DLT's SR Locos - Lord Nelson Craftsman Kit

[30368]

Hi Dave,

 

Really good point regarding chassis spacers. Your point is true of many kits and there is always plenty of material on wheel bearing faces to create the required side-play.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[Jack P]

Dave, you might've seen that i've been busy at work the last few days and re-read your thread (for the umpteenth time). To me, some real standouts, among all of the high quality builds you've done are the E5x and the A12. Absolutely phenomenal job!

 

I have to ask, how on earth do you get the cream interiors of you cabs so consistent and even? I find that even with multiple coats of brush painted cream, mine just doesn't have the same coverage. Yours looks thick, without being so thick as to lose detail - if you get my drift?

Edited August 5, 2020 by Jack P

[DLT]

On 04/08/2020 at 21:10, Jack P said:

Dave, you might've seen that i've been busy at work the last few days and re-read your thread (for the umpteenth time). To me, some real standouts, among all of the high quality builds you've done are the E5x and the A12. Absolutely phenomenal job!

 

Thanks very much Jack, I'm glad you find it useful.  I lost count of the many hundred "Likes" you have added, you will wear out the button!

 

On 04/08/2020 at 21:10, Jack P said:

I have to ask, how on earth do you get the cream interiors of you cabs so consistent and even? I find that even with multiple coats of brush painted cream, mine just doesn't have the same coverage. Yours looks thick, without being so thick as to lose detail - if you get my drift?

 

My recippe for cab interior cream has been a bit "trial and error".  I haven't found a single paint that looks correct, so I've experimented with a bit of mixing.  The're all Humbrol, and the three I've used are 63 Sand, 103 Cream, and 121 Pale Stone.  The colour card shows my mixes of one with another in equal amounts, and at the bottom, all three.  Even though these matt paints are fairly thick, it usually takes three coats minimum to build up a solid colour over grey primer .  White primer would probably be better.

 

 

 

The colours don't look quite right in the photo, that piece of card should be white.

 

Hope this helps!

Cheers, Dave.

 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

Been a bit quiet of the modelling front over that last week, various domestic matters demanding attention.

I haven't been completely idle though!

Pickups are done and we have a working chassis.  All very traditions, wipers on the backs of rigid wheels, and on the rims of those with sideplay.  This way the springy pressure isn't pushing them sideways.

Pickup plates screwed to the chassis spacers, with a 10ba nut soldered on the other-side.  I will replace the screws with shorter ones.

 

 

 

 

Working on the cylinders and motion now.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT

[gz3xzf]

Hi Dave

What make/size of wheels are you using and which gear-box?

(Sorry if you posted this already )

[DLT]

Hi Bryan,

The wheels are Markits, 18mm diameter.  I don't know what their code number is, they came as the complete "wheel set" for this loco; which includes crankpins, axlenut covers and balance weights.

Gearbox is a Highlevel Loadhauler-Plus.  Its still listed as 60:1, but since the redesign the reduction is actually 68:1

All the best,

Dave.

[30368]

Hi David,

 

Are you pleased with the motor/gearbox combination?

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

[DLT]

4 hours ago, 30368 said:

Are you pleased with the motor/gearbox combination?

 

I think we can safely say yes!

 

 

Edited August 11, 2020 by DLT

[30368]

I think I heard some motor noise then, no just imagining it!

 

Lovely work David.

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard

[Jack P]

I ordered one of Chris's new motors the other night. How would you compare it to similar Mashimas?

[Michael Edge]

I've just used one of these, just as good as the Mashima and cheaper, it is very quiet.

[hayfield]

5 hours ago, Jack P said:

I ordered one of Chris's new motors the other night. How would you compare it to similar Mashimas?

 

 

Jack

 

If its the coreless motor they are excellent motors as you would expect and cheaper than what many sellers are now asking for their Mashimas.

 

I have also got one of Chris's cheaper Iron frame motors, again for the price it works very well. To be quite honest I had severe doubts about it when I ordered it, which were quite unfounded.

[DLT]

7 hours ago, Jack P said:

I ordered one of Chris's new motors the other night. How would you compare it to similar Mashimas?

 

Seems great!  So far its only trundled up and down on test, as in the video above, but smooth, quiet and controllable, using a standard Gaugemaster.

Chris does two sizes, 1219 and 1320, significantly smaller than the equivalent Mashimas. 

Everyone's giving them good recommendations, so buy with confidence!

Cheers, Dave.

[DLT]

I've been building the valvegear in fits and starts this week, but at last its done.  Its been a bit fiddly this time, mainly caused by me making cockups, or trying to be too clever and making a "rod for my own back".  It wouldn't be the first time....

