fiNetrax

[Douglas G]

I see no reason why that would not be possible, but if you are doing this then why not just use the non peg chairs and glue them on?

 

Currently if you want to create a diamond using this method you are going to be hammered on the purchase of the chairs. You would need 20 sprues of them at £2.50 each. Most of these chairs would be wasted but you need the flange way parts. 

 

If you are a member of the 2mm soc and wanted to create a diamond with narrower flange ways you could use the easiTrack chairs. You still need the same number of sprues but they are old £2 per sprue.

Thanks for that information. However, I think you misunderstood something I said. I won't need a diamond crossing. I used the term "crossing" as this is what the precision milled frog was described on the US site.

 

It is two very long turnouts that I would need to produce.

 

It does sound from the N Gauge Forum that a diamond crossing is imminent in Finetrax.

 

Douglas

Edited January 30, 2014 by Douglas G

[Kris]

I was just using a diamond as an illustration. As prices stand at the moment for your point work you might find it cheaper to purchase a kit then only just the chairs from it. I suspect that you would have enough,though you might need more slide chairs. 

[2mm Andy]

I see no reason why that would not be possible, but if you are doing this then why not just use the non peg chairs and glue them on?

 

Currently if you want to create a diamond using this method you are going to be hammered on the purchase of the chairs. You would need 20 sprues of them at £2.50 each. Most of these chairs would be wasted but you need the flange way parts. 

 

If you are a member of the 2mm soc and wanted to create a diamond with narrower flange ways you could use the easiTrack chairs. You still need the same number of sprues but they are old £2 per sprue.

 

Ermmm - the price quoted for the Finetrax chair sprues is £2-50 for 12 sprues, not one. So 20 sprues would set you back £5 and you'd have a few spares. Similarly the 2mm Easitrac chair sprues are £2 for a pack of 12.

 

Andy

[Kris]

When I looked the other day this wasn't obvious Andy, but having looked back today it's apparent I missed that. I wonder if the info didn't load as there seems to be a lot more on the pages than I had seen before.

[2mm Andy]

I have to confess that I thought that there seemed to be more information on the web page this time than I remember seeing previously! Maybe Wayne has added some more info recently?

 

Andy

[MrSimon]

Hi

 

I'm thinking of giving fiNetrack a try for when I rebuild my layout, but had a few questions about it.

 

1) For plain track, do I just need to get some of the solvent or do i need the other tools too?

 

2) What's the best way to tackle baseboard joins?

 

3) In the absence of peco-style fishplates, whats the best way of electrically joining the track? And the best way to stop it kinking on curves?

 

I'm pretty sure I have other questions regarding point motors, but I aught to learn how to walk before I plan out running!

 

Cheers

 

Simon

Edited February 5, 2014 by MrSimon

[Kris]

I've tackled baseboard joints using 2mm association pcb sleeper sections. 

 

For curves staggering the joins works.

 

Electrically wiring every 500mm or so (every length of rail).

[Vanders]

1) For plain track, do I just need to get some of the solvent or do i need the other tools too?

 

2) What's the best way to tackle baseboard joins?

 

3) In the absence of peco-style fishplates, whats the best way of electrically joining the track? And the best way to stop it kinking on curves?

 

1. No solvent required. You can buy and use the "plain line assembly" jig as an aide, but even that isn't necasary: I've assembled 8 meters or so of plain line track without one.

 

2. What Kris said. You can also get copper clad board from SMP Scaleway if you're not a 2mm Society member.

 

3. Just add dropper to each length of track and wire them to a bus under the board. Curves shouldn't be an issue unless you're laying very tight curves with joins in them, and if so either i) don't! or ii) solder the rail to a copper clad board at the ends of each length.

Edited February 5, 2014 by Vanders

[MrSimon]

What's the best point motor to use on these?  I'm guessing they'd have to be ones with polarity changing switches, but I've only ever used the peco ones before - which I imagine to be too strong...

 

Cheers

 

Simon

[Douglas G]

What's the best point motor to use on these?  I'm guessing they'd have to be ones with polarity changing switches, but I've only ever used the peco ones before - which I imagine to be too strong...

 

Cheers

 

Simon

Funnily enough, I have just been wondering the same thing, so am very interested in the answer from those in the know.

I would imagine that over time the fast flick of a solenoid point motor such as the Seep or Peco ones could weaken the tiebar or even break it. There are also comments that Seep motor can be hard to set up in 2mm points. A slow action Tortoise point motor or similar, or perhaps servos or wire in tube, might be best?

 

Douglas

[ThaneofFife]

Possibly not the place for this but ive always wondered how you change the polarity at the frog if you operste via wire in tube?

[Vanders]

I wouldn't use a selenoid (like the Peco point motor) with one, as the tiebar would probably break from the stresses.

 

A slow action point motor, wire in tube or even a servo is a much better bet.

[Joseph_Pestell]

Wayne K has announced on another thread that the #6 diamond is now available.

[Steadfast]

Bearing in mind I know nothing about building my own track, I have an idea in my head about creating a small layout along the lines of an Ikea APA box at some point in the future.

So, two questions, is 'British Finescale' Wayne's website selling the kits direct? Second, there's a jig available in the shop for filing switch blades. Presumably this is the one area of construction that is likely to cause a problem if done without the jig?

 

jo

[Kris]

British Finescale is Wayne's website and is selling  the kits direct.

 

You can file the blades without a jig, the jig just makes it easier.

[hayfield]

I have just bought a kit (off Ebay) and whilst I am a competent builder of track in N to O gauge I think filing the switch blades is the last thing you should be concerned about. Folk on here moan about threading 4mm chairs. The biggest problem I can see after a quick look is in threading the chairs.

