Wright writes.....

[mullie]

Really good to see coverage of the M&GN section. Here is my version of the type of halts built on the stretch from Melton Constable to Yarmouth Beach, often to serve the holiday camps. Built from bits of balsa, a Wills bench the fencing is Hornby I think?

 

 

Martyn

[Mark C]

Tony

 

Those M&GN shots are to savour and you definitely get the feel of that railway from them.

 

My version is still some way off yet, but here's a taster...a Crownline kit (one of two) that stalled when Bachmann's Mucky Duck emerged all those years ago.  It will get finished one day, but my two (plus a D16/3 and a couple of brake vans) can be seen on Tom Foster's page elsewhere on this site - the RTR competition is tough to beat, let alone match, for certain types.

 

Regards

Mark

 

[Tony Wright]

43 minutes ago, Wingman Mothergoose said:

 

Whoops! Thought I'd put my name at the bottom! I'm Chris, and my Layout is Richmond North Yorkshire(I do have a thread for it on here that I occasionally update, I do have a YouTube channel and post regularly on one or two groups on Facebook), it's still vey much in its infancy, but I'm hoping to make steady progress in the coming months.

 

Chris

Thanks Chris,

 

It's instantly recognisable, and looks to be a very accurate representation of that lovely station building (which still exists, of course, but the railway is long-gone). 

 

What scale is it, please?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Wingman Mothergoose]

39 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Chris,

 

It's instantly recognisable, and looks to be a very accurate representation of that lovely station building (which still exists, of course, but the railway is long-gone). 

 

What scale is it, please?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I can't take credit for the building I'm afraid, they were built in 1975 by Louis Heath. I'm doing my best to preserve and improve on his work. The train shed roof will need replacing soon as it hasn't stood the test of time and has warped quite badly.

I've managed a couple of field trips out to the real Richmond and have taken plenty of photographs for reference. 

I've only been able to start on the layout again in the last couple of days as I've had to insulate and board out the garage to keep the damp out and make it a nicer place to be, so in the mean time I've been busy building Ian Kirk Gresley suburban coaches, and converting some of them into articulated twin sets. 

 

Chris

 

[Wingman Mothergoose]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Chris,

 

It's instantly recognisable, and looks to be a very accurate representation of that lovely station building (which still exists, of course, but the railway is long-gone). 

 

What scale is it, please?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Its in OO gauge, sorry, I forgot that you'd asked!

 

Chris

[Wingman Mothergoose]

Here is some of my current work, at the back is a Kirk twin set that I’ve been building for the last few weeks, and front is a 3rd brake and full 3rd that I’m converting into another twin. 
 

Chris

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, Mark C said:

Tony

 

Those M&GN shots are to savour and you definitely get the feel of that railway from them.

 

My version is still some way off yet, but here's a taster...a Crownline kit (one of two) that stalled when Bachmann's Mucky Duck emerged all those years ago.  It will get finished one day, but my two (plus a D16/3 and a couple of brake vans) can be seen on Tom Foster's page elsewhere on this site - the RTR competition is tough to beat, let alone match, for certain types.

 

Regards

Mark

 

Thanks Mark,

 

Progress looks encouraging,

 

Thanks for showing us. 

 

Tony Geary built a Millholme 'Flying Pig', describing it as a 'knife and fork' job. It ran on Leighford and Charwelton, but he's probably sold it now. He made a splendid job of a pretty awful kit.

 

I haven't built a Crownline Ivatt 2-6-0 4MT, though I have built several other Crownline kits (disliking intensely the resin boiler where one is supplied). The one on yours looks to be OK, but don't forget nine-spoke pony wheels are required. 

 

There's no doubt about it, when Bachmann's RTR version came out, it would have knocked any kits for the same type for six. 

 

I have completed a scratch-built Ivatt 'Doodlebug' for a friend.......

 

 

This has a most-interesting, if somewhat lugubrious history.

