Putting trees in to open frame scenery

[pirouets]

I am miles away from the point where I start putting trees on the layout but a question has popped into my head that could affect how I build the layout.

 

I am creating my land form with wood formers spaced out, strips of card to form a base layer and then modroc. So with a thin but string surface, do I glue all the trees in place, or is there another way of anchoring the trees?

[Tim V]

Portable or permanent layout?

[Barry Ten]

A clothespeg clamped to the base of the tree will at least hold it level until the glue sets.

[Kris]

If the trees are built of wire, split the bundle into 3 or 4 to form roots that push against the underside of the scenery. When spaced right these will keep the tree in the correct position.

[Oldddudders]

Some Woodland Scenics trees, maybe other makes, too, have (heavy) metal trunks which make them quite hard to prop up in the sort of situation you are describing. I have never found a clever answer to that, maybe others have?

[Jenny Emily]

To add strength you could use strips of scrap wood beneath where the trees are to go that can have a hole drilled into them and the trees glued in that to firmly anchor them and protect them from sinking into or pulling out of the ground cover. If you have already laid the terrain, that might not be feasible though. Luckily I've been able to attach all the trees on 'Grove Street' straight through the plywood base. For good measure I then drill and glue blocks of scrap balsa on the underside around where each tree base comes through to give them a little extra support and longevity.

[Donw]

If you have access to a builders mastic gun try megagrip or no nails. Drill or auger a hole for the tree squirt a bit of mastic into the hole then push the tree in. Hold for about 2 mins or support the tree whilst setting. If you can get to the underside put a bit extra round the under side for extra strength the following day. Ideally tree sould have a central spike which goes into the senic base and roots which spread onto the surface. This is much stronger.

Don

[Captain Kernow]

If you can, sink a piece of brass tube into the scenery, anchor it underneath with additional bits of timber or whatever means you prefer, then place the tree spigot into the top end of the brass tube. Works a treat for portable layouts as well. The longer the spigot or bit of brass wire/rod protruding from the base of the tree, the less likely it will wobble around.

[Coombe Barton]

Has anyone used something like drilling into the base of the trunk and glueuing in a piece of studding/threaded rod (with a nut sunk into the glue for stability) Then when set plonking that into a piece of wood and then a wing nut on the bottom? I've been experimenting with soldered wire construction and could see the benefits of removable trees. I'm also thinking big trees - 11 inches or so.

[HLT 0109]

I have made my scenery from polystyrene covered with plaster bandage. I found it easy to shape the landform and the modroc gives a thin but strong skin (as you say). My tress are made from sea moss so are very light but all I have needed to do to fix them is to dip the tip of the trunk into PVA adhesive, push a fine screwdriver through the modroc into the polystyrene and insert the trunk.

[pirouets]

Thanks for all the replies. From this it has made me think that a small test bed should be built that can test the following before I butcher the whole layout.

 

1. Open frame covered in Modroc V carved polystyrene

2. Tree planting methods that go with open frame

3. How to best set the bridge over the tracks in to both of these

4. alternative ballasting methods. (I fancy another go with cascamite powder)

5. Static grass and other ground cover techniques

 

I'll add something to my Hemerdon thread as I get going with this.

[Kris]

When I have added bridges into existing scenery Steve, it has never looked right. Having learnt from this I now always add the bridges when I am building the base level scenery so that I can then build this up around the supports and so on.

[pirouets]

Kris, you have read my mind as that is what I was trying to convey, but failing to do so.

[Captain Kernow]

For information, here is a diagram of how my system for removeable trees works:

 

[Tim V]

I use the same method as the esteemed Captain for an exhibition layout, I find that 1/8" ID plastic tube is a lot cheaper than brass. The trees can be unplugged and put in a separate box for transport, thus saving enormous amounts of space in the packing of the boards.

 

For a permanent layout I would stick the trees down differently, hence my question.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Never having installed a tree on a layout (Doncaster didn't build them) but having seen a forest on an open frame permanent layout I can only report what I have observed. Underneath the scenic shell, rectangles of ply were supported off the frame at various angles. Dowels from the bottom of the tree trunks (pines) went through holes driled in the ply. The build order was put in the ply pieces with the holes drilled, then build the scenic shell over, then poke up from below through the holes in the ply to locate the holes required in the scenic shell, 'plant' the trees, make good with pine litter.

[HLT 0109]

Thanks for all the replies. From this it has made me think that a small test bed should be built that can test the following before I butcher the whole layout.

 

1. Open frame covered in Modroc V carved polystyrene

2. Tree planting methods that go with open frame

3. How to best set the bridge over the tracks in to both of these

4. alternative ballasting methods. (I fancy another go with cascamite powder)

5. Static grass and other ground cover techniques

 

I'll add something to my Hemerdon thread as I get going with this.

Reading the suggestions of other people specific to open frame scenery, wouldn't it be easier to stick pieces of poystyrene between sections of the open frame - thus leaving the precise location and angle of the trees until you can see what the scenery looks like?