gordon s Posted February 2, 2019 Author Share Posted February 2, 2019 (edited) Spent a lot of time today, just checking the track work and ensuring everything was OK. Yesterday, this loco was the worst of all I had. It barely ran and when it did it bumped through pointwork as though the track was out of gauge or the B2B's incorrect. Probably one of my favourite loco's. This was built for me way before the Hornby Clan was available by Graham Varley of Ely MRC. He had built several loco's for me before and the build quality was always very high and matched by the running quality which was first class. It pained me to see it struggle yesterday and had it been an eBay purchase, I may well have put it down. Clan's were always a 'lottery win' for a spotter from Platform 10 and the only time I would ever see one was in my school holidays to Glasgow and it's surrounds, so they have always been a very special loco for me. With just 10 built, they were as rare as hens teeth unless you were north of Crewe, so it was high on my list of loco's for ET. The wheels were dirty primarily from sitting in a box for years and there was actually the smallest sign of rust on the steel axles, so no wonder it ran badly. Managed to clean the wheels and a drop of oil on every moving part soon freed it up. As I said, it is a long wheelbase chassis and there is little or no play in the drivers, so not really designed for first radius curves. Spent ages gauging the critical dimensions on all my 00-SF pointwork and they were fine. It all seemed to come down to outside check rail gap, so widening the gauge out to 16.4mm with a 1.2mm check rail gap solved everything and it's great to see it running again with 20 plus wagons. Otherwise all is well. Glad to see RMweb back online and just trying to get my head round the various changes. No doubt in a day or two the old forum will be forgotten and the various uploads will be complete. Edited February 2, 2019 by gordon s 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted February 2, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 2, 2019 Nice to see you making progress with running trains Gordon. Hope your enjoying it Rich 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 3, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2019 Gordon, Now you have a good selection of locos and stock proven to run on the track built so far, you will be able to test any new additions as you go. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gordon s Posted February 4, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 4, 2019 (edited) No, rest easy, it's not going to the tip.... This is the last train to run for some weeks. Jeez, I'm an untidy b*gger..... Still a surprise to me just how well RTR stuff has improved since I was a kid. The last few years have seen huge improvements in running quality, particularly on steam loco's where pick ups on all tender wheels and in some case bogie wheels, makes the old stop/start and hand of God, a thing of the past. Here's an old Bachmann Crab without those luxuries and yet it started out of the box really well and will happily pull 25+ wagons without hesitation or slipping. Of course it still needs some grime and a crew, not to mention a fall plate, but we'll get there. ET station area looks like a bomb's hit it with tools and general junk. That's not a camping coach either. Just an experiment on platform height to see where the recommended height would sit against the cork underlay etc. Seems 18mm is about right, so that was worth playing around with. Really glad I stayed away from multi layers and gradients, which I'm sure would have changed my perception. Apologies for all the pristine stock straight from the box. They will all become grimy and weathered as time goes on, but that's some way away yet. Happy that I fitted Kadee couplings to these some years ago. They are less intrusive than tension locks and with NEM pockets on most stock, it's a doddle to pop out the old and fit a Kadee 18 coupling in seconds. Well, I've had my fun with trains running all weekend, but now I have to go backwards to go forwards. All the stock has been packed away or moved to safety, so I can now get on with track painting, ballasting etc. One of those jobs that takes forever, but has to be done. I've generally built platforms before from strips of 6mm mdf, but came across a post last night where they had used Peco edging. I've ordered a couple of packs to play around with. It really depends on how flexible it is and how the edge stones cope with bending. ET station is on an 80' radius curve, so it hasn't got to bend far and I'm hoping it will look OK. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so worthwhile experimenting for a bit. Once they're in place, I'll revisit the station building and see what's to be done with the footbridge. Other than that, the snow is thawing and still no golf, but hey, it's warm indoors and there's much to do. I may be gone some time... Edited February 4, 2019 by gordon s 27 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardswain Posted February 6, 2019 Share Posted February 6, 2019 Inspiring!! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gordon s Posted February 9, 2019 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 9, 2019 (edited) Morning all, the sun is shining and Spring is on its way. Spent the week painting track and making a start on building the platforms for ET station. These have to be built first and then I'll be be able to adjust the edge gaps before ballasting. It's also much easier ballasting from an empty board, rather than having to reach down between several platforms. I have built platforms before, but always felt they could be improved on, so set about a search on RMweb to pick up other ideas. I stumbled across this one, so many thanks to CoBo for sharing his ideas. https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92022-help-with-building-a-station-platform/&do=findComment&comment=1672003 To make life relatively easy, I've bolted two sections together and then managed to lift and swing this rather large chunk of wood across the room to work in comfort, rather than having to reach under the eaves. All the track was primed first and then airbrushed with my usual brown emulsion. Having the sleepers and rail painted the same colour is one of those compromises I live with as there's just too much track to paint them separately and I'm hoping people will look at the overall picture rather than close up detail. The starting point for me was to cut numerous 15mm strips of 6mm mdf and then do some tests to produce a very simple construction gauge to space the edge away from the rail and prevent any stock overhang fouling the platform edge. I say gauge, it was just a mdf offcut with two rail slots... The first platform is where the main station building will sit and straight away I was faced with two choices. One was to have the platforms/approach road all on the same level or to have the platforms and station building at one level and the approach road 15mm lower. I've still not decided, so went with the second option for now. I can always fill in the small area each side, but in reality can't gauge what it will look like without the station building in situ. CoBO's method utilised Peco platform edging strip, so I ordered a couple of packs from Track Shack to play around with. Amazed that I ordered them on Sunday night and they arrived on Wednesday via Royal Mail from the Isle of Man. They tell me the weather was bad there on Monday, or they would have been with me Tuesday. It's not the first time I have bought from them and I really have been impressed with their friendliness and very good service. Basically you cut off all the rear mounts from the edging and then attach it to the front of the mdf strip. This gives a 3mm recess into which the platform surface can be constructed with 2mm mdf sheet and 1mm cork on top. The finished article then has the edging stones in place with a good flush surface. A few strips of Slaters card in brick or stone and it should look acceptable. First impressions were one of surprise on the overall size of ET station. The platforms are designed to take seven or eight Mk 1's plus a loco, with the two bay platforms large enough for a two/three coach DMU. I had to order some more 2mm mdf sheet and I suspect that won't arrive until mid week, so it will be back to golf on Monday and Wednesday. Picked up £27 on Thursday from our usual crowd, so that will help towards more materials... Progress continues and at last things are starting to take shape. I'm toying with the idea of a bridge at one end or even both ends of the station as I have some ideas re the back wall. ET has always had fairly solid retaining walls at some point or other and whilst I'm enjoying the openness of the far side of the layout, this side may be a little/lot more urban in appearance. Unfortunately I'm not that good at visualising things, so prefer to try things out and then see how they look. Mind numbing ballasting to do next. Whoopee...... Edited February 9, 2019 by gordon s 33 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_H Posted February 9, 2019 Share Posted February 9, 2019 On 27/01/2019 at 22:13, Andrew P said: Who's Roger? Who's Roger? do you mean Jessica's husband. Here's a drawing of Jessica; She's OK, likes to play "patty-cake", but she's a bit two dimensional! There is a sketch of Jessica by Karl "souracid" Liversidge that would cause my mate Fred to utter the phrase "yabba a dabba a doo" , I'm not posting it here but here's the link! https://www.artstation.com/artwork/KDkvx Back to Eastwood Town, I like the video and it's good to see the progress that your making Gordon, where's the mucky duck that you modified and weathered , must be almost nine years ago, it would be nice to see it running. Ian 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 I'd forgotten about Jessica, so thanks for sharing that... I wonder if Mrs S would mind if I have the Karl Liversidge pic on the wall.... I did find the mucky duck last week, but for some reason I'd disconnected the wiring to the tender pick ups. It was the same with the 9F, so they went back in the box until I found some time to heat up the soldering iron and then fully test them both. It was interesting to see the very light dry brush oil I used on the valve gear had completely dried out and gone, so not a great success... Nine years ago was spot on and for those new to the thread, this is what we're talking about.. 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted February 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2019 Keep the approach road at platform height, this is what most stations are like. The platforms are at outside ground level not built up above it like most model railways. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted February 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2019 9 hours ago, gordon s said: It was interesting to see the very light dry brush oil I used on the valve gear had completely dried out and gone, so not a great success... I remember the oil technique, did it retain the colour despite drying? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted February 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 9, 2019 Splendid work Gordon, the progress is magnificent, after all the trials and tribulations of the past. I am assuming that you have tested all of the platforms before you start ballasting. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 Thanks SS, thats on the agenda for tomorrow. Although I used a gauge to set the distance, the 'frames' are quite flexible until you add the 2mm mdf top. To deal with any movement, I will screw small locator blocks onto the baseboard to hold the frame into position and then glue the top on. Once that is set, you can lift the finished platform up and it will hold its shape. Trim the excess mdf top away and then use PVA to glue down the 1mm cork. The next stage is to trim the cork to make a flush edge. Once that is complete you can add the Peco sides and finally stick on the Slaters brick or stone card and paint. I suspect I will airbrush the platform surface in various shades of grey/black to represent well weathered tarmac. All sounds so easy on paper, so fingers crossed it will go well. I had hoped I would be able to fun run some of my US stock, but it meant widening out the overhang gap, which then looked too wide against a UK coach. I will still run them from time to time, but they will have to be limited to guest appearances on the outer goods relief road as that is the only one that doesn't come up against a platform. I hope Mike (CoBo) doesn't mind me repeating his pics here, as I was impressed with the finished article. I may add another row of slabs inside the edging stones, but am concerned that may complicate the build and detract from the accurate fit of the cork sheet. I guess its a case of try it on a dummy piece first and see if it its worth doing. Something akin to this.... https://goo.gl/images/kHGoqn Golfing a few days next week and the weather forecast seems reasonable, so I'll have further updates as and when.... 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 9, 2019 Author Share Posted February 9, 2019 1 hour ago, PMP said: I remember the oil technique, did it retain the colour despite drying? I'll pull it out again tomorrow PMP and take some more pics to compare against the one taken nine years ago. Great to touch base with you again as I still recall you teaching me how to use an airbrush all those years ago... As you're here, can I ask your opinion (or anyone else) on weathering and in particular, sealing with Johnsons Klear. Way back in 2007, guys were talking about Klear, so I bought some of the original stuff and it's still in the back of my cupboard and hasn't seen the light of day since. I was considering using it via an airbrush to seal the powdered weathering, but had concerns on two fronts. From what I have read, it dries to a gentle sheen, increasing to a gloss depending on the depth of coverage. Can you limit the coverage to almost a matt finish, or do you have to apply a matt varnish? If that's the case, do you need Klear at all? The second question was the effect of Klear on weathering powders? Will adding any liquid onto weathering powders just cause them to run and lose the effect, or can a gentle application dry without any change to the powder finish? Always grateful for any guidance that can be offered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted February 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2019 Great progress big G. Personally I wouldn't use Klear to seal weathering powders. It's sold as a high gloss acrylic but in practice gives something between gloss and satin on models. Keep it for treating your glazing where it really changes the optical characteristics making things look much more like glass. You will need a Matt varnish which as we know is the spawn of the devil and must be used very carefully. Cheers Dave 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) Thanks Dave and lovely to hear from you. How's the golf? Are Phil and Geoff still around? Maybe we can go for another 18 holes once the sun is out.... Perhaps I'll just sell the Klear on eBay for £200 per bottle..... Edited February 10, 2019 by gordon s Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted February 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) 24 minutes ago, gordon s said: Thanks Dave and lovely to hear from you. How's the golf? Are Phil and Geoff still around? Maybe we can go for another 18 holes once the sun is out.... Perhaps I'll just sell the Klear on eBay for £200 per bottle..... Haven't spoken to Phil for some while, he's into military dioramas at the moment. Bumped into Geoff at Southampton show a couple of weeks ago. Certainly up for a thrash around the course. Seem to be stuck on handicap of 17 myself. Not over enthusiastic in all this wet and cold. I think you missed the peak of the market for Klear. They've recrntly released a new formulation