Any Question Answered

[Ian Morgan]

My Mossmer boxes (purchased 1985 I think) have the blue closed cell foam which has survived well, but the thin yellow foam under the red felt covering the base of the upper layer and lid has just recently turned to powder.

 

The sponge used in Peco wonderful wagon boxes did deteriorate and stick to the wagons after a time, much like the sponge 'ballast' strips they used to sell.

[Chris Higgs]

The sponge used in Peco wonderful wagon boxes did deteriorate and stick to the wagons after a time, much like the sponge 'ballast' strips they used to sell.

 

Something else to dig out tonight and check.

 

Chris

[Crosland]

I've seen the mains cable sheathing of a Marklin Z power unit affected by prolonged storage in its expanded polystyrene packing.

 

That's similar to the issue with household ring mains run in wall cavities later filled with polystyrene bead insulation.

[richbrummitt]

The conversations I've had with Mr JB model world gave me sufficient confidence that the foam used in all his trays and boxes was good enough to last. I've had mine for coming up 10 years now and as far as I can tell from look and feel they are like the day I bought them. (usual disclaimer.)

[PaulCheffus]

The conversations I've had with Mr JB model world gave me sufficient confidence that the foam used in all his trays and boxes was good enough to last. I've had mine for coming up 10 years now and as far as I can tell from look and feel they are like the day I bought them. (usual disclaimer.)

Hi

 

Same here and I've had mine for a similar time.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[garethashenden]

I returned from my trip to Ally Pally filled with enthusiasm and found a M7 chassis etch waiting for me. I started building it today and have one question. I've opted for a 0-4-2-2T and it seems that there are two different mounting points for the rear axle. One is in the centre of the bogie, the other is offset to the front. Am I correct that the forward of these two would result in a smaller minimum radius? Is there some other reason I should use the forward mounting point? I think the centre one would be easier...

 

[CF MRC]

Not quite sure what the design idea is for this rear bogie as supplied Gareth, but the front wheels of the bogie will need a centre pivot bearing onto the muff (bit of wire will do) and oval slots to allow a rocking motion for this set of wheels. The longest possible pivoting arm for a pony truck is always a good idea, so I would definitely go for the forward mounting point.

 

Tim

[Donw]

Not quite sure what the design idea is for this rear bogie as supplied Gareth, but the front wheels of the bogie will need a centre pivot bearing onto the muff (bit of wire will do) and oval slots to allow a rocking motion for this set of wheels. The longest possible pivoting arm for a pony truck is always a good idea, so I would definitely go for the forward mounting point.

 

Tim

 

The the first pair of what should be bogie wheels could be a possibility for Chris's radial axle box? or is that a daft idea?

Don 

[Chris Higgs]

I returned from my trip to Ally Pally filled with enthusiasm and found a M7 chassis etch waiting for me. I started building it today and have one question. I've opted for a 0-4-2-2T and it seems that there are two different mounting points for the rear axle. One is in the centre of the bogie, the other is offset to the front. Am I correct that the forward of these two would result in a smaller minimum radius? Is there some other reason I should use the forward mounting point? I think the centre one would be easier...

 

 

The idea is that the rear hole is the one if you build it as an 0-4-4T  ie. it the bogie pivot point.

 

The one furthur forward is the 'pony truck pivot point when built as an 0-4-2-2T. It gives a greater radius of rotation, and also make it less likely that the forward end of the truncated bogie will foul the other carrying wheels.

 

Chris

Edited March 30, 2017 by Chris Higgs

[nick_bastable]

built mine as a 0-4-2-2 although have not mastered pick up from the bogie  however the chassis does run sweet a first for me 

 

Nick

[Chris Higgs]

The the first pair of what should be bogie wheels could be a possibility for Chris's radial axle box? or is that a daft idea?

Don 

 

Well, it won't work with the etch as-is, as the radial box requires some frames to cut a slot into, which are not present.

 

But it did start me thinking as to whether a radial truck could be a viable replacement on an 0-4-4T for the rear bogie wheels i.e.

 

0-4-2(fixed)-2(radial) T

 

I might try experimenting with this as an option on the LSWR O2 chassis. It's possible to design one etch to cover all of the following build possibilities

 

0-4-4

0-4-2-2(pony)

0-4-2-2(radial).

 

 

 

Chris

[justin1985]

On the stock boxes topic, I had been building some small trays inside wooden art boxes, using self-adhesive neoprene closed cell rubber foam (like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261355714768?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=560258211115&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ). Is this a good material? 

 

This thread has reminded me I'm out of space and should probably make up some more.

 

Justin

[Orange Cat]

Anyone still using MBM couplings? There's someone with a load of them on ebay at the moment. I'm tempted, but don't want to commit to them and then not be able to get any more.

[Nigelcliffe]

Anyone still using MBM couplings? There's someone with a load of them on ebay at the moment. I'm tempted, but don't want to commit to them and then not be able to get any more.

 

I doubt any still use it, other than those who've got stock they can't be bothered to convert. 

 

The MBM doesn't do delayed action, so can only uncouple when directly over a magnet.  This makes operating with them very limiting. 

 

Most couplers (eg. DG, BB, Electra, AJ, Kadee/Microtrain, and others) have a delayed action mechanism, so the coupling is released over a magnet, and the stock then propelled until where it is to be left, and the coupling stays open during propelling.   Consequently, one magnet can allow the stock to be left almost anywhere in a group of sidings. 

