A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[MikeTrice]

This is a picture of my 6 wheeled NER coach some 2 weeks after construction. I have not experienced and pitting from the solvent being used between laminations. What I have suffered from is distortion where the inner sides are fixed to the partitions:

 

Now I seem to recall many years ago reading that as the solvent evaporates the molten styrene shrinks resulting in the sides being pulled in. With the top slots for glazing this part of the coach is quite weak resulting in the problem.

 

I think I am going to abandon trying to use slots for the glazing and just provide recesses in the rear, like Colin Parks does. I am also going to invert the shell so the roof is permanently fixed and the body open beneath. Should be rock solid then. Fortunately revamping the Silhouette artwork and recutting is far less stressful than doing it by hand. 

 

 

[knobhead]

Styrene laminations are tricky. warping can occur long after you think it could.  I've had better luck using CA-glue than solvents of various kinds.

 

Regards,

 

Stefan

[N15class]

This is a picture of my 6 wheeled NER coach some 2 weeks after construction. I have not experienced and pitting from the solvent being used between laminations. What I have suffered from is distortion where the inner sides are fixed to the partitions:

IMG_4675.JPG

 

Now I seem to recall many years ago reading that as the solvent evaporates the molten styrene shrinks resulting in the sides being pulled in. With the top slots for glazing this part of the coach is quite weak resulting in the problem.

 

I think I am going to abandon trying to use slots for the glazing and just provide recesses in the rear, like Colin Parks does. I am also going to invert the shell so the roof is permanently fixed and the body open beneath. Should be rock solid then. Fortunately revamping the Silhouette artwork and recutting is far less stressful than doing it by hand. 

Try to redesign, make the ends loose and fit after the body is finished and glaze. You do this so that the glazing can be slid in from the ends, this way the top of the sides are solid. David Jenkinson made his coaches this way, I recomend you read his book about it. Also only laminate sheets in odd numbers. I am building a 7mm coach the Jenkinson way and have no problems of warping. Thinks need to vent for a long time to loose all traces of solvent.

[Alex]

Hi Alex

 

It looks like you're in luck! I know nothing about the machine, but if it was me, I'd read the installation instructions, install the software onto the computer, plug in the cutter using the (hopefully) supplied cable, draw a couple of simple shapes, and see if they will cut. At some point, I'd also make sure I have the latest version of the software installed - it's not always the one on the disk.

 

I hope I don't confuse things, but the SGV files that eCAL supports, and the DFX files that can be imported into the Silhouette Studio that we have been talking about here are two different flavours of the same thing, that is scalable vector graphics. It would be more of a benefit in the long run to try to get into the free Inkscape software as Inkscape creates the SVG files that eCAL supports. Your settings for your machine when it comes to different materials under the knife will be different, so unless someone has tried already, you'll have to do a bit or research on that side of things. Always start with a lighter pressure than you think, and then go heavier until you get the effect you need.

• The Sizzix website is here: http://www.sizzix.com/home
• The software link for the Eclips is here http://www.craftedge.com/products/products_ecal.html
• MikeTrice's Inkscape tutorials are at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80563-introduction-to-using-inkscape-to-produce-cutting-files/

 

I can't wait to see what you come up with - you may be a trailblazer, and if you can cut .020" styrene we will all be very jealous!

 

cheers

 

Jason

 

And you aren't barging in, the more the merrier!

 

 

 

Cheers for the reply have to send away for eCal as it doesn't come with the cutter. when it arrives look forward to have a go at making rail items

Thanks for the links

 

Cheers

Alex

Edited January 12, 2014 by Alex

[TheLaird]

Thanks JCL.  I have some HP Inkjet Transparency Film, so I'll give that a try.  Another thought was to apply a film of Inkjet Transfer film to the plasticard before printing and cutting.  I'll let you know how I get on!

 

Mike

How about the self adhesive Vinyl used for sign making? It looks like some is available that will take inkjet printing similar to the inkjet transparencies. A coach side could be printed and stuck on to plasticard and then cut out maybe!!

 

John E.

 

or better still, stick it to the plasticard, then print and cut as demonstrated above?

Edited January 12, 2014 by TheLaird

[JCL]

It's a great idea, and I've seen waterproof vinyl around (i.e. the ink becomes waterproof and won't run if it gets wet). Would it be possible to colour the thickness of the vinyl so it doesn't leave a white edge? If it is' what would be the best thing to use?

