Jump to content
 

RMW "Layout & Track Design" - all change............


halsey
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

Yes, I winced when I saw it, and was thinking of asking Halsey not to post any more images that might disturb people of a sensitive nature. (Actually, that image would disturb anyone with teeth, irrespective of their nature)

 

K

The idea came from a very historic RMW posting on manual uncoupling issues it's not original - I suppose I could say I just "picked" it up!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I'm just beginning to be distracted with preparations for the forthcoming boating season (which is my primary passion) - see pic below for a proper engine - Russell Newbery DM2 18HP at 350 rpm

 

BUT

 

I'm struggling to live with the lift out (or grovel under) bridge section so this is making me wobble on the layout implications of changing it so I'm not progressing any modelling at the moment - it's not something I really want to address pre next winter so posts will be few and far between for now..............if I could hinge it it would be a massive improvement but the gradient is in the way - I was worried about this aspect right from the outset so I only have myself to blame.

 

It's not hugely negative, it simply needs more thought and perhaps a renewed perspective in 6 months time!

 

Meanwhile I'm enjoying playing trains....................

 

BFN

post-27634-0-59433400-1456408342_thumb.jpg

Edited by halsey
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

At first glance, I thought somebody had come along and dumped a Diesel engine just inside the front door of your house!

 

Happy chugging!

 

K

 

Ha!

 

Not just any old diesel engine! - it looks even better side on (see attached) but I haven't got any photos of my engine room other than that attached earlier.

post-27634-0-22214100-1456415071.png

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to walk my dogs, both now sadly departed, by the canal each evening, and one of the great joys of summer was to hear a Bollinger, a Burmeister & Wain, a Lister, or a Ruston coming chuffing down the waterway, engine room doors open, and happy chap at the tiller.

 

K

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I used to walk my dogs, both now sadly departed, by the canal each evening, and one of the great joys of summer was to hear a Bollinger, a Burmeister & Wain, a Lister, or a Ruston coming chuffing down the waterway, engine room doors open, and happy chap at the tiller.

 

K

Happy days - hence my picture of my 3 hounds on the front (tug) deck!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Could you hinge the lift out section either downwards or sideways?

I'd not even given "downwards" a thought - thanks for that I'll have a look

 

I know some people use what I would call tall hinges but I'm not sure how the geometry works in trying to achieve a tight close gap - I might have a look in B&Q to buy some cheap ones and play

Edited by halsey
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

If that doesn't work, I'd replace the whole thing with 2 bits of 3x1 with track laid along them, or something like that. Should be very lightweight and easy to handle, if not terribly scenic...

To be honest I don't need to do that as what I've already built works well and is quite a quick fit BUT I tend to be lazy and duck under cos I cant be bothered and then I pull my ailing hip so get pi**ed off - you get the picture!

Like all of us I like easy so its a compromise - I'm not bothered about this section being pretty - it just has to work as I've had one hip done and likely another next year so I'm planning ahead so the railway doesn't get pushed away if/when it happens.

Thanks for the input.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Iirc you cross the gap on two levels (?) - the simplest thing might be to hinge the top level to swing up and the lower level to drop down.  Or maybe you could swing a single unit inwards, if you curved the ends of the boards?  Or outwards, maybe attached to the door itself - which would at least mean you wouldn't have the option not to move it?  Not that my carpentry could achieve any of the above!!

 

Cheers, Chris

Link to post
Share on other sites

These "hinged bits" can be tricky to get right.

 

I have a "bar flap" across the door on my layout, and even with the forgiving nature of coarse-scale standards (which are tolerant of degrees of misalignment that would deeply upset closer-to-scale wheels-sets) I still find it difficult to keep things "just so". The biggest problem is that the flap changes size and alignment, very subtly, according to the weather (humidity more so than temperature), even though it is indoors, with constant background heating to prevent things dropping below ten degrees C.

 

At some stage, I am going to rearrange things in the area concerned, and, when I do, I might well move away from a wooden flap altogether, and make something from aluminium, which isn't humidity-sensitive.

 

K

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

These "hinged bits" can be tricky to get right.

 

I have a "bar flap" across the door on my layout, and even with the forgiving nature of coarse-scale standards (which are tolerant of degrees of misalignment that would deeply upset closer-to-scale wheels-sets) I still find it difficult to keep things "just so". The biggest problem is that the flap changes size and alignment, very subtly, according to the weather (humidity more so than temperature), even though it is indoors, with constant background heating to prevent things dropping below ten degrees C.

 

At some stage, I am going to rearrange things in the area concerned, and, when I do, I might well move away from a wooden flap altogether, and make something from aluminium, which isn't humidity-sensitive.

 

K

Hi both,

 

I have decided not untypically for me that its "do or die" time.

 

I have now dismantled an element of the current bridge and created 2 very solid wooden hoops over the twin tracks which butt against each other and are then "joined" across the top with a very substantial brass hinge I had lying around - it looks as though it will work BUT it needs various screwed and glued sections to dry overnight to give it a final run - I have only had to disturb/remove the twin track sections at one end where the lie of the joint will have to revised to be offset and then I will need to contrive a locking method so the (new) track sections can be correctly aligned probably with a proprietory "overthrow" type catch to pull it all together.

