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Duncan's 7mm Workbench - Connoisseur 4F Tender Cab


Fastdax
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  • 3 weeks later...

Dinghams for Dapol Brake Van

 

I made another batch of Dingham couplings. I've run out now so must get another packet.

 

Black finish by Birchwood Casey Brass Black. This tends to come off on your fingers when handled, so any bare bits were touched up with a black sharpie. This makes a good job and I may just go this route to blackness next time.

 

post-2189-0-90240500-1540203206_thumb.jpg

 

I replaced the couplings on my Dapol BR 20T Brake Van with a pair of the Dinghams.

 

post-2189-0-92570900-1540203207_thumb.jpg

 

Under the chassis end is a keeper plate with a neat spring and pin under it, holding the instanter coupling in place.

 

post-2189-0-32213800-1540203209_thumb.jpg

 

post-2189-0-66205400-1540203210_thumb.jpg

 

post-2189-0-36641300-1540203214_thumb.jpg

 

The chassis of this brake van seems to be cast metal, so opening out the coupling pocket hole to take the Dingham etch was a no-go. It was easy enough to file a bit of the top and bottom of the etch though (shiny surface in the following photo). The buffers on this brake van are not very long, so the "pips" on the coupling had to be removed, to make the tip of the hook level with the faces of the buffers. This is one of the critical setting-up dimensions with Dinghams.

 

Rather than spring the coupling (which would have been feasible), I opted to simply glue it in place. I used a spot of CA glue on the very tip of the coupling's etched arm, and none behind the buffer beam, so that I should be able to break the joint if I ever need to remove the coupling. Using glue stops any issues with the coupling pitching, yawing or rolling (to use aeronautical terms) if the hole in the buffer beam is slightly too wide, which this is.

 

post-2189-0-72889600-1540203722_thumb.jpg

 

The other end carries a hook and latch, of course, For now, the instanter coupling has been removed from its hook and hung over the Dingham to give cosmetic coupling links. I'll see if I can lower it a couple of mm to improve the looks.

 

post-2189-0-62674600-1540203727_thumb.jpg

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Hi I've found it it is possible to (carefully) drill the hook end to take the chain, the visual impression of a rake of wagons is much improved as there would be a chain hanging down from one wagon in real life

 

post-10483-0-98876700-1540207375_thumb.jpg

 

Rgds Andrew

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Hi I've found it it is possible to (carefully) drill the hook end to take the chain, the visual impression of a rake of wagons is much improved as there would be a chain hanging down from one wagon in real life

 

attachicon.gifDinghams with chain.jpg

 

Rgds Andrew

 

Hi Andrew,

 

I did something similar previously (see here) but this relied on keeping the "pips".

 

I like your method and I'll give it a go.

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More Dinghams

 

The Dapol white insulated van has a very similar cover to the brake van. The spring and pin under it are identical to the brake van so I swapped over the couplings in the same way.

 

post-2189-0-86971700-1540216691_thumb.jpg

 

The Dapol mineral wagons have a spring and pin but without the plastic cover.

 

post-2189-0-65085300-1540216611_thumb.jpg

 

post-2189-0-08340500-1540216618_thumb.jpg

 

It's easy to fit a spring (slightly larger to fit over the Dingham etch) and a split pin.

 

post-2189-0-16765300-1540216626_thumb.jpg

 

Using Andrew's suggestion I drilled a 0.9mm hole in the latch end of a coupling and fitted the Dapol 3-link chain through it.

 

post-2189-0-13103700-1540216629_thumb.jpg

 

Seems to work well! The chain hangs clear of the track.

 

post-2189-0-81335100-1540216631_thumb.jpg

 

The etched arm on the Dinghams is taller then the Dapol plastic that it replaces so the coupling slot (thankfully plastic on these wagons) needs opening out a bit.

 

Here's my weapon of choice.

 

post-2189-0-89651900-1540216635_thumb.jpg

 

Right - all new wagons are now converted! I need to pull a couple of latch ends out and do the 0.9mm hole thing to improve their appearance.