 

Also, just a passing tip, if anyone has problems with objects changing size when swapping from Inkscape to Studio, this might help. In Inkscape I draw a rectangle that is exactly 10cm long (an arbitrary length). When I open the drawing I then check the rectangle, if it isn't exactly the same size, then I know I've got to change something somewhere. This stops me from printing things the wrong size.

[MikeOxon]

Printing on Styrene

 

The forum posts on the internet range from "you've no chance" to "this is how I do it". I found this thread http://www.starshipmodeler.net/talk/viewtopic.php?t=97467&sid=b7bd2c504a6a224cd71ecea12cb5b9ea that appears to show someone that's given it a go with the use of hairspray and Krylon satin clear coat. I haven't tried it, but you might find it interesting.

After a bit of Googling, i found some stuff called 'Inkaid',which is supposed to make almost any surface 'printable'.  A UK supplier is at  http://www.artvango.co.uk/pdfs/catalogue/avg_p20-27_drawingsurfaces_2009.pdf

 

The most likely product for non-porous surfaces (eg plastics & metals) seems to be:

Clear Gloss Type II Developed to eliminate the two stage coating (Adhesive & Clear Gloss) needed on many non-porous surfaces.

• 41501 236ml £9.95
• 41502 473ml £18.95
• 41503 944ml £36.95

I'm still deciding the best way ahead but have this on my list of things I might try.

 

Mike

[JCL]

I once broke a work laser printer printing 90 wedding invitations on textured hand made paper containing pressed flowers. I might wait for someone else to do this!

[uax6]

Mike, I'm glad I'm not the only onw with a wonky coach, my mk1 went just like yours! I have redesigned keeping the slots, but have added another inner layer, and may even add another strip along the cantrail of the completed inner side. Colins inner recess is another way of doing it, but having to glue the windows in is a bit final, and is usually where i spoil the whole effect!

 

I haven't got any trial sides with me at the moment, so i can't tell you if they have waped any.

 

Andy G

[MikeOxon]

Also, just a passing tip, if anyone has problems with objects changing size when swapping from Inkscape to Studio, this might help. In Inkscape I draw a rectangle that is exactly 10cm long (an arbitrary length). When I open the drawing I then check the rectangle, if it isn't exactly the same size, then I know I've got to change something somewhere. This stops me from printing things the wrong size.

I had problems with objects changing size when I transferred from AutoSketch via DXF. 

 

For all those,  like me, who do not read manuals thoroughly,  there are settings in 'Studio' for import options, in the File | Preferences menu.  Make sure you select the option to import "as is" - mine was initially set to "Fit to Page"

 

I also note that there are printer options too - mine was on 300dpi, which I have changed to 1200dpi - hopefully for crisper details.

 

Finally,  there is a test page, which can be used to fine-tune the calibration of the cutter.

 

Mike

 

Mike

[JCL]

Good point Mike.

 

Here's another one based on experience.

 

If you are going to do a long cut, and you can't or won't sit there and watch it happen, then make sure that you have any power saving settings switched off. The last thing you need is your computer powering down half way through as the job won't pick up where it left off when you switch the computer back on again.

 

Cheers

 

Jason

[MikeTrice]

I once broke a work laser printer printing 90 wedding invitations on textured hand made paper containing pressed flowers. I might wait for someone else to do this!

I was not planning on trying cutting textured hand made paper containing pressed flowers

Edited January 13, 2014 by MikeTrice

[Ron Heggs]

Have been doing some test cuts using window frames as the objects and 10 thou styrene

 

To try and get as accurate cuts as possible I saved all the horizontal lines as one dxf file, vertical lines as a second dxf file and curved lines as a third file. As they were all saved with same object origin, then the cuts from each file will be in the same register

 

The vertical lines were cut first, then the horizontal lines and finally the curved lines. Watching the cutter it was apparent that the cutter head was moving from one line to another based on a next nearest cut algorithm. This means that the direction of the cuts was not the same, even though all the lines were drawn in the same direction

 

