ian@stenochs Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Simon, Glad you have got another bit on, sometimes it just takes a wee bit time off the job for a problem to resolve itself. Thinking further on my stalled projects, photo below is only some!, I can think of a number of reasons for the holdup. Firstly. The next bit of the project is a bit tedious or time consuming. The 3 locos in the photo need chimneys and other boiler mountings which needs me to set up for fly cutting and turning. I know too that it will be the best part of an afternoon to make one chimney. I'm not in the mood or cannot find the time. Secondly. Something else has taken my interest. At the moment it is an etched kit which I have been asked to test build. Thirdly. Don't have the correct material or tool for the job. Bit of a cop out that one as there are always alternatives. Fourthly. Lack of information, common one this as I often spend hours looking for a picture which shows up a detail. I model pre-group so photos are thin on the ground and usually 3/4front which doesn't help in a lot of instances. Fifthly. I'm not disciplined enough! I think this is the real reason if I'm honest. However, I have the tenders for the 3 engines in the photo all ready finished and waiting. I hate building tenders and always get them out the way first! Ian. More a Real Ale man! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Cheers Ian; a fine selection of locomotives, thankyou. And some more interesting thoughts about finishing stuff. I'm going to need a checklist on the wall of my workshop. I'd be very interested in seeing a step-by-step guide on making boiler fittings the next time you're in the mood! I've recently aquired a small (tiny) lathe and may eventually get around to making something on it but I'm not sure where to start (that'll be a matter of confidence...). Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Hi folks: A question: I know the thing on the right is a motor 'cos I've seen those before. I'm pretty sure the little blue thingy on the left is the "dropper resistor" because it was in the packet. The instructions say "the resister must be connected in series to the motor and away from direct contact with the motor". Could anyone tell me in very simple words and or pictures, how to connect the two without the sudden explosion of either? Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Hi Simon, Cut one of the motor wires, doesn't matter which, and solder the resistor between the cut ends. Current flows through the resistor and then the motor. Hope this is clear. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Thanks Ian, that sounds really good...very achievable! Does it not matter which way around the resistor goes? Ta Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Simon, No. You can shorten and bend the resistor tails to make fitting easier if required Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Marvellous Ian; thanks very much indeed. While I gird my loins for battle with the resistor, here's how the rolling chassis is taking shape. I've used a spare Farish pony truck with the correct(ish) size wheels fitted. The cylinders have been filed to a more cylindrical shape for added clearance and the cross-head doctored to make it as single barred as Adams intended. The rear truck is a simple bar and tube. Goodness me is N gauge fiddly... The chassis needs some cosmetic work and then...the motor. Exciting! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 Right, ha ha! Resistor mounted on little block of PCB and various wires attached in true Frankenstein manner. Motor stuck down with araldite, and it works. Hurrah! Some fiddling and fine tuning to go, but getting there! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted July 24, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 24, 2015 Looking good Simon. The little Lawton 8mm motor is superb, it's standard issue on all my small locos. Must admit I never bother with the resistor, I' don't think you need it unless you stall it and keep pumping current through it. John Greenwood and I have over a dozen of them in various locos, both DC and DCC and haven't managed to blow one up yet! Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 Thanks Jerry. It is a rather nice little piece of kit.How do you attach your motors to the chassis and what sort of gearing do you use? Regards Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted July 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 25, 2015 If I can fit some sort of motor mount in I will do that, but more often than not I will simply glue them in. A little spot of super glue is usually sufficient and is easily broken should I need to take the motor out. As for gears, I aim for somewhere around 50 or 60:1 with the little Lawton motors. An Association 30:1 plus the 14 and 28 tooth 100DP gears second stage is a favourite arrangement. For bigger passenger locos, such as the MR 3P currently on my Bath Queensquare thread, I find a single stage 38:1 is sufficient Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Thanks very much Jerry, I'll see how the araldite does. How critical do you find the gear meshing by the way? I asked a question about colour matches for LMS crimson lake on the Painting bit of the Skill Centre and got somre very useful replies, thanks to Pete Harvey for one. I also discovered a thread by Mythocentric about real life colour matches where he posts a link to a web-site that does it for you. Brilliant. Here it is. http://scalemodeldb.com Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 27, 2015 Author Share Posted July 27, 2015 Some while back, EKR mentioned 2mm lamp irons and here they are! Tiny. The other thing is a Westinghouse brake pump built up from wire and tube. That'll go on after painting and lining. I filed up some brackets for the destination board and managed to solder them in place along with the first lamp-iron, which will do for now. This sort if thing doesn't improve hang-overs... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 28, 2015 Author Share Posted July 28, 2015 Ok, nearly there. A clean up, paint, final details and some further fiddling with the chassis and she's done...hurrah! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Do you file the steps from solid? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 29, 2015 Author Share Posted July 29, 2015 Hi Rich, the steps are fantastic little castings from NBrass, I adapted them slightly for the Tilbury. I've never thought about filing steps from solid, it's a really good idea, they can be very fiddly to solder up. Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 Here's the Tilbury cleaned up (Shiny Sinks and lashings of hot water). THe paint studio. Halfords red (orangy red) primer. Some attention to the chassis. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 You need a rolling road Simon. Very nice build. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted August 8, 2015 Author Share Posted August 8, 2015 Cheers Pete, afraid my only rolling road at the moment is for 7mm scale so a wee bit too big. I might have a look at Railwells tomorrow... Here's the paint job so far... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Another modification to the Hobby Holidays chassis jig... And another little painting project... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted October 29, 2015 Author Share Posted October 29, 2015 Some up-dates! After Pete's suggestion of the need for a rolling road, I eventually bought a do-it-yourself RR kit from NBrass locos. And very nice it is too. It has the great advantage of being adjustable for lots of different gauges around the 2mm to 4mm scales. Here it is helping the N gauge Tilbury tank run in its new scratch-built single slide bars. Later on it will come in handy for running in this ScaleFour G6 tank loco. Once I've finished fiddling with the chassis. Cheers Simon 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 Some up-dates! Here's the N-Gauge Tilbury tank in her new home. And the 7mm Ford Bo-Bo shunter ready for painting... Cheers Simon 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Here's a small side project; I've been asked to scratch-build a tender for an MSWJR 2-6-0 as originally running on that railway. It's in P4, with Gibson sprung horn-blocks and split axle pick-up. I started by building an inside frame chassis to take the horn-blocks. To chassis sides are joined by gapped PCB spacers. I made up some temporary spacers from threaded rod. The PCB was soldered in with the frames resting on thin card to slightly raise them. The tender floor will rest on these spacers and so be insulated from the sides. The wheels have split axles held in paxolin muffs turned for me by Stephen. The Gibson wheels are shorted to the axle halves using etched collars. The inside frames are just hidden by the cosmetic outside frames which were cut and rivetted from nickel silver. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Nice bit of workmanship. Ilike the idea for keeping the frames insulated from the body. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sej Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Thanks Peter, dabbling in 2mm has introduced me to quite a few new methods that are equally at home in other scales! Cheers Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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