N gauge B&B Couplings Construction

[Last Tracks]

Hello everyone,

 

Being a relative novice to modelling in N gauge I couldn’t believe how difficult it is to assemble B&B couplings from the N Gauge Society. The first one took me the best part of 2 hours and the second one went in the bin. This got me thinking I attended the East Midlands Model Exhibition where there were several N gauge layouts and what was clearly noticeable that rapido ruled supreme in fact I cannot remember seeing any other couplings being used.

 

On the various forums there are threads after thread stating how poor rapidos are, but the exhibition layouts I’ve seen (even most in the glossy magazines) use rapidos why is this? Are the contributors to the forums a specialist clique and not representative of the hobby as a whole?

 

I really want to model a goods yard with lots of shunting and auto coupling using electromagnets. I went for the B&B couplings because there is no loop to be formed and they offer delayed uncoupling when in operation. So can anyone help? Has anyone got any experience of making these couplings any tips on bending the etched parts, fitting the latch and loop, and alternatives for the iron wire used to wrap around the lifting stem.

[Kris]

Most n gauge layouts don't feature shunting so rapidos are used. On those that do you will see other solutions.

[bcnPete]

Try DG's instead? I think they are similiar...and fiddly too...but I find it helps to get a little production run going.

 

Well worth it though...they look so much better and work very well too.

[grahame]

N gaugers have been holding their breath and waiting for the now long promised utopian coupling from Farish/Bachmann that will fit NEM sockets and provide shunting functionality. Unfortunately it's yet to arrive and there is now some doubt that it may possibly not be the all singing and all dancing solution once assumed.

 

However, there are a range of other N gauge couplers that will provide some automatic coupling functionality. They tend to be DIY efforts and have been listed and discussed in detail many times here on Rmweb (try searching). Additionally details of using the DG coupler were covered in N'spirations3;

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php/topic/26773-nspirations3/

 

G.

[Revolution Ben]

N gaugers have been holding their breath and waiting for the now long promised utopian coupling from Farish/Bachmann that will fit NEM sockets and provide shunting functionality. Unfortunately it's yet to arrive and there is now some doubt that it may possibly not be the all singing and all dancing solution once assumed.

 

G.

 

Hi all,

 

The forthcoming Farish/Bachann coupler (to be included first as a customer-fit in the scheduled early Class 08) is adapted from the Bachmann US range and will work in the same way as US buckeye couplers. It uncouples over a magnet, and can then be propelled without recoupling to allow vehicles to be "dropped off" in sidings. Away from a magnet, and after the vehicles have moved apart, it will recouple without requiring the hard contact that Rapidos need.

 

The only issue is producing the part to be compatible with NEM mountings and older style Farish pockets (still used on some of the newer items, especially wagons.)

 

I don't think it was ever required to sing, or to dance!!

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

[grahame]

The forthcoming Farish/Bachann coupler (to be included first as a customer-fit in the scheduled early Class 08) is adapted from the Bachmann US range

 

It really needs to be available as a retrofit to existing stock preferably as an easy push-in fit to NEM sockets. Concern over it not being produced as such will limit quick and easy take-up and acceptance. And launching it just with one loco will be pretty pointless without any other British stock having matching couplers fitted to work with.

 

G.

[Revolution Ben]

It really needs to be available as a retrofit to existing stock preferably as an easy push-in fit to NEM sockets. Concern over it not being produced as such will limit quick and easy take-up and acceptance. And launching it just with one loco will be pretty pointless without any other British stock having matching couplers fitted to work with.

 

G.

 

Hi Grahame,

 

You're right - a single loco so equipped would be of little use. But Farish have always been very open in saying that they will produce the NEM type first, with a version compatible with existing coupler pockets coming soon after.

 

Farish have certainly never mentioned any "concerns" to me; they've always been pretty consistent with their intentions and timescales.

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

[PLD]

Hello everyone,

 

Being a relative novice to modelling in N gauge I couldn’t believe how difficult it is to assemble B&B couplings from the N Gauge Society. The first one took me the best part of 2 hours and the second one went in the bin. This got me thinking I attended the East Midlands Model Exhibition where there were several N gauge layouts and what was clearly noticeable that rapido ruled supreme in fact I cannot remember seeing any other couplings being used.

 

On the various forums there are threads after thread stating how poor rapidos are, but the exhibition layouts I’ve seen (even most in the glossy magazines) use rapidos why is this? Are the contributors to the forums a specialist clique and not representative of the hobby as a whole?

