RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 26, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 26, 2019 I think I need to start over with my Jinty chassis - it was a great learning experience but the worm gear does not mesh with the spur gear properly when it's running (free-wheeling upside down seems to be fine). I believe this is because of the number of times the chassis was distorted and re-flattened, and that the gearbox is somehow slightly skewed when viewed from above. I'll give it a tweak with the pliers in due course just incase I can get it running, but I'm working on the assumption I'll need to strip it down and start over. Is there a standard method for retrieving the parts from a project such as this? Motor/wheels/gears all seem to be in good nick otherwise, other than the crank pins being soldered/filed to washers on the connecting rods. What I would be inclined to do is make a u-shaped cradle around the worm, holding it so it's supported at each end, on a fairly short length of shaft. The cradle only needs to be fixed to one frame so you'll have no worries about insulation. That will hold the worm nicely in mesh. Then you can connect the motor to the worm with a length of flexible tubing, such silicone rigging tube as used by fishermen. Once you've done this, the motor position is not at all critical. Some of the etched chassis kits have that cradle provided which is an infinitely better way to mesh a worm & worm wheel. The alternative is to mount the motor rigidly and as close to the worm as possible. Here's how I've set up a motor mount for my Peckett - which I really must crack on with! https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/1345/entry-19090-peckett-y-class-framed-part-3/ Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 Sorry Jim - I was talking about a replacement section of track - I would be pulling out a turnout and a few inches of plain track around it, and as I said I'm not super clear on the best way to join up these formations - the precise measurement of something so large/bendy/3D to it slots perfectly in, as well as keeping everything aligned. When I was laying the little plank out, I thought I could get away with easitrac webbing across the join but that's just not cutting it. It might be because I'm using a cork roadbed (never again!). I would make the new section slightly over long at each end and then trim back the rails until it fitted. If you're doing it in situ, then just do that with each rail, though of course then you only need to trim one end. For aligning lengths of track when laying them I either just do it by using the Mk1 human eyeball or with a roller gauge positioned across the joint, so that it holds each rail. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 26, 2019 Share Posted January 26, 2019 Thanks Jim, I know I am being unreasonable expecting perfect running on my first 2FS layout, but at least I have a path to improve. Much appreciated too Mark, Izzy - I think I will put the Jinty away until Shop3 reopens and let my blood pressure recover. Best, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 I did mount the motor flat on my 08 chassis using a slab of d/s PCB frame spacer for it to sit on so the chassis sides were isolated from it and each other. Can't find the posted image to link to so here it is again. 08 web 7.jpg It worked because I had the advantage of using one of the earlier long black nylon worms with a 1mm bore, (from Ultrascale), and I am not sure whether it would work with the shorter white ones now provided unless a sleeve is used. Personally I find sleeving worms on shafts quite an iffy task, all too often getting an eccentric end result and less than wonderful meshing. One point is that I did add another layer around the frames to strengthen them where the wormwheel shaft exists. I tried the same arrangement with my 04, again with a long worm, RMweb 04 05.jpg but like the 08 replaced the motor with an e-bay 7x16 coreless which enabled use of a much shorter worm on a short sleeve. RMweb 04 01.jpg Sadly these motors are no longer available but the general principle holds good I think. Izzy It might be worth ordering some of these: http://ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/view/CAT015/481 Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted January 27, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 27, 2019 Thanks Jim, I know I am being unreasonable expecting perfect running on my first 2FS layout, but at least I have a path to improve. Much appreciated too Mark, Izzy - I think I will put the Jinty away until Shop3 reopens and let my blood pressure recover. Best, Looking at what you've got so far, the chassis looks recoverable so don't scrap it. There's no reason why anyone shouldn't achieve good running on their first 2mm layout. My first layout proved OK. The trick is not to be too ambitious. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 Looking at what you've got so far, the chassis looks recoverable so don't scrap it. There's no reason why anyone shouldn't achieve good running on their first 2mm layout. My first layout proved OK. The trick is not to be too ambitious. Or to dismiss it without carrying out a close inspection to see what exactly is causing the problem. Otherwise you might unwittingly repeat the error. The fact that there has been some minor movement in back to back's should never be discounted. I recall a one time member of our group (he since moved away) whose Association kit-built 08 jumped every time it went through a crossing. Close observation showed that it happened when the centre wheels were going through. The back-to-back on them turned out to be very slightly tight, but it was enough to cause the wheels to ride up on the wing or check rail. Opening them out by a tiny fraction solved the issue. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lacathedrale Posted January 27, 2019 Share Posted January 27, 2019 Chris - thank you for the link but £7 postage for a couple of £1.80 worms is a bit much from Ultrascale. Mark, Jim - As soon as I am away from the workbench I'm really happy with the Jinty and all the lessons learned. Certainly, I think there are some really obvious issues with the chassis that I won't worry about last time.: Muffs undersized (idler gear) and oversized (wheel axles) Protruding edge of bearings through chassis not filed down to ensure accurate B2B can be achieved Multiple insertion/removal of wheels and idler gears (along with incorrectly sized muffs) into very tight muffs ripped up the Simpson springs and bashed one of the chassis sides out like a banana I did not test-fit the gearbox tabs for the fold over, after some more thorough going over I can see that the outer folds didn't register properly, and there was way too much slack in the bearing holes after I had reamed them out to fit the bearings - probably the cause of my problems. Painted