 

 

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More Dinghams

 

The Dapol white insulated van has a very similar cover to the brake van. The spring and pin under it are identical to the brake van so I swapped over the couplings in the same way.

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-18 007.JPG

 

The Dapol mineral wagons have a spring and pin but without the plastic cover.

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-22 001 (2).JPG

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-22 002.JPG

 

It's easy to fit a spring (slightly larger to fit over the Dingham etch) and a split pin.

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-22 004.JPG

 

Using Andrew's suggestion I drilled a 0.9mm hole in the latch end of a coupling and fitted the Dapol 3-link chain through it.

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-22 007.JPG

 

Seems to work well! The chain hangs clear of the track.

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-22 008.JPG

 

The etched arm on the Dinghams is taller then the Dapol plastic that it replaces so the coupling slot (thankfully plastic on these wagons) needs opening out a bit.

 

Here's my weapon of choice.

 

attachicon.gif2018-10-22 009.JPG

 

Right - all new wagons are now converted! I need to pull a couple of latch ends out and do the 0.9mm hole thing to improve their appearance.

Duncan,

 

What is the saw, looks good.

 

Thanks

 

Ernie

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  • 1 month later...

Ian Kirk Coach Roof and Lighting

 

OK, where were we with the LMS Period II composite? I last posted progress (because that's when I last made some progress) back in April.

 

So, recently I marked out the roof for the torpedo vents and fixed them on:

 

2018-05-09002.JPG.e85e3a29271fa69d2f1932ebd27a3986.JPG

 

I'm using Markits (IIRC) torpedo vents instead of the plastic ones in the kit.

 

2018-05-14002.JPG.72951f26c84c147e891b8ca81a65ec4e.JPG

 

I also put in place a lighting system that I hacked from a Train-Tech AL3 lighting unit. These little battery-powered circuits sense movement and switch on an LED, either constant or flickering. To me, the big advantage is that there doesn't need to be any wheel pickups and there's no switch, which would mean handling the coach. Once it starts moving, the AL3 switches the lights on and they stay on until there's been no movement for a couple of minutes. I used one on my former EM gauge layout in a guard's van and they work well.

 

Although they are supposed to run from a 3V CR2032 button cell battery, I guessed that they could cope with 3.7V from a LiPo mobile phone style battery, which has a vastly bigger capacity and is rechargeable. I wanted a bigger capacity because I will be running nine LEDs (one for each compartment), not one. Also, it means no disassembly of the coach to change the battery.

 

Voiding my warranty totally, I clipped off the button cell holder and connected a 150mA LiPo battery, via a little USB charge/discharge circuit, to its inputs.

 

The outputs were connected to 2 self-adhesive copper foil strips fixed to the underside of the roof. Nine surface-mounted warm white LEDs were (quickly!) soldered to the copper strips, one above each compartment. I did a test to make sure that soldering wouldn't melt the roof:

 

2018-05-13001.JPG.4567810875c0f52c48f1c1d76f8c8162.JPG

 

Wires and a miniature plug take the battery/charger output through a hole in the floor and up to the roof. This allows the roof to be removed but places the charger in easy reach under the floor.

 

2018-05-14003.JPG.92e7e564e71a77f3c0afb7805bb5c105.JPG

 

This is the underside of the roof. What's left of the AL3 (about 1cm square) fits into a corner and the SMD LEDs are quite flat against the underside of the roof. I hope they won't be too visible when the coach is finished. Superfluous yellow wire snipped off.

 

2018-12-10001.JPG.9bc07821a3c52ad387793b0b02baa4ef.JPG

 

The battery and charger fit between the chassis rails under the floor (sorry - no picture) and the charger circuit can be pulled away from a blob of blu-tac so that a standard micro-USB charger can be used to charge the battery.

 

Testing shows that a full battery will run the lights constantly for at least four hours. A battery top-up only takes about 30 minutes. To find its duration, I left the coach being shuttled back and forth on Offerston Quay's high-level track, where the constant motion kept the