Buckingham West

[Richard Mawer]

Hello Rich

 

I see you have sorted YouTube.

 

As others have said - nice sound.  I love the noise of the metal wheels on the rails - no need for sound chips I say.

 

Ray

Yes, took me a while! .

 

I was pleasantly surprised by the sound. I'm convinced that is more realistic for a train in normal motion, than all this chuffing you seem to get with chips in steam. Ok, if they are pulling away, or up a steep incline then there was a huge amount of exhaust (often far deeper than DCC sound can get) but apart from that, it seems to have been hissing, wheezing, and clanking when slower and chittering when at speed. I've yet to hear decent steam sounds.

 

Diesels with sound are brilliant.

[john dew]

ADVICE REQUIRED

I am going to use Woodlands Scenics fine ballast. What colour(s) is best for 1930s steam in Buckinghamshire/Oxfordshire? Not grey, I know. But light brown or dark brown? Or what combination/mix?

I guess a blast all over the tracks and just beyond the sleeper edges with sleeper grime from lifecolours would add a lot of realism?

Views?

Sorry I missed this........if you haven't bought your ballast yet it might be worth checking out DCC Concepts site, they have just announced a new range of ballast material that look rather good (usual disclaimer)

 

Regardless I agree about light and dark brown depending on usage.....I have always regretted using grey on Granby

 

Best wishes

[Richard Mawer]

ASHES TO ASHES

 

I've loved operating the layout. So much so that development has slowed right down. However, the timetable has just reached the start of Friday. And Friday is the day that the ash is removed from Buckingham Shed. So I have had to make some ash loads for wagons.

 

These are a piece of polystyrene with fine grey ballast on top. I lined the wagons with clingfilm first so the loads would not get glued in situ. I put a square of steel sheet on the polystyrene before pouring the grey ballast on top. This allows me to remove the loads by magnet. Incidentally, I have changed the small ferous weights under the coal loads and replaced them with squares of sheet steel. The loaded coal train goes up the incline each day with 23 wagons. Each load had a 5g weight underneath. Exchanging them for steel has removed over 100g!!! No wonder the locos were struggling.

 

Anyway, back to the ash loads, instead of just using watered down pva with a couple drops of washing up liquid, I added a couple of squeezes of white acrylic paint. I wanted a mottled grey/white effect. Ash is so hard to replicate, but it looks like that to me. I dribbled the mixture over the ballast and then put the wagons in the airing cupboard overnight.

 

 

 

Here they are on top of the cylinder.

 

 

Once mostly dry, I take the clingfilm off to let the lower parts dry. I'm pleased with the results. I think they look reasonably realistic.

 

 

 

 

 

DUST TO DUST

 

Well sort of. Ballast actually. I've made a start. I have a test track glued down. I've made up a ballast spreader kit too. I am going to trial different glues. I want it to remain flexible on the foam, so pva is out. I'll use the grey ballast for the trials. I won't be using it on the layout. I also need to trial the right mix of browns for the acual ballast.

 

 

All the sidings and yards would have been covered with ciders and general crud, not stone ballast. I'm trialling different types of paste/filler. It needs to be flexible, cheap and easy to apply. A viscous paint or similar sounds good. I've tried flexible filler/caulk. It works well. Thats the white stuff on the grey square. You can trowel it on. It doesn't crack when bent, and does flex. Might work out quite expensive though.

 

Next I'm going to try artex style textured paint.

[Mike 84C]

I have my multi fuel stove going at the moment, if you would like some ash, very fine with greys, browns and a bit of black please pm me. I think a small tea strainer from a £ shop would make a good applicator. 

         Regards Mick

[RJS1977]

Sidings covered with ciders? I thought that only happened in Zomerzet!

[Richard Mawer]

BALLAST AND GLUE

 

I think I've got the hang of the ballast spreader.

 

I have trialled two strengths of glue/water mix on some grey ballast. I'm trying out Wicks multipurpose flooring adhesive. Ray H of this Parish (Virney Junction) suggested it. It's got vinyl in it so hopefully won't set rock solid. I'm looking for some flex. Seems a bit cream coloured so far. Lets see how it dries.

 

 

The new white patch on the black square is artex. I'm hoping again that its flexible when dry.

[Richard Mawer]

PLATFORM SOUL

 

Brackley Road finally has a platform. Needs a bit of tidying up.

 

 

 

I need to add the fence to the rear, separating the carriage siding, but I'm going to do this one in GW Light Stone.

 

There will be mills/factories covering the plug sockets.

