Southernboy Posted September 25, 2013 Author Share Posted September 25, 2013 Thank you Colin, and your last comment is spot on: I am taking it particularly slowly and thoughtfully at the moment in order to establish a method I can reliably adapt for use in future units. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Great progress Mark, and really inspiring me to crack on and finish off the Worsley etch for a class 309 "Clacton" EMU that has been sat half finished on my bookshelf for the past few years! I bought the same Farish parcels 101 to donate a drive chassis, so its been very helpful to see how you've tackled it - and not least to learn that the PCB needs to be retained (or otherwise bridged) Regarding storage, I've had many other 2mm modellers warn off using foam, especially the cheaper open cell foam, as used by the eBay people who sell n gauge stock boxes in blue plastic see through cases. Like PECO underlay foam, this disintegrates over time, and can attach itself to paintwork in the process. I don't know for certain, but it looks like the KR cases use better and more stable closed cell foam (similar to sound insulation foam). Personally for my 2mm and kit built N gauge models I use wooden art storage boxes (from eBay, or with a set of cheap watercolours in from the Works or WHSmith at Christmas time). The smaller size ones give you one layer of N models, the larger ones can be made into two layers using the "palette" sheet of MDF that is usually included. I made dividers from artists mount board, and plenty of acid free tissue paper. Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted September 26, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2013 Regarding storage, I've had many other 2mm modellers warn off using foam, especially the cheaper open cell foam, as used by the eBay people who sell n gauge stock boxes in blue plastic see through cases. Like PECO underlay foam, this disintegrates over time, and can attach itself to paintwork in the process. I don't know for certain, but it looks like the KR cases use better and more stable closed cell foam (similar to sound insulation foam). Hi My stock is stored in drawers from WH Smith but they don't seem to have them now. They are available at Tesco http://www.tesco.com/direct/pierre-henry-a4-12-drawer-multi-filing-cabinet-silver-with-black-drawers/211-6739.prd?pageLevel=&promoId=promo13370078 These are then fitted with a foam insert from JB Models (I think the order codes are 201 and 202 for 36 spaces or 9 slots respectively but I notice these are no longer advertised). http://stores.ebay.co.uk/JBs-Model-World/N-Gauge-Storage-/_i.html?_fsub=2187821&_nkw=storage+foam is the person but I'm not sure if they do the trays separately. I got the idea for this method of storage from Paddy Coleman via the N Gauge group on Yahoo. I have had these trays now for three to four years and there is no sign of the foam insert disintergrating nor does it mark the stock. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted September 30, 2013 Author Share Posted September 30, 2013 Thank you Justin, I've now started work on how to adapt the chassis / fit the motor and hope to post some pictures in the next ten days or so. And thanks also for advice on storage boxes / methods. Mounting board and acid-free tissue paper seems a neat idea. Many thanks also Paul, the drawers seem good, and I look forward to the day when I have something of that size full from top to bottom with lovely pre-war Southern stock! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted September 30, 2013 Share Posted September 30, 2013 Wow great work and what a great thread, you are inspiring me to finish my first n gauge project a Bh Enterprises Thumper. Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work All the bestChris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 LSWR 3 Sub Update: 13 Hello all, I felt it was time to file an update: Apologies if some of the following seems a little déjà vu - but I do a lot of 'dry-runs' with my work ... This week I soldered the next motor coach together, some of it came together perfectly first time ... one corner took me three attempts ... but soldering - you don't frighten me any more Ha! The next picture I am really chuffed with. On the left is the rear end of the motor car - can you see the joins between the carriage sides and the end?No, nor can I And on the right, just-left of the cab door, is the soldered join between the carriage side and the cab-front - and that's barely perceptible too.Double Ha! Anyway, you may remember I previously made a former to help shape the cab fronts ... but for some reason it just wasn't working intuitively for me ... so this time I just used some basic bits of heavy metal as shown below to tap and knock things into shape by eye ... and somehow I feel more satisfied with the results of doing things this way. Moving on, from explorations last week, I made a refined motor-carriage floor version 2 ... Next I soldered the sole bars / head stocks to make the basic frame, and made a spacer so that it sits at the correct height to be level with the other cars. Then the floor drops into place. It's a fair bit higher than would be ideal - but I'm hoping with the mid-third siting low enough to fall within the frame, and with retaining bolts at each end, all will be well ... but checking that out for certain is my exercise for the coming week ... As mentioned - I do always do quite a bit of 'dry-running' as I go ... so here is the motor in place. At the front there will be just enough room for a clear cab and motorman. The carriage-retaining bracket at the back will have to be a fair bit higher than is customary. I'm not sure whether there will be room for a retaining bracket at the front yet ... I'll have to work that out nearer the time.Anyway, just to conclude the dry-running, here's the rooves dropped loosely in place again. I know I've dry-run the rooves before (etc) ... but my experience is that sometimes you change one little thing ... and suddenly something entirely unrelated no longer sits in it's place as you would expect ... so I always triple-check even the least likely things as I go. ----------- Sorry developments are so slow - but work has kept me late the last year or so and I have less time than I used to for self-indulgence. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Hi Mark, Some good progress and development there. The motor coach looks to be sitting nice and low on its bogies, which gives it a pleasingly realistic appearance. Only one thing: Is it my imagination or are the roofs a trifle short?! Anyway, fitting a mechanism into a scale 8ft wide body has been a triumph. Rather different skills required from modelling tiny shops I'm sure! All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Good to see someone overcoming their fear of the dark arts. Really neat looking joins they are now too. I can still see them but they are more than likely to disappear completely under the first coat of paint. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Great work I have yet to overcome the soldering fears, albeit mine will be in OO gauge, have also done a bit on my N gauge Thumper after being inspired again by this thread. All the best Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 Thank you Gents, very much appreciated as always. Colin: You are right, the roof on the right is short, because I have yet to form the domed front. I dropped it in to check that it would still fit with the motor now sitting a little higher than I had originally anticipated. Sorry, I should have explained that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c2c Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Hi Mark looks like the model wont be long now before you will be running it, looking really good now. I don't know of anyone else who has built or motorised one of these kits yet so I guess you are paving the way for others to follow! As Allen doesn't browse forums I know he would really like you to send him pictures of the model when it is finished. I'm meeting up with him at the end of the month, no doubt we will have a good chat about your challenges and progress. Best regards DaveH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Hello Dave, thanks for your post Well it's not a 'kit' of course (I wish it was!) - but a 'scratch aid' I'll be more than happy to send Allen pictures of the finished units - do you think in return he'll be happy to give me a discount on my next order (I'm thinking 6-Pul or 4-Cor)? Do let him know that as a modeller of early Southern Railway I am really chuffed that someone out there is prepared to produce etchings for my era and area of interest. When I returned to the hobby just five years or so ago there was absolutely no one producing anything I could build upon ... so I am quite grateful he has stepped into the breach. Actually, out of interest, when you see him would you ask if he has had much interest in these or other pre-war Southern Railway units? I'd be interested to know the range of interest (if any) he has received. Thanks again, Mark btw - using a prototype chassis I have already run the unit, in particular to test it on the tightest curves to ensure my arrangement allowed sufficient swing to the bogies which it does I am happy to say. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
c2c Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Hi Mark, no doubt Allen will probably want to place pics of your completed project on his website. Regarding discount I guess once he see's how dedicated you have been it would be foolish not to give you bit off the next purchase, after all there could be more future images for his site to promote his wares! If you want, PM me a letter or message for Allen so I can print it off and give it to him at Swanley on 26th. Anyway keep going m8 All the best DaveH Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted November 17, 2013 Author Share Posted November 17, 2013 LSWR 3 Sub Update: 14 Hello everyone, Here's a precis of progress and setbacks on my 3-Subs over the last few weeks ... ... after my previous confident post I looked again and wasn't quite so happy with the way the motor, the 'floor' and chassis were sitting. There was a droop which would not bode well for longer-term reliability ... I went back to basics - and stepped-up from there, gluing the floor in place bit-by-bit as I went and ensuring everything was level and true along the way ... This will form the prototype for my two remaining motor units The reason for the differing heights in the floor is to accommodate the different base-levels of the leading motor bogie and trailing pick-up bogie ... In this revised version you can see I've allowed for maximum swing of the bogies through arced apertures Here are the rear bogie pick-ups ... This week I've been working on the two remaining composites and the (non) motorised driving car... .. which leaves just the two remaining motorised MBTs to complete the three 3-Subs (!) Although it's not as straightforward as that of course! Drilling the holes for door and grab handles is taking many hours - it's worthwhile, but time consuming ... but I wouldn't have it otherwise (no gain without pain!) .... Mr Etched Pixels has kindly agreed to supply rooves for these other two sets. From those I have to form the domes over the cabs. I've also started art-working the transfers ... on the left is my draft, on the right some originals from the NGS which sadly are no longer available, but nevertheless help as a comparison guide to scale ... Anyway - I mentioned setbacks: I read that when soldering nuts to floors, to ensure the bolt doesn't get soldered as well it should be coated in oil, which I did. But obviously not enough ... I spent about two hours today gently filing and trimming and tapping a bolt that I'd inadvertently soldered lock-solid with a carriage floor. GGrrrrrrrr !! But lessons learned! Finally: Some questions if I may, 1) I've been ferreting the pennies away the last year to buy an airbrush and compressor, and would like to go for an iwata ... does anyone have any knowledge or recommendations for me? I can afford up to mid-range £££. 