ozzyo Posted June 3, 2011 Author Share Posted June 3, 2011 Hello, OzzyO. I'm following these marvellous builds with ever increasing interest; 7mm is great, isn't it (I've a feeling that you may prefer even bigger stuff, though). I may be able to help with the boiler feed pipes: I believe that no 4073 had the boiler feed pipes outside the reverser steady post, they always wriggled behind it, and included two flanged joints on their way from running plate to boiler. I think that the only G.W. locos on which the pipe didn't execute this sinuous manoeuvre were the 6000s. Here, the pipe ran straight to the centre splasher and then between the steady post and nameplate assembly before jumping over the reverser rod to meet that big boiler. Hope this is of use. Best wishes and congratulations on some fine work. BR(W). Hello BR(W), All, thanks for the info. it's one of them bit of info. that I have misted in the pasts, all I can put it down to is that most loco shots that are published ( the books on Ex G.W.R. types seem to be more prone to this) seem to be of the front 3/4 type! Now another question. My mate Steve has said that the mec. lub box was painted in the body colour, I've seen this on preserved loco but always just thought that it was a fad of preserved loco owners. Any info gratefully recived. TIA OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 The hey day of Swindon and it's locomotives front cover castle 5049 ex works green mec lubricator. This is the pic Fred will use to weather it . GWR 4.6.0s in colour by Derek Penney page 23 5043 and 7026 Swindon ex works both with green mec lubs. Steam colour portfolio great western lines vol 2 Keith r pirt page 50 same locos as above but a different angle. I haven't been on the brains mate. That's tomorrow. I doubt the mec lubricators stayed green for long but this loco is going to be my ex works loco and probably the only one, you know me mate I prefer my engines dirty!!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 3, 2011 Share Posted June 3, 2011 Steam colour portfolio again page 74 7919 runter hall may 63 green mec lubricator. I guess swindon liked green paint. But we all knew that!!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 11, 2011 Share Posted June 11, 2011 Hi OzzyO, I've just read your thread from start to finish and I'm lost for words! The standard of your workmanship is astounding, I'm totally 'gob smacked'. As you already know I'm not really into these steam engine thingies but I shall keep watching your thread as its just so inspiring. Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 13, 2011 Author Share Posted June 13, 2011 Hi OzzyO, I've just read your thread from start to finish and I'm lost for words! The standard of your workmanship is astounding, I'm totally 'gob smacked'. As you already know I'm not really into these steam engine thingies but I shall keep watching your thread as its just so inspiring. Cheers Lee How do Lee, you must have been bored. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Hello All, I've been waiting for some parts to turn up for the lub. pipework, so I started some work on the boiler. The superheater cover as supplied That was the wrong type for this loco, so it had to go Doing that you lose some rivets so I replaced them with some from Scale Hardware Some more of the fittings in place OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Blue resin....mmmm..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HealeyMills Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Ozzyo, Now that's what I call rivet counting . Fantastic work... never boring, only inspiring! Cheers Lee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 Hello All, as you can see the title has change, I'm waiting on some castings for the Castle. I would also like to say thanks to all who have replied to this thread and those who have just been watching. So on to the 44xx. The nickel silver etches Th brass etches The castings, this includes the S.D.K. The storage box came from Home Bargains for about £1.50, you can get them in three sizes, this ones the large The frames cut from the etch, the line at the bottom right is the cut line for the short bunkers and the dotted line is the axle centre line. Edit. 05/08/11. if you cut to this line the frames may end up approx. 2mm short. The two frames clamped together, the spring clamps were from my local market about £1.75 for six The brake pivots and pick-up holes drilled, I have drilled all five p-u holes as I have not decided which ones to use Some ones nicked the springs The front two horns cut out, I will leave the rear one in place for now to act as a datum The frames separated and the spacers lade out in there approx. positions The spacer with the motor mount on it. I've drilled two holes for an idea that I've got for holding the motor, but more on that later. From below and above OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Always good to see another loco coming together. Pity it's not my castle but what can you do but wait. The shed master at canton is a bit desperate to get his favourite castle back though!!! What time period is this loco being ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 What time period is this loco being ? How do Steve, shes going to be 4405 as running in 1927. That's a bit early for you mate. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigwelsh Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I see you've gone for the P4 spacers . Do any 7mm modellers ever use the narrower ones? Looking forward to more on the Castle when you get the bits but this build will be interesting too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 I see you've gone for the P4 spacers . Do any 7mm modellers ever use the narrower ones? Hello All / Craig, this kit was designed by M.M. some year back for 4mm, so had the P4 spacers (blown up to 7mm =24mm) when I scratch build I would normally go for 1" (25.4mm) between the frames. When you get one of the M.F. kits that have been designed for 7mm I think that you get three choices of frame spacers 7mm narrow, 7mm fine scale and s7. I don't know what would happen if he took then down to 4mm? I like to use the widest frames that I can it puts the frames where they should be just behind the wheels, not 6" inside of them. These are just my thoughts on frames. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 How do Steve, shes going to be 4405 as running in 1927. That's a bit early for you mate. OzzyO. Nice garter crest and full lining then nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 How do Steve, I'll drop you some photos down latter. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Huxley Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Steve, afraid the shed master at Canton will have to wait a little longer because Moorswater needs 4405 in operation so that they can run normal services on the Looe branch again . All joking aside though, it's great to see my loco in the workshop and to be able to watch Ozzy work his majic on it. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve fay Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Mike you won't be dissapointed. I've got a couple of locos from them there workshops and they are all superb. So much so once the castle is finished I'm having a county. I'm sure Ozzy is a secret swindonian, if you shave his beard he's got GWR branded on his chin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 Mike You won't be dissapointed I've got a few locos out of them work shops and they are all superb. So much so that after the castles finished I having a county. I'm sure Ozzy is a secret swindonian!!!!!!! If he shaved off his beard he's got GWR branded on his chin !!! Hello Steve, who's this man with a beard?????????? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale7JB Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 When you get one of the M.F. kits that have been designed for 7mm I think that you get three choices of frame spacers 7mm narrow, 7mm fine scale and s7. OzzyO. And I think that the S7 ones are still narrower than they should be... I'm using 29.35mm frame spacers for a N.E. G5 at the moment.. It would be interesting to know what width they do come out at in the kits.. JB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hello All, some more photos of the 44xx build, The first three frame spacers soldered in position on one of the frames The second frame tack soldered in place, the spacer SB is not soldered in place as I want to check its position with the cylinders later The same as before but from above The horn blocks all set up ready for fitting Setting the jig up for the horn blocks Setting the height of the front horns, from the side and above All six now in place and setting the middle horn blocks so the stop is about 25 thou above the front and rear ones Blackening one of the axles using Birchwood Casey Two wheels showing the effects of the blackening Three of the wheels with the blackening completed. I have had problems at times to get the blackening to take on the brass center of Slater's wheels, but I picked up a tip at Halifax about this. Burnish the brass center with a brass wire wheel in the Dremel (or use a small glass fiber scratch brush). Some people will leave them but I think it just looks bad. getting ready to drill the frame over-lays for the plunger pick-ups The holes for the pick-ups drilled The over-lays in place along with the brake pivots OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, When you blacken the wheels, do you not blacken the treads as well ? I do and then give the treads a quick polish and it seems to give them that prototypical sheen, then I follow with painting a slim film of Carr's Electrofix on the treads which I find helps keep some of the dirt at bay. Are those horn blocks JLTRT's ? and if so being such a large casting how do you solder them in place? soldering iron or RSU ? ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, When you blacken the wheels, do you not blacken the treads as well ? I do and then give the treads a quick polish and it seems to give them that prototypical sheen, then I follow with painting a slim film of Carr's Electrofix on the treads which I find helps keep some of the dirt at bay. Are those horn blocks JLTRT's ? and if so being such a large casting how do you solder them in place? soldering iron or RSU ? ATB, Martyn. Hello Martyn, I don't blacken the treads. As all I do is paint the wheels after the blackening. The blackening is only to stop a bright steel wheel showing up if the paint chips. Carr's electrofix, it will just wear off after time so I just don't use it. The horn blocks are JLTRTs all you have to do is solder the keeper in place with 188 deg. solder then tin the horns and frames with 145 and use your iron to fix in place. Or you can use your RSU, all you need is the solder in the right place. The spring that is used with the jig will push the horns to the frames when the heat is applied. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hi Ozzyo, Me again thanks for your prompt reply, yes I thought they were jltrt's horn blocks. I had a right nightmare with those similar blocks a while back while building one of Pete's 57xx's. As your photo shows the horn blocks are nice and "thick and chunky", so chunky that there was not enough gap to fit the gearbox on the drive axle between the frames . In the end I had to replace the blocks for Finney one's and use a Markit's slimline gearbox, bl**dy aggro but it finally has turned out to be one of my smoothest running loco's . ATB, Martyn. P.S. Here's a couple of pics of my latest build a 42xx, as you can see gave it one coat of primer only to notice that I had forgot to put the whistle's on . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dymstocklr Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 Ozzyo I've just started on a Mitchell 44xx so I'll be watching your progress with a lot of interest! Mine is one of the original MM kits (had it on the shelf for years) + the JLTRT detailing kit. I've just gone for the Hobby Holidays hornblocks - cost a small fortune but excellent quality including ballraces. Sadly I don't expect (make that I know!) mine won't be in the same league as yours but so far at least it's been fun to build. Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 Hello Martyn & Bill, just got back in from the MRC and pub. So if some of this is a bit disjointed sorry. The JLTRT horn-blocks can work with the inside faces removed. If you get what I mean? Do you have have any photos of the HH horn-blocks? I don't fit the safety valve bonnet ( if in polished brass) until after the loco is painted, the whistles are masked until the top coat of paint is put on. OzzYO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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