hayfield Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Some time ago I started to build aa 0-16.5 narrow gauge layout, spurred on after a visit to the Ffestioiog I decided to try and make chaired track and use finescale code 75 rail, trouble was it did not look right and I got disillusioned with it and the build ground to a halt. Whilst I have many irons in the fire. we decided to have a new project on the go at the club whilst we get an agreement on a new 4 mm scale layout. Hopefully I can get some help to push the layout along, first job is to change the rail to code 100 flatbottom and use spike construction. I have used Exactoscale 7 mm 10" wide timbers, the ballast I picked up at Railex 2 to 3 years ago, a real mixture of sizes but ideal for narrow gauge I have some old Hamblings code 100 gauges, and to start off I remove 1 rail and fit a new one gauging off the old rail. Other than at rail ends where I spoke both sides of the rail, to speed up laying the rail initially I will spike one spike per sleeper, inside on one, outside on the next Here you see me drilling the hole Next I fit the spike. one inside on one sleeper the next one outside Here is the spike pushed fully home The common crossings are made as stand alone units The bottom of the rails showing the brass shim which holds all together Here the same is done with the check rails connected to the stock rails, excess brass shim not cut back yet Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 John, Well, I’m following just to see where you go with this! Still considering a move to On30 - mainly because I want to build structures in 1/48 scale! I am where I am........ Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Pete its something I have been interested in for some time and planned to build it at the club, other things got in the way. A member built the boards for me, 2 are 42" x 18" with the storage yard board being 24" x 18". I now have plenty of stock, mainly kits waiting to be built. I think the code 100 rail looks much better would be very interesting if I could obtain some old cast chairs for code 100 bullhead rail. Still the spiked rail looks quite good The Bachmann locos are very good but not very British, there are plenty of decent RTR chassis available, but the Branchlines chassis take the Peco locos to another level. The larger scale does open up lots more opportunities than the smaller scale. Well worth having a dabble Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 26, 2015 Author Share Posted June 26, 2015 Been a busy week and not much time to build much, however now learning to speed up laying the spikes, start at one end with a spike either side of the rail on the first sleeper. Then fit one spike on each sleeper inside on one then outside on the next, continue using this process till you reach the other end, when it ends with a spike both sides of the rail. if happy fit the rest of the spikes, I find it quicker to drill holes first then fit the spikes First common crossing is being fitted. final fitting will be done once the stock rail is fitted. Next question will be platform height, which will be a case of trial and error with coaches in place to see what looks right Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 Judging by the amount of narrow gauge stock available second hand, I would guess many have the odd item stored away for a time they may have the space and time to build a layout, and perhaps have grand schemes in mind. I would suggest take the items out and build them. Next how about building a cameo board which could even be integrated into a larger layout at a later date. For 0-16.5 trackwork can be simple, as many have the odd bit of 00 gauge track spare, and for sleepers coffee stirrers are easy to obtain (even can buy in bulk very cheaply). The only items you would have to pay for is a code 100 roller-gauge (Markits of Marcway) and some track spikes (Peco) if you want to be extravagant 7 mm scale ply sleeper strip from C&L. A short piece of board could be 12" x 6" and plenty of fun can be had trying out scenic effects which would be too small in 4 mm scale, though nothing wrong with 009 scenic plank I am using rail from some old second hand flexi track, most of which are short off-cuts. For a larger layout perhaps buying new rail from Peco may be better, but for a no/low cost cameo recycling is the best way. I have stated buying a roller gauge, to start with though a simple gauge could be made from either thick plasticard or aluminium strip I have even seen wooded gauges, perhaps a holiday project !!. As I said I used ply sleeper strip initially with chaired track glued in place, so its a simple job changing the rails over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 I have stated buying a roller gauge, to start with though a simple gauge could be made from either thick plasticard or aluminium strip I have even seen wooded gauges, perhaps a holiday project !!. Hardly worth making a gauge at all for that length, when you could do this! You could probably build an entire micro layout with it!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 BG John No problem in using the digital calliper, might be easier to use it to make something that is free standing though. You also have the option of having either nice and tidy trackwork or something more rustic. Modern heritage lines have well laid and ballasted track, on the other hand prior to closure. If its a cameo one could go to town making rotting sleepers etc. But it still must be in gauge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 Had a spate of tidying up the work bench (and other areas) as well as doing a bit of DIY. The weekend was a write off as far as modelling is concerned due to village fairs, wedding receptions and birthday parties. Still all went well Starting to fit the switch rails, one problem using spiked track on closed cell foam and ballasted with chaired track is getting the rail joins the same height, with this in mind I will need to re think the tiebars. Initially I will fit standard PCB ones which will hold the tips (points) of the switch rails in line with the stock rails. Will do this at the club on Thursday as I need 4 pairs of hands to fit them One stock rail and 2 switch rails needed to finish the first board, the 2 main scenic boards in view, both being 3' 6" long. The next board showing the track work, Right hand track is the engine shed, centre off to the fiddle yard, left to a canal basin scene which hides (large warehousing) the fiddle yard on a 2' third board Next job is to decide on a platform height and how far away it should be from the rails, and of course wiring up Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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