 

I really want to model a goods yard with lots of shunting and auto coupling using electromagnets. I went for the B&B couplings because there is no loop to be formed and they offer delayed uncoupling when in operation. So can anyone help? Has anyone got any experience of making these couplings any tips on bending the etched parts, fitting the latch and loop, and alternatives for the iron wire used to wrap around the lifting stem.

Leaving aside the coupling 'politics' and 'wishlists' the best advice I can give as a B&B user for several years and on several layouts is "practice - practice - practice!"

 

The first ones I assembled probably took about the same time as yours, but with experience I developed my own variation of the method of assembly that suited me. Nowadays I usually batch build them, and reckon on about an hour for a full frets worth (10 couplings)

 

I'll add my instructions later and I think I may have some construction photos as well.

 

Don't give up - the difference in operation will make the effort worthwhile

 

Paul

 

 

Try DG's instead? I think they are similiar...and fiddly too...but I find it helps to get a little production run going.

 

Well worth it though...they look so much better and work very well too.

The B&B and DG work on exactly the same principle. In my opinion the appearance of the DG is a little finer, but in my experience, the B&B is easier to assemble (having the preformed loop and proper pivots for the latch) and is more robust in use...

[Last Tracks]

Hi everyone,

 

First of all a big thanks to all for replying.

 

I have persevered and completed the fret. Things did get better I have developed a few techniques which aid assembly although I still struggle fitting the latch and loop into pivot holes bending the side supports out to slot them in is still a bit problematic.

 

Therefore Paul I would be very grateful for any pointers on the fitting the latch and loop.

 

Next step fitting them to a couple of wagons. I let you all know how I get on.

 

 

Tony

[PLD]

Right, it is actually easier and quicker to demonstrate than to describe but here goes...

 

Assembly of B&B couplings

 

1. Check which is the top side of the etch - marked with a T.

2. On this side score down each side piece of the main body of the couplings, and across the front at the point where the side scores reach the front edge; also score across the latch on this side.

3. Turn over the etch and score the hook on this side.

4. Check that the four pivot holes are clear to at least 0.55mm.

5. Cut the loop piece from the etch, clean up any remaining burrs with a file.

6. Cut a length of the steel wire approximately 15 to 20mm in length. Bend this 180 degrees to form a hook approx 1-2mm from the end.

7. Hook the wire around the shaft of the tail and wrap the rest around the cross piece of the tail.

8. Bend the tail downward ensuring that the half etched edge is to the top. It is also beneficial for operation to bend the leading edge of the loop upwards very slightly.

9. Cut the latch piece off the etch and bend to approx 30 degrees.

10. Cut the main body of the coupling off the etch.

a. Bend the hook upwards to just over 90 degrees

b. Next bend the shaft downward the angle needed may vary slightly depending on how the coupling it mounted on the vehicle and the type of vehicle.

c. Finally bend the side plates downwards 90 degrees.

11. Splay the pivot points outwards.

12. Holding the latch in the pliers, insert one end into the pivot hole, then the other end.

13. Squeeze the sides inwards just sufficiently to hold the latch then fit the loop into it’s pivot holes.

14. Adjust the frame sides as necessary ensuring they are square and parallel

15. Check both the latch and the loop can move freely, if not the most likely reason is that they are catching on the shaft

 

Finally you will need some method of ensuring that all the couplings are fitted at the same height so they work reliably: This is the design of my gauges (home made from stacks of the apropriate thickness plasticard)

 

B&B Fitting Instructions.doc

[Karhedron]

Great instructions, thanks for those.

[Last Tracks]

Hi Paul,

 

 

Absolutely Brill!

 

I would have never thought of scoring the parts along the bend lines this must allow much sharper bends to be produced. I assume you use a craft knife to do the scoring. Th gauge you have produced I assume is designed to check the heights of the various parts of the coupling?

 

I have read your attachment and have a query regarding steps 5 and 6 for preparation of a Peco wagon, are you able to elaborate a little on what you are doing with the coupling retaining block as I do not understand.

 

So far I have changed the couplings on 2 Peco wagons and a Grafar pannier. Am I correct in thinking that the hoop only engauges from one side of a pair of couplings when they link together?

 

Finally, thanks again. Have you ever thought about approaching the N Gauge Society to publish these instructions either on their web site or in their Handbook?

 

 

Tony

[PLD]

Hi Paul,

 

Absolutely Brill!

