46256 Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 One other test have cleaned frames to remove any residual flux...will fit wheels to ensure all is square and true when placed on plate glass ....set squares placed against it seem good... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Sorry for any lack of posts....been side tracked last couple of days bought a S/H Hornby King Arthur.......yes I know I model the midland lines NE of Brum and apart from the preserved Sir Lamiel in 1980s never likely to have been through in BR days.....unlike RB merchant navies and URB and RB west countries which did so on specials in sixties.....but ....but it was sitting there all lonely in its display case...and I had some birthday money from my children to spend....thus ensuring their continuing presence in my will.....anyway purchased ....soon to be repainted into BR green.... I digress, the blighter kept derailing on my bend from hell....more trackwork modifications....if a rtr 460 wont stay on the track what hope for the big girl when she gets to that stage.. latest Hornby variant of the Arthur by the way.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Cured the Arthur....thought to myself if it was one of my creations and it did this.....checked the back to backs...sure enough rear drivers a tad too tight...slight pressure to widen...ever so little....now rides well.....back to Bertha, a lady can only be ignored for so long! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 29, 2016 Author Share Posted January 29, 2016 just added the wheels to chassis...reduced the lead and end bearings considerably with a file to give flexibility to chassis. The one piece boiler and running board just added for effect. The second photo is of valve gear...in response to an earlier query not jointed...the centre crank pin acts as a pivot...and lastly the 54/1 hillier I decided upon..quality product and great service..more soon.....oh and yes she goes around my dreaded inner curve...hope she does so under her own steam and not just finger power 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earlswood Nob Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 G'day all Thanks for posting the informative pics. From the look of the valve gear etch, a driven middle axle will result in the equivalent of two 0-6-0's with drive on the rear axle placed back-to-back. The firebox looks huge and would accommodate a large motor. Earlswood nob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 the hi flier and round can mashima more situated in chassis has been given my usual twenty minute run in either direction ....very smooth...run n nicely ....you may gather won't get in work as a " hand model" anytime soon....in any case would interfere with my other work as a body double for shriek.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Just a quick note gearbox made as per instructions...one minor glitch easily sorted...the opening for the motor boss I am using was a little too small....opened it out by drill in dremel gently opening it out until a nice fit ion motor.....worm place as recommended with ts middle some 6 mm from the motor face...loctite used to secure....snug fit in frames....idler gears bit tricky...excess dremelld off and a dab of superglue gel ....very small grub screw secures brass gear to driving axle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 30, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 30, 2016 Following with interest, Cheers, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 one from the side for good measure....mashima motor left over from another project, hence the careworn appearance... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Coupling rods added after gentle renaming out of their holes...the chassis tested again with them on ..no apparent tight spots running very smooth....pick ups to be added then let's see how she performs on track. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 30, 2016 Share Posted January 30, 2016 Just a quick note gearbox made as per instructions...one minor glitch easily sorted...the opening for the motor boss I am using was a little too small....opened it out by drill in dremel gently opening it out until a nice fit ion motor.....worm place as recommended with ts middle some 6 mm from the motor face...loctite used to secure....snug fit in frames....idler gears bit tricky...excess dremelld off and a dab of superglue gel ....very small grub screw secures brass gear to driving axle. With the worm so far from the motor face, how do you adjust the end float? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Hi Peter, I followed the instructions.....it states the middle of the brass worm should be 6mm from the face of the motor...this leaves a very slight gap between the end of the worm and motor face....Chris then goes on to instruct that when fitting the first stage. idler gear under the worm you should see daylight between the worm and first stage I gear cogs..I have now constructed a number of these gearboxes...on one occasion due to my incompetence I shredded a plastic gear...I was able to obtain a replacement from Chris at High level. I always test the motor gearbox either in the chassis frames, as in this case or held for example in a vice and run firstly by rotating the end of the motor shaft by hand....in this case had cut it off so straight to under power......I thoroughly recommend running in of motors and gears before putting them under any sort of load. I run them both in forward and reverse about twenty minutes each way . Tony. Wright in one of his excellent articles on chassis building notes that some of not all gears have a tendency to run more smoothly in one direction better than the other. I too have found this to be the case. I hope this helps. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted January 30, 2016 Author Share Posted January 30, 2016 Just looked at one of your pages Peter...the scratch building one....will look further tomorrow ...excellent modelling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Sorry for any lack of progress....never started a thread before....Bertha as reported over the weekend now awaiting pick ups...a fiddly task ...daunting on an 060 or 460 chassis....with a this ten wheeler even more so....I've also been diverted by finishing the attached model.....a GBL v2 body...Hornby a3 inserts...SE finecast a2 chassis ...adapted...scratch cylinders around comet LNER components, and a Hornby Tornado tender converted back n time.....apologies to anyone who has seen this materalise on other threads...but the reason I've been diverted from the big girl.......back to my original line on starting a thread and inviting people to share you experiences...hadnt expected the sense of responsibility......eh Ho at the end of the day it's a hobby please enjoy ....or not...I certainl do... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Just taken possession of a 3 mm to 12mmtapered reamer courtesy of Amazon...what a tool....wish I'd had it last week for opening out bearing holes.....speaking of tools ...my ex boss once said to me...I have a number of tools in my box ....but you are by far the biggest !... I was overcome by emotion...I digress the first tool mentioned is a quality piece of kit, well supplements by five side broach.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 .....what a tool....wish I'd had it last week for opening out bearing holes.....speaking of tools ...my ex boss once said to me...I have a number of tools in my box ....but you are by far the biggest !... .. Oh I dunno, there were a couple of those in the Hatton Garden burglary.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 3, 2016 Author Share Posted February 3, 2016 Where do you think I got the funds for Bertha.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted February 3, 2016 Share Posted February 3, 2016 Where do you think I got the funds for Bertha.... Your real name is Basil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 just added the pick ups by my usual method....copperclad board gapped to form a centre area where the pick ups to the insulated wheels are soldered. The pick ups are phos bronze wire wrapped around a small dia screwdriver forming a spring. This is soldered to copperclad...the other end sprung against the wheel tyre. The chassis runs very nicely.however as suspected from the off needs more Sideplay to get around my curve into fiddle yard. This will necessitate removal of wheels and a major reduction in the those bearing not yet adapted...I thought just reducing first and fifth would be enough...it wasnt Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 6, 2016 Author Share Posted February 6, 2016 body starting to take shape 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 14, 2016 Author Share Posted February 14, 2016 Havnt been working on her as such this week....her long wheelbase has further exposed my poor track laying.....bitten the bullet and relaid the offending trackwork.....she seems to like the new arrangement. I posted to my friend John Rowan earlier this week....if your trackwork isn't up to it all our creations are nothing more than debris by the side of the track if they derail..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 bertha with one cylinder tacked into place..work started on the valve gear. I blacken one piece with nickel silver metal black....then insert. Brass lace pin and solder. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 one I did earlier....GBL body...comet cab...comet chassis and motion bracket...Stephenson valve gear by Bill Bedford.....constucted as described using brass pins....mesmerising to watch in motion 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Still not happy with the flexibility of the 010 0 chassis....studying the Hornby railroad 9f. It has a central 060 arrangement off the third driving axle. The two outer rods are riveted in place. I have been contemplating how to do this with the DJH arrangement. I think I will solder a n/ s piece behind the centre set, taking care not to solder the outer rods. I will then drill holes for the rivets....separate the unsolder end pieces...then rivet back in place. I hope this gives the extra flexibility this chassis requires on my radii. My minimum is based on the inner curvature of the peco code 75 point will post the results of this. If this fails I note Alan Gibson sells a set of wd 2 100 rods which have same wheelbase.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted February 22, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2016 I wonder if anyone has tried replicating a 1-in-37 incline. Probably on quite a lot of layouts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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