On examining the cut lines, it was noticeable that where the cutter head changed direction the blade was pointing in the opposite direction at the start of the cut and the cut was distorted by a small round depression and a slight re-alignment of the blade. This would not normally be a problem, but where the cuts are close together i.e. less than 1mm then it is possible for the cuts to stray too close to each other causing break-out when the styrene is removed from the mat

 

The window glazing bars are usually around 0.5mm wide (equivalent to 38mm in 4mm scale)

 

 

 

It is a pity the cutter doesn't have a single or bidirectional option like inkjet printers have, as that would overcome this problem

 

-

 

Tests on the card that I use for printed brickwork was disasterous, even at minimal blade depths and low thickness settings. The cutter left a trail of debris instead of clean cut lines. May have to obtain a different type of card, probably nearer to photo paper quality

 

Ron

 

Edit: Pictures added

Edited January 13, 2014 by Ron Heggs

[JCL]

Hi Ron

 

If it helps at all, I've changed the way I cut by first doing a score and then cutting. When I first started with this thing I'd try to force my blade down into the styrene as far as it would go, and the results were awful. Now I score first (blade say 3, thickness 5) and then do a second pass with a deeper cut. I might be imagining it, but I'm guessing that the score line I put in in the first pass helps keep the blade on track.

 

With the paper or card, a lot of it will depend on the card being cut. With the Tourist Stock coach side above, I did pretty well with cutting around the top window frames. I haven't had that much luck with ordinary card - I tried to cut that gate in card as well as plastic, and the card disintegrated into fluff.

 

The Belgian(?) website that Ed posted in http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/?p=1282730 seems to concentrate on cutting paper rather than plastic. My French is rubbish, but there is a discussion on there about which papers are best to use.

 

On another general point, someone mentioned a little while back about their prints being fuzzy. Apart from the idea I put up at the time there is another factor, and this is the paper itself. Different papers absorb inks to different levels. I've always noted a slight bleed with the standard card I bought from Staples that I don't get with photopaper. If you think this might be the problem, and it's not just a lack of pixels, then it might be worth checking that the paper type in the printer setup is correct. If there's too much bleed, it's can be because there is too much ink being squirted out for that paper type.

[Ron Heggs]

Hi Ron

 

If it helps at all, I've changed the way I cut by first doing a score and then cutting. When I first started with this thing I'd try to force my blade down into the styrene as far as it would go, and the results were awful. Now I score first (blade say 3, thickness 5) and then do a second pass with a deeper cut. I might be imagining it, but I'm guessing that the score line I put in in the first pass helps keep the blade on track.

 

With the paper or card, a lot of it will depend on the card being cut. With the Tourist Stock coach side above, I did pretty well with cutting around the top window frames. I haven't had that much luck with ordinary card - I tried to cut that gate in card as well as plastic, and the card disintegrated into fluff.

 

The Belgian(?) website that Ed posted in http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79025-a-guide-to-using-the-silhouette-cameo-cutter/?p=1282730 seems to concentrate on cutting paper rather than plastic. My French is rubbish, but there is a discussion on there about which papers are best to use.

 

On another general point, someone mentioned a little while back about their prints being fuzzy. Apart from the idea I put up at the time there is another factor, and this is the paper itself. Different papers absorb inks to different levels. I've always noted a slight bleed with the standard card I bought from Staples that I don't get with photopaper. If you think this might be the problem, and it's not just a lack of pixels, then it might be worth checking that the paper type in the printer setup is correct. If there's too much bleed, it's can be because there is too much ink being squirted out for that paper type.

 

Hi, Jason

 

When I cut 10thou styrene the first time is a score at blade 2 and thickness 5, then a further score with blade 6 and thickness 19, and finish with blade 10 and thickness 33 (trying to mimic hand cutting). The results a far better than 10/33 double cut, but still get this slight off path cut when the blade changes direction abruptly

-

I guessed it was the card type, which might be ok for printing brickwork, etc., but needs to be slightly stiffer and smoother surface for cutting by machine

 

Ron

Edited January 13, 2014 by Ron Heggs

[MikeTrice]

For 10thou styrene I would say a blade setting of 10 is far too much.The blade only needs to project for the thickness of the material plus a tiny amount. For 10thou I have never gone above 5. Much deeper and you will cut up your carrier sheet. As an aside you must ensure the end of the cutter holder is free from dust or cuttings as it will stop the blade going deep enough.