 

It was started by a chap many years ago who later died. It was passed to a friend of his who added some more to it, then he died. It then went to a friend of my friend who also added a bit more to it. Though he didn't die, he was seriously injured in a road accident; so much so that he can no longer model. Thus, it came to my friend.

 

The bodies of both the loco and tender were substantially complete, and there were parts for the chassis. He asked me if I'd finish it. Neither of us are superstitious, so I said 'Yes', and did.

 

Both the loco and tender bodies went to Mike Edge, who very kindly removed a mass of detritus and flux-residue (he has some magic gadget for this). They came back spotless. Thanks again Mike. 

 

The frames are part scratch-built, with Comet motion. I also made a set of tender frames. I completed the bodywork (detailing, really - masses of pipes and so forth), painted it, lettered/numbered it and weathered it. 

 

It now runs on LB, but it's still my friend's property. If it is 'cursed', that curse is quite specific. To be safe you must either own it but do no work on it, or not own it but then you're safe work on it! 

 

When I ask my friend if he'd like it back, he politely refuses. 'I know where it is', and that's that. I'm very happy to run it, and in the picture it's working the 'Leicester', complete with the M&GNR's only catering car (at any one time). 

 

It's not dead right, but I think it captures the spirit of this class, so synonymous with the M&GNR. It's not tablet-catcher-fitted (a job too far), but it is Peterborough-allocated, so could have worked on the M&GNR.

 

Finally, the finishing touch to the new D16/3...........

 

 

The front numberplate. It's one of Ian Wilson's Pacific Models printed-paper ones. One gets every loco in a class on a sheet. Why folk muck around joining bits of transfers together to make front numberplates is beyond me.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

[thegreenhowards]

Tony,

 

Can I ask you a question about which solder to buy? With all my lockdown modelling, I’ve nearly run out of mid temperature solder for brass kits. Rather than buying the normal small packs for £5 or so which don’t last long, I thought I’d buy a big 500gm reel like the one you have. However, I’m not sure which temperature to buy for general purpose brass kit construction. You seem to be able to buy 145C, 179C and 188C solder. I believe 145C is for adding small detail once the main pieces have been soldered together with higher temperature solder. Is that correct? If so, should I go for 179C or 188C?

 

Thanks

 

Andy

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

Can I ask you a question about which solder to buy? With all my lockdown modelling, I’ve nearly run out of mid temperature solder for brass kits. Rather than buying the normal small packs for £5 or so which don’t last long, I thought I’d buy a big 500gm reel like the one you have. However, I’m not sure which temperature to buy for general purpose brass kit construction. You seem to be able to buy 145C, 179C and 188C solder. I believe 145C is for adding small detail once the main pieces have been soldered together with higher temperature solder. Is that correct? If so, should I go for 179C or 188C?

 

Thanks

 

Andy

Like the big reel I used to have, Andy! 

 

It's now all gone, though I have smaller packs. 

 

I use 145 degree solder for all of my brass/nickel silver constructions. I've tried the higher melting point solders, but none works as well for me. I suppose 179 degree solder might be better for load-bearing structures such as frames, but I find 145 degree perfectly adequate.

 

The trick is a hot iron (over 300 degrees dependent on the sizes of metal), lashings of phosphoric acid flux (no weaker than 12%), with everything very clean. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Mark C]

Thanks Tony

 

43157 certainly captures the look of the class.

 

The Crownline kit goes together extremely well: the fit of parts is excellent, which could have been tricky for example on the tender where all sorts of sloping panels and angled joints are required, or with the boiler unit with the frames and cab.

 

For me the resin smokebox/boiler/firebox was a plus - the casting is flawless - although extra care is required to prepare for painting.   In the box I found a pack of Alan Gibson's wheels for the pony truck so the intent was there, I think the latter was awaiting some form of wire springing.

 

The D16 looks superb - I'm going to check out the smokebox numberplate route as there are a J6 (SEF) and two 4Fs (Airfix/Comet) up next....