 

If wanting low-cost, then the Electra and the AJ can be made for pennies each.

 

 

- Nigel

[Orange Cat]

I am a convert to Alex Jacksons now from modelling in larger scales, but I always preferred MBMs to the others. Easy to set up, simple to put together and reliable. If they were still readily available I would choose them now. 

Anyway, I just thought there might be someone out there using them who would welcome the chance to obtain fresh supplies.

[Yorkshire Square]

Does anyone have a pair of 7mm pony truck wheels lying in a gloat box that they might be willing to sell. Willing to pay current shop price plus p&p. Cheers. Tony.

[millerhillboy]

Anyone offer guidance on the best way to attach droppers to easitac/finetrax. I'm playing with finetrax which I believe to be pretty similar to eaistrac in terms of structure but I'm really not sure how to safely, successfully and reliably attach droppers?

 

Am I missing the point and should be thinking about copperclad sleepers for this?

[Caley Jim]

I just flattened the end of a piece of copper wire which was long enough to go through the baseboard, and some, bent it at right angles and soldered the flattened bit to the underside of the rail at each end. These were then passed through holes drilled in the baseboard and adjacent wires twisted and soldered together.

Jim

[Donw]

you could use some of the brass sleepers cutting them in half for insulation. In some cases you can solder a wire to the rail before threading easitrac on either side (best to do two rails with droppers at the same place. then threading the wire though a hole as you set the piece of tack down trimming the rail ends to fit.

If I need to add a wire close to plastic sleepers in place I use forceps clamped to the rail as heat shunts. The type with a curved end are best I find as the handles can rest on the baseboard causing no strain on the rail. You could use pliers but I don't have enough hands. Nicking the wife or girlfriends aluminium hair grips would probably work too.

 

I think you might find adding a brass sleeper btween easitrac sections might be the simplest options you can solder a wire to the side or end of the brass sleeper half so it ends up buried in the ballast

 

Another possibility I haven;t tried wood be to cut a thin ply sleeper and drill through it where the chair would be. pass a piece of brass rod with the end bent over through the hole then solder the rail to the bit bent over ( if it is slightly too high file it down before soldering the rail.

 

Don 

[Valentin]

In my scratch-built chassis I have used a less conventional method to fit the worm-wheel (actually I haven't seen before this arrangement):

 

 

My plan is to enlarge the rear bearing to 1.6 or even 1.7 mm so the worm shaft will have only two firm supporting points: the bearing soldered to the front of the brass block and the one fitted to the chassis between the driving wheels axles. A will be cut slot at the rear of the shaft to slide in the front end of the UJ which will be secured in place by the bearing itself, like Jim Watt did with his CR 391 engine:

 

 

Would this work? Or better to get rid of the front supporting point, extend the worm shaft, just a bit, towards the rear of the chassis then use a slightly larger brass tube as a sleeve to secure the UJ in place?

 

In the arrangement shown above all the components are moving freely which leads me to believe that all are very well aligned.

Edited April 23, 2017 by Valentin

[RichardW1]

In my scratch-built chassis I have used a less conventional method to fit the worm-wheel (actually I haven't seen before this arrangement):

 

 

My plan is to enlarge the rear bearing to 1.6 or even 1.7 mm so the worm shaft will have only two firm supporting points: the bearing soldered to the front of the brass block and the one fitted to the chassis between the driving wheels axles. A will be cut slot at the rear of the shaft to slide in the front end of the UJ which will be secured in place by the bearing itself, like Jim Watt did with his CR 391 engine:

 

 

Would this work? Or better to get rid of the front supporting point, extend the worm shaft, just a bit, towards the rear of the chassis then use a slightly larger brass tube as a sleeve to secure the UJ in place?

 

In the arrangement shown above all the components are moving freely which leads me to believe that all are very well aligned.[/quote Valentin very neat work. The drive arrangement you propose should work fine, might try something like that for the 2-4-0!

[Argos]

I am looking at getting one of the association M7 etched chassis.

 

The product news says it is available but it doesn't seem to appear on the listing?

How do you order? Or am just being thick/blind or both?

 

Thanks

 

Edit at 21.20 - David has just PMed me to say the chassis is now listed.

 

Prompt service! Thanks

Edited April 23, 2017 by Argos

[nick_bastable]

email the shop keeper least ways thats how I got mine

 

Nick

[Caley Jim]

 

Would this work? Or better to get rid of the front supporting point, extend the worm shaft, just a bit, towards the rear of the chassis then use a slightly larger brass tube as a sleeve to secure the UJ in place?

I would leave it as is.  The further apart the bearings are, the more stable will be the shaft in the long term.

 

Jim

[Spodgrim]

I've had an enjoyable weekend building the sides of a Midland Van

 

 

But somewhere along the way I've lost the rivet detail overlays to the door corner and the end stanchion.

 

Short of etching my own kits what's the best way of fabricating new ones. I know in larger scales you can get etches of wagon "strapping" is such a thing avaliable in 2mm?

 

Neil

 

UPDATE I found the corner plate for the door among the detritus on my desk☺ Only one to make.

Edited May 1, 2017 by Spodgrim