[MikeTrice]

Mark 2 design:

 

As with the axleboxes I include a small registration mark (top right) to help get the layers the right way round. Here laminated together but before the vents and bolections added:

 

The rear showing the recesses for glazing:

 

At 7 laminations it is quite thick, but unlike my original attempt very solid:

 

The turn under is created the same way as my original design:

 

View showing how deeply the windows are recessed for the glazing.

 

Edited January 13, 2014 by MikeTrice

[MikeOxon]

There's a potential for confusion over the term 'thickness setting'.  In Silhouette manual-speak, it actual refers to the pressure applied to the cutter.  Quote: "The Thickness is measured in approximately 7 grams force per setting and has 33 levels. In other words, the Silhouette can cut from 7 grams up to 230 grams force. Thicker materials will likely require higher Thickness levels."

 

I found, when cutting HP printer paper, that the 'chads' did not press out cleanly when I used a 'thickness' setting of 15 but were fine at 33.  It seems that, for card materials, a higher pressure is a good idea, providing the blade projection has been adjusted correctly.

[MikeTrice]

When I tried cutting card from Inkscape it was not very successful and I do believe it was because I could not control the pressure of the cut.

[JCL]

The longest post in this thread about blade depths might be interesting to people

 

http://www.studiocalico.com/community/studio-chat/topics/44022-silhouette

[JCL]

There's a potential for confusion over the term 'thickness setting'.  In Silhouette manual-speak, it actual refers to the pressure applied to the cutter.  Quote: "The Thickness is measured in approximately 7 grams force per setting and has 33 levels. In other words, the Silhouette can cut from 7 grams up to 230 grams force. Thicker materials will likely require higher Thickness levels."

 

I found, when cutting HP printer paper, that the 'chads' did not press out cleanly when I used a 'thickness' setting of 15 but were fine at 33.  It seems that, for card materials, a higher pressure is a good idea, providing the blade projection has been adjusted correctly.

Definitely Mike. I was reading what looked like nonsense earlier - .3mm thick paper was seen to be less thick than .3mm dense card.

[Colin parks]

Mark 2 design:

IMG_4682.JPG

 

As with the axleboxes I include a small registration mark (top right) to help get the layers the right way round. Here laminated together but before the vents and bolections added:

IMG_4685.JPG

 

The rear showing the recesses for glazing:

IMG_4686.JPG

 

At 7 laminations it is quite thick, but unlike my original attempt very solid:

IMG_4688.JPG

 

The turn under is created the same way as my original design:

IMG_4689.JPG

 

View showing how deeply the windows are recessed for the glazing.

IMG_4692.JPG

Hi Mike,

 

The coach side look very good indeed. Not much extra ballast will be required for the model with sides that thick. How do you intend to fix the glazing in place and is it possible to use the cutter to cut glazing?

 

All the best,

 

Colin

[MikeTrice]

Hi Mike,

 

The coach side look very good indeed. Not much extra ballast will be required for the model with sides that thick. How do you intend to fix the glazing in place and is it possible to use the cutter to cut glazing?

 

All the best,

 

Colin

Fixing glazing is a long way off yet, but I might try Clearfix and yes, it should be possible to use the cutter to cut the glazing.

[uax6]

Mike,

 

Today I've tried de-stressing some of my laminated sides. The results were mixed. The full thinkness side I tried (which like yours had gone a bit wonky) worked really well. About a minute in almost boiling water, and then placed between two glass placemats weighted down with about 6 lbs of kitchen weights. Then let cool. It came out almost completely dead striaght, and is now usable.

 

The others I tried were a pair of window laminations and a top and next layer lamination. I let them in a bit too long and managed to melt both sets ;-(

 

So I think the trick is to have a fulled laminated side and then de-stress it. The chances are that your original sides might come back from the dead.

 

I do have to say that the new version does look attractive, but glassing could be tricky.

 

Andy G

[MikeOxon]

The longest post in this thread about blade depths might be interesting to people

 

http://www.studiocalico.com/community/studio-chat/topics/44022-silhouette

I noticed in that post that the blade is claimed to be exposed in 0.1 mm increments. For example, a blade level of 1 = 0.1 mm, a level of 2 = 0.2 mm, etc.  If this is accurate, then 10 thou styrene (0.25 mm) should not need more than a '3' setting.