 

Thanks again,

Mark 

 

[Tony Wright]

30 minutes ago, Mark C said:

Thanks Tony

 

43157 certainly captures the look of the class.

 

The Crownline kit goes together extremely well: the fit of parts is excellent, which could have been tricky for example on the tender where all sorts of sloping panels and angled joints are required, or with the boiler unit with the frames and cab.

 

For me the resin smokebox/boiler/firebox was a plus - the casting is flawless - although extra care is required to prepare for painting.   In the box I found a pack of Alan Gibson's wheels for the pony truck so the intent was there, I think the latter was awaiting some form of wire springing.

 

The D16 looks superb - I'm going to check out the smokebox numberplate route as there are a J6 (SEF) and two 4Fs (Airfix/Comet) up next....

 

Thanks again,

Mark 

 

Thanks Mark,

 

Ian's 'plates are really excellent.

 

Obviously, care has to be taken in cutting them out and in blackening the then-exposed edges. It's wise to test a black felt tip pen on some scrap paper edges first, because some can 'bleed', ruining the number. 

 

Another thing to be careful of is subsequent dry-brush weathering, particularly with enamels. The paint can spoil the numbers if too much is applied, and thinning causes the numbers to go fuzzy. Airbrush-weathering presents no problems. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[MJI]

With the weather improvement I have restarted my spraying. and with deliveries from Shawplan, detailing.

 

One thing I do have to say.

 

As I do not get on with ruling pens ( I have tried - had to strip and respray) transfer time.

 

What a pain trying to get that white lining straight.

 

People think blue grey is simple but, curved at the ends, lots of numbers and such and the white going wavy is very obvious.

 

And I am not swapping my fleet of over 20 Airfix for newer vehicles, it costs too much and they would still need modifying.

[The Fatadder]

Hi Tony

 

Inspired by your previously published description of your coupling method (In BRM Spring 17) and have set about improving the couplings on the completed coaches for Brent.  

 

All seems to be fairly straight forward on a RTR or RTR based coach where the buffer beam and chassis are one piece (as per the Thompson coaches in the article).  But what do you do with something like a BSL coach where the buffer beam is attached to the end (and the chassis slots in behind it)?  

 

I am trying to work out how I would attach the loop / wire to the underside of the floor (when the floor needs to remove).   My current thought was tending towards bolting the PCB strip to the ends (or sticking it with a glue that's easily broken) so that it can be removed if you need to get inside the coach in the future.  But I would be interested to hear what you have done in a similar situation. 

 

thanks 

Rich 

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Hi Tony

 

Inspired by your previously published description of your coupling method (In BRM Spring 17) and have set about improving the couplings on the completed coaches for Brent.  

 

All seems to be fairly straight forward on a RTR or RTR based coach where the buffer beam and chassis are one piece (as per the Thompson coaches in the article).  But what do you do with something like a BSL coach where the buffer beam is attached to the end (and the chassis slots in behind it)?  

 

I am trying to work out how I would attach the loop / wire to the underside of the floor (when the floor needs to remove).   My current thought was tending towards bolting the PCB strip to the ends (or sticking it with a glue that's easily broken) so that it can be removed if you need to get inside the coach in the future.  But I would be interested to hear what you have done in a similar situation. 

 

thanks 

Rich 

Good evening Rich,

 

'But what do you do with something like a BSL coach where the buffer beam is attached to the end (and the chassis slots in behind it)?'

 

Drill one hole in the cast metal headstock at one end (for the hook) and two at the other end (for the goalpost), tin the ends of the .45mm brass or nickel silver wires and solder them on to the headstocks from the rear. Then lop off the protruding ends and file them flush.  

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Clem]

On 25/04/2020 at 15:29, Tony Wright said:

I do, though I've been a git in my formative years as well!

Commonly known as a pre-git (not to be confused with the lesser brained variety, the 'eegit' - with a soft 'g')

[Tony Wright]

The next loco project is on the way......................

