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JLTRT Castle Build


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Hi all

sorry for delay in posting having retired I thought I would have lots of time for hobbies but life is busier than when I worked as a GP!

The instructions for this kit are sadly lacking and I need all the help I can get!!

I note on Ozzyo's posts he has to cut out the formers to fit the cast springs on the frames - I am still working this out and hesitate to make a mistake

I have completed the hornblocks and this how I intend to fit the springs

post-11751-0-04041600-1368093227_thumb.jpg

post-11751-0-51615500-1368093379_thumb.jpg

I cannot really work out where the castings go from the SDK on the chassis so I have moved on to the footplate and bogie

post-11751-0-40952200-1368093277_thumb.jpg

As far as the bogie is concerned I have found several inaccuracies - first are the hornblocks

post-11751-0-14252700-1368093349_thumb.jpg

which appear to be shown differently in the drawings - which is correct?

and the other is the frame which appears to be too long to fit

post-11751-0-69411100-1368093479_thumb.jpg

The other help I could do with is how to cut off and tidy up brass castings currently I use a dremel with a diamond disc

has anyone got a better method

 

Thanks for comments and they are all appreciated

 

Bob H

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Hello Bob,

 

in photo 1&2 you still have two parts to cut off the bottom of the frames, you should end up with the frames looking like this,

post-8920-0-42065800-1368096475_thumb.jpg

 

The parts that are cut off are replaced by these,

post-8920-0-74272500-1368096706_thumb.jpg

 

The frame spacers will need cutting to clear the springs, if your unsure about cutting the spacers that your going to use, you should have two sets that your not going to use to try it out on.

post-8920-0-46003600-1368096727_thumb.jpg

 

In photo four don't fit the small oil pots, as 1) the marks on the axle-box casting is on the wrong side and 2) they get in the way of free movement of the axle-boxs,

 

In photo five you have the base beams upside down and the wrong way around. When I'm doing the bar framed bogies this is how I do the base beams, all the spacers in place and remove the locating pips. The bottom of the beams has the bolt heads,

post-8920-0-08158400-1368096742_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-15396700-1368096756_thumb.jpg

 

I hope that these two photos will show what I mean better.

post-8920-0-81390200-1368096769_thumb.jpg

post-8920-0-65061000-1368096783_thumb.jpg

 

The following photos are not of a Castle bogie but one from a Hall, it's the same type of bogie but slightly different in the build.

post-8920-0-55765700-1368097509_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-90854800-1368097519_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-44783800-1368097530_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-75687200-1368097540_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-27065800-1368097551_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-98365600-1368097561_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-66768300-1368097572_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-64681900-1368097636_thumb.jpgpost-8920-0-54875200-1368097647_thumb.jpg

 

HTH

 

OzzyO.

 

EDIT for PS. at the front of the inside of the footplate you will have to remove the etched part that represents the inside motion bracket, so you should end up with something like this,

post-8920-0-28453300-1368098523_thumb.jpg

 

The part that you cut out is replaced by  something that looks like this,

post-8920-0-63300800-1368098568_thumb.jpg

 

Or this,

post-8920-0-82162000-1368098800_thumb.jpg

 

I'm sending you a PM that should help you a bit more.

Edited by ozzyo
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Bob,

 

if your not sure what a PM is, if you look at the top black line on RMweb you should see a envelope to the left of your name, depending on your notification settings it should have a red ring with a number in it, if you click on that it will open your PMs.

 

OzzyO.

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Guest Isambarduk

I hope I’m not thought to be hijacking this thread but, if we’re talking up Castles, I’d like to introduce the one that I built based on a Mitchell kit but I scratch built quite a bit, including the working inside motion and many other details that were not in the original kit.

 

post-5428-0-24833200-1368310851_thumb.jpg

 

post-5428-0-70918700-1368310919_thumb.jpg

 

 

Below is a short (11 seconds) video clip of the inside motion at work.  Of course, you cannot see much of this once the ‘body’ is placed on top but, on the completed model, you can see the outside valve rods moving correctly (none of that flicking lever 4mm-style compromise, no thank you!), the crossheads reciprocating between the frames and the dieblocks oscillating below the boiler – all of which is most satisfying.

 

 

 

 

David

aka DLOS

Edited by Isambarduk
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Guest Isambarduk

"... makes me realise I'm only playing at being a railway modeller"

Thank you for the compliment, Rob, but don't be thinking that I gain more satisfaction or pleasure from modelling than you do; far from it, I wish I could learn to play a bit more because sometimes I feel as if my hobby has turned into a second job!  No, you keep on playing and enjoying what you do.

 

"was this at Telford last year?"

No, OzzyO; it would have been, had I been at Telford on the Sunday, but I was there only on the Saturday helping out on a stand because that's when their need was greatest.

 

David

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