Dock Green

[chaz]

Evening Chaz,

 

This particular relay sounds about right, would you agree? Sorry for all the questions.

 

Martyn.

 

 

12v-dc-2a-spdt-miniature-relay

12V DC 2A SPDT Miniature Relay

Code: N90ED

Suits various circuits in the modelling and hobby markets

Pin terminals for easily soldered joints

2A switching capacity

£2.99

 

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Product details

• Suits various circuits in the modelling and hobby markets

• Pin terminals for easily soldered joints

• 2A switching capacity

• Designed for operation on a 12V DC power source

• Single pole double throw

 

Why use a standard relay?

This relay is perfect for use in home automation, modelling applications or hobbies. The relay can be mounted onto a PCB board, and comes with eight easily soldered pins. Its compact size means the relay can fit into a wide range of projects and enclosures. The relay can be run off a 12V power supply.

 

What does single pole double throw (SPDT) mean?

A single pole double throw relay is used to alternate which circuit a signal or voltage is sent to. It has one terminal on one side of the switch, known as the common, and two on the other side called normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC). When the relay’s coil is not powered, the common connector will be linked to the NC connection. When the relay is powered, the common connector will be linked to the NO connection.

 

Why would I use a relay?

There are several advantages to using a relay. You may want to switch a high current to a lower current, for example controlling a mains operated device using a lower powered switch.

You can use a SPDT relay to connect a circuit in one way when there is no power and another when the relay is active - for example switching from a red light to a green light when the relay is activated.

 

No need to apologise! One of the merits of a forum like this is that if you ask questions there will be a queue of people giving you answers.

 

SPDT contacts will do the crossing polarity switching so that's good. 2A switching capacity is OK - in fact it doesn't matter that much as no current should be flowing when you throw the point - you don't usually throw them with a loco' running over them - do you?

 

Can you post a link to this catalogue entry?

 

Chaz

[3 link]

Good evening Chaz,

 

For some reason I am unable to post a link from the catalogue, the entry is from the Maplins website and the item number is N90ED.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

[chaz]

Good evening Chaz,

 

For some reason I am unable to post a link from the catalogue, the entry is from the Maplins website and the item number is N90ED.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn.

 

That looks very like the relay I used on some of Dock Green's points. I stuck them down with sticky buds and wired directly to the pins with multistrand wire. It's OK to do that but don't dwell too long with the iron.

 

Chaz

[Simond]

Perhaps better to solder the wires on the relay before installing it, you can always connect it to the track & supply using choccy-blocks like I did under PD Loco.

 

Best

Simon

[chaz]

Perhaps better to solder the wires on the relay before installing it, you can always connect it to the track & supply using choccy-blocks like I did under PD Loco.

 

Best

Simon

 

And your "choccy-blocks" will allow a quick change-over if the polarity is set reversed.

[Simond]

Precisely!

[chaz]

An experiment with these...

 

 

I bought them (and a book on weathering) from Phil of Hobby Holidays. I am going to weather some steel hopper wagons for my On30 FVRR but I thought I would try them out first on a 7mm wagon - a Coopercraft all steel open (possibly a loco coal wagon?).

My first step was to paint the sides of the wagon with patchy rust colours. I used enamels, applied with a brush, for this - but an airbrush could be used.

 

 

Once the enamel was quite dry (I left it for a week or so, but a day ought to be enough) I sprayed over it with the acrylic fluids, using the "worn effects" on one side and the "heavy chipping" on the other. Once the fluids had dried (I allowed an hour) I sprayed over them with Humbrol acrylic* #64 - matt light gray.

 

*it must be acrylic - or the worn effects will not work

 

 

Once the top layer of paint was dry I wetted it with a soft brush (with water!) and then attacked the grey paint. Just rubbing with a paintbrush has some effect, but I also used an old toothbrush and a cocktail stick.

 

This is the result on the side treated with the "worn effects" fluid.

 

 

And this is the result on the side treated with the "heavy chipping" fluid.

 

 

Encouraging results I think, and worth the effort. I like the random nature of the effect and the difference that the two types of fluid produce is useful. In a rake of hoppers it will be nice to have a variety of finishes.

 

This wagon had been retired from the Dock Green fleet and was demoted to the "spares" box but it might well be reinstated once I have put the numbers back on it.

 

Chaz

 

PS - although I have used the technique to model rusting - because that's what on intend for my FVRR steel hoppers - you can also use it to model paint wear where one colour has been damaged to reveal an older livery beneath it.