2) Enamel paint comes in 14ml tins (or larger) ... if I have three 3-car EMUs (so nine carriages in-all) to spray, will one 14ml tin suffice for all or am I likely to need more (bearing in mind I'll need to experiment first to get used to airbrushing) ??? 3) Apart from the obvious colours that I will need - what else would I require (such as primer? cleaning fluid? etc) ??? if you have product codes too that would help me 4) Trusses: My Worsley Works kit has no trusses - and suggestions on how to make them? (by which I mean what gauge or type of brass strip or Plasticard specifically?) I know the answer may seem obvious to some, but I am still a beginner and still struggle with what may seem obvious to others - sorry!!) Well I think that covers everything ... Mark Oh! I nearly forgot!! It Lives! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted November 18, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 18, 2013 1) I've been ferreting the pennies away the last year to buy an airbrush and compressor, and would like to go for an iwata ... does anyone have any knowledge or recommendations for me? I can afford up to mid-range £££. Hi I bought an Iwata Revolution CR eighteen months ago and have not regretted the purchase. Well made and produces excellent results (well it does when my son uses it for his warhammer, I need more practice). Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted November 18, 2013 Author Share Posted November 18, 2013 Thank you Paul, that looks like a good model and very reasonably priced too. May I ask if you bought a compressor too? I'm considering the Sprint Jet https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?osCsid=c4c4283ae27fa68fe4b57d13ec818049&cPath=2_41&products_id=565 One of my criteria is for a low noise compressor as I live in a flat, and that model rates 50dcb, which seems good to me (I seem to remember old compressors used to make quite a noise). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PaulCheffus Posted November 19, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 19, 2013 Thank you Paul, that looks like a good model and very reasonably priced too. May I ask if you bought a compressor too? I'm considering the Sprint Jet https://airbrushes.com/product_info.php?osCsid=c4c4283ae27fa68fe4b57d13ec818049&cPath=2_41&products_id=565 One of my criteria is for a low noise compressor as I live in a flat, and that model rates 50dcb, which seems good to me (I seem to remember old compressors used to make quite a noise). Hi I do have a compressor but not an Iwata one. Mine is one of these http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Compressor-Double-Action-Airbrushes/dp/B004XP7K9W but it isn't the quietest. Cheers Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted November 19, 2013 Share Posted November 19, 2013 4) Trusses: My Worsley Works kit has no trusses - and suggestions on how to make them? (by which I mean what gauge or type of brass strip or Plasticard specifically?) These early units had rod trussing, so wire would be more appropriate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted November 19, 2013 Author Share Posted November 19, 2013 Thank you Paul and Bernard, very much appreciated. Now it's time to chew the cud a little ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidK71 Posted November 20, 2013 Share Posted November 20, 2013 These early units had rod trussing, so wire would be more appropriate. Some of the Masterclass Models 2mm kits had tie rod trusses as very fine etches which look lovely, so etching is one possible solution. Drawing your own and getting someone like PPD to etch it is possible if a bit pricey, alternatively Etched Pixels do have various angle and rod trusses which might be suitable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted November 20, 2013 Author Share Posted November 20, 2013 Hello David, Many thanks for your recommendations. I'm looking now at various options, but in particular I am currently in conversation with Mr Etched Pixels regarding a possible solution. All will be revealed (for better or worse) in due course Thanks again, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 Hello David, Many thanks for your recommendations. I'm looking now at various options, but in particular I am currently in conversation with Mr Etched Pixels regarding a possible solution. Although my first vote is for guitar string Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted November 21, 2013 Share Posted November 21, 2013 I made the supports for the corner steps for all my NPCS from .008" or 0.009" guitar string because they are particularly vulnerable and this material is very difficulty to kink permanently be accident. My second vote would be for nickel silver wire of similar diameters. Etch material (in my experience), which is the other option I suspect you are investigating, can vary quite dramatically in how hard it is and this affects the likelihood of damage. I know you have a few vehicles to do, and as such probably feel that etching is a good route, but you could make a basic jig to ensure that you can bend, solder up and attach several sets of truss rodding with reasonable consistency for a similar amount of time and effort. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MrSimon Posted November 21, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2013 Looking good sir - can't wait to see it painted up on Frankland! Keep up the good work Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernboy Posted November 21, 2013 Author Share Posted November 21, 2013 Thanks again for thoughts and support gents, as always much appreciated. I can see trusses are not a straightforward matter and further rumination is required. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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