puddlejumper Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Well the time has come to finally put away all the excuses and actually start building this. I have been talking/thinking about/planning this for years and now that I am retired (I know........I don't look old enough) the procrastination has to stop. My good friend Charlie has agreed to make the buildings, I have most of the stock and enough wood and track to get it done so what's stopping me? I reckon if I put in 10 hours a week I should have it done in no time and Jim Read of this parish has kindly offered to supply some drawings to help me build Lady Armstrong so here goes. I hope to post progress on a weekly basis and will no doubt be asking for loads of help and advice. First dilemma was track, should I have a go at building my own or use Peco. I have decided on the latter for the simple reason the layout needs to be robust and reliable and ultimately by the time it's ballasted you will barely see the sleepers. So that's it, I have put it into the digital eternity so no going back, wish me luck and please don't laugh too much at my feeble attempts. BTW any tips on how to get a gentle curve on the baseboards, I thought it would be more interesting to have the layout on a curve. Also should the viewing side be from the outside of the circle or the inside?? All views welcome........ Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 I thought it would be more interesting to have the layout on a curve. Also should the viewing side be from the outside of the circle or the inside?? All views welcome........ Just my opinion a curved layout with the viewing side on the inside will feel cramped for he viewer (that is for expo layouts) for home layouts the reverse is true and it is more easy to operate from the well side (particularly for U shaped or roundy layouts. In the end it is down to what you want/prefer - its your layout Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 11, 2014 Author Share Posted May 11, 2014 Just my opinion a curved layout with the viewing side on the inside will feel cramped for he viewer (that is for expo layouts) for home layouts the reverse is true and it is more easy to operate from the well side (particularly for U shaped or roundy layouts. In the end it is down to what you want/prefer - its your layout Pretty much what I was thinking, the pro for viewing from the inside is the viewer feels more "drawn in" to the model but the height is critical, the con is as you say operation is much easier from inside the well. Found some great pics on t'interweb with loads of atmosphere http://communities.northumberland.gov.uk/images/005378.jpg http://communities.northumberland.gov.uk/images/005471.jpg and a copy of the track plan: http://www.freetrackplans.com/images/BLT_Seahouses.png Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Good luck with the layout, I took the same route about 18 months ago and haven't regretted the choice a single day since, though I suspect you will soon wonder when you ever had time to go to work. I think your track choice is sensible, I am building my own and it's a pain, I should have been a bit more realistic on time, the longer it takes to get trains running the more likely you are to lose interest. I shall be following your thread with interest. On the subject of flowing curves, I have found a piece of 2mm plastic, cut to 32mm wide, to have been most useful. Cuts have been made at 15mm intervals, 25mm into the strip, on alternating sides as below:- It rolls up when not in use and, when fitted in between the rails, provides a type of settrack template which can be pinned prior to fixing the track, and provide nice flowing curves. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
North Eastern Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 Hi Doug, Nice to see you making a start with Seahouses. There was a chap selling 'Seahouses' on ebay recently - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271425818594?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661 Not sure if he sold it but there was quite a few pictures on the listing and he may be up for selling the stock separately. Are your other layouts still available for 2015? Drop me a PM if they are. Regards Chris Stafford Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hi Chris Funnily enough I looked at that but it wasn't a prototypical track plan............& it was a hell of a lot of money!!! As far as stock goes I think I have most of it already. Some of the locos will need renumbering and weathering etc. I only have Lady Armstrong to build (looks like it will need to be scratch built but a few on here have done that so will be picking their brains) and one of the coaches to finish off. It really shouldn't take too much effort it's just about the time and applying myself...........this retirement lark means I really am struggling to find the time, it's a real cliche but I don't know how I ever managed to go to work!