Edited April 16, 2017 by chaz

[81A Oldoak]

An experiment with these...

 

 

I bought them (and a book on weathering) from Phil of Hobby Holidays. I am going to weather some steel hopper wagons for my On30 FVRR but I thought I would try them out first on a 7mm wagon - a Coopercraft all steel open (possibly a loco coal wagon?).

My first step was to paint the sides of the wagon with patchy rust colours. I used enamels, applied with a brush, for this - but an airbrush could be used.

 

 

Once the enamel was quite dry (I left it for a week or so, but a day ought to be enough) I sprayed over it with the acrylic fluids, using the "worn effects" on one side and the "heavy chipping" on the other. Once the fluids had dried (I allowed an hour) I sprayed over them with Humbrol acrylic* #64 - matt light gray.

 

*it must be acrylic - or the worn effects will not work

 

 

Once the top layer of paint was dry I wetted it with a soft brush (with water!) and then attacked the grey paint. Just rubbing with a paintbrush has some effect, but I also used an old toothbrush and a cocktail stick.

 

This is the result on the side treated with the "worn effects" fluid.

 

 

And this is the result on the side treated with the "heavy chipping" fluid.

 

 

An encouraging result I think, and worth the effort. I like the random nature of the effect.

 

This wagon had been retired from the Dock Green fleet and was demoted to the "spares" box but it might well be reinstated once I have put the numbers back on it.

 

Chaz

 

PS - although I have used the technique to model rusting - because that's what on intend for my FVRR steel hoppers - you can also use it to model paint wear where one colour has been damaged to reveal an older livery beneath it.

Interesting Chaz. How much does the stuff cost? Nice to see you working on something GWR.

 

Chris

[chaz]

Interesting Chaz. How much does the stuff cost? Nice to see you working on something GWR.

 

Chris

 

I paid £4.99 for each. They are both clear and spray like water.

 

http://ak-interactive.com/v2/

 

"Nice to see you working on something GWR."  Now don't get carried away Chris, I won't be getting a pannier tank to go with it! (not even one of your excellent models!).

 

ATB

 

Chaz

[chaz]

What's giving me pause for thought is at what stage to add transfers to a model which is to be weathered using the AK fluids. I think, on balance, that the only safe way to apply waterslides (decals) would be after the somewhat abrasive actions "damaging" the top coat. Certainly the transfers I have for the FVRR, which were printed on in white on an ALPS printer would not take kindly to water and any sort of overwork. They are very fragile until they have had a spray of varnish - Dullcote being my preferred tipple. The varnished transfers can be toned down and blended in with a fine brush to match the surface around them.

 

Anybody who wishes to see further work with the weathering fluids can follow the link to the Furness Valley (below) as I will be posting progress there.

 

Chaz

[Derbys65]

I use all the AK range and very good they are too. Also the effect varies depending on how long you have let it dry .

[chaz]

I use all the AK range and very good they are too. Also the effect varies depending on how long you have let it dry .

 

Interesting - can you explain how drying time alters the result please?

[Derbys65]

I have found , when using a short drying time you get more of an effect , than when leaving for a long period of time. It all depends on what sort of finish you want. I stipple on different shades of rust colour underneath. I then use the worn effects for small areas and the chipping effects for larger area. Anyone new to this , it's just like the hairspray method but you have alot more control.

I have been using the stuff for about 2 years .

Also reference prices any of the AK paints or Vallejo are a damn site cheaper direct from Spain .

Hope this helps

[sb67]

I have found , when using a short drying time you get more of an effect , than when leaving for a long period of time. It all depends on what sort of finish you want. I stipple on different shades of rust colour underneath. I then use the worn effects for small areas and the chipping effects for larger area. Anyone new to this , it's just like the hairspray method but you have alot more control.

I have been using the stuff for about 2 years .

Also reference prices any of the AK paints or Vallejo are a damn site cheaper direct from Spain .

Hope this helps

 

Do you get them from Spain using their website and does it work out postage and exchange rate for you?

[Derbys65]

Do you get them from Spain using their website and does it work out postage and exchange rate for you?

 

I ordered some Vallejo recently, on a Sunday night , received on Wednesday . The ones I got were £7.99 on Amazon and around £3.15 direct .

[sb67]

Wow! that's some difference! what website did you use, I couldn't seem to buy them from the AV website?

Steve.

Edited April 17, 2017 by sb67

[Derbys65]

AK interactive site €3.50

 

 

 

http://ak-interactive.com/v2/product-category/ak-weathering-products/chipping-fluids/

Edited April 22, 2017 by Derbys65

[chaz]

Final reminder - your only chance to see Dock Green in action this year.

