Wright writes.....

[Headstock]

10 hours ago, jrg1 said:

The perfect example of why Wright Writes is up to 2143 pages.  A superb rendition of one of the most difficult finishes to achieve.  Please tell us about the underframe.

 

Good morning JRG1,

 

The underframe? If referring to the painting, it's just black, very complicated, honest. 

 

I suspect it is the construction that you are interested in. The body is a Bill Bedford 6 compartment BTK, mounted on the brake ended turnbuckle option of the MJT underframes. The bogies are Hornby 8' 6'' standard type. I'm not a fan of the Hornby gangway stock but the bogies are expellant. I have pretty much standardised on them for LNER stock, with the exception of Fox or other Gresley types if they are required.

Edited December 21, 2020 by Headstock
add info, brake ended.

[MJI]

Mine is Bill Bedford sides and MJT bogies.

[MarkC]

1 hour ago, gr.king said:

 

And didn't Slaters or Ratio once (1980-ish?) market a couple of kits for 4mm scale Midland Railway Johnson locos with plastic frames plus metal working parts? Whether they were any good, and/or whether the loco modellers of the time, used only to metal handling methods and wedded to the idea that "metal is essential", knew how to make proper use of the kits is another set of questions.

It was Ratio - a 2-4-0 and a 4-4-0.

 

Many tried, but few succeeded in getting them to run with the supplied components. Fortunately Perseverance then produced 'traditional' etched chassis kits to suit the 4-4-0 (not sure about the 2-4-0), which were very good.

 

Mark

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, gr.king said:

Hello Clive,

 

Reverting to this, but considering the second point, I'm fairly sure that somebody, somewhere, just a few years ago had a go at producing a one piece, detailed set of loco frames as a 3D print. I don't know whether they were meant for use, or just as an illustration of the possibility. It may all depend on the printing technique that is used, I know there are several and I don't understand them all, but having seen other 3D printed items that are not exactly the shape they were meant to be because they have shrunk / warped / twisted in places I'm currently a little wary of the idea of 3D printed frames. That is not to say that I'll have a lasting distrust of the idea. That would be akin to being one of those "old guard" who regards anything made in plastic as not being a "proper", serious, accurate, robust, durable model.

 

Also, I do clearly remember feeling vindicated about thirty years ago, around the time I'd built an O4 / ROD body in plastic, when I read in one of R.D.A. Johnston's writings that he had built a tank engine body in plasticard some years previously and had then quite deliberately left it out in the summer heat and winter cold of the greenhouse, despite which it was still straight and true. It's only in more recent years that I've felt adventurous and competent enough to try plastic chassis frames too though.

 

And didn't Slaters or Ratio once (1980-ish?) market a couple of kits for 4mm scale Midland Railway Johnson locos with plastic frames plus metal working parts? Whether they were any good, and/or whether the loco modellers of the time, used only to metal handling methods and wedded to the idea that "metal is essential", knew how to make proper use of the kits is another set of questions.

 

I have a vague recollection of articles in the press "back in the day" that included motorising the Airfix or Kitmaster locos using the plastic frames supplied, suitable bushed.

 

One of the locos on Buckingham, now around 60 years old, has a plastic body, which hasn't shown any time related problems and all the carriages and wagons that were built after plastic sheet was introduced use that material.

 

Some are a little bit brittle now where the plastic is very small section, like window pillars but that may be down to the use of a household cleaner called "Thawpit" as a solvent!

 

I did try to make a plastic set of loco frames but it was long before I got a proper pillar drill and I found that accurate drilling by hand was very difficult as the drill wandered off its mark more easily in plastic than metal. After a couple of attempts I gave up and made some metal ones but that was more down to my lack of skill and/or the right tools rather than the material.

 

Mine was going to be a 40 thou U channel with the centre filled with lead, to get the weight in the best place, low down between the wheels.

 

So I don't throw my hands up in horror at all. 

[rowanj]

Re Scalelink wheels. I'm currently trying to resuscitate a chassis failure with as many parts from the spares box as possible. Included in the project is the use of those wheels. I have used them before, and found them satisfactory, though there are pros and cons. 