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hello Puddlejumper. Like you I started my layout "Ramchester" after I retired and 5 years down the line it is still far from complete (see rmweb The Ramchester Chronicles and the current GOG Gazette). Also like you I decided to use Peco track but I carried out several improvements as there were aspects of the product that I did not like. My friend Howard was a great help here and Ramchester owes him a great deal of thanks. The first thing was the removal of the unprototypical angular sleeper arrangement at the frog end of the point. This was cut off and replaced with a longer straight sleeper which in the case of a crossover extended right across to the far side of the adjacent track. The next thing were the ends of the wing and check rails which as produced are bent to a rather toy like angle. These were carefully straightened to a more realistic angle. Both these tasks are relatively simple to undertake and make a big improvement in the appearance of the track. The next thing is that Peco points are "universal" with regards to wheel standards and wheels to fine scale standards e.g. Slater's, etc have a tendency to drop when passing over the frog giving a bumpy ride. I solved this by gluing thin strips of plastic to the moulded base of the frog to minimise this drop. Result - a much smoother ride. I also rewired the points but this is another story. When laid, painted and ballasted Peco track look good as I hope the photos of Ramchester show. My layout is permanent and the baseboards are constructed using the L girder principle and I am happy with this. Any alterations to the baseboards are really simple to carry out which is just as well as there are plans afoot to alter part of the layout. I wish you luck with your new layout and will endeavour to follow it through rmweb. Railwayrod Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 12, 2014 Author Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hi Rod, yes I think I will have to do something with the points, the article in a recent gazette where he sorted the frog and tiebars has inspired me to have a go but I reckon I need to get the baseboards done first. Had a rake around the garage earlier today and have found four 3'x4' sheets of 12 mm ply so with a bIt of narrowing I think these will do fine as a starter. Also think I will go for cassettes in the fiddle yard.......Mike if you are reading this.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
81A Oldoak Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hi Rod, yes I think I will have to do something with the points, the article in a recent gazette where he sorted the frog and tiebars has inspired me to have a go but I reckon I need to get the baseboards done first. Had a rake around the garage earlier today and have found four 3'x4' sheets of 12 mm ply so with a bIt of narrowing I think these will do fine as a starter. Also think I will go for cassettes in the fiddle yard.......Mike if you are reading this.......... I think it is simpler to build points from C&L or Peco parts. It is not difficult and the finished item has a superior appearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
durham light infantry Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Woodworking tools ready when you are. Cassettes not a problem, what are you thinking of for the lighting? Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
railwayrod Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I agree with Chris on this point. With hindsight it would have been quicker to have built the points from C & L parts rather than fiddle about modifying the Peco ones. Additionally the hard part has been done if you purchase the frog unit from C & L already built up. In retrospect I wish that Howard and I had built the pointwork as we could have tailored them to suit the situation. At the end of the day "Ya pays ya money,,,,," Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSB Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 It also helps if you file the top of the rails around the frog on PECO points to level them off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hello Doug, Nice to se this thread started, hope you start the Lady Armstrong soon. Looking at the thread so far, you could make the track from card sleepers and Code 100 flat bottom rail though looking at the photographs again Code 85 would probably be better. In the earlier photographs you can see the sleepers but by 1948/52 only the rail itself is visible. I do think the Peco stuff will not look like a light railway it's far too big. If you could make the points yourself, (it really is easy) you would be able to use about 36" radii, I have a drawing that I did with a trammel of a 34" radius point that Bamburgh will go through easily. The hardest part is holding the rail to file the tapers on the blades the easiest part is making the frogs. Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 I used Peco on my Black Notley layout and it worked fine but next time - if there is a next time - I would go for C &L as you are not constrained by the Peco track geometry Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Well I have dug the plywood out of the shed and off to a mates house so hopefully I can con (sorry encourage) him to put them through the saw bench. Plan is simple flat boards (it is a very flat site after all) with about 10 degrees of angle on each of the scenic boards.......Mike if you are reading this time to get the tools out (and you can show me how to post pics too!!). Instead of legs I am using these http://www.screwfix.com/p/telescopic-trestle/30312?_requestid=30776 had a test run with them last weekend on another layout of mine and the work brilliantly. Once Seahouses is built this will give me 3 layouts to exhibit all using the same trestles, I can do some pics of the other layouts if anyone is interested ?? Hopefully can have a full day at the boards tomorrow or over the weekend and that's them done, will post pics as soon as Mike has shown me how to. As an aside we have a very small 0 gauge group and we are building a twin track test track, hence the visit to Malcolm's house today, should have most if not all the work done to finish building the boards swill be laying track on that one very soon........if anyone has some spare peco flexi track we can give it a good home Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
