting thats been going on - so we have a visitor to try everything out.

 

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Which reminds me - where would the lamps be placed on an engine thats basically just running a small yards and exchanging wagons..

 

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Posted (edited)

OK so here's an example of how the 2D vertical bit of landscape Im having to squeeze in due to lack of space is working --  The area to the left of the 1361 engine is the embankment that was built up in the photo a couple of posts ago  - where as the area to the right of the is the vertical flat area decorated in the same way.

 

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It looks slightly darker because its stood vertically meaning less light is falling on the actual grass so I may have to correct that with the airbrush but the idea will be that most of it will be hidden by a few trees and buildings and trees anyway so I may leave it so it looks like the trees shadow that area. You get a better idea from this angle.

 

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Sorry about the spotty marks - the cameras lens or something desperately needs a clean

 

 

 

Edited by Ighten
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This is a very evocative image, and from eye level the background moundage works very well and gives a sense of depth that belies that actual dimensions. The feeling of being high on an exposed moor is really captured. For my two-cent's worth, I'd avoid too many trees or anything that could cast a shadow on the backscene. 

 

I could imagine maybe half an inch to an inch of distant hills/moorland, maybe by cutting down an ID backscene so it's mainly a cloudscape with fells a few millimeters the horizon level in this shot.

 

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22 hours ago, Off Tackle said:

This is a very evocative image, and from eye level the background moundage works very well and gives a sense of depth that belies that actual dimensions. The feeling of being high on an exposed moor is really captured. For my two-cent's worth, I'd avoid too many trees or anything that could cast a shadow on the backscene. 

 

I could imagine maybe half an inch to an inch of distant hills/moorland, maybe by cutting down an ID backscene so it's mainly a cloudscape with fells a few millimeters the horizon level in this shot.

 

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Your probably right and may have hit on the solution - the only issue I found before was the backscenes just took over  and so I went for the simple blue paint.. It never occurred to me that I could have  a backscene that just suggested depth by cutting it down (perhaps even using a 2mm).... Now to  find one that isn't too green and why do they come in lengths to build 3+ of my layouts lol

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Personally I prefer simple paint to photographic or pre-printed backgrounds, but it's hardly a universal viewpoint. I've seen some hand painted backdrops that look great and many more where the execution isn't up to the modelling...

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3 hours ago, ManofKent said:

Personally I prefer simple paint to photographic or pre-printed backgrounds, but it's hardly a universal viewpoint. I've seen some hand painted backdrops that look great and many more where the execution isn't up to the modelling...

 

I have to admit that all my "go to" favourite layouts for inspiration, feature nothing more than the plain painted background -- I have only seen a few who have managed to blend (especially IDs HD photo backscenes) well into the layout..

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Not sure what happened there but the editor seemed to keep wanting to add an old quote  so feel free to delete as I cant find a delete button..

 

Moving on

 

I probably said it on day one of this thread or at least page one  but it really has become time to not only decide if the ideas for buildings work - but more to the point do they actually fit.... lol

 

Now on paper everything fitted perfectly till  a cpl of weeks ago I decided I needed more back drop landscape rather than just a picture of the landscape;  and boy does 8mm extra depth (2x4mm lots of poly basically) make a big difference..

 

The main goods building  is your simple Wills goods shed - though it will be sat on a length of platform twice the length of the building and altered here and there to suit.. However the only way I can now get it to fit is if I remove the piece of vertical landscape I added a few days ago for depth (see a few posts back)..

 

Call me stupid or it may have been the red wine but I spent far to long working out how to cut a corner out of the shed so it would fit, or a notch into the background before it occurred to me I could simply trim back the depth of the polystyrene with nothing more complicated than a craft knife....  

 

Anyway looking forward to getting this painted up..

 

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I seriously need to stop buying Oxford plank wagons - they don't really suit the era I have in mind but they are just so easy on the eye lol... At the moment the shed sits on its wooden supports as supplied but Im going to extend these out to the left of the building, add boarding for a platform and position the yard crane on this... 

 

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I also started trying out Wills granite sets and details like ratio ground signals just to see how I need to order things up for the paint shop..

 

Edited by Ighten
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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Gordon A said:

In this type of layout there would not be any ground or any other type of signal.

 

Gordon A

 

True - but in  a small diorama (and basically this is just a prettified cutdown inglenook)  it is important to have detail (but not too much) even if its false details.. If I don't put the ground signals down I lack pin points of white amongst the landscape and man made structure.. This is why I like to throw unpainted unweathered items on initially (so it jumps out) and then decide if it stays; needs repositioning (probably unprototypically)   or goes back in the spares box....

 

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One thing I cant quite get my head around is the kadee I need   -- All I need to negotiate is  short points so I can get away with realistic distances (I think - from trials with no couplings or NLR magnetics)  but I cant work out from the packaging description how kadee measure in mm an NEM coupling -- 

Edited by Ighten
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I can't help with the Kadee size - I think I'm just going to pop down to the Hobby Shop and buy a packet of each of the three sizes they stock and try and see. 

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Just found your layout Ighten. It's looking great, a nice simple plan and well executed. I like the way you've raised the trackbed, that just makes for a bit more interest with the scenery, great stuff! I'll be following this with interest :)

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On 06/05/2021 at 22:56, Ighten said:

 

One thing I cant quite get my head around is the kadee I need   -- All I need to negotiate is  short points so I can get away with realistic distances (I think - from trials with no couplings or NLR magnetics)  but I cant work out from the packaging description how kadee measure in mm an NEM coupling -- 

 

I ended up buying a pack of 18, 19 and 20 to trial. With Oxford wagons I liked the 19's best (might need to go 20 with longer tight curves, but 19s were fine for a single ST222 (short/half length R1) and short Ys.

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