before I was fully finished soldering, causing it to bubble and flake off All of these things are (mostly) simple knowledge points and I don't expect to repeat the errors again. I won't ditch the chassis by any means, but given the missing and damaged parts, I'm not sure I have the skill to fix yet. Thanks again all, I'll keep on at it and if I have any questions will post here but otherwise try to stop spamming Best, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 (edited) The arrangement drawing for the replacement chassis of Class03/04 shows two relatively short (4.4 mm) PCB spacers: one at each end. I was thinking to add another one, 0.8 mm thick PCB in the middle, as shown below. My plan is to use only one driven axle, the rear one, so the middle and front axles will have 2.3 mm muffs. Apart from strengthening the chassis, this spacer will also have the role to support the motor. Can anyone think of any draw-backs of my plan? Edited January 28, 2019 by Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted January 28, 2019 Share Posted January 28, 2019 Provided it's underside is well clear of the muffs I can't see any drawbacks, Valentin, but then I'm not familiar with that chassis. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 How large the holes in the connecting rods could be before having issues with the running qualities of a 0-6-0 chassis? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 2mmMark Posted February 1, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 1, 2019 3 hours ago, Valentin said: How large the holes in the connecting rods could be before having issues with the running qualities of a 0-6-0 chassis? They can be quite large. If you were to pick up my J69 and shake it, it rattles like a Lone Star pushalong Jinty. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 On 1/28/2019 at 6:53 PM, Valentin said: The arrangement drawing for the replacement chassis of Class03/04 shows two relatively short (4.4 mm) PCB spacers: one at each end. I was thinking to add another one, 0.8 mm thick PCB in the middle, as shown below. My plan is to use only one driven axle, the rear one, so the middle and front axles will have 2.3 mm muffs. Apart from strengthening the chassis, this spacer will also have the role to support the motor. Can anyone think of any draw-backs of my plan? It's exactly what I have done on at least one replacement chassis. It helps stiffen up the chassis no end. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 Can anybody tell me please whether any of the separate etch axle boxes are suitable for the 16t BR mineral? I can’t tell from the descriptions and the carpet has eaten at least one of mine. TIA John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 1 hour ago, John57sharp said: Can anybody tell me please whether any of the separate etch axle boxes are suitable for the 16t BR mineral? I can’t tell from the descriptions and the carpet has eaten at least one of mine. TIA John BR 16T mineral wagons were built and/or seen with RCH, LMS and LNER style axleboxes. Whether they match the ones supplied those with the chassis is another matter. ALthough mix and match axleboxes on a single wagon were certainly not unknown. Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted February 4, 2019 Share Posted February 4, 2019 6 hours ago, Chris Higgs said: BR 16T mineral wagons were built and/or seen with RCH, LMS and LNER style axleboxes. Whether they match the ones supplied those with the chassis is another matter. ALthough mix and match axleboxes on a single wagon were certainly not unknown. Chris Thanks Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 John, Which chassis is it that you've used? I have loads of spares of the etched axleboxes from various chassis and I'd be happy to put some in the post to you if you PM me your address. Andy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) I am looking into getting some good quality drilling bits. I was browsing the Drill Service (Horley) Ltd website and I am overwelmed by the huge range of drilling bits they sell. Could the more experienced modellers suggest what type are best suited for our needs? Thank you, Edited February 5, 2019 by Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 (edited) Would the components in the below photos make two prototypical wagons? From left to right: Bodies: 2-554 RCH 1887 open wagons Chassis: 2-327 RCH 9' wheelbase Wheels: 2-010 8 spoke / 6mm diameter Buffers: 2-070 v1 RCH 4 rib The brakes are on one side only with one shoe. Edited February 19, 2019 by Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 On 05/02/2019 at 12:32, Valentin said: I am looking into getting some good quality drilling bits. I was browsing the Drill Service (Horley) Ltd website and I am overwelmed by the huge range of drilling bits they sell. Could the more experienced modellers suggest what type are best suited for our needs? Thank you, Valentin, I've just seen your earlier question. I've used the HSS Jobber drill bits on various 2mm-related projects and they seem to work OK; https://www.drill-service.co.uk/products/drills/jobber-drill/d-hss-jobber-drill/ Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 5 hours ago, Valentin said: Would the components in the below photos make two prototypical wagons? With exception of the wheels (I used open spoke 2-015) they are what I used to make a variety of PO wagons for Kirkallanmuir. And a selection of fictitious ones! 5 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Can I ask please what options are used to permanently couple rakes of wagons together? I almost have enough for a rake (3!) and my thoughts have turned to couplings. I have some DGs ready for the ends, but would prefer to keep them joined together. There is is some discussion back up the forum about 3-link, which sounds scary to be honest! Thanks in advance John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 (edited) I have a length of wire attached behind one headstock which has an ' upstand ' at the other end which engages behind that of the adjacent vehicle. This allows the buffers to close up when propelling, but opens out when pulling. Jim Edited February 23, 2019 by Caley Jim Typo Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 That’s exactly the kind of thing I had hoped to read Caley Jim, simple and practical. Thanks! John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 Just make sure the wire sit just a little under the headstock of the second vehicle so that there is no tendency for it to lift that vehicle. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Having started work on couplings as per the previous messages, my thoughts have turned to loading the wagons. Any advice please on the best way to represent coal in 16t minerals etc? I’m guessing real coal powder may work. cheers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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