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I can’t say I’ve ever used Dettol (seems a bit too weak), nor have I used super strip or similar 'specific' products as they seem too expensive to me for the amount you get. 90% IPA is my favourite (in ale form too!), and I’ve left a body in there for 2 weeks with no damage. It shifts most things, and may require cleaning and soaking twice if there are multiple layers but just plonk it in and observe. When the surface has bubbled I test it by using a cocktail stick to see if the paint will peel, before getting all the paint off with a toothbrush. Then you can sieve and filter the remaining gunk to get coloured but useable IPA back. I’ve also used Fairy spray but it didn’t seem to work well, and only touched the transfers on an RTR coach, not the paint. Have a go and see, IPA and Dettol are cheap as chips off the internet and so is the Fairy product.

 

Good luck!

 

Jack.

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what IPa do you use for your models and where could i find a bottle or two? 

 

this is what i have been recomended on the land of facebook. its a paste that you cover the model with and then place the pasted model in a zip lock bag overnight before giving it a scrub the next day. not sure how good it is but if it does what it says it does it would be perfect.

 

https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/modelstrip-modelstrip/

 

jake

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The only problem for me with that is the amount you get and the fact it instructs you to wash it down the sink, it seems a waste.

 

Here is similar to what I use, I think I found 3x litre bottles for £15 or so when I bought mine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232521121358?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F0%252F0%252F0%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252F232521121358%2526rvr_id%253D0%2526rvr_ts%253Da35449451640ab4c8e91da42fff4f13b&ul_noapp=true

 

The other plus with IPA is you can use it for other things such as paint brush cleaning and I know a couple of people who use it when ballasting instead of water as it’s 'thinner' (less viscous). You could also use it to remove nail varnish, if you’re so inclined....

 

Jack.

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Guest teacupteacup

I've always used Dettol (original brown formula), it works a treat.  Remove the glazing and sit the shell in Dettol for 24 hours, scrub off with an old toothbrush, then rinse with luke warm water.  If it needs more, just put it back in the Dettol, it can be used many times.  So far the past few weeks I've stripped 5 bodyshells in the same liquid.

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is it just the brown dettol you can pick up from any supermarket? if it is and it can strip rail match off then it could be worth s go. even more so with the staff discount added to get it on the cheap.

 

the IPA could well be worth a go as well. surprised at the free postage so £11 is not bad at all. do you use it much the same way just pour it in a tub and submerge the body for 24hrs?

 

thanks, Jake

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Guest teacupteacup

Yeah just the ordinary Dettol. Put in a jar/tub and let it do it's thing. It strips back the finish to the raw plastic. I haven't used ipa so can't comment on that

 

Check my rtr work bench link below to see the effect dettol has

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just managed to have a look and must say im very impressed with the results. suppose if worse comes to worse will just end up with a bodyshell that smells like a hospital and is clean enough to eat my dinner off!

 

got a couple of spare nose ends which i can use as a test for the dettol paint strip method on Bachmann factory finish so will see how they react over the weekend. 

 

thanks, Jake

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is it just the brown dettol you can pick up from any supermarket? if it is and it can strip rail match off then it could be worth s go. even more so with the staff discount added to get it on the cheap.

 

the IPA could well be worth a go as well. surprised at the free postage so £11 is not bad at all. do you use it much the same way just pour it in a tub and submerge the body for 24hrs?

 

thanks, Jake

Best results are from 92-93% IPA. Most is sold as 99% so needs a bit of water added.

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body has arrived and unforunatly a little bit of work needed other than trying to take the paint off. The boiler exaust has been blanked and both safety valves removed. Not too hard to sort as thankfully the blank glued over the exhaust shot off with minimal pressure and new valves will be done with small evergreen rod. 

 

Here is a pic of it out of the box. As you can see the paints a bit thick in places

post-12315-0-96290000-1532020927_thumb.jpg

 

Still not 100% sure on what method I am going to use to strip it. will see how the Dettol does with the spare nose end I have off a 37/4 and go from there.

