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Kirley's Workbench

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00 Works UG Class locomotive.

 

A short video showing the conversation to DCC and some test running.

 

 

 

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BUT Railcars 900 Series.

 

The last of the BUT build was 4 Railcars from the 900 Series, I did two in UTA livery

 

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and the others in NIR colours.

 

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The trouble with BUT Railcars is you have to build the coaches to match them, but I think I'll wait for a while before starting.

 

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Nice work Kieran,they look fantastic. The attention to detail with the door handles etc really lifts them to a great standard, well done

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It's been a month since I built anything so I started on something simple to get me going again.  It's five of Leslie McAllister's kits which I got last October at the Dublin Show.

 

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Once the glue cures and they are cleaned I'll get some colour on them.  Nice kits except for the fiddly brake gear.

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Love the railcars - like DMUs this side of the water, to me they are far more interesting in model form than the prototypes - though having a view out front was rather splendid. Wagons look good too.

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Some paint on the wagons.

 

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Just the decals to add.

 

 

 

 

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IRM site: John I used Halfords Red Primer and before the second coat dried it got a spray of Halfords grey primer from a good distance to take the edge off it. The roofs were done in same Grey primer and then a light spray of Railmatch roof dirt. I used the Railmatch on the floors of the Flats and used a cotton bud to wipe most of it off before it dried. All easy options rather than use the airbrush, I hate the whole cleaning process, 5 sec spray to 5 mins cleaning.

 

 

Hi Kieran.  

 

They look really well.  Love the tractor on the flat wagon.  Interested to read over on the other channel that you successfully and creatively used aerosols for the paint work.  I like the idea of 'taking the edge' off the red with a dusting of the grey, it worked really well.  I use halfords aerosol for priming, but I seem to waste an enormous amount of primer due to the 'fire extinguisher' control of the halfords cans.  Like you I find cleaning airbrush tedious, but I can now do it in about 2 mins after using water based acrylics.  I find masking the most tedious aspect of paining, it takes forever, e.g: 50mins of masking last night, 10mins airbrush, then clean up.  

 

How do you apply decals?  Do you use gloss varnish and then finish in matt or satin after the decals have been applied to seal, or direct to matt finish?

 

Cheers.  Noel

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UG Class Locomotive.

 

It's been worked hard and the day to day grime and dirt has taken it's toll, but it hides those cream coloured boiler bands.

 

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Looks more like the real thing, to me anyway.

 

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That looks like how I remember No. 49. Excellent weathering.

 

Can I ask how so that I too can get rid of those cream boiler bands.

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Can I ask how so that I too can get rid of those cream boiler bands.

 

I took the easy way out by just spraying light coats of 'Roof Black' until they disappeared but it took a few coats to do it.  The proper way would have been to remove them using a fibre glass brush or scalpel to gently take them away before weathering. 

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CIE Skeleton Wagon

 

Completed two of Provincial Wagons kits.

 

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The skeleton structure has been well represented on this kit so it's a pity that it will be covered up by its container load.

 

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Had a go at a second CIE Plough Van (SSM Kits).

 

 

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Nice job Kieran,like the livery and lining,the hard work has paid off. A few six wheelers next!!

 

Building a brass 6 wheel coach

 

The 6 wheelers have eventually arrived on the Work Bench Andy.  I discovered Bill Bedford (Mousa Models) did kits for BCDR 6 wheel coaches. I got three kits but decided to complete one first rather than build the 3 together. I started with the 5 comp. Oldbury Third.

 

This is what you get.

 

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But there are no instructions, absolutely no instructions!

 

I started on the chassis and as you can see in the picture below the wheels are held in with hi-hat bearings which fit into the bearing holders. They in turn fit onto to a piece of brass wire (supplied) which run into two points as marked by the black arrows on the picture.

 

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The middle axle required modifications to the wheel set. The wheels were removed from their 2mm axle and replaced by a piece of 2mm brass tubing. The tubing was cut to just cover the wheel bosses.