 

 

An L&Y 0-6-0 being built from an MPD kit in EM; a commission for Geoff Haynes.

 

I've also started another commission - a J6 in OO. 

 

Progress reports as and when..........................

 

 

[Daniel W]

Looks like an A Class/ Class 27? I don't think i've ever seen one of these completed, so i'm interested to see how it compares to the Craftsman one.

[Jesse Sim]

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

The next loco project is on the way......................

 

 

An L&Y 0-6-0 being built from an MPD kit in EM; a commission for Geoff Haynes.

 

I've also started another commission - a J6 in OO. 

 

Progress reports as and when..........................

 

 

Well I’m going to hold of on my J6 till you finish the J6 commission otherwise it will leave mine for dead...

[DougN]

Come on Jesse, take the challenge, you can do it! The Padawan can become a Master!  

 

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, Daniel W said:

Looks like an A Class/ Class 27? I don't think i've ever seen one of these completed, so i'm interested to see how it compares to the Craftsman one.

Good morning Daniel,

 

It's described as an Aspinall Class 27 (LMS/BR 3F).

 

It's an interesting kit (of some age?); there are no instructions with it (not that that matters) and the boiler is a piece of turned/milled brass tube of some thickness. Plotting positions for handrail pillars will be fun, and actually drilling through it even more so. Why the positions for the boiler bands are turned inwards, I don't know.

 

My brief is to erect the frames and build the loco/tender bodywork. Friction-fit drivers are supplied, but I'll have nothing to do with those, leaving the fiddling around to Geoff. I've made-up the little gear-mount, of course, which runs exceptionally smoothly (luck, and experience?). 

 

Has anyone else made MPD loco kits? If so, may we see, please?

 

The Nu-Cast/SEF J6 will be simpler. That's in OO, got 'proper' drivers and I've already made several.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

[dibateg]

That brass tube boiler looks interesting - you'll need to get some heat in to that to get it to take solder......

 

What's your plan Tony?

 

Regards

Tony

[Tony Wright]

Well,

 

Little Bytham's first appearance at a show seemed to go down well.

 

May I please thank Andy and all his team for putting on such a splendid virtual event yesterday? 

 

I wasn't up late on Saturday night getting things ready, didn't have to put oodles of locos/stock into boxes, empty them, put them on the track and then have a thorough test (after not spending hours erecting the layout!). I didn't have to bounce around in a van heading for the SW for no hours, and didn't get back late last night, only to not unload a 32' x 12' trainset! 

 

It was all great fun, however, so well done to all participants...... 

[Tony Wright]

4 minutes ago, dibateg said:

That brass tube boiler looks interesting - you'll need to get some heat in to that to get it to take solder......

 

What's your plan Tony?

 

Regards

Tony

'What's your plan Tony?'

 

Plan? That sounds like foresight; something I'm not too good at. 

 

A (very) big iron (75W), 145 solder, gallons of flux, asbestos fingers and a swear box the size of a coffin! That might work........

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[D-A-T]

Maybe the turned recesses are to accept some over thickness boiler bands soldered into them? Anything long and thin in the etchings?

[cctransuk]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Has anyone else made MPD loco kits? If so, may we see, please?

 

Tony,

 

Yes, I built an MPD Midland 3F a couple or so years ago, and posted the build on RMweb - though I can't find the thread at the moment.

 

The grooves in the boiler are indeed intended for brass boiler band, but beware - on the 3F they were in the wrong place! I ended up filling the grooves with plastic strip; sanding it down ; and fitting correctly located bands from adhesive tape.

 

The splashers were apparently intended for the undersized wheels of a proprietory chassis - I had to replace them to accommodate correctly sized / spaced wheels. (I surmised that the kit had been designed to fit an RTR chassis, and had then been upgraded with an etched chassis).

 

Take nothing for granted - check wheelbase, axle positioning, ...... everything!

 

Good luck,

John Isherwood.

Edited April 27, 2020 by cctransuk