[St Enodoc]

PLATFORM SOUL

 

Brackley Road finally has a platform. Needs a bit of tidying up.

 

IMG_6679.JPG

 

IMG_6680.JPG

 

I need to add the fence to the rear, separating the carriage siding, but I'm going to do this one in GW Light Stone.

 

There will be mills/factories covering the plug sockets.

Rich, if it's not too late may I suggest making the ramps less step? 1 in 8 would be typical.

[Richard Mawer]

Rich, if it's not too late may I suggest making the ramps less step? 1 in 8 would be typical.

 

John

 

Thanks for the advice. The ramp looks steeper than it actually is because it also bends away from the camera. However, it is still steep than 1 in 8. Hmmmm It is made from the Metcalf kit, and the platform top is now scored. I don't have another sheet and I am loath to buy a complete kit for a few inches of "tarmac". I shall just have to try and hide it. A bit like the plug sockets!!!

 

Thanks again though.

 

Rich

[Richard Mawer]

BALLAST AND GLUE

 

I think I've got the hang of the ballast spreader.

 

I have trialled two strengths of glue/water mix on some grey ballast. I'm trying out Wicks multipurpose flooring adhesive. Ray H of this Parish (Virney Junction) suggested it. It's got vinyl in it so hopefully won't set rock solid. I'm looking for some flex. Seems a bit cream coloured so far. Lets see how it dries.

 

IMG_6682.JPG

 

The new white patch on the black square is artex. I'm hoping again that its flexible when dry.

 

I am delighted to say that the Artex has set and is very flexible. I think I shall use that in the Evenley goods yard and see how it goes. I will mix some black paint in, but it will only go light grey. It will have to be sprayed over with black and sleeper grime anyway. I think I will try pressing some Woodland scenic Cinders (not Ciders) into the surface once it has half dried as well. I need to consult some books for general colouring.

 

The vinyl adhesive worked a treat on the track too. The ballast is firmly glued to the foam, even with the weaker mix. But in both cases it is still flexible. I can bend the foam up to the sleeper edges and the ballast just goes with it and does not crack or lose adhesion. I can still squash the track into the foam. I was after that amount of flexibility in the track still.

 

Now to trial mixing the ballast colours to get a 1930's steam railway type of colour pallet. I know from my club days not to use a single colour so I am thinking of using the standard Brown as my base colour with a touch of buff added for the main lines, some iron ore added in the Evenley environs and some dark brown added I the other station areas, suitably sprayed over particularly where locos stand.

 

Fingers crossed.

[Richard Mawer]

AND THE RESULTS ARE IN......

 

 

 

So I have learnt that I will need to be more careful with not leaving ballast on the sleepers. It looks wrong and sloppy.

 

I also need to mix the adhesive and water better. There are a few very obvious "snots of cream glue that stand out a mile. I need to make sure there aren't any when I do it for real. They don't sink in or go away as it dries.

 

Now to consult "The Big Four in Colour" to get the ballast colours sorted.

[s182ggu]

AND THE RESULTS ARE IN......

IMG_6684.JPG

IMG_6685.JPG

So I have learnt that I will need to be more careful with not leaving ballast on the sleepers. It looks wrong and sloppy.

I also need to mix the adhesive and water better. There are a few very obvious "snots of cream glue that stand out a mile. I need to make sure there aren't any when I do it for real. They don't sink in or go away as it dries.

Now to consult "The Big Four in Colour" to get the ballast colours sorted.

Hi Rich

Maybe it's just my viewing of your photos, but the ballast you've used looks very 'fine' to me. Which ballast have you used and which applicator?

[Richard Mawer]

Hi Rich

Maybe it's just my viewing of your photos, but the ballast you've used looks very 'fine' to me. Which ballast have you used and which applicator?

 

Hi Graham

 

Its Woodlands Scenics Fine Ballast. I've looked at the Medium and worked out that the stone sizes are about half the size of a human head! So I've gone for Fine.

 

I'm using the Golden Valley spreader.

 

You've made me look hard at the ballast and now I'm thinking the shoulders are too wide for 1930's. Looking at The Big Four in Colour and GWR in the 1930's the shoulders seem to be very narrow and close to the sleeper ends along main lines. There is even a cess between the running lines in many places. That might be a hang over from the Broad Gauge days. I think general along main lines I need to find a narrower spreader. I simply have too much track to do with a spoon and a brush. I need to get some scenic progress before I die! Does anyone know if the Proses spreader produces narrower shoulders?

[KNP]

Agree about the width of the ballast, are you going to paint the track before ballasting?

