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Model Rail 217 January 2016


dibber25

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I won't be getting my copy until it hits the bookstalls on Thursday. It has been mentioned on Facebook that due to an error at the printers a whole page is 'missing' from the printed editions. A downloadable/printed copy of the missing page (61) is available from the publishers.

Is there a link to the missing page?

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I won't be getting my copy until it hits the bookstalls on Thursday. It has been mentioned on Facebook that due to an error at the printers a whole page is 'missing' from the printed editions. A downloadable/printed copy of the missing page (61) is available from the publishers.

Page 61 is an advert, I suppose if it's on facebook it must be true !!!!!!!!!!!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Writing from the USA - so a comment and then some questions.  Comment: I rather enjoy the "theme" issues as they provide info & pictures of the uniquely UK aspects of railways & railway-relevant (e.g. bridges & tunnels) important to "authentic" looking layouts.  Now the questions:  The article on fixing the Hornby "Hall" was very helpful as I hope to improve my "Adderley" Hall to a GWR "Saint Edmunds."  Railmatch paint won't get thru the Post these days.  (1) Is Humbrol RC405 "GWR/BR Green" close enough? (2) Please advise catalog #s of Fox & HMRS trnasfers for GWR version. (3) Could I just use a lining pen to add the black centerline to the Hornby orange on the loco & tender? (4) Should I remove the Hornby lining or can Fox/HMRS pressfix be placed over the Hornby printed lining? (5) I assume T-cut is a mild auto body scratch fixer. Why not use Microsol?  (6) Please recommend source for smokebox dart and, finally, (7) what do we do about brake rods???  The Hornby accessory pack (X6612) doesn't seem to exist and quite visible brake rods are a distinctive feature of UK steam.  Any ideas for scratchbuilding?  Again, I really appreciate Model Rail - clearly a leader for presenting all aspects of the hobby.

 

v/r

George Stein

Weaverville, NC

USA

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Writing from the USA - so a comment and then some questions.  Comment: I rather enjoy the "theme" issues as they provide info & pictures of the uniquely UK aspects of railways & railway-relevant (e.g. bridges & tunnels) important to "authentic" looking layouts.  Now the questions:  The article on fixing the Hornby "Hall" was very helpful as I hope to improve my "Adderley" Hall to a GWR "Saint Edmunds."  Railmatch paint won't get thru the Post these days.  (1) Is Humbrol RC405 "GWR/BR Green" close enough? (2) Please advise catalog #s of Fox & HMRS trnasfers for GWR version. (3) Could I just use a lining pen to add the black centerline to the Hornby orange on the loco & tender? (4) Should I remove the Hornby lining or can Fox/HMRS pressfix be placed over the Hornby printed lining? (5) I assume T-cut is a mild auto body scratch fixer. Why not use Microsol?  (6) Please recommend source for smokebox dart and, finally, (7) what do we do about brake rods???  The Hornby accessory pack (X6612) doesn't seem to exist and quite visible brake rods are a distinctive feature of UK steam.  Any ideas for scratchbuilding?  Again, I really appreciate Model Rail - clearly a leader for presenting all aspects of the hobby.

 

v/r

George Stein

Weaverville, NC

USA

1) I haven't used Humbrol GWR green so I don't know what the colour is like for accuracy or level of gloss. I'm afraid I find Humbrol's current UK-made paint quite horrible - like painting with molasses - so I avoid it for all but the most basic scenic jobs. Thinning it for spraying will also be a problem as it doesn't thin with readily available paint thinners or white spirit. Brushes clean with washing-up liquid but that's no good for spraying!

2) Fox transfers FRH 4050 and FRH 4150. HMRS doesn't use numbers as far as I know. It will just be GWR locomotive lining.

3) You might use a lining pen to fill in the black line - depends how steady your hand is. Mine was a red loco, so I had to repaint and re-line or the red would have shown in the lining.

4) If you're working with a green loco, I would leave the Hornby lining alone - it's generally better than transfers.

5) Yes. T-Cut is for sprucing up cars. T-Cut is very gentle and controllable. My experience with Microsol is that it either won't touch the printing or it will go right through to the bare plastic, depending on how the loco is painted or printed, and you don't find out which until it's too late.

6) Mainly Trains in Watchet, Somerset.

7) Can't help with that one - the missing rods are not particularly noticeable on the Hall.

(CJL)

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Dibber:

 

Thank you for your prompt & helpful reply.  We'll see how it works out.

 

Suggestion for a "theme:" the great British hedgerows & narrow rural roads.  How would a 1930s tar/macadam road be made in OO?

 

Again, thanks.

 

George

We have a meeting next week. I'll mention it. (CJL)

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We have a meeting next week. I'll mention it. (CJL)

 

I have purchased most Model Rail editions going back to when it was a supplement in Rail Magazine, with the current "theme" format I now no longer purchase the magazine. I guess you can't please all the people.................................................

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I have purchased most Model Rail editions going back to when it was a supplement in Rail Magazine, with the current "theme" format I now no longer purchase the magazine. I guess you can't please all the people.................................................

No, we never have been able to. Fortunately, we seem to be pleasing more than we're displeasing. (CJL)

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