 

Thanks, Jake

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So took the plunge and splashed out the extravagnt amount of £7 for two large bottle of dettol and set about the knacked 37/0 body I had from a previous attempt at paint stripping which ended up softening the plastic a wreaking the body sides. so far 45 mins in and the railmatch DRS blue which was on it as already started to separate and peel off. Must say im really impressed!

 

Body is due to come out around lunch time tomorrow after a full 24hrs but will check progress after work see how its going. All going well should have 37023 stripped by monday morning.

 

massive shout out to teacup for this method.

 

thanks, Jake

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If you have used the Brown Dettol. Use Gloves when you remove the body from the container. As it can BURN your skin.

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Guest teacupteacup

So took the plunge and splashed out the extravagnt amount of £7 for two large bottle of dettol and set about the knacked 37/0 body I had from a previous attempt at paint stripping which ended up softening the plastic a wreaking the body sides. so far 45 mins in and the railmatch DRS blue which was on it as already started to separate and peel off. Must say im really impressed!

 

Body is due to come out around lunch time tomorrow after a full 24hrs but will check progress after work see how its going. All going well should have 37023 stripped by monday morning.

 

massive shout out to teacup for this method.

 

thanks, Jake

Remember to scrub the paint off with an old toothbrush before putting it near any water as that'll cause the loose paint to congeal.  Scrub away as much as you can then scrub and rinse with a gentle flow of lukewarm water to get the rest off.  Dont be disheartened if it needs another dunk in the Dettol, it takes it all off by the 2nd dunk max!

 

Good advice about wearing gloves when scrubbing off.  I get round this by doing one end of the bodyshell at a time

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so far have found the railmatch DRS blue has came off the test shell in mostly large chunts taking most of the hlafords primer with it. the remaining primer and Bachmann dutch yellow remains on the body but almost in a semi liquid state being easily manipulated with a cocktail stick. no signs of stange to the body shell appart from that which was already done which is a bonus.

 

not sure if im going to bother stripping the nose on the actual model for repainting or just remove the nose end door latches and just prime and paint it as is.

 

Thanks, Jake

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As it stands the dettol has totally removed 100% of the paint of the kanckered test body, only now really seeing how badly the other stuff attacked it! only problem is after scrubbing with a tooth brush and Dettol and then cleaning with warm water and a little drop of washing up liquid the body seems to feel a tad tacky/sticky if they would be the right words. will check it once its had a chance to fully dry over night.

 

thanks, Jake

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Guest teacupteacup

As it stands the dettol has totally removed 100% of the paint of the kanckered test body, only now really seeing how badly the other stuff attacked it! only problem is after scrubbing with a tooth brush and Dettol and then cleaning with warm water and a little drop of washing up liquid the body seems to feel a tad tacky/sticky if they would be the right words. will check it once its had a chance to fully dry over night.

 

thanks, Jake

Hi Jake

 

If its still tacky, all it needs is another wash down with warm water and a suitable detergent

 

I use anti-bacterial handwash for this, always works well and leaves the body ready for primer

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worked a treat on the test body. You can really see where the plastic has been damaged by the previous attempts (this is the better side than the other!). The mainline repaint body is now ready for its bath in the Dettol now its been fully stripped of all glazing and detail parts. Also decided to replace the roof grill with one from the shawplan range 

 

post-12315-0-10734200-1532339808_thumb.jpg

 

here is the rather battered looking test body. happy I saved it from the bin now and just left it in a darkened corner!

 

thanks, Jake

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Guest teacupteacup

worked a treat on the test body. You can really see where the plastic has been damaged by the previous attempts (this is the better side than the other!). The mainline repaint body is now ready for its bath in the Dettol now its been fully stripped of all glazing and detail parts. Also decided to replace the roof grill with one from the shawplan range 

 

attachicon.gif37.jpg

 

here is the rather battered looking test body. happy I saved it from the bin now and just left it in a darkened corner!