which some say is even better than the old one though you can't buy it in the UK! Now stop surfing the net and get on with those platforms. Cheers Dave Edited February 10, 2019 by eldavo 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 As promised PMP, here's a shot of the valve gear when it was originally weathered back in 2010. The dry brushed oil effect gave the valve gear a sheen representative of a working loco that was regularly lubricated, yet left unclean. Nine years of storage in a box and the colour is still there, but the sheen has gone as the surface oil has dried out. Of course it wouldn't take a few minutes to brush it over again and restore the original look. 5 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PMP Posted February 10, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2019 Blimey!, The airbrush lesson at the members day was a long time ago, I can recall thinking this geezers got talent as you picked it up so quickly! I think the oil might still be captured in the paint texture, it might be worth trying a damp Q-tip to see if it refreshes without adding any more. Re the ‘Klear’ I’ve only used it as either a gloss varnish for a top coat, an undercoat for transfers, or as an adhesive for Shawplan’s laserglaze. At the members day I was using, and still do, Vallejo Matt varnish from an aerosol. It does mute underlying powders, so I tend not to use it very much. I’ve reduced the use of powders significantly too, and am using more of the military modelling techniques and pigments/washes. There’s a whole new hobby almost in using them, and some brilliant YouTube instructional videos, quite a change from that members day! Likewise nice to touch base again brgds paul 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted February 12, 2019 Share Posted February 12, 2019 Hello, This link though quite old blows the myths and mysteries about Klear into perspective quite well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6dXkL6CwGY I hope it makes things a bit clearer. trustytrev.:) 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BoD Posted February 13, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 13, 2019 I bet not much modelling was done tonight. What a great second half for your lot. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 (edited) I’m so predictable.... Best I’ve seen Spurs play in ages and yet Jadon Sancho was a real handful in the first half. Thankfully they shut him down in the second half. I’ve spent hours ballasting, so welcomed the break away. As far as ET is concerned, I now have all the materials to get the platforms done, so hope to post another update over the weekend. Golfing tomorrow in the Spring like weather and then the big one on Monday. We’re away to West Berks, with whom we share the lead in our Winter League. Four games to go in our qualifying group, so an away win should see us into the knockout stages for the first time. Bring it on! Edited February 13, 2019 by gordon s 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 On 09/02/2019 at 22:22, gordon s said: CoBO's method utilised Peco platform edging strip ... Basically you cut off all the rear mounts from the edging and then attach it to the front of the mdf strip. This gives a 3mm recess into which the platform surface can be constructed with 2mm mdf sheet and 1mm cork on top. The finished article then has the edging stones in place with a good flush surface. A few strips of Slaters card in brick or stone and it should look acceptable. Hey Gordon: Sorry to interrupt: this beginner is a bit confused about the Peco platform edging. I see LK-60/1/2, which is OO edging in brick/stone/concrete, but you're using Slater's, so either there's another type of edging I haven't found, or you're removing or ignoring the Peco textures. cheers Dean PS: many thanks for the tip many pages ok to print track plans on 160gsm paper! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Sorry about the confusion. The edging I'm using is the brick version which is supplied like this with a set of self adhesive brick paper. This is the rear face. The first thing to do is cut and off all the projections on the back, so it looks like this. ...and then I cut Slaters brick Plasticard into 15mm strips which will be glued on the front face to replace the self adhesive brick paper. The edging strip is stuck on the 15mm mdf strips and then a top surface made up of 2mm mdf and 1mm cork sheet is added and this will sit flush with the edging stones of the Peco strip. Hope that all makes sense.... 3 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PhilH Posted February 14, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2019 On 10/02/2019 at 10:15, eldavo said: Haven't spoken to Phil for some while.... Dave Still waiting for the trainspotting/ Wetherspoon's date call.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 Hi Phil, glad to hear you're OK. I did wonder if you had moved abroad as I'm sure you mentioned that years ago. More than happy to do Wetherspoons, but unless there's some smoky things about, I'll stay with the beer option...... Give me a little time and we could have a running session here. Never thought I'd be able to say that..... I'll even get my good lady to rustle up a curry.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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