Anyway here it is, a complete removable sub-assembly.  I haven't attached it to the cylinders this time, as they are already a separate sub-assembly.

 

 

 

And attached to the chassis,

 

 

 

Time to get on with a bit of bodywork now.

Cheers, Dave.

Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT

[DLT]

And just to prove that it works:

 

 

[DLT]

If you're not sure who valvegear works, there is a really good demonstration model on Youtube here:

 

Walschearts Demonstration

 

 

[Jack P]

On 22/08/2020 at 05:52, DLT said:

If you're not sure who valvegear works, there is a really good demonstration model on Youtube here:

 

Walschearts Demonstration

 

This is a very useful video Dave , I can see it being very handy moving forward.

 

The Z chassis looks great. You've done an excellent job, and all looks to be running smoothly. 

 

What livery will the loco be finished in?

Edited August 23, 2020 by Jack P

[DLT]

17 hours ago, Jack P said:

What livery will the loco be finished in?

 

Thanks for your comments, and thanks to everyone for all the "likes".

Its going to be in BR mucky black

Cheers, Dave.

[Jack P]

On 12/02/2018 at 12:36, DLT said:

 

 

 

 

Apologies for jumping back a ways Dave, but what's the name of this handy looking instrument?

[cctransuk]

10 hours ago, Jack P said:

 

 

Apologies for jumping back a ways Dave, but what's the name of this handy looking instrument?

 

Unimat miniature machine vice.

 

John Isherwood.

[DLT]

2 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Unimat miniature machine vice.

John Isherwood.

 

Thanks John,

Its a super little machine vice; I've had it for years but can't remember where I got it from.

[Jack P]

Hi Dave

 

Congrats on reaching 70 pages!

 

I called Phoenix the other night and placed an order for one of the Ex-DMR Z's. I've gone back had a look at the original Z build you did, and the most recent updates, I have a few questions (I was going to PM, but these might benefit someone else?)

 

- When widening the chassis did you run into any issues with the cylinder block?

- How did you move the rear motion bracket back by 1mm, did you just file the slot?

- In your first build you had to fettle the smokebox saddle to get the boiler to sit level, have you also had to do this on this build?

 

Appreciate your photos and write ups to date. looking forward to further progress 

[DLT]

On 27/08/2020 at 01:04, Jack P said:

When widening the chassis did you run into any issues with the cylinder block?

No.  The kit is designed for the frames to be set to 00 or EM width, the cylinder block accommodates both.  It screws to the frame spacer, and that sets its position 

 

On 27/08/2020 at 01:04, Jack P said:

How did you move the rear motion bracket back by 1mm, did you just file the slot?

Yes.  And making it a screw-on sub-assembly allows you to position it accurately without relying on the accuracy of your filing the slot to position it.

 

On 27/08/2020 at 01:04, Jack P said:

In your first build you had to fettle the smokebox saddle to get the boiler to sit level, have you also had to do this on this build?

Haven't got to that bit yet!

The smokebox saddle was a right fiddle and I didn't manage to get right.  Its a very distinctive shape, and I think a resin-cast or 3D-print might be a better way of capturing it rather than a fold-up etch.

 

Hope this helps!

Dave.

[DLT]

On 27/08/2020 at 01:04, Jack P said:

Congrats on reaching 70 pages!

I wondered what you were going to say then...!

[DLT]

Sorry for the delays, too many domestic and work-related matters to deal with lately.  Anyway, state of play with the bodywork:

 

 

Jack has asked about the beading and details.  Unlike many kits, the cabsides etc are not half-etched to leave the detail proud.  They are full thickness, with half-etched recesses for the full-thickness etched details (cab spectacle-frames etc) to fit into.  This may sound like a faff, but they fit beautifully and its simple to solder them in with low-melt (I use 145-degree) solder.  This as actually a lot LESS of a faff than trying to laminate a flimsy half-etched sheet onto a thicker one, while getting it positioned correctly with no ripples in it! 

It all looks a bit rough in this cruel enlargement, but it looks fine in "real-life"!

 

 

Beading for the tank and bunker-tops is a narrow strip with a half-etched step to locate it.  Fiddly, but it fits very nicely, and looks great when done. 

This is is the cab-cutout beading:

 

 

Probably the biggest fiddle of the lot, it has to be curved in both planes to fit in the cutout, and finished with the handrail bosses equally spaced in the opening!

 

 

Like all the detail, the footsteps are exquisite etchings that fit together perfectly:

 

 

And here is it all plonked together:

 

 

Edited September 7, 2022 by DLT