 

I have not read the instructions yet or opened the packet, I may have to buy one of those anglepoise magnifiers to build it though. 

[Douglas G]

I have just ordered a turnout kit and a length of plain track to have a look at from the British Finescale website and had to pay £6-50 for postage (courier would have been £9-50, I think).

 

It would be nice if it was possible to buy this track from the major exhibitions to save on postage, and to see the product in the flesh before committing to buying. Has anyone ever seen a stand for FiNetrax at exhibitions? I know that leaflets were being distributed at last years International N Gauge Show.

 

Douglas

[Izzy]

I have just bought a kit (off Ebay) and whilst I am a competent builder of track in N to O gauge I think filing the switch blades is the last thing you should be concerned about. Folk on here moan about threading 4mm chairs. The biggest problem I can see after a quick look is in threading the chairs.

 

I have not read the instructions yet or opened the packet, I may have to buy one of those anglepoise magnifiers to build it though. 

 

Could I suggest that an anglepoise lamp is a pretty essential piece of equipment to do work like this. With my eyesight not being as good as it used to be, and having worn glasses for a few years, I find I need one to do most detail/construction work in 2mm. The lamp I would recommend is that sold by Argos. They have a better/lower magnification level than many others, that allows you to see what you are doing at a range of different distances, and also wield tools under the lamp to do the work, such as a soldering iron etc. High magnification lamps seem good, but have to be so close to the work that you can see it in magnificent detail, but can't actually find the space/room under them to do anything.

 

Threading the chairs in 2mm is okay, and like in larger scales benefits from some slight chamfering of the foot of the rail. I have found it best to separate them from the sprue, lay them on the cutting mat, hold the points of some tweezers behind the rear face, and then push the rail in. Easier than trying to hold the chair in your fingers and push it on. I also of course push the chairs along with the tweezers.

 

I wouldn't use a selenoid (like the Peco point motor) with one, as the tiebar would probably break from the stresses.

 

A slow action point motor, wire in tube or even a servo is a much better bet.

 

I believe Wayne's points using a moving sleeper/tie-bar that has a centre hole ready to accept the wire actuators from the likes of Tortoise/Cobalt motors. The design looks strong enough to absorb the 'wallop' from using Peco/Seep solenoids but as you need something that will hold the point blades in the correct position, (preferably under a little bit of tension), those that do are preferable to these. The problem with the Tortoise/Cobalt's is their size. Not really a huge problem in the larger scales, but can be in 2mm, and especially with points in close proximity to one another. Servo's are a good alternative if you are comfortable with playing about with the electrics needed, and some commercial offerings seem rather expensive. I use them with a simple setup of a sprung wire actuator in a similar fashion to the Tortoise/Cobalt, with MERG servo boards for control. I can post a few shots if it would help anyone.

 

My latest little layout made from some leftovers/odds/track experiments (easitrac chairs on ply sleepers), uses simple mechanical actuation of both points and uncoupling magnets just using some wire/tube and DPDT slider switches, which many have used. This is a cheap/easy/flexible method. Again I can post some shots if it would be of assistance.

 

Izzy

[Kris]

I have just bought a kit (off Ebay) and whilst I am a competent builder of track in N to O gauge I think filing the switch blades is the last thing you should be concerned about. Folk on here moan about threading 4mm chairs. The biggest problem I can see after a quick look is in threading the chairs.

 

I have not read the instructions yet or opened the packet, I may have to buy one of those anglepoise magnifiers to build it though. 

Ah, so it was you who beat me to that one.

[Friar Tuck]

I have just bought a kit (off Ebay) and whilst I am a competent builder of track in N to O gauge I think filing the switch blades is the last thing you should be concerned about. Folk on here moan about threading 4mm chairs. The biggest problem I can see after a quick look is in threading the chairs.

 

I have not read the instructions yet or opened the packet, I may have to buy one of those anglepoise magnifiers to build it though. 

 

Filing a slight taper on the end of the rail makes a big difference. Also remember to get the bullhead the right way up - the thinner edge goes in the sleepers, the thicker part is the rail top.

[Steadfast]

Thanks for the replies to my earlier questions, certainly FiNetrax is food for thought on smaller layouts

 

jo

[Kris]

I have just ordered a turnout kit and a length of plain track to have a look at from the British Finescale website and had to pay £6-50 for postage (courier would have been £9-50, I think).

 

It would be nice if it was possible to buy this track from the major exhibitions to save on postage, and to see the product in the flesh before committing to buying. Has anyone ever seen a stand for FiNetrax at exhibitions? I know that leaflets were being distributed at last years International N Gauge Show.

 

Douglas

 

I agree, the postage is very high.

[Kris]

 

 

I believe Wayne's points using a moving sleeper/tie-bar that has a centre hole ready to accept the wire actuators from the likes of Tortoise/Cobalt motors. The design looks strong enough to absorb the 'wallop' from using Peco/Seep solenoids

 

Izzy

 

 

I would be very cautious of using a solenoid on these tie bars. Whist it would work initially, I think that it would fail quickly. 

[RBE]

I agree theres never any reason to use solenoid type point motors IMO. Had their day as far as Im concerned. The postage is rather high on the track parts and makes buying quite expensive. Although I have finetrax plain track, which is great, I think the postage and price of kits is putting me off pointwork. I would like one of them in the yard on MD but at £16.50 plus another 6 and a half quid it makes one expensive point. The plaine track is well priced at £4 a yard but £16.50 a point nah. Ill make my own in copperclad and rail.

[hayfield]

Ah, so it was you who beat me to that one.

 

Sorry, I just wanted to see one and have a go at making it. Certainly will shut up those who complain about the difficulty in threading 4mm chairs