ozzyo Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 Hello All, not much work done yesterday just the rear sand pipes fitted and the bracket cut out for the speedo. Sand pipes in place from below, Sand pipes from the side, I always fit them over long, The sand pipes cut to length, While I had the rear wheels in place I found that the flange was catching on the live steam injector feed water pipe so it going to be out with the burrs and remove some of the pipe, its not to bad on this side as the feed water pipe has the extra piece going onto the speedo bracket. OzzyO. PS. just spotted this new emoticon . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 19, 2011 Author Share Posted May 19, 2011 Hello All, now to start on the upper works (the body). The basic footplate with the valances folded down and the splashes folded up, on the Castles on the fireman's side you have two options wide or narrow splashes, this one is going to be a wide splashered version. This is how I fold up the front part of the drop in the footplate and after soldering it all up The rear end of the footplate before soldering and after soldering The basic cab with the front soldered in place Now in place on the footplate, the splasher sides have now been soldered in place The rear footplate overlay in place This is now where the fun can really start with the Castles. Is it going to be a joggled frame or a straight frame? The joggled frames ran up to 4092 then the straight frames onwards, or so you would think! Some of the early Castles had the front of the frames replaced with the latter straight frames! The overlay for the later frames The front footplate for a joggled frame, notice the rivet detail on the buffer beam The front of a straight frame Castle If I have got you confused with straight frames and joggled frames, this is a straight frame front end and this is a joggle frame front end More to follow soon. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 Hello All, while I was mentioning joggled frames (JF) and straight frames (SF) I thought that it may be a good idea to let you what they look like from above. JF up to 4092 Vauxhall 7, the seven corresponds with the number of bolt heads across the top Same as above with the saddle in place SF Vauxhall 9 SF this is the first type of casing with the curved top corner, this was later modified to a square corner, later on if the loco had new inside cylinder fitted there was a extra cover plate fitted in the middle JF, on Stars and Star rebuilds Same as above with the saddle in place SF Castle with the new inside cylinders fitted, note the raised center plate Just to add to the fun some of the JF Castles and Star rebuilds ended up with SF and the box type of inside cylinder covers. Some of the SF Castles that Had the Vauxhall 9 covers also ended up with the box type of cover as well. So as with most modeling jobs work from a photo of your chosen prototype and in the correct time period. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 20, 2011 Author Share Posted May 20, 2011 Hello All, back to the cab, in the kit you have two types of cab front the early type with the portholes above the boiler or the later type with out them. The small dropped footplate under the cab. This has a small rivet that goes to the top front edge (on the outside if you get me). You will have to make sure that you get them parallel along there length. The drag beam overlay is in place along with the buffer plates. The same as above from below. The cab side in place, note the small gap at the rear. You have two types of cab side in the kit, this type with beading at the front, this type of side overhangs the front by about 1" and other type is flush with the front with no beading at the front end. Gap filled in I think I use some 2X2mm L angle. The small step and beading and handrails in place. This is a tip I picked up from Malcolm Mitchell for holding the splasher tops level across the footplate. Its just a length of 1mm brass wire soldered to the inside of the splashes level with the tops. First two tops in place. I now remove the wire and check the fit of the boiler. In these photos I used to do all six in one go. BAD. All six now in place. Off to start getting ready for The Wall gig at Manchester. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 Hi OzzyO, Hope you enjoy the wall just down t'road from me! Fantastic work you're doing here, very, very inspiring indeed. One day I should like to emulate your work, as of yet I've still to move on from Parkside kits etc, he, he! Cheers, John E. PS A search on ebay will reveal reasonably cheap titanium coated drill (or mill) bits! I sometimes use these when milling graphite, which is hard wearing on bits, don't know if that helps! Otherwise you can always PM me if you wanted to know about a good supplier of diamond coated bits (expensive!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Intresting stuff Ozzyo - I didn't realise the Castle had so many detail differences. I'll be interested to see how you tackle the boiler. I assume it is a glass re-enforced resin one like my 4F, which saw off a few drill bits..... Cheers Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Intresting stuff Ozzyo - I didn't realise the Castle had so many detail differences. I'll be interested to see how you tackle the boiler. I assume it is a glass re-enforced resin one like my 4F, which saw off a few drill bits..... Cheers Tony Hello Tony / All, that's just the start of it, you then have the inside valve chest covers to take into account as well. The boiler is indeed a glass reinforced resin one, this then has it's own differences but more on that later. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Hello All, so on to the front end, I know of two types of inside valve covers. The first had a small lozenge shaped plate with a small protuberance, the second one has larger covers that extend down to the footplate. There maybe a third type but I have not got any clear photos of it. This is the Vauxhall 7 front end, with the 'third' type and most of the footplate fittings in place, the white metal casting has been extended by about 1.5mm with plasticard and a new front cover made from nickel silver The narrow box front end with the second type of valve cover in place The reversing lever, small frames between the front and center splashes, sand box fillers and sanding levers all in place. The reversing gearbox and firebox expansion joints in place The fire iron tunnel in place Most of the pipe work in place on the footplate the brackets on the center splasher are for mounting the nameplates to Next time the cab. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Hello All, not the cab I said in my last post, but to try to keep all this together I'm going to post these here. The SF Castle with the full width box front end, this front end has a curved top front edge The SF Castle with the full width box front end with the square top front edge, this loco has had new inside cylinders fitted, you can tell that by the small raised plate on the top The infill piece fitted behind the fire iron tunnel, A lot of people will miss this out See yous soon OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Hello All, you must be getting fed-up with me today. Any way on to the inside of the cab. The first job is to get the floor ready, the floor is bolted down with ether a 10 or 12BA bolt The drivers side with most of the fittings in place. For fitting the reverser box in the corner, I pack it off the floor with a small piece of paper, the cab side strengthening ribs are lifted above the floor so that the floor can be slid out The fireman's side The drivers side with some more of the fittings in place The cab roof in place, you can also see the slacking pipe hanging out of the fireman's rear window The drivers side. The rain strip around the cab roof when it is soldered in place will need about 1mm filling from its top edge, all you want is about .75-.5mm left. Its a lot of work to get right but it is worth it. A few people when building Stars, Castles & Kings get the roof shape wrong. The top part is a very slight curve that is the same as the two sides, these are in turn connected by two sharper curves. If you get these in the wrong place this can look even worse. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy M Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 OzzyO, Inspiring stuff and lovely work. What with your posts and that tasty new Lionheart 74xx hitting the streets, I can feel the 7mm tractor beam pulling me in! I must go and lay down in a darkened room until the urges have subsided! Regards, Andy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 The old Airfix/Hornby Castle got the roof far too pronounced in that 3 part arch and the top bit was a bit flat too making it look really odd. I do like the Mitchell cab having a full etch layer behind the detail overlay, the Finney 28xx only has the thin detail part so I have 0.15mm thick cab sides! Apart from the boiler/firebox the etches are identical to the 4mm ones so this thread is great for me in the future.. Of possible interest: 96053A Frame plates for renewed front end 'Castle' Class - Drawn Swindon 9 Dec 1953 was in box 40 of the Swindon Drawings at the NRM. So the earliest renewals were after this I assume! They are also slightly different to the straight frame version you've shown but only really in the detail of the cutouts. I think they have been called dished frames as well due to the bogie clearance cutout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 21, 2011 Author Share Posted May 21, 2011 Of possible interest: 96053A Frame plates for renewed front end 'Castle' Class - Drawn Swindon 9 Dec 1953 was in box 40 of the Swindon Drawings at the NRM. So the earliest renewals were after this I assume! They are also slightly different to the straight frame version you've shown but only really in the detail of the cutouts. I think they have been called dished frames as well due to the bogie clearance cutout. Hello Craig, they have been called dished frames as well, but as the joggled frames have dishes on the model I didn't want to confuse the issue. Is there much difference in the modified front frames. I know on the Kings that got new front frames. The dishing was increased in length over the front bogie wheels. You might like these. For getting the weight over the drivers I made a dam of plasticard for the boiler at the firebox end. Then filled the boiler (but not the smokebox) with No.7 lead shot, fixed in place with polyurethane? resin. If your going to use lead shot (liquid lead) don't use P.V.A. wood glue as there have been problems with the boilers splitting with this mix. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, What do you mean " get fed up with you " never. This thread you are doing is very informative I never realised there was that much variation in the class. Well I'm finally finding the time to finish off the 42xx , after having to scratch build the smokebox saddle and a pair of steam pipes . Still it should be in primer soon, so I'll post them up on here once it's done. Then I'm having a go at a couple of coaches (makes a change), before starting on a Finney 28xx. Keep up the good work mate, ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 Hello All, 3 link, how about doing a photo build of your 28xx? Craig how about doing a photo build of your 4mm Castle? I'm going back a bit now to the speedo, The mounting plate in place, the rod that's through the axle box's is to locate the center of the speedo bracket central to the axle center This how it's used, I mount the speedo bracket with the axle box hard to the stops Cab roof in place along with the rain strip. On the L/H side this how it first looks, on the R/H side I've made a start getting it down to the size I want, (note this time I am saying our L/H not the loco L/H side) L/H side as first fitted in a bit more close up R/H side just about there The finished job. You could use wire for this but I'm not sure that you would gain that much. After all it only takes about an hour to fit the cab roof and the rain strip and about half an hour to file it all down! These photos are of the loco that I'm working on now, so most of the photos from now on will be of this loco. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 23, 2011 Author Share Posted May 23, 2011 Hello All, I've just been rereading some of my posts and I realised that I got my Castles and Kings mixed up. This was what I was thinking about when I mentioned the valve chest cover with the lozenge shaped plates, this in fact off a King. But if anyone knows if there is a casting for it in 7mm would you please let me know. This is a blow up of a photo I have in my collection showing what I mean. TFAH OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Ah 5099 is back. Look forward to seeing her take shape and even more to taking delivery. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Hello All, 3 link, how about doing a photo build of your 28xx? Craig how about doing a photo build of your 4mm Castle? OzzyO. Hi Ozzyo, Yes I will have a go at a photo build, I think maybe I will get a head start before I start the thread as there will be times what with work commitments that I will not be able to keep up a constant diary of the build to keep you lot interested . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 30, 2011 Author Share Posted May 30, 2011 Hello All, as on member said the devil is in the detail. Well if you thought the front end was bad, you want to try the Mec. Lub gear on a Castle, at the last count I've come up with about 8 and still counting. After a lot of help from a mate I've got the drawings for this loco (thanks Mal). So on to the build. Just by using photos I came up with these positions for the mec. lub box After getting the drawings it turned out that neither one was quit right, but the first one was closer, so out with the drill and slitting disk and the footplate started to look like a Swiss cheese The lub. box soldered in place along with the bases for the steam pipes and the lubricator for the vacuum pump This was a case of measure once cut twice, the bridge piece for the pipes in place, along with an extension piece for the smokebox saddle The three way separator and the first of the pipes in place Most of the front pipes in place A start is made on the rear pipes The steam heat pipe for the Mec. lub. box in place along with the lub. pipe for the regulator header. The pipes for across the frames are also in place Up to now there about twenty bits of wire in place, with a lot more to go! I've only used two sizes of wire up to now, 0.37mm. and 0.46mm. Some of the next pipe will use 0.56mm wire. I'm a bit stuck at the moment as I need two atomisers to complete this lot of pipe work, roll on Sat. In the photos you will see a red box this is an access hatch for the inside valve gear rockers that the pipes should not cross, it's just a reminder to me. If any one's going to Halifax show on Sat. I'll be there from about 10;15 depending on the trains. I'll probably have a light purple shirt on and be in the real ale bar from about 11 :drinks: . OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Now that's coming on a treat mate. Have a good day sat. I can already see her sat on Ranelagh bridge having brought the Red dragon up from Cardiff, ready for the return capitols united back home Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Impressive work to say the least, keep it coming! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Hello All, just some before and after a quick grit blast, I'm going to try and put them side by side this time! I was looking at some photos for the feed water pipe, on this loco it goes behind the reach rod support, on most Castles it runs in front of it. Now maybe its just this loco or this and later batches. I'm not sure yet. OzzyO. PS, well the side by side didn't work . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Lovely work there mate. I'm going to have the mec lubricator painted green on this loco, so it stands out a bit more. All prototypical I've got colour pics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Lovely work there mate. I'm going to have the mec lubricator painted green on this loco, so it stands out a bit more. All prototypical I've got colour pics. You've been in photo bucket or you've been on the Brains again. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BR(W) Posted June 2, 2011 Share Posted June 2, 2011 "I was looking at some photos for the feed water pipe, on this loco it goes behind the reach rod support, on most Castles it runs in front of it. Now maybe its just this loco or this and later batches. I'm not sure yet." Hello, OzzyO. I'm following these marvellous builds with ever increasing interest; 7mm is great, isn't it (I've a feeling that you may prefer even bigger stuff, though). I may be able to help with the boiler feed pipes: I believe that no 4073 had the boiler feed pipes outside the reverser steady post, they always wriggled behind it, and included two flanged joints on their way from running plate to boiler. I think that the only G.W. locos on which the pipe didn't execute this sinuous manoeuvre were the 6000s. Here, the pipe ran straight to the centre splasher and then between the steady post and nameplate assembly before jumping over the reverser rod to meet that big boiler. Hope this is of use. Best wishes and congratulations on some fine work. BR(W). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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