Nile's Mostly Freelance Bodging Bench - Pre-Grouping Locos

[Nile]

Sprung Buffers

 

I'd decided to make this train as two 4 coach half sets with normal buffers and couplings between them. This gives added flexibility and as Stephen suggested the ability to run a shorter train. To avoid a big gap and maintain close-ish coupling this would need sprung buffers at the inner end of the half set.

In the interests of using what I've already got around me I made use of these 18" buffer heads from Wizard Models.

 

The thin part of the shaft will fit through a 0.5mm hole drilled through the headstock. The wall around the hole that the footboard plugs into needs to be removed, it's not needed as I've glued that in. The tail of the buffer was bent at right angles twice, the first bend set to limit how far out the buffer will go. Some 0.35mm phosphor bronze wire held in the block of white plastic acts as a spring for both buffers.

 

These are fitted to the first class coach at the inner end of the half set.

 

 

Edited October 27, 2022 by Nile

[Nile]

On the brake coaches I wanted a lower footboard below the guard's compartment. I've used spare ones from LBSCR coaches #, one provides enough parts for one brake coach. Some 0.5mm brass rod glued into holes in the chassis form the supports. The modified footboards were glued to these.

 

And then painted.

 

Brake end painted red, covering some of the windows. The buffers at this end aren't sprung, but that could change if needed.

[Compound2632]

Not sure you need lamp-irons on the close coupled end. 

[Annie]

3 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

Not sure you need lamp-irons on the close coupled end. 

It might be difficult to remove them without damaging the teak finish.

[Nile]

When close coupled they can hardly be seen. I shall keep these unwanted elements under review for now.

To close couple the two half sets together I tried a simple link over the coupling hooks, just long enough for the buffers to touch. This worked quite well, they negotiated a crossover made of small Peco points with ease. But actually coupling the coaches was a faff, holding both in mid air. So I devised a way of holding the link horizontal and keeping it fairly straight. I made a new link from some tinned copper wire, giving it a tail to which some 0.5mm plastic rod was glued.

 

When tucked under the chassis this tail keeps the loop horizontal. The plastic rod acts as a centring spring. Some mods to the chassis were needed for this.

 

The link sits in the hook.

 

Coupled with buffers touching.

The coupling action isn't automatic, but it's a lot easier than before.

After blackening.

[Mikkel]

Very clever Nile.

 

The changes you are making to these coaches are subtle but very effective, I think.  

[Guest]

On 16/02/2021 at 21:27, Nile said:

Brake end painted red, covering some of the windows. The buffers at this end aren't sprung, but that could change if needed.

 

 

I would be interested to know whether you used Oil based paint for the end panel or Acrylic. I wish to paint the red end on a NBR brake van the same colour as the body, but the closest match I can find is an acrylic paint. I knpw that one can paint over acrylic with oil, but don't believe it can be done the other way round, and I do not know which type of paint Hornby used.

[Nile]

I used acrylic - Humbrol 60.

Don't believe the nonsense some write about acrylic and oil paint. If the first layer has fully dried it shouldn't matter what type of paint the next layer is. If in doubt test first.

[BSW01]

I agree entirely, in the past I've successfully painted acrylic paint over enamel paint and vice versa with no unwanted side effects whatsoever. 

[Guest]

1 hour ago, Nile said:

I used acrylic - Humbrol 60.

Don't believe the nonsense some write about acrylic and oil paint. If the first layer has fully dried it shouldn't matter what type of paint the next layer is. If in doubt test first.

 

Thanks for that, I am certain that the nearest colour will be Humbrol RC403 Crimson Lake. All the on line Railway modelling shops seem to be listing it as out of stock, or are charging an enormouis amount for postage. Fortunately, our local toy shop has probably the best range of modelling paints I have ever seen. I will now have to wait for them to re-open. Secondly,  I know this is a dim question, but did you use paintbrushes. or did you mask it off and spray?

 

 

Edited February 21, 2021 by Guest

[Nile]

Paintbrush.

[Guest]

15 minutes ago, Nile said:

Paintbrush.

 

Thanks, that is what I will be doing. I have managed to find someone on ebay who can supply the Crimson Lake paint for a reasonable price, and have ordered a tin. lets hope it is a good match,

[Nile]

Not very exciting, it was a case of repeat until all 8 coaches were done. Eventually there was this, a half set:

 

and then this, the full set:

This now measures 890mm (35") long, which is 222 scale feet and therefore well within the 300ft length of a District Rwy platform.

 

Eventually some Evergreen plastic rod arrived for the gas lamp piping. I'm using their 0.025" (0.64mm) white rod, bent over the edges.

 

 

The vertical part was painted before gluing to the lamp bases, a mixture of Humbrol 29 & 62.

Only another 7 to go.

[chuffinghell]

Fantastic!

 

Do you have a special technique for bending the rod without it snapping, I’ve tried putting it in hot water before but don’t get a bend a neat as what you have done

[Nile]

This rod bends easily without snapping, Evergreen #219  0.025" .

[chuffinghell]

1 minute ago, Nile said:

This rod bends easily without snapping, Evergreen #219  0.025" .

I don’t think the stuff I’ve got is Evergreen, lesson learnt don’t buy the cheaper version  off EBay

 

’buy cheap, buy twice’

[James Harrison]

Marvellous work Nile, a vast improvement over the base offering. 

[Mikkel]

I agree, what an incredible attractive rake you've made of it. 

 

Evergreen just seems to have the edge on other makes, always gives the best result when I compare (no connection!). 

[wainwright1]

Your coaches look superb.

Its very helpful when someone in the know shows you how to do it.

I do not know how consistent these particular details are across the range of other companies coaches. I have just acquired a set of the Hornby LB & SCR coaches.

 

By the way, I don't know if I missed it, but what type of drill did you use to make the holes for the cross rods inside the brake shoes ?

 

Many thanks

All the best

Ray

[LNWR18901910]

2 hours ago, wainwright1 said:

Your coaches look superb.

Its very helpful when someone in the know shows you how to do it.

I do not know how consistent these particular details are across the range of other companies coaches. I have just acquired a set of the Hornby LB & SCR coaches.

 

By the way, I don't know if I missed it, but what type of drill did you use to make the holes for the cross rods inside the brake shoes ?

 

Many thanks

All the best

Ray

Yes, I was thinking of using of something similar for the WMR. Would GNR and LSWR coaches suffice?

[Nile]

4 hours ago, wainwright1 said:

By the way, I don't know if I missed it, but what type of drill did you use to make the holes for the cross rods inside the brake shoes ?

A 1mm drill in a pin vice, drilled about half way into the shoe.

[Nile]

1 hour ago, LNWR18901910 said:

Yes, I was thinking of using of something similar for the WMR. Would GNR and LSWR coaches suffice?

The LSWR coaches look closest to your livery. You could paint over the dark brown* areas with purple.

* it's actually so dark it's almost black.

[LNWR18901910]

21 minutes ago, Nile said:

The LSWR coaches look closest to your livery. You could paint over the dark brown* areas with purple.

* it's actually so dark it's almost black.

Really? I suppose I could do that.

[wainwright1]

3 hours ago, Nile said:

A 1mm drill in a pin vice, drilled about half way into the shoe.

Was that from the outside ?

 

Ray

[Nile]

No the inside. In this photo you can just about see it.

The idea is to make the cross rods long enough to fit into the holes without falling out, i.e. slightly longer than the distance between the shoes.