 

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A 1 mm pin point axle was obtained and was inserted in the tube.

 

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The 1 mm axle in a 2mm bearing allows sufficient movement in the middle axle so as not to derail on curves, at least that is the theory.

 

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I hope I have explained it clearly enough as it took me a long time to get my head around it. (Apologies about the quality of the above 3 pictures).

 

 

‘E’s’

 

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I had no idea what these were for but Richard McLaughlin at the North Down Show not only explained their purpose but also put one in place for me. As you can see in the picture below how the ‘E’s’ cleverly hold the top and bottom half of the coach side exactly in place.

 

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Next was a start on completing the chassis. The sides to be applied and you have to laminate 3 separate pieces to make the buffer beams.

 

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Running boards had to be constructed.

 

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Even the brakes had to be laminated.

 

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I’m glad I decided to build one first as it takes two or three times as long to figure out what goes where than actually soldering it in place.

 

Next is window frames,  grab & door handles, ends.  It's going to be a slow build.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Jeepers Kieran just reading and looking at the photos has blown my mind!! You will have some unique 6 wheelers when finished. Keep up the good work,rather you than me!

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Nice Kieran.  Respect!  I have huge admiration for folk who have the perseverance and skill to take on brass.  Noel

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I wondered wether a Hornby  B12 might make a starting point for a Baltic? or is that putting ideas in your head!   :sungum:

 

A BALTIC TANK FROM A SILK PURSE (BCDR Class 22 Locomotive)

 

The above suggestion from Mick did indeed put ideas into my head. I ended up with a B12 and in my scrap box I found the backend of a 4P and wondered what would they look like together.

 

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The wheels on the B12 were too large so I got some 5’6” ones from Markits.  The wheel spacing was wrong and this is where I fell into an enormous piece of good luck.

 

Anthony, (from this site) took on board the engineering required for the next stage.  The Hornby chassis was stripped down to the metal and using his superbly equipped workshop he re-drilled the axle holes to the correct spacing.

 

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Then he constructed new con rods by etching them, the man’s skills knows no bounds.

 

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This is what I ended up with.

 

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With the body of the B12 and the bunker of the 4P could it be made into something resembling a Baltic Tank?

 

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As you can see in the next picture the running board on the body needed to be changed.  The running board on the B12 drops down just past the driving wheels.  I cut these sections of running board and reversed them working out approximately in the right place for the Baltic, luck still running good.

 

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The running board was extended back to the bunker using plasticard strips and this material was used in the construction of the side tanks. A Belpaire type firebox was also fabricated.

 

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Tanks, bunker, cab sides and roof were constructed and fitted onto what remained of the original body.

 

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The dome on the Baltic is quite big and the only one I had in the spares box was approximately the right diameter. I needed to add height and before I had used fillers but this time I melted some white metal solder onto the dome and filed it into shape.

 

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Originally I had intended to model this loco in its UTA days but at the last minute I changed my mind and went for the BCDR .  That meant I had to remove the built up bunker. 

 

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Extra bits required at the side and front of the smokebox.

 

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This is how the chassis looks joined together.

 

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And the underneath of the body shell showing all the ‘bodging’ required.  I managed to retain the original nut housing underneath the ‘coal’ as a fixing point to the chassis.

 

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Now it was time to give it a coat of primer and identify all the bits I had missed. 

 

 

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Blue sky thinking.. many applications of filler, sanding  and priming over 5 days to get to this stage.

 

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Finally it’s ready to go back to Tony’s workshop to have the cylinders positioned and the valve gear added. I’m using the valve gear from a Black 5 that he is going to adapt to fit. 

 

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My luck is still holding out.

 

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The "E"s on the County Down kits are the door hinges,nice kits,i've done three of them,just need to build something to put on the front.Andy.

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Boy Kieran,is there no boundaries to what you will tackle! A serious piece of craftsmanship,excellent work,well done. I suspect your model will run better that the originals,deceivingly underpowered beasts for their size I believe.

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