 

I would have never thought of scoring the parts along the bend lines this must allow much sharper bends to be produced. I assume you use a craft knife to do the scoring

Yes score with a slightly blunt used blade in the knife. Main reason for scoring the etch was originally to ensure the folds were square but it certainly does also give a cleaner, sharper bend...

 

The gauge you have produced I assume is designed to check the heights of the various parts of the coupling?

That bit could have been clearer couldn't it... The gauging block is used to ensure all the couplings are at the correct height. There are two parts to consider - the buffing face and the loop.

The block sits on the rails (hence the 9mm wide lowest layer to locate between the rails). the buffing face of the coupling should fit into the 'front' of the block with the ends within the 1mm grooves. The loop should align to fit into the slot in the 'back' of the gauge.

 

I have read your attachment and have a query regarding steps 5 and 6 for preparation of a Peco wagon, are you able to elaborate a little on what you are doing with the coupling retaining block as I do not understand.

On a peco 4 wheel wagon (10ft or 15ft wheelbase) there is a lump on the underside of the body moulding that locates into the top of the coupling housing on the chassis to hold the coupling in place. It is this block that needs to be cut down to be flush with the chassis.

 

So far I have changed the couplings on 2 Peco wagons and a Grafar pannier. Am I correct in thinking that the hoop only engauges from one side of a pair of couplings when they link together?

Yep... It is quite common to omit the loop from locos couplings for appearance.

 

Have you ever thought about approaching the N Gauge Society to publish these instructions either on their web site or in their Handbook?

No thanks...

[Last Tracks]

Hi Paul,

 

Thanks for the further information. I have just got to wait for my next order of B&B's to arrive to put it all into practice.

 

Never mind the N Gauge Society I am just glad you shared your knowledge with this forum.

 

Keep shunting and thanks again

 

Tony

[Last Tracks]

Hello,

 

I was just wondering if any one new of an alternative supplier for B&B couplings? I have purchased previously from the N Gauge Society but with P&P at £3.50 it is a bit steep when these can be posted using first class letter post.

 

Hopefully

 

Tony

[Last Tracks]

Hello,

 

Just looking for some guidance on electro magnetic uncouplers. I am using B&B couplings on N gauge and want to use electro magnetic uncouplers instead of permanent magnets. I know the N Gauge Society offers one for these couplings and that Gaugemaster also produce an uncoupler but are there any others and what experience have forum members had using them? Any information would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

[Mod6]

Three very similar topics from same OP merged.

[PLD]

Hello,

 

I was just wondering if any one new of an alternative supplier for B&B couplings? I have purchased previously from the N Gauge Society but with P&P at £3.50 it is a bit steep when these can be posted using first class letter post.

 

Hopefully

 

Tony

They are ONLY available via the NGS or direct from the manufacturers... (a search of the old forum should find the address)

Last time I checked the price per fret was the same from either but the postage was considerably less getting them direct.

 

 

Hello,

 

Just looking for some guidance on electro magnetic uncouplers. I am using B&B couplings on N gauge and want to use electro magnetic uncouplers instead of permanent magnets. I know the N Gauge Society offers one for these couplings and that Gaugemaster also produce an uncoupler but are there any others and what experience have forum members had using them? Any information would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks

 

Tony

I usually use Seep electromagnets (which are the ones Gaugemaster sell). On other layouts we have used the ones sold by 'Model Signal Engineering'.

[Donw]

Have a look at Missy's post 'Im attracted to you' I think its page 4 on her Highclere blog. DIY electromagnets.

Don

[StuartM]

Right, it is actually easier and quicker to demonstrate than to describe but here goes...

 

00 Contents.JPG

Assembly of B&B couplings

 

1. Check which is the top side of the etch - marked with a T.

2. On this side score down each side piece of the main body of the couplings, and across the front at the point where the side scores reach the front edge; also score across the latch on this side.

01 Etch Scored.JPG

3. Turn over the etch and score the hook on this side.

04 Etch Scored Reverse 2.JPG

4. Check that the four pivot holes are clear to at least 0.55mm.

5. Cut the loop piece from the etch, clean up any remaining burrs with a file.

6. Cut a length of the steel wire approximately 15 to 20mm in length. Bend this 180 degrees to form a hook approx 1-2mm from the end.

7. Hook the wire around the shaft of the tail and wrap the rest around the cross piece of the tail.

06 Wire Tails 1.JPG

8. Bend the tail downward ensuring that the half etched edge is to the top. It is also beneficial for operation to bend the leading edge of the loop upwards very slightly.