 

This coming weekend, if you are in the Salisbury area why not come and say hello?

 

http://www.sswrs.org.uk/page44a.html

[chaz]

The time I invested in adding relays to the Tortoises to eliminate the problems with crossing switching seems to have paid off. At the Salisbury show yesterday we didn't have one stall on a crossing. We did however have a few stalls which were down to dirty wheels so the first job this morning will be to clean all the locomotive wheels thoroughly (with lighter fuel and cotton buds). I do rely on an application of graphite to the rail tops but this can't work miracles - although it gets close! It's been a while since the last show so dust and spiders have been busy.

 

Nice small local show with a good variety of layouts. Full marks to the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Railway Society for their organisation, for their friendly and helpful members, for choosing a hall where we can park the van right next to an access door and for the bacon butties on arrival. 

 

I did notice that, as at many shows, some of the layout owners put dust sheets over their models before leaving in the evening. This strikes me as a bit pointless - the layouts are quite open to dust throughout the day - when the hall is full of people stirring it up. Overnight the hall is empty and locked up - with surely far less dust in the air?

 

Chaz

[Simond]

Chaz,

 

I have no direct experience of exhibiting on which to draw, but I expect that the people moving keep the dust in suspension, but once the air goes still, the dust drops...

 

Best

Simon

[Guius]

The old GPO open frame relays were a boon to modelmakers - they provided all the point motors and signal motors for Diggle & Halebarns. I understand they were cheap, but I were nowt but a learner in those days!

 

Best

Simon

I'm still using B.A. brass nuts, bolts and set pins that came out of a 1920's Strueger exchange and switchboard scrapped in the 1980's, kicked myself remorsefully many times since for not stripping out relays, switches etc. while I had the chance.

Regards

Guy

 

[martin.a.ball]

Finally got to see Dock Green at the Salisbury MR show yesterday with Chaz and his team doing an excellent job of keeping us public entertained. Having read large parts of this thread it was good to see features like the warehouse staircase, illuminated office, platform trollies and the cobbles.

 

As someone starting out in 7mm it was great to chat with Chaz about kit building wagons. He reckons brass kits are a lot easier than most people think and was encouraging me to have a go.

 

No photos I'm afraid. I'm sure others took some and there are plenty earlier in this thread.

[chaz]

Finally got to see Dock Green at the Salisbury MR show yesterday with Chaz and his team doing an excellent job of keeping us public entertained. Having read large parts of this thread it was good to see features like the warehouse staircase, illuminated office, platform trollies and the cobbles.

 

As someone starting out in 7mm it was great to chat with Chaz about kit building wagons. He reckons brass kits are a lot easier than most people think and was encouraging me to have a go.

 

No photos I'm afraid. I'm sure others took some and there are plenty earlier in this thread.

 

"He reckons brass kits are a lot easier than most people think" - I have to add the cautionary caveat "some" brass kits to that statement. Start with a Connoisseur wagon kit - they are a pretty safe bet. There are still plenty of real dogs in the brass kit world which might well defeat and discourage a beginner. You will have to invest in a few tools if you don't already have them but nothing that will break the bank. There is lots of useful info' on RMweb but be aware people do express varying opinions about some aspects of kit building. What I would say to that is there are more ways than one to skin this cat - once you get underway you will find ways that suit you.

 

PM sent.

 

Chaz

[2ManySpams]

"He reckons brass kits are a lot easier than most people think" - I have to add the cautionary caveat "some" brass kits to that statement. Start with a Connoisseur wagon kit - they are a pretty safe bet. There are still plenty of real dogs in the brass kit world which might well defeat and discourage a beginner. You will have to invest in a few tools if you don't already have them but nothing that will break the bank. There is lots of useful info' on RMweb but be aware people do express varying opinions about some aspects of kit building. What I would say to that is there are more ways than one to skin this cat - once you get underway you will find ways that suit you.

 

PM sent.

 

Chaz

 

Sound advice Chaz.

[chaz]

Chaz,

 

I have no direct experience of exhibiting on which to draw, but I expect that the people moving keep the dust in suspension, but once the air goes still, the dust drops...

 

Best

Simon

 

So the dust sheets should go on as the last visitor is leaving....  

 

I could add that my reluctance to use dust sheets is also down to the prospect of damaging details (signal finial, street lamps etc) when putting them over or removing them. And I can't be bothered.