durham light infantry Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Might be able to make a start tomorrow mid-shift. Helen's birthday on Saturday, then demonstrating at Middlesbrough on Sunday. If you fancy a go at the "to do" list that Helen has got for me, I am sure we can get them done middle of next week. What thickness ply are you having Malcolm rip up? Get as many board depth strips (remember the depth of your point motors and add a bit!) done as you can and we will make some sandwich frames. I will leave you to get a bag of holes, screws and bolts we wil get from Coxhoe timber. I do a better tutorial on uploading one handed (with a decent pint in the other one!) Mike P.S. Found the laser cut ply track templates and the decent metal one for cassettes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Might be able to make a start tomorrow mid-shift. Helen's birthday on Saturday, then demonstrating at Middlesbrough on Sunday. If you fancy a go at the "to do" list that Helen has got for me, I am sure we can get them done middle of next week. What thickness ply are you having Malcolm rip up? Get as many board depth strips (remember the depth of your point motors and add a bit!) done as you can and we will make some sandwich frames. I will leave you to get a bag of holes, screws and bolts we wil get from Coxhoe timber. I do a better tutorial on uploading one handed (with a decent pint in the other one!) Mike P.S. Found the laser cut ply track templates and the decent metal one for cassettes. Great stuff mate, not sure if there is enough off cuts to make sides but have a fair bit of MDF &/or other timber we can use, also have a wide selection of holes/screws/bolts. Tomorrow mid shift will be great, I have to be away for about 4.15 as I have a retirement do to go to. I also have some alignment dowels here and am making a jig for them as I type, will it be bacon or sausage sarnies you will be wanting? Using cobalt point motors so depth shouldn't be as much of a problem, give me a ring/txt so I can get sorted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
durham light infantry Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 You can now see the man himself on his avatar. Good start made on the 4 scenic boards, with a nice curve on the 2 outer ones to draw the viewer in. Over to Doug who will chart the progress from here, board construction will resume next week. Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Well we got a start with the baseboards this morning and I have to say a big thank you to Mike for his help, especially for sorting me an avatar and showing me how to upload pictures, speaking of which........ two of the boards laid on the floor another of the boards being worked on in the garage basic layout of scenic boards (Edited to try & sort pics) will sort a few more pics out and get them posted soon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
puddlejumper Posted May 17, 2014 Author Share Posted May 17, 2014 Clearly I have not got a clue how to put pictures on here!! Back to the drawing board for me then...........aarrghhhhhhh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Hello Doug, Displaying images in RMWeb posts, first of all obtain this free program Irfan View http://www.irfanview.com/ download both the program and the plugins/add ons. Do not worry about downloading it, Irfan Skiljan has been developing this since about 1999. It's often referred to as the No 1 on the planet image viewer. Within the program there is a simple resize facility, using that resize your pics to about 750 pixels long side and with a file size of about 150k. I can do a little tutorial if you would like me to. Having done that load your pic to Tiny Pic http://tinypic.com/ join the site, use the 'Upload' facility and when your pic is on the site click on the little window thats says; 'IMG Code for Forums & Message Boards' the code will be highlighted, press CTRL+C and then go to your message and press CTRL+V and the code will be copied into your message. Doing this means 2 things, 1/. you don't clog up RMWebs image gallery and 2/. you can hotlink (that's what its called) the pic to any other forum or website This is one I've just done, if you do a right click on it you will see the Tiny Pic link. [Edit] you'll have to take my word for that RMW's new image thingy just opens the image lol It's a scan of a building I'm making for my new layout Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Hi Doug & Jim, there's already a little tutorial - klick me! Regards Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Read Posted May 17, 2014 Share Posted May 17, 2014 Hello Armin, That's Reely Grate saves me doing another one Cheers - Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted May 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 17, 2014 It is easy to make curved beams with ply strips and wood blocks Barry Norman style but if the inner is a fraction shorter the beam will curve. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
durham light infantry Posted May 18, 2014 Share Posted May 18, 2014 The 2 outer scenic boards are cut at a slight angle for a number of reasons; 1) the track layout at Seahouses was all straight parallel, it looks like a train set! 2) To draw the viewer into the centre of the layout and hopefully negate some of the above. 3) Having cut 1 board at an angle we had to cut the other 1 to suit to pair them up for transit! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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