9430 Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 Wow, if my 7mm ones come out half as good as this I'll be chuffed. 9430. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Very nice Nigel very nice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted November 25, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2015 Hello, After a month of painfully slow progress, here are some pics of the loco, almost finished. The pics highlighted some areas needing a bit of attention, though the enlarged photos are a bit brutal and probably make things seem a bit worse than they are really. There are one or two errors which I think I will have to live with: the footplate steps aren't great, the wires to the handrail mounted lubricator boxes aren't as straight as I'd have liked, the handrails likewise. The latter were a pain to fix and kept coming loose almost every time a tried to clean them. Now to fill the boiler with lead, then paint the body etc. Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted November 25, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2015 I think you have made a fabulous job of that Nigel. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silverstreak Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 I take my hat off to you. I had to go back to the start of this thread just to recheck this was indeed a 2mm model !!! --- quite superb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9430 Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Looking great. Which one is it going to be? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Excellent job Nigel! Really hard to believe it is N scale. I am at a similar point with my 4mm version and had a tough time with the footplate detail, handrail/piping, etc. none of which was in the 'kit'. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted November 26, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2015 Looking great. Which one is it going to be? Excellent job Nigel! Really hard to believe it is N scale. I am at a similar point with my 4mm version and had a tough time with the footplate detail, handrail/piping, etc. none of which was in the 'kit'. Steve Hello Steve and 9430, Thanks for the comments. It will be 49426, a Patricroft loco. I have a pic showing it with 'D' slots in the tender frames rather than the type I have modelled, and later it got a tender cab, but in my version of modelling reality it acquired the tender I've modelled late 1958. I found the detailing hard work too. I used 0.1mm nickel silver wire for the lubricator box pipes and the ones on the right hand side broke in two after soldering to the boiler side. Soldering them on was hard work anyway, so I attempted a repair by supergluing short sections in place, and that's why they look bent on that side. Its funny how bits look so small when you are working on them, then so big (and overscale) once they are finished and attached to the model. For the piping round the sides of the smokebox, I used 38 or 41 swg copper or phos bronze wire. I think the piping needs to be represented but it can end up looking like a dog's dinner. I hope a multitude of sins will be hidden by the paintwork. As you say, there's stuff needing doing that's not in the kit. I used castings for the safety valves (modified from a round base version), dome and chimney. I didn't like the smokebox door casting I had, so I turned my own. Therapeutic, simple lathe work, and you can get a better finish than with castings, though the latter can be cleaned up of course. It will be good to see your 4mm version, Steve. Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Hello Steve and 9430, Thanks for the comments. It will be 49426, a Patricroft loco. I have a pic showing it with 'D' slots in the tender frames rather than the type I have modelled, and later it got a tender cab, but in my version of modelling reality it acquired the tender I've modelled late 1958. I found the detailing hard work too. I used 0.1mm nickel silver wire for the lubricator box pipes and the ones on the right hand side broke in two after soldering to the boiler side. Soldering them on was hard work anyway, so I attempted a repair by supergluing short sections in place, and that's why they look bent on that side. Its funny how bits look so small when you are working on them, then so big (and overscale) once they are finished and attached to the model. For the piping round the sides of the smokebox, I used 38 or 41 swg copper or phos bronze wire. I think the piping needs to be represented but it can end up looking like a dog's dinner. I hope a multitude of sins will be hidden by the paintwork. As you say, there's stuff needing doing that's not in the kit. I used castings for the safety valves (modified from a round base version), dome and chimney. I didn't like the smokebox door casting I had, so I turned my own. Therapeutic, simple lathe work, and you can get a better finish than with castings, though the latter can be cleaned up of course. It will be good to see your 4mm version, Steve. Nig H Hi Nigel, My 4mm G2A has finally made it into the paintshop... It did take a bit longer than expected due mainly to the shortcomings of the kit but also to my wanting to model all the cab detail I could, none of which was included in the kit... Hopefully you are still making good progress with yours and I look forward to seeing more photos. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted December 9, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 9, 2015 Hi Nigel, My 4mm G2A has finally made it into the paintshop... G2A-Paintshop-1.jpg G2A-Paintshop-2.jpg It did take a bit longer than expected due mainly to the shortcomings of the kit but also to my wanting to model all the cab detail I could, none of which was included in the kit... Cab.jpg Hopefully you are still making good progress with yours and I look forward to seeing more photos. Steve Hello Steve, Your G2 looks fantastic. Great cab interior, and you've done a cracking job on the detail not included in the kit. I'm looking forward to seeing the completed loco. I have painted my loco body and have been doing the buffer beams today. All that's left is the cabside numbers and the backhead, then crew and coal. Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Hi it's great to see both of these as I have two to build and a third being built for me all in 2mm They are both very nice John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted December 20, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 20, 2015 Here are some pics of the now finished loco, maybe one or two things to tweak. Firstly as freshly painted. And some after weathering. I may have got carried away with the rust powder, so I might try to get rid of some of it. The boiler bands look a bit wide, but fairly low height wise. Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Worsdell forever Posted December 20, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2015 Now that is seriously impressive, I've been watching from the start and it was hard to believe it's 2mm. Did this one run without tender crests? Looking forward to your next build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branwell Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Looks spot on to me does that Nigel - wouldn't have noticed the rust unless you'd mentioned it. If anything, it doesn't look mucky enough! Must get on and make a start on mine. David V. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Hi Nigel, That is superb! I would say the weathering/rust is very lifelike. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 I could easily believe the model was 7mm scale (and a good model at that) if not told it was 2mm scale which really takes it off the dial. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Here are some pics of the now finished loco, maybe one or two things to tweak. Firstly as freshly painted. LNWR SuperD (63).jpg LNWR SuperD (66).jpg And some after weathering. I may have got carried away with the rust powder, so I might try to get rid of some of it. LNWR SuperD (68).jpg LNWR SuperD (69).jpg LNWR SuperD (70).jpg LNWR SuperD (71).jpg The boiler bands look a bit wide, but fairly low height wise. Nig H Nig That is absolutely superb, when I first looked at the thread I neglected to read the title and thought "that's a nicely weathered Bachman 4mm Super D" you should be commended for the quality of your work. If they did a concourse inspection that model would stand proud among st the best well done. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
9430 Posted December 20, 2015 Share Posted December 20, 2015 Nig, I'm loving it. Judging by the state that the Bescot ones got into I would say that you have gone a bit light on the rust. All the best, 9430. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted December 21, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 21, 2015 Now that is seriously impressive, I've been watching from the start and it was hard to believe it's 2mm. Did this one run without tender crests? Looking forward to your next build. Hello, Thanks for you comment. I have seen a photo of this loco showing the tender apparently without an emblem, unless its submerged under grime. I've also seen a 1960's pic of a G2 with 'LMS' on its tender. Thanks to for all the kind comments from everyone else. Maybe some of you are tempted to try 2mm finescale, and there are some great examples on the 2mm Finescale forum here including Branwell's excellent signal box and Tim Watson's ongoing construction of a LNER P2. Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John lewsey Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Hi Nigel It just looks right I hope minor turn out as well Regards John Ps I'll phone you soon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Now that is seriously impressive, I've been watching from the start and it was hard to believe it's 2mm..... Stunning. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Hi Nigel, I have to say a superb build! I have one question re the brake rigging. How do you construct it so it does not short across the frames? Gordon A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted January 25, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 25, 2016 Hi Nigel, I have to say a superb build! I have one question re the brake rigging. How do you construct it so it does not short across the frames? Gordon A Hello Gordon, The upper end of the brake hanger is soldered to nickel silver rod bent to an 'L' shape, with the longer side soldered flat against the inside of the frames. At the bottom of the hangers, nickel silver rod is threaded through the hole in the hanger, then two sets of pull rods (not prototypical I know), and finally through the brake hanger on the other side. This is repeated for all the brake hanger pairs. I then solder the hangers to the rod and the rod to the inside of the pull rods, check its all soldered well and finally snip away the section of rod between the pull rods, thus isolating each side of the chassis. A variation of this is to snip a short middle section of rod away, then slide some electrical wire insulation over the exposed ends of the rod to give extra support. I find in practice that as long as I use a reasonable amount of solder on the joins, the result is strong enough to cope with all but the roughest handling. Hope I've explained this Ok, but please ask if I've confused you. My post of 26 August 2015 has a pic showing the assembly prior to removing the middle section of the rods - probably easier to follow than my explanation! Regards, Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro_man Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 After almost 2 months, the Brassmasters 4mm G2A finally emerges from the workshop painted, assembled and weathered. It was a tough build, probably less tough than Nigels 2mm version, but it eventually turned out OK. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted February 10, 2016 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 10, 2016 After almost 2 months, the Brassmasters 4mm G2A finally emerges from the workshop painted, assembled and weathered. It was a tough build, probably less tough than Nigels 2mm version, but it eventually turned out OK. Fantastic work Steve, I'm glad you've posted pics of the finished version as the in-build shots had been very impressive. The cab detail is great! As a matter of interest, what do you think of the Bachmann G2s? Regards, Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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