I used Carrs N gauge (2mm) ballast in two tones of grey (light and medium) but wasn't to selective in the mixing to get an uneven mottled effect, then used Carrs ash for additional colour variations especially sidings and where loco's stood normally added to the drying grey ballast.

[Richard Mawer]

Agree about the width of the ballast, are you going to paint the track before ballasting?

I used Carrs N gauge (2mm) ballast in two tones of grey (light and medium) but wasn't to selective in the mixing to get an uneven mottled effect, then used Carrs ash for additional colour variations especially sidings and where loco's stood normally added to the drying grey ballast.

 

Kevin

 

With so much track (someone worked it out to be a scale 5 miles of track - I think - could have been a mile. I can't remember, or be bothered to work it out again, but its a lot) I wasn't planning to paint the rails. However, I was going to blow over the track with a thin coat of sleeper grime at the angle from which it is viewed. This will tone down the nickel silver.

 

I do like the look of your ballast, but didn't realise you'd used grey!!!! I'd dismissed grey. I was banking on browns. I'm going to have to check your photos again! I like the idea of not a perfect mix.

 

Does anyone have experience of the Proses spreader regarding ballast width? I don't really want to buy another and find it is the same as the one I have.

[Ray H]

Richard

 

Could you modify the existing spreader by narrowing the width of the apertures on their outer edges to narrow the coverage area? Could you slide and glue a suitable width piece of plasticard into the apertures?

[KNP]

I thought I would explain it bit more from my earlier post by attaching this picture.

 

Yes, the ballast is as I described - Carrs 2mm Light and Medium grey, track edge Carrs Ash and isolated areas on main track

 

then I then put patches of thin washes over it as well of -

 

Vallijo - Cork Brown

​          - Olive Green (in patches to look like moss)

Lifecolor - Roof Dirt

  

Then washes from the brush cleaning pot for a sort of grunge mix!

               

 

Some areas I left untreated to look like new ballast.

 

Left to dry then another application to build up colour / shading

 

Hope you don't mind me posting this picture but I thought I needed to explain that I had not relied just on the ballast colour.

Edited October 27, 2017 by KNP

[Richard Mawer]

Richard

 

Could you modify the existing spreader by narrowing the width of the apertures on their outer edges to narrow the coverage area? Could you slide and glue a suitable width piece of plasticard into the apertures?

You know what, Ray? That's an exceedingly good and simple idea. So much better than buying something else that may or may not work. Why didn't I think of it?!?!

 

Thanks Ray.

 

Thanks also for the steer on the Wickes adhesive.

[Richard Mawer]

I thought I would explain it bit more from my earlier post by attaching this picture.

 

Yes, the ballast is as I described - Carrs 2mm Light and Medium grey, track edge Carrs Ash and isolated areas on main track

 

then I then put patches of thin washes over it as well of -

 

Vallijo - Cork Brown

​          - Olive Green (in patches to look like moss)

Lifecolor - Roof Dirt

  

Then washes from the brush cleaning pot for a sort of grunge mix!

               

745.JPG

 

Some areas I left untreated to look like new ballast.

 

Left to dry then another application to build up colour / shading

 

Hope you don't mind me posting this picture but I thought I needed to explain that I had not relied just on the ballast colour.

Kevin, of course I don't mind! Its all great advice and the photo shows how good the end results are. The inconsistent shades are so realistic. I presume the washes are applied by a reasonably large brush, sort of shloshed on to some degree.

 

I'm going to have to play around and see what looks right.

 

Thanks again.

[Silver Sidelines]

Hi Rich, looking good. I like the sound of experiments with various adhesives.  I am a fan of using cheap readily available materials - as above there are a lot shades of material obtainable by drying and sieving garden soils - not to mention fire ash.  I found coal dust a useful ingredient.  If you want a precision finish to your ballasting I suspect it takes time.

 

Regards

 

Ray

[Richard Mawer]

ON THE PULL

 

Last Wednesday I had a couple of friends over for an operating session. The first long freight only just made it up the incline with some added power. That was headed by the ROD. The second one didn't really get past the foot of the incline. It needed the hand of God. That was one of the 28xx's. On the previous day's timetable the coal train struggled and that has 23 on going up the incline.

 

It seemed that for some reason my 2-8-0s were losing pulling power.

 

Then it struck me, part of the issue was that the trains were getting heavier. The opens have loads and most wagons are weighted to improve handling. I've eased the coal train burden as mentioned above by putting sheet steel under the loads instead of 5g ferous weights. That's 100g or so off the whole train.