 

Pictures later tomorrow if we are in business!

 

BFN

 

NB catches now ordered - what did we do before eBay apart from pay twice as much for everything, have to phone to find stuff, then pay to drive there and pay for parking on top! - not everyone's cup of tea I appreciate but having spent 40 years and done 1m+ miles on UK roads I hate driving!

Edited by halsey
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Iirc you cross the gap on two levels (?) - the simplest thing might be to hinge the top level to swing up and the lower level to drop down.  Or maybe you could swing a single unit inwards, if you curved the ends of the boards?  Or outwards, maybe attached to the door itself - which would at least mean you wouldn't have the option not to move it?  Not that my carpentry could achieve any of the above!!

 

Cheers, Chris

If it wasn't a typical wobbly shed door that would be the best idea of the lot!

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm just beginning to be distracted with preparations for the forthcoming boating season (which is my primary passion) - see pic below for a proper engine - Russell Newbery DM2 18HP at 350 rpm

 

BUT

 

I'm struggling to live with the lift out (or grovel under) bridge section so this is making me wobble on the layout implications of changing it so I'm not progressing any modelling at the moment - it's not something I really want to address pre next winter so posts will be few and far between for now..............if I could hinge it it would be a massive improvement but the gradient is in the way - I was worried about this aspect right from the outset so I only have myself to blame.

 

It's not hugely negative, it simply needs more thought and perhaps a renewed perspective in 6 months time!

 

Meanwhile I'm enjoying playing trains....................

 

BFN

 

Have you an image of the boat we can see too?  Love to take long summer evening walks along the local tow path of The Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal...to Bratch Locks close to where Wombourne Station and the impressive Victorian water pumping station is located....very relaxing to watch these narrow vessels gliding by....dropping in for a a quick half too is always a draw!

post-20610-0-09488800-1456520600_thumb.jpg

post-20610-0-52194200-1456520632.jpg

post-20610-0-89987400-1456520810.jpg

post-20610-0-43750500-1456520670_thumb.jpg

post-20610-0-61480900-1456520705_thumb.jpg

Edited by BobM
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Wonderful stuff!

 

I've often thought that it is a pity that railway preservation isn't more like canal preservation.

 

Imagine a network of public access 2ft gauge railways, threading across the country, upon which it is normal to drive ones private steam or retro-diesel railcar, with sleeping accommodation etc. There would be reasonably closely-spaced passing loops, and speed would be limited to 4mph, so no hurry. Rake out the fire, and stable for the night in some isolated siding .........

 

K

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Have you an image of the boat we can see too?  Love to take long summer evening walks along the local tow path of The Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal...to Bratch Locks close to where Wombourne Station and the impressive Victorian water pumping station is located....very relaxing to watch these narrow vessels gliding by....dropping in for a a quick half too is always a draw!

attachicon.gifBratch 0001.jpg

attachicon.gif1997-7219_RJS_BWW_2.jpg

attachicon.gifwombourne_station_building_stourbridge_platform_towards_wolv.jpg

attachicon.gif3299205295_acf9b1428b_o (1024x741).jpg

attachicon.gif3300053268_f2e602e2f4_o (1024x768).jpg

 

Happy to oblige - you might recognise one of these locations the other I cant remember myself but it might be the River Thames around Oxford?

post-27634-0-56896600-1456529332_thumb.jpg

post-27634-0-97534800-1456529333_thumb.jpg

Edited by halsey
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

It works!

 

Constructionally its OK and strong - the detailed modelling aspects are not great so I guess it will just have to be painted matt black until I can think of something - the HUGE benefit is no rebuilding/re-planning needed - I've just got to sort the new track alignment across the "closing" end when the catches arrive next week and ensure that it is equally firm/solid when closed before final alignment.

 

I'm very pleased to have put to bed my possible need to rethink - the layout works (not for everyone I know) and delivers a lot of operational satisfaction in 9'x7'.

 

BFN

post-27634-0-60519200-1456573397_thumb.jpg

post-27634-0-01188300-1456573399_thumb.jpg

post-27634-0-92710400-1456573399_thumb.jpg

Edited by halsey
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Just something I keep meaning to do .....................

 

When I started this whole process as a complete beginner one question which was difficult to answer "on line"  was what is it going to cost and how long will it take to get something working.

 

In this/my case the evolution of this project to date (phase 1) has taken something like 500 hours and app £1000, with some careful shopping, to not only deliver the layout but a decent stable of "pre-loved" stock - app 40 wagons and 4 locos - this excludes the shed (known affectionately as the "Track Shack" - John and Neil take note!) and woodwork which was probably another £2000 but as I tell "her indoors" this isn't railway related!

 

Major lessons learned - Join RMW, canvass as wide an audience as you can, don't buy used points/turnouts, always buy new electricals, your build can never be too strong, re-wheeling old eBay stock is a great way to get good running cheap wagons and finally (for now) double the length of any piece of wire you are about to cut!  

Edited by halsey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...