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Warren Haywood Painting and lining


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I seem to remember you recommending GWR Indian red. 50% Ral 3009 +50% Ral 8016[/size]

Hi Adrian

Moved on since then, as I'm trying to get continuity with Bracks and Ian Rathbone the Indian red is a little more purpley to what I had before but even then the colour was never disputed. It's pretty much the same two colours with some Crimson lake added.

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This mornings work has been to spray the black areas except splasher tops which will be brush painted after lining and also the tender interior. Once the black had hardened off after a couple of hours I masked up and sprayed the holly green areas. This is basically 80% deep bronze green and 20% black. This afternoon I will tidy the brass beadingpost-18332-0-79798200-1454768772_thumb.jpeg

Edited by warren haywood
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Hi Warren,

I have just completed the painting of an 7mm LMS 4F, which I am pretty pleased with. However, when I see the quality of your work it makes me realise why those who can afford to make use of the services of guys like you and Mr. Rathbone etc. Exquisite!

 

A couple of question. You mention brush painting some of the black areas. May I ask what brand of paint you use? In the past I used Humbrol black 85 which brushed on very smoothly and gave a very good result (by my standards). I suspect that the formulation has changed over the last few years to replace some environmentally unfriendly solvents with "greener" varieties. The net result being that the safer solvents reduce the flow out of the paint and it does not level as well as it used to.

 

Also I thought deep bronze green was a good match to GWR green so why do you shade it with black?

Many thanks.

Peter

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Peter

I also use humbrol no 85, it just needs a stirring well but the areas that are brushed on are quite small. It may take a couple of coats though. Anything larger than a splasher top I would mask up and spray.

 

The black is added to the green to create Holly Green which is the shade used from 1880's to 1906. After 1906 the shade changed to the lighter chrome green, bs224 matches this closely.

Edited by warren haywood
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This evening I have made a start on the lining, pre 1906 GWR lining is only 1.5" wide so scaled for 7mm it is less than 1mm wide. Not the best photo and the lines look distorted and a bit messy, phone cameras for you :-( Tomorrow I will line the slashers and cabside.

 

post-18332-0-38361300-1455588627_thumb.jpeg

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Hi Warren fantastic.

 

As an aside, may I ask what brand the ruling pen is? Looks like Deitzgen or maybe Keufel and Esser.

 

The blades look quite long and I have noted the several people including some professional painters, have suggested that short blades are preferable as the longer ones can flex against the ruler and so vary the width of of line being drawn. I find that hard to believe as a lot top end ruling pens had long blades, and were used by professional draughtsmen etc who would also require a consistent line. Seems to me that if the blade is flexing against the rule then too much pressure is being applied. I collect drawing instruments and have pens by several of the top makers. The blades of all of them can be made to flex if enough pressure is applied, but in normal use they will all draw a consistent line irrespective of the blade length. Ink on paper I might add as I don't do much loco lining with the ruling pen.

 

Be interested to hear you comments on that.

Cheers,

Peter

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Hi Peter,

The ruling pen is a Haff, it's just short and firm enough not to close up, but I've had it a good 10years now and am used to it. I do have a Kern with shorter blades which I use when the ruler or rest is up away from the loco. Horses for courses, but at approaching 7500 locos painted I'm slowly getting the hang of it :-)

I have another haff pen with hardened tips which is a little sharp for my liking but still draws an extremely thin and consistent line.

I have three sets of compasses, my favourite are by Reifler, I also have deitzgen and kern ones all for different applications.

I notice your in Leeds, feel free to pop round for a demo any time, I'm in Wakefield.

Cheers Warren

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Hi Warren,

Interesting. I've never seen a  Haff pen before where the  thumb wheel and screw were one piece, and  screwed into the lower blade. That's why I thought Deitzgen or K & E. Usually on Haff the  screw is a T bar placed through the  lower blade from below with the  thumb wheel placed on from above. Or they have hinged swivel blades at the bottom like  Riefler and  Richter. You live and learn!

 

Thanks for  the  offer of  a  demo. I might  take you  up on that some time.

 

I was looking at your last post on the  phone in the  car while I was pulled over for a sarnie.  Just arrived at the hotel and  am now looking on the lap top after enlarging the last image. Bloody incredible what the likes of you, Mr Rathbone and Mr Goddard etc., can do with a  ruling pen!  Mind you, if you weren't a little bit good after 7500 locos then there  would be  something wrong.

 

Cheers,

Peter 

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Hi Warren,

Interesting. I've never seen a  Haff pen before where the  thumb wheel and screw were one piece, and  screwed into the lower blade. That's why I thought Deitzgen or K & E. Usually on Haff the  screw is a T bar placed through the  lower blade from below with the  thumb wheel placed on from above. Or they have hinged swivel blades at the bottom like  Riefler and  Richter. You live and learn!

 

Thanks for  the  offer of  a  demo. I might  take you  up on that some time.

 

I was looking at your last post on the  phone in the  car while I was pulled over for a sarnie.  Just arrived at the hotel and  am now looking on the lap top after enlarging the last image. Bloody incredible what the likes of you, Mr Rathbone and Mr Goddard etc., can do with a  ruling pen!  Mind you, if you weren't a little bit good after 7500 locos then there  would be  something wrong.

 

Cheers,

Peter

 

 

Ha ha, just wiped them off, wasn't 100% happy.

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Hi Warren

What a beautiful model!! 

A Quick question. I presume you finish with a varnish; what do you use?

 

Regards, Deano

Hi Deano,

99% of my jobs are done using cellulose so are lacquered using a gloss clear celly lacquer. This is sprayed at high pressure lightly to give a finish slightly glossier than satin. If I want a matter finish I can increase the amount of lacquer in the mix and increase the pressure. For glossier it's a matter of less pressure and less lacquer.

If I need to use a polyeurathane varnish I go with Ronseal hardglaze in gloss with a little matting agent added. I don't like the satin or Matt versions as they are a little inconsistent and also have a gritty/sparkly texture.

It is possible to use cellulose lacquer over an enamel painted loco but needs practice.

 

Cheers Warren

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One question for Warren H. ........ What green do you use for BR?  My reason for asking is I dumped 90% of my cellulose when I retired and so recently had to mix green in cellulose to match some very old PPC gloss when I wanted to repaint my W.Region locos.

It's just common old bs224 deep bronze green, just about the same as pp GWR green and fractionally yellower than their BR green.

Easy to tint to match if needed although the colour has never been questioned.

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