 

To combat the issue with the locos I adopted the old principle and added lead to the underside of the keep plates. It didn't seem to make too much difference though and the locos are fairly heavy already. Then one of the 28's started derailing its pony, so I added weight to that, but it seemed then to become even poorer at pulling.

 

Tonight I trialled all 3 on the incline with a 19 wagon load. The ROD was best and got up but was right on the limit of slipping. One 28 needed help towards the top and the now poor one hardly started up the hill before skidding. Hmmmmm.....

 

So I have removed the added weight and added 2 extra magnets under each. Each 2-8-0 now has 3 magnets pulling it down onto the steel plates under the incline. The ROD and better 28 now tackle the hill even better, almost without needing extra power. Much better than adding weight. I'm so glad I put the steel under the track and used magnets. It's made a huge difference.

 

The other 28 still couldn't get past go. Then I remembered something Ray of Silver Sidelines of this Parish (see above) once suggested when dealing with the Dukedog. Was the pony (bogie) keeping the front drivers off the track? It didn't look like it, but I loosened the holding screw a touch and hey presto, problem solved. It never ceases to amaze me how tiny changes make such large diferences on steam locos.

Edited October 28, 2017 by Richard Mawer

[Silver Sidelines]

Hello Rich again

 

Pulling Trucks!  Don't underestimate how much effort can be needed to overcome rolling resistance.  I bought this little axle box trimmer off eBay some years back.  They are still made in the States and I do believe I have seem them advertised by someone like DC Concepts or Gaugemaster.  There can sometimes be a problem in fitting the tool because of the position of the coupling block and on occasions I have had to remove the little rubber friction sleeve.  All my wagons (Airfix and Mainline) are now fitted with Bachmann metal wheels.  Invariably I have had to use the tool to open out the axle boxes.

 

Regards

 

Truck Tuner

Edited October 29, 2017 by Silver Sidelines

[jcm@gwr]

I thought I would explain it bit more from my earlier post by attaching this picture.

 

Yes, the ballast is as I described - Carrs 2mm Light and Medium grey, track edge Carrs Ash and isolated areas on main track

 

then I then put patches of thin washes over it as well of -

 

Vallijo - Cork Brown

​          - Olive Green (in patches to look like moss)

Lifecolor - Roof Dirt

  

Then washes from the brush cleaning pot for a sort of grunge mix!

               

745.JPG

 

Some areas I left untreated to look like new ballast.

 

Left to dry then another application to build up colour / shading

 

Hope you don't mind me posting this picture but I thought I needed to explain that I had not relied just on the ballast colour.

 

My version of this consists of using a mix of ballast (whatever is to hand!), but

to use a mix of 50/50 PVA & Klear, plus a splash of Meths (water wetter) and

then a dollop of acrylic paint, normally black, sometimes dark grey.

I only mix in small amounts, a little squeeze bottle (for direct application), and

the proportion of paint varies.

This gives slight colour variation without having to add it later, but there's no

reason not to, if you're not completely happy with the effect, ie where locos

might stand, etc.

[john dew]

Hello Rich again Pulling Trucks!  Don't underestimate how much effort can be needed to overcome rolling resistance.  I bought this little axle box trimmer off eBay some years back.  They are still made in the States and I do believe I have seem them advertised by someone like DC Concepts or Gaugemaster.  There can sometimes be a problem in fitting the tool because of the position of the coupling block and on occasions I have had to remove the little rubber friction sleeve.  All my wagons (Airfix and Mainline) are now fitted with Bachmann metal wheels.  Invariably I have had to use the tool to open out the axle boxes. Regards Truck Tuner

It's DCC Concepts who sell a similar device. I have found it very useful.

[Richard Mawer]

Hello Rich again Pulling Trucks! Don't underestimate how much effort can be needed to overcome rolling resistance. I bought this little axle box trimmer off eBay some years back. They are still made in the States and I do believe I have seem them advertised by someone like DC Concepts or Gaugemaster. There can sometimes be a problem in fitting the tool because of the position of the coupling block and on occasions I have had to remove the little rubber friction sleeve. All my wagons (Airfix and Mainline) are now fitted with Bachmann metal wheels. Invariably I have had to use the tool to open out the axle boxes. Regards Truck Tuner

All my wagons, bar a couple which already had great wheels, have been rewheeled. I have used mainly Bacmann but sometimes Hornby wheels. Many dropped in without issue and the an freely. But some needed reeming out. I used a number of different sized, but small drill bits. There are still a couple which drag a bit, but most are fine. I didn't know about that tool. A bit late now, but still nice to know.

Edited October 29, 2017 by Richard Mawer