RMweb Premium Izzy Posted December 12, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 12, 2015 I've not tried the 5BEL but I have used Arnold French outline items. They just about cope given the chairs holding the rail above the sleepers. That said, I thought they were also coping with Easitrack FB until I stuck some down, at which point the rigidity kicked in and the bumping noise told me I was wrong. I haven't stuck any FiNetrax down to know whether the same thing would happen. This is why I've decided to go with soldered/copperclad track now. Ian I think this is one reason why Peco went with visible code 55 height rail, it allows more leeway with flange depth. Plus of course their clever design strength wise, double foot code 80 with the lower foot buried in the sleeper base, means the rail clips can be minimum size to aid clearance since they are only cosmetic. This all falls down looks wise when it comes to the point work, where the full depth of the code 80 is revealed with the blades. Means cheaper production costs of course, same blades with both code 80 and code 55 track. Code 40 may be the correct size for 2mm/N but with the much deeper flanges compared to other scales - the average 0.5mm depth on most new stock these days is the same as 4mm Romfords - problems with clearance are bound to occur, another area of concern being tie-bars, where there is only 0.5mm clearance (since code 40 is roughly 1mm deep) with which to attach them. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 British Finescale make finetrax. Yes I know that... I've not tried the 5BEL but I have used Arnold French outline items. They just about cope given the chairs holding the rail above the sleepers. That said, I thought they were also coping with Easitrack FB until I stuck some down, at which point the rigidity kicked in and the bumping noise told me I was wrong. I haven't stuck any FiNetrax down to know whether the same thing would happen. This is why I've decided to go with soldered/copperclad track now. Ian Thanks, I really wanted to use fiNetraX stuff.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanStock Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 (edited) Well you still have the option of turning the flanges down. I tried doing do using a file while turning the wheel set at low speed in a variable-speed battery hand drill. Crude, but it did take a small amount off. Not enough for the FB but maybe good for the bullhead, where there isn't also that issue of the extra .42mm lateral slop to contend with. I may be trying the bullhead for sidings yet - so if you can hold on, I'll stick a trial length down in the next day or two and see what happens. Not sure whether the 2mm Assoc. will do wheel re-profiling to anything other than full 2mm standards... What is saddening is that even the latest release CC72000 from Arnold still seems to have enormous flanges. Don't believe that all models are more refined on the continent! Edited December 12, 2015 by IanStock Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wherry Lines Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Yes I know that... Apologies. When I read your post, I inferred that you hadn't realised they were one and the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted December 12, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 12, 2015 What is saddening is that even the latest release CC72000 from Arnold still seems to have enormous flanges. Don't believe that all models are more refined on the continent! Hi there, To some extent the problem is one of our own making. For finer appearance we have tended to encourage our manufacturers to adopt NMRA RP25 standards when it comes to wheel profiles. These look better and work fine with Peco track and with the "proper" Code 55 and even Code 40 track used in the US by Atlas, Micro-Engineering et al. On the continent, they've stuck with NEM standards which, as far as I am aware, continue to specify either finescale or universal wheel standards. cheers Ben A. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGR Hooper! Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Apologies. When I read your post, I inferred that you hadn't realised they were one and the same. Not to worry mate...reading a post is always more prone to misunderstanding as compared to listening to a person say the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Pelham Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Evening All, For what it's worth, I was a beta tester for the original kits, which I found a pleasure to work with. Wayne is working on additional items (as previously mentioned on this thread) which have been advertised on his website for a while now. An additional point of note (with no pun intended) is that the turnouts can be built on a curve; I have assembled one on cutting away the material from the moulded base, leaving a small link to space the timbers, but leaving the material around the common crossing intact. I have a small trial layout I'm working on for trying out the fiNetraX products and scenic techniques before use on a larger layout, which I've been meaning to start a thread on; I'll try and get the thread started once I get back from the States. Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alibuchan Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 I have had no problem with some Peco 4 wheel vans, Dapol pannier or a CJM 92 bumping down the tracks on finetrax. Next to try is a union mills G2 then some Farish stuff but I'm not expecting any issues. I have 8 points to build for my layout will try and start that over Christmas. Alistair 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted December 13, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 13, 2015 Hi Alistair, Do you have a thread for your new layout build? cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bridgiesimon Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Ok guys, a quick question - I really like the finer look of this track but am concerned about making the track as I have not tried anything like this before and am not great with a soldering iron, how straight forward is it to get a good enough standard for trouble free running? I would aim to build a small 1 or 2 point shunting puzzle style of board as a trial before starting the next main layout obviously. Best wishes Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanStock Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Well as another beginner in the track-building business, it was easier than I expected. I have been modelling for forty years, but my only soldering experience was basic wiring, as I don't like doing the electrics. But making track is rather different. Having the right tools helps - a temperature controlled, fine tipped iron (from Maplin) makes all the difference, as does using solder paste or flux. I actually rather enjoy it. As for the FiNetrax kits, again not as difficult as expected - except for getting the crossing to lie flat once a wire is attached, and soldering the blades to the tie bar. At least that second problem seems to have been addressed in the mark 2 kits. Definitely easier to thread chairs and sleepers while they are still attached to the sprue. A magnifier helps a lot, too! I also think a bit of lateral thinking helps, when compared with using commercial track. For example, it's not so easy to attach a wire to code 40 track unobtrusively and in just the right place - then I came across the idea of fixing the wires to or through copper-clad sleepers, which makes a lot of sense and can partly be done retrospectively, once the track is down. The idea of running a pin through the board takes the idea a step further. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alibuchan Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Hi Alistair, Do you have a thread for your new layout build? cheers Ben A. No thread as yet but pictures taken ready for it. Struggling to do pictures on my iPad. Have to sort my laptop out first. Alistair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Walters Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I had an e-mail from Wayne today regarding my questions on his forum, and firstly I can comfirm that all is well with the company, he also apologised for not answering queries on his own forum, instead paying more attention to the threads on more popular forums. However this is what he has told me, it also clears up a few of the questions raised in this threadd: I only have experience with UK stock/models so I would not be able to advise much here. My perception is that Continental & Japanese stock seems ahead of the game compared to UK models, but this is only my personal observation from reading and not from hands on experience, I'm afraid. Regarding minimum radius, the restricts are the same of using standard peco - the restrictions are more with the stock you are running. The Switch Blades now come pre milled/filed with each kit, so the switch Blade filing jigs are now removed and no longer produced. I will soon be making pre milled switch blades available separately also. Postage is £6.50 for 1st class royal mail. Lead time is usually a week or so but I am trying to reduce this down, this month. The method of laying/joining track is the same as do the 2mm scale association – actually no rail joiners! Rail is simple butt up to the next length. Although I am researching the possibility of manufacturing tiny fish plates, Code 40 bullhead rail is probably too small for them, plus it would ruin the look. FiNetraX turnouts use prototypical geometry B6, B8 etc - Peco does not so it's hard to compare. Each turnout kit page has a downloadable template that can be printed at 100% scale. Yes the DCC Concepts point motors or any slow acting motor should be suitable. Servo operation is also another good option. Regarding fixing track to the baseboard, because fiNetraX timber bases and code 40 rail is so thin (to keep it somewhat to scale) means that they need a firm flat surface to adhere to, making sure that the turnout remains totally 'flat'. If a turnout is built, you will notice, because of the thinness, that the base my 'curl' a little and not be truly 'flat'. Again, this is because the components are so thin to keep to scale. I would not recommend a soft foam underlay as this would not ensure that the turnouts are laid flat, which is important for good reliable running. Fixing method is a personal preference, but I like to use thin double sided tape to fix to the baseboard, and then ballasting will give the final adhesion. I hope this helps anyone considering on investing in this system. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 3, 2016 Im a 2mm modeller however I have a length of easitrac set up as a test / running in road with a auto shuttle, on this the following unconverted n gauge models have run without issue prior to converting to 2mm Hornby 5 Belle Dapol Pannier Farsh 3f Jinty / 04 / 7f / 101 / 108 / 4CEP / 08 Various Kato/Tomex/Hobbyline chassis which only require b2b altered to get a "basic" 2mm chassis I would not anticipate any problems with N standard pointwork provided b2b where correct Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Martin Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 I had an e-mail from Wayne today regarding my questions on his forum, and firstly I can comfirm that all is well with the company, he also apologised for not answering queries on his own forum, instead paying more attention to the threads on more popular forums. However this is what he has told me, it also clears up a few of the questions raised in this threadd: ... I hope this helps anyone considering on investing in this system. Graham Thanks for that. I'm quite tempted by Finetrax and I may well invest in some plain track and a point for test purposes. I could probably justify bullhead rail and wood sleepers in a siding but I really need concrete sleepers and FB rail for my planned layout. If they made that I'd probably go "all in" Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
branchie Posted January 3, 2016 Share Posted January 3, 2016 (edited) Graham Thanks for that. I'm quite tempted by Finetrax and I may well invest in some plain track and a point for test purposes. I could probably justify bullhead rail and wood sleepers in a siding but I really need concrete sleepers and FB rail for my planned layout. If they made that I'd probably go "all in" Jim Apparently FB rail is planned for the future - see post 234 in this thread and follow the link to the n gauge forum (and look for post 778). Edited January 3, 2016 by branchie 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted January 3, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 3, 2016 Thanks for highlighting that link. News on there that Wayne has not put on his own website! Great news that the 1:8 diamond and 1:6 single slip are nearly ready to go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted January 4, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 4, 2016 Regarding the advice from Wayne, that this trackage needs a decent base to fix it to, I just wonder if the basic track construction method used by the late Peter Denny and some others might provide the solution here. Building all the track onto sub-bases, IIRC he used thin ply, the track being painted and ballasted before laying down as you would set track, after which all the joins were filled in/hidden with glue/ballast once wiring and testing had taken place. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Higgs Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Regarding the advice from Wayne, that this trackage needs a decent base to fix it to, I just wonder if the basic track construction method used by the late Peter Denny and some others might provide the solution here. Building all the track onto sub-bases, IIRC he used thin ply, the track being painted and ballasted before laying down as you would set track, after which all the joins were filled in/hidden with glue/ballast once wiring and testing had taken place. Izzy Also, I think it is worth observing that although a soft foam underlay such as Peco use is going to be absolutely useless, in my opinion the hard foam as sold by C&L for 4mm track would be firm enough to provide a flat base. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanStock Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I'm currently laying copper-clad code 40 and finding that artists' mounting board makes a good smooth base - can be cut for ballast shoulders etc. and can be bought coloured brown or grey which is helpful. Perhaps not as quiet as foam or cork though - it remains to be seen. Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wherry Lines Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Ian, I suppose you could mount it onto a cork bed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanStock Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Ian, I suppose you could mount it onto a cork bed? I guess so, Simon - but in which case why not just stick with the cork? The two together would be 4 or more mm thick. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wherry Lines Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 My thinking wad that you could construct the track on the card panels and mount the whole ensemble onto cork. It should give a little more strength to the track when constructing. I've found the sleepers to be a little brittle on my trial example. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanStock Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Yes I agree, I found them very fragile too. Those that I built that were then stored have not endured well, which is no criticism of the product - but it does mean that the track is probably single-use only. Those using it probably know that anyway. I built some turnouts and some Easitrack on Templot printouts away from the layout. The copper-clad turnouts supported the plain track rather better. But my new all-soldered track is being built straight onto the baseboards. I think that if/when I use FiNetrax again, I will stick things down immediately. Your idea sounds workable - just not sure whether two layers would be needed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas G Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 A new British Finescale/FiNetrax website has been launched - very professional and lots of interesting new products. The old website didn't give a very good impression, especially the dormant discussion forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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