 

Pros- they are readily available, they fit Romford axles. Romford crankpins fit, they fit squarely on the axles, are in gauge in OO, service from Scalelink is excellent, and they take Paypal, for those who like it.

 

Cons - the wheels are generic, so no use to those who need a precise match of size/no of spokes/throw for a particular loco. Plastic inserts mean soldering crankpins or valve gear means getting the iron in and out pretty quickly, or using the "super" Markits versions. They are all "live", so a mod is needed to get a live chassis -Scalelink supply an etch.

 

You can certainly take them off and on the axles a good few times without a problem, but, as in any case where plastic meets metal, doing it too often will cause a loss of grip on the axle.

 

Not really a con, but the wheels are obviously lighter than Markits, in an area where weight is useful, And a set of, say 24mm plus axle is c, £10.50, less than Markits, but more than Gibson's.

 

So you pays your money.... All things being equal, I'd use Markits, but, for my purposes, Scalelink wheels are fine.

 

Incidentally, every order from Scalelink contains a reference to the owner's intention to retire, so we may be losing another invaluable source of spares,

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, Woodcock29 said:

So what have I built in 2020. For the first time ever I've actually tackled virtually all aspects of railway modeling within a 12 month period.

 

 At the beginning of the year I built a Nucast D2 and continued my learning process on lining with bow pen and Bob Moore pen.

 

Followed by a an ex GN Howlden triplet from D&S 6 wheelers

 

 

Then two of Bill Bedford's Mousa resin Howlden 6 wheelers

 

 

 

Then two of Bill's resin GN wagons

 

Then I built/upgraded a range of wagons to run on my mate Gavin's layout Spirsby - I won't give all the details but here's a selection.  

 

 

 

Then I reworked a Hornby Q6 into a version with a Dia 50 boiler to suit my pre-war period.

Then it was time to learn how to build MSE GN somersault signals for Spirsby plus a few for my layout.  The triple bracket and 3 single posts are installed on Spirsby but we still need to fit the mechanical linkages to operate them. I have one operational single home signal on my layout now and two brackets under construction - one with wooden post and dolls. 

Just this last weekend I've finally finished the signal box for Spirsby - my first scratchbuilt building. From a variety of materials - Volmer N Gauge English bond brook card sheet (yes N Gauge as its the correct size for 4mm scale bricks), Evergreen strip, Peco roof slates, stairs from the scrap box, Wills and Springside interior fittings. This is viewed temporarily sitting on my layout, behind which can be seen some recent scenic additions (can you believe that St Enodoc!). The roof section is yet to be finally glued onto the signal box, hence the slight visible gap above the windows. Its based on the ex GN box at Authorpe on the East Lincolnshire line.

In the previous month I laid some additional track on my layout to change the arrangements for access to the gas works (still to be built) and in the process built  a simple new panel for those sidings that fits under a baseboard edge to stay clear of an operating area.

I've also repaired a number of locos for friends - mostly split gears!

Regards to Tony and all contributors for Christmas and a better 2021.

Andrew

A fantastic selection.

 

All the very best,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Beechnut said:

Morning Tony

 

That looks just right, I wonder if it knows what it’s in for, on Retford!

I’ll get the Romford wheelsets over to you, if it’s Royal Mail it will be in the new year. If I can get my sister to drop them off in LB I will.

 

Regards

 

Brendan

Good morning Brendan,

 

Many thanks.

 

How she'll perform on Retford we'll have to see, though she runs sweetly (admittedly under no load) on my yard of EM track.

 

At first glance, looking at the following pictures, you might think she's running on the 'top' section of Little Bytham.................

 

 

 

By a little bit of 'propping' and Photoshop jiggery-pokery, 43037 is now to 'OO Gauge'; at least as far as these pictures go. 

 

A splendid 'layout loco', I think. Next time I take its picture, it'll be where it's been made for................ In 1994, could you have predicted this?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

52 minutes ago, MarkC said:

It was Ratio - a 2-4-0 and a 4-4-0.

 

Many tried, but few succeeded in getting them to run with the supplied components. Fortunately Perseverance then produced 'traditional' etched chassis kits to suit the 4-4-0 (not sure about the 2-4-0), which were very good.

 

Mark

I had one of the 2-4-0s through my hands some little time ago. 'Could it be made to work?' was the plaintive question. 'Not by me!', was my answer.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

46 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

I have a vague recollection of articles in the press "back in the day" that included motorising the Airfix or Kitmaster locos using the plastic frames supplied, suitable bushed.

 

One of the locos on Buckingham, now around 60 years old, has a plastic body, which hasn't shown any time related problems and all the carriages and wagons that were built after plastic sheet was introduced use that material.

 

Some are a little bit brittle now where the plastic is very small section, like window pillars but that may be down to the use of a household cleaner called "Thawpit" as a solvent!

 

I did try to make a plastic set of loco frames but it was long before I got a proper pillar drill and I found that accurate drilling by hand was very difficult as the drill wandered off its mark more easily in plastic than metal. After a couple of attempts I gave up and made some metal ones but that was more down to my lack of skill and/or the right tools rather than the material.

 

Mine was going to be a 40 thou U channel with the centre filled with lead, to get the weight in the best place, low down between the wheels.

 

So I don't throw my hands up in horror at all. 

Good afternoon, Tony,

 

'I have a vague recollection of articles in the press "back in the day" that included motorising the Airfix or Kitmaster locos using the plastic frames supplied, suitable bushed.'

 

'Perfecta' kits, I think they were called. I tried one on a Kitmaster 'Pug'; and failed!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[jrg1]

28 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon, Tony,

 

'I have a vague recollection of articles in the press "back in the day" that included motorising the Airfix or Kitmaster locos using the plastic frames supplied, suitable bushed.'

 

'Perfecta' kits, I think they were called. I tried one on a Kitmaster 'Pug'; and failed!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Unfortunately, there was no provision for replacing the plastic coupling rod pins or valve gear-not a good idea on a working locomotive.

There was also the "Simplas" motorising option for the Kitmaster Pug.  This was a W/M block for the chassis, which the motor sat on, sandwiched between the kit frames.  Brass axle bearings and wheels were supplied.  I am not sure whether these were produced by EAMES.

Never got mine to work properly either.

[t-b-g]

33 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon, Tony,

 

'I have a vague recollection of articles in the press "back in the day" that included motorising the Airfix or Kitmaster locos using the plastic frames supplied, suitable bushed.'

 

'Perfecta' kits, I think they were called. I tried one on a Kitmaster 'Pug'; and failed!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

I do remember those but the articles I was thinking of were more "How I did it" articles by modellers. One or two made new frames, often from half inch brass channel but there were one or two who did their own thing and fitted bushes, new wheels, pick ups and a motor.

 

Again, it is a long time since I saw them but I remember the Standard 2-6-0 and the GWR Prairie being two that used the original frames and a Ciry of Truro having new brass channel ones made.

 

I have a recollection of a system that used the original wheels with new metal treads pushed on, still using the plastic flanges. Was that the "Perfecta" kit or am I thinking of something else?

[Barry Ten]

1 hour ago, rowanj said:

Re Scalelink wheels. I'm currently trying to resuscitate a chassis failure with as many parts from the spares box as possible. Included in the project is the use of those wheels. I have used them before, and found them satisfactory, though there are pros and cons. 

 

Pros- they are readily available, they fit Romford axles. Romford crankpins fit, they fit squarely on the axles, are in gauge in OO, service from Scalelink is excellent, and they take Paypal, for those who like it.

 

Cons - the wheels are generic, so no use to those who need a precise match of size/no of spokes/throw for a particular loco. Plastic inserts mean soldering crankpins or valve gear means getting the iron in and out pretty quickly, or using the "super" Markits versions.

 

 

 

 

Where they fell down for me is when I tried to unsolder a crank pin washer, after I decided I hadn't opened out the hole in the rod enough. I just couldn't do it quickly enough not to have the wheel turning to a blobby mess.

[thegreenhowards]

Today, I'll move onto locos for the year. Most of my locos come from eBay and just take some finishing/ detailing/ repairing from me, but I'll start with the ones I've built from unstarted kits. Firstly, my Klondike Atlantic. This is probably my proudest achievement of the year (despite the weaknesses of the kit of which I was blissfully unaware until I posted it on here). All that lining took ages!

 

You might ask what I'm building a GNR liveried loco for when I have a 1950s layout. Well it will be paired with this loco (pure RTR) and run with the Gresley steel 5 set featured yesterday in a recreation of some of the service trains the pair worked around the time of the Plant Centenarian Railtour in 1953.

 

 

Here is a second completed kit, this time mounted on a RTR chassis. The combination of white metal body for weight and smooth Hornby mechanism (smoother than I could manage) means it will pull anything asked of it.

 

There is one other kit I built this year, but this one was much more complicated and I rather gave up on getting it to run smoothly in the Summer when the weather improved and it was too hot to go to my workbench in the loft. A New Year's resolution will be to finish it off. Lovely kit but probably slightly beyond my patience levels.

 

Not quite a start from scratch kit, but still a lot of work - a Greame King resin A2/3 conversion kit for a Bachmann A2. I thought I'd better get this built before Hornby render it run of the mill!

I also 'commissioned' a few eBay kit purchases. This can mean as little as putting a chip in - often not easy on a metal kit built loco, but in some cases meant adding lots of detail or changing chimneys/ domes etc. Here are a selection.

 

DJH A1, Renumbered and roller bearings added. Sorted out pick ups to get smooth running.

 

BR Standard 5, 73157. DJH/ GB1 Mashima motor. Bought as a 'display case only' model. Always be wary of these as it means they haven't been properly tested! The valve gear fell to bits and worm came off the motor as soon as I tried to use it! I fixed that, renumbered it to a KX example and added the excellent Modelmaster tender plates.

 

A3, 60108, DJH with GB1 Motor/ gearbox. Nice runner but needed additional pickups to get it over my insulfrog diamond crossing. Needed much of the front end rebuilt including chimney (it had a single with smoke deflectors!), dome, buffer beam, drain cocks, front steps etc.

 

V2, 60869. Another one with collapsed valve gear - this time advertised as such. I fixed it and added lamps, drain cocks, lamps etc.

 

60052. DJH/ Portescap - very smooth running. Needed little ore than chip, coal and lamps.

 

I'm sorry if some of these have been featured on Wright Writes before - I can't remember which and it's too many pages to search! More details of these locos are on my workbench thread, Coulsdon Works. 

 

Andy

[Tony Wright]

14 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Today, I'll move onto locos for the year. Most of my locos come from eBay and just take some finishing/ detailing/ repairing from me, but I'll start with the ones I've built from unstarted kits. Firstly, my Klondike Atlantic. This is probably my proudest achievement of the year (despite the weaknesses of the kit of which I was blissfully unaware until I posted it on here). All that lining took ages!

 

You might ask what I'm building a GNR liveried loco for when I have a 1950s layout. Well it will be paired with this loco (pure RTR) and run with the Gresley steel 5 set featured yesterday in a recreation of some of the service trains the pair worked around the time of the Plant Centenarian Railtour in 1953.

 

 

Here is a second completed kit, this time mounted on a RTR chassis. The combination of white metal body for weight and smooth Hornby mechanism (smoother than I could manage) means it will pull anything asked of it.

 

There is one other kit I built this year, but this one was much more complicated and I rather gave up on getting it to run smoothly in the Summer when the weather improved and it was too hot to go to my workbench in the loft. A New Year's resolution will be to finish it off. Lovely kit but probably slightly beyond my patience levels.

 

Not quite a start from scratch kit, but still a lot of work - a Greame King resin A2/3 conversion kit for a Bachmann A2. I thought I'd better get this built before Hornby render it run of the mill!

I also 'commissioned' a few eBay kit purchases. This can mean as little as putting a chip in - often not easy on a metal kit built loco, but in some cases meant adding lots of detail or changing chimneys/ domes etc. Here are a selection.

 

DJH A1, Renumbered and roller bearings added. Sorted out pick ups to get smooth running.

 

BR Standard 5, 73157. DJH/ GB1 Mashima motor. Bought as a 'display case only' model. Always be wary of these as it means they haven't been properly tested! The valve gear fell to bits and worm came off the motor as soon as I tried to use it! I fixed that, renumbered it to a KX example and added the excellent Modelmaster tender plates.

 

A3, 60108, DJH with GB1 Motor/ gearbox. Nice runner but needed additional pickups to get it over my insulfrog diamond crossing. Needed much of the front end rebuilt including chimney (it had a single with smoke deflectors!), dome, buffer beam, drain cocks, front steps etc.

 

V2, 60869. Another one with collapsed valve gear - this time advertised as such. I fixed it and added lamps, drain cocks, lamps etc.

 

60052. DJH/ Portescap - very smooth running. Needed little ore than chip, coal and lamps.

 

I'm sorry if some of these have been featured on Wright Writes before - I can't remember which and it's too many pages to search! More details of these locos are on my workbench thread, Coulsdon Works. 

 

Andy

An interesting selection, Andy,

 

But never apologise for putting what you've done on here. 

 

Just a few comments, if I may. In time it might be worth substituting a few pony/bogie wheels, moving the smoke deflectors forward on GAY CRUSADER (their front edge should be level with the drop in the footplate)and altering the position of PRINCE PALETINE's front numberplate - it should not be fixed to the top hingestrap in its single chimney days, but be above the crossrail. Minor points, but worth considering? 

 

SUN CASTLE looks splendid - just as I remember seeing her.

 

I assume many of these were bargains via ebay?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[thegreenhowards]

32 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

An interesting selection, Andy,

 

But never apologise for putting what you've done on here. 

 

Just a few comments, if I may. In time it might be worth substituting a few pony/bogie wheels, moving the smoke deflectors forward on GAY CRUSADER (their front edge should be level with the drop in the footplate)and altering the position of PRINCE PALETINE's front numberplate - it should not be fixed to the top hingestrap in its single chimney days, but be above the crossrail. Minor points, but worth considering? 

 

SUN CASTLE looks splendid - just as I remember seeing her.

 

I assume many of these were bargains via ebay?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks Tony,

 

I knew I’d get some ‘loco picking’ homework if I posted on here! I will attend to those in due course.

 

Yes, the eBay locos (60052, 60108, 60154, 60869, 73157) cost between £70 & £120 each built from eBay - only Prince Palantine was over £100. The DJH C2 cost £75 as a mint kit. I had to add wheels and motor to that though. Definitely the most cost effective way of acquiring kit built locos. Obviously you lost some of the fun of building them, but I rather enjoy fettling them. It’s less daunting than starting from scratch and it speeds up the process dramatically.

 

Andy

 

 

[60027Merlin]

After completing the DJH A2/2 I was in a position to finish off their A2/3 kit. I built both in stages at the same time, building the chassis for one, then doing the other one followed by each tender then each body. I am undecided as to whether that was the better option as opposed to completing one then starting on the other. Thankfully both now completed before the end of the year, a bit late, as the target date was the end of October! At least it is before the locos due from Hornby appear!

 

Now it is the painting etc, then building a few Parkside wagons which will be a refreshing change from these two pacifics.

 

On the 1st. December

 

 

On 19th December

 

[Beechnut]

3 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Brendan,

 

Many thanks.

 

How she'll perform on Retford we'll have to see, though she runs sweetly (admittedly under no load) on my yard of EM track.

 

At first glance, looking at the following pictures, you might think she's running on the 'top' section of Little Bytham.................

 

 

 

By a little bit of 'propping' and Photoshop jiggery-pokery, 43037 is now to 'OO Gauge'; at least as far as these pictures go. 

 

A splendid 'layout loco', I think. Next time I take its picture, it'll be where it's been made for................ In 1994, could you have predicted this?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

There’s so many things I couldn’t have predicted in 1994. No Little Bytham then but probably Stoke Summit which I saw many times at various shows. I do remember seeing an embryonic Retford at ExpoEM North, there wasn’t a lot else at the show as it took up most of the hall. That must have been late nineties or even early 2000’s.

I’m just glad it’s going to be used and it’s now got some history. Just imagine in fifteen or so years time someone trying to piece it all together when it turns up somewhere on the net.

Must say it does look the business on the joint line.

 

Regards

 

Brendan

[CF MRC]

Clean but in use. 

Details in the 2mm section. 
 

Tim

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, 60027Merlin said:

After completing the DJH A2/2 I was in a position to finish off their A2/3 kit. I built both in stages at the same time, building the chassis for one, then doing the other one followed by each tender then each body. I am undecided as to whether that was the better option as opposed to completing one then starting on the other. Thankfully both now completed before the end of the year, a bit late, as the target date was the end of October! At least it is before the locos due from Hornby appear!

 

Now it is the painting etc, then building a few Parkside wagons which will be a refreshing change from these two pacifics.

 

On the 1st. December

 

 

On 19th December

 

Lovely stuff, Eric,

 

I assume you have HONEYWAY (though this one has a lipped chimney, so it can't be 60519, anyway). One of the Tyneside-based A2/3s, then? WATLING STREET, the first to get a lipped chimney?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Barry O]

49 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

Clean but in use. 

Details in the 2mm section. 
 

Tim

A thing of great beauty!  And very well put together.

 

Baz

[30368]

4 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Today, I'll move onto locos for the year. Most of my locos come from eBay and just take some finishing/ detailing/ repairing from me, but I'll start with the ones I've built from unstarted kits.

 

I agree with Tony, no apologies necessary - some really good work and some good weathering. I do hope you can get the A5 tank working to your satisfaction, we have all struggled with some of our efforts, I know I have! Keep at it!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS Loco building taking second place to house moving/updating and then building my first layout so perhaps Andy you can offer some guidance to a novice on that? I am very pleased with Buxton though, friendly and very scenic if a bit nippy!

[landscapes]

2 hours ago, 60027Merlin said:

After completing the DJH A2/2 I was in a position to finish off their A2/3 kit. I built both in stages at the same time, building the chassis for one, then doing the other one followed by each tender then each body. I am undecided as to whether that was the better option as opposed to completing one then starting on the other. Thankfully both now completed before the end of the year, a bit late, as the target date was the end of October! At least it is before the locos due from Hornby appear!

 

Now it is the painting etc, then building a few Parkside wagons which will be a refreshing change from these two pacifics.

 

On the 1st. December

 

 

On 19th December

 

Superb

 

Regards

 

David

[60027Merlin]

56 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Lovely stuff, Eric,

 

I assume you have HONEYWAY (though this one has a lipped chimney, so it can't be 60519, anyway). One of the Tyneside-based A2/3s, then? WATLING STREET, the first to get a lipped chimney?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Tony,

 

This DJH one is to be Ocean Swell which was a regular visitor to Haymarket. I remember seeing it on a good number of occasions and recall it passing Saughton  Junction heading into town from Glasgow Queen Street on a quick out and back Haymarket "borrowed" turn which happened now and again. I have a photo of it at Haymarket in 1958 and copied the detail from this which indicated that no AWS was fitted then but which it received later.

 

Honeyway is now well into its third decade and still going strong round the layout and of course it was never fitted with AWS. However when the Hornby model appears it will be changed to a Gateshead or Heaton resident which had the AWS. Good excuse to buy one!

 

Eric

 

[thegreenhowards]

1 hour ago, 30368 said:

 

I agree with Tony, no apologies necessary - some really good work and some good weathering. I do hope you can get the A5 tank working to your satisfaction, we have all struggled with some of our efforts, I know I have! Keep at it!

 

Kind regards,

 

Richard B

 

PS Loco building taking second place to house moving/updating and then building my first layout so perhaps Andy you can offer some guidance to a novice on that? I am very pleased with Buxton though, friendly and very scenic if a bit nippy!

Compared with many on here I’m a novice myself. I only got back into the hobby in 2012, so I’ve been a a steep learning curve and trying to make up for lost time. 
 

My view on layout building is to get something running ASAP. You will learn a lot from that process and see what you like and what you don’t. Some people spend a lifetime planning and never actually build anything. My process tend to result in two steps forward and one step back but that’s how I learn and I enjoy the building process. Gresley junction started on an 8’ x 4’ board and has grown from there. I don’t think much If anything of the original is left, but each rebuild has kept some of the previous attempt and built on that.

 

Andy

[LNER4479]

3 hours ago, CF MRC said:

Clean but in use. 

Details in the 2mm section. 
 

Tim

There's a nice early Xmas pressie if ever I saw one. Straight off to the 2mm section now ... 

Edited December 21, 2020 by LNER4479