 

thanks, Jake

Glad it worked for you Jake!

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paint hides a number of things......

 

in this case it was the fact the previous numbers where removed with what looks like a screw driver and one of the lower edges of the bonnet has taken a knock and caused a slight bend. Thankfully with the nose end on its not too noticeable so will just be leaving it as is but unfortunately it look slike it will be out with the filler for 3 of the 4 cab sides.

 

 

post-12315-0-33583700-1532891837.jpg

 

unfortunately wont get much done to it at all this week with work and a date with Bruce Dickenson and Co at Newcastle metro arena on Tuesday but hopefully have it ready for primer Thursday.

 

Now the Dettol is sat empty I do have a Bachmann Deltic body sat needing stripped back..... most likely to become 55022 in its blue with silver tanks/grills livery as I already have D9009 in green. not a bad seat to have both ways from Newcastle mind you!

 

post-12315-0-94039900-1532891851_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks, Jake

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well i now have a spare 37/0 split box since 025 has been ordered. not sure what to do with it now. open to sugestions for liverys. might try for 175 in colas if i can get the noses. be nice to have the two i worked on in model form

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Well be a fair while since i posted anything on this, sudden relocation followed by a change of career has had everything up in the air. Not sure how much time i will have for modeling over the next few months but can see that being a problem getting let lose on the 1:1 scale track and infrastructure at long last. 

 

anyway that being said have been finding time here and there to start putting together the next project I have been wanting to do for a while and thats a MOD train.

 

post-12315-0-09476100-1543171791_thumb.jpg

 

just waiting on the oxford rail modern triple pack to come out but have made a start on the cargo with the red BATUS warrior being a Revell model and the currently unfinished one being of the Trumpeter variety. Stole the inspiration for the BATUS one from another form on here showing said APC on a warwell at Didcot, the other one will be receiving a desert and green camo scheme with the other 4 to 7 being the standard army green depending how many flats I decide to get and if I decide to get a FV107 Medic variant again just to add a bit of variety.

 

Also have to say Im very much looking forward to these new deltic models with my eye on at least 3 of them...… one being the dreaded purple one!

 

as for the 37 body its very much still on hold now 37025 has been reserved at my local shop. Im needing a pair of nose ends like the ones fitted to bachmanns 37174 with the white marker lens? think that's how you would describe them. the body is eventually set to become 37175 in its current colas livery as it was one of the three class 37s I worked on in preservation many moons ago. so if anyone has a set of center head code 37/0 nose ends and would like to swap them for the extreamly rare split head code verity feel free to drop a reply.

 

Thanks, Jake

 

 

 

 

 

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Jake

 

You do realize that BATUS is the Royal Army's training camp based in Canada and not in a desert and the green and sand camo is used because BATUS is situated on the great planes of Canada where there is a mixture of dry grass and green grass hence the colours used.

 

post-6665-0-78800500-1543318760.jpg

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Thanks for the info pete, as i say its just to break up the standard green when they are all coupled up. have noticed what looks like an aditional ammo can on the side of the turret so will need to do a bit more digging to see what else is missing from the kit.

 

one thing im bad for is finding things and forgetting to save the links to the ruddy things. thankfully found some more close up pictures of the prototype showing the other side of the tank. need to play about with the best way to replicate the flaking of the red paint to expose the green and yellow scheme under it. 

 

http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=11611.0

 

thanks, jake

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Wow nearly a year since the last update.... my enthusiasm for railway modelling almost ground to a halt since getting a job on the real thing but slowly getting back to it. Decals ordered for 37175 so hopefully get that done before 37025 turns up. Still needing to dig out the northern belle and get that finished once decals are sourced. Hoping to get started on a project which is sort of work related that I have not seen done yet but could be wrong so watch this space. In the mean time have I missed something. Popped into my local model shop to find they are no longer getting the triple pack of warwell wagons in? Hopefully I’m wrong other wise I have at least six spare warriors now!

 

anyway hopefully not as long till my next update

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