08 Loop Completed.JPG

9. Cut the latch piece off the etch and bend to approx 30 degrees.

06 Latches 2.JPG

10. Cut the main body of the coupling off the etch.

a. Bend the hook upwards to just over 90 degrees

b. Next bend the shaft downward the angle needed may vary slightly depending on how the coupling it mounted on the vehicle and the type of vehicle.

c. Finally bend the side plates downwards 90 degrees.

10 Main Body Stages.JPG

11. Splay the pivot points outwards.

12. Holding the latch in the pliers, insert one end into the pivot hole, then the other end.

13. Squeeze the sides inwards just sufficiently to hold the latch then fit the loop into it’s pivot holes.

11 Main Body Stages.JPG

14. Adjust the frame sides as necessary ensuring they are square and parallel

15. Check both the latch and the loop can move freely, if not the most likely reason is that they are catching on the shaft

 

Finally you will need some method of ensuring that all the couplings are fitted at the same height so they work reliably: This is the design of my gauges (home made from stacks of the apropriate thickness plasticard)

B+B Height Gauge.PNG

Any chance of a better photo no:13 as it is impossible to make out what is going on.

A real good close up of the latch would be appreciated as well

Thanks

Stuart

[Kiwi_Ed]

Hi PLD,

 

Thanks a lot for posting these clear instructions. This actually looks like something I could do and also isn't almost doubling the price of each wagon (like the Dapol or kadee couplings would..).

 

What I was wondering after seeing this topic and also reading StuartM's topic (here) is if there are hoops on either side of the wagon. Stuart seems only to have hoops on one side, but you don't seem to mention this in your instructions. As my layout will cause wagons to be turned (basically a continues loop connected to a reversing loop and a terminus) I do need a coupling system that is identical on both sides. I hope someone can clarify this for me.

 

I was also wondering about the "Delayed Uncoupling" of these couplers. If I look at Stuart's youtube clips it looks like he uncouples the wagons, which causes the loops to fall on top of the hooks so that you can actually push the wagons down the siding. Does this still work with two loops?

 

Many thanks,

Edwin

[StuartM]

Hi PLD,

 

Thanks a lot for posting these clear instructions. This actually looks like something I could do and also isn't almost doubling the price of each wagon (like the Dapol or kadee couplings would..).

 

What I was wondering after seeing this topic and also reading StuartM's topic (here) is if there are hoops on either side of the wagon. Stuart seems only to have hoops on one side, but you don't seem to mention this in your instructions. As my layout will cause wagons to be turned (basically a continues loop connected to a reversing loop and a terminus) I do need a coupling system that is identical on both sides. I hope someone can clarify this for me.

 

I was also wondering about the "Delayed Uncoupling" of these couplers. If I look at Stuart's youtube clips it looks like he uncouples the wagons, which causes the loops to fall on top of the hooks so that you can actually push the wagons down the siding. Does this still work with two loops?

 

Many thanks,

Edwin

If your going to turn your stock then you'll need to put loops and latches on both ends.

I personally have not done this, but the couplings are designed to do this, so one assumes it works

The best thing to do is get a set of couplings and have a play around and see what works for you

Rgds,

Stuart

[PLD]

Hi Edwin,
 

What I was wondering after seeing this topic and also reading StuartM's topic (here) is if there are hoops on either side of the wagon. Stuart seems only to have hoops on one side, but you don't seem to mention this in your instructions. As my layout will cause wagons to be turned (basically a continues loop connected to a reversing loop and a terminus) I do need a coupling system that is identical on both sides. I hope someone can clarify this for me.

They can be fitted "double ended" (with loops on both ends of vehicles) or "single ended" (with loops on one end of each vehicle only) but if stock is turned, either by a reverse loop or locos on a turntable you need to use double ended. When used double ended it is common practice to omit the loops from locos for appearance (so long as you dont want to run double headed trains)
 

I was also wondering about the "Delayed Uncoupling" of these couplers. If I look at Stuart's youtube clips it looks like he uncouples the wagons, which causes the loops to fall on top of the hooks so that you can actually push the wagons down the siding. Does this still work with two loops?

Yes it still works with two loops; the only rider is that you may find it beneficial to use more powerful magnets or ones with a larger surface area because they need to atract both couplings or be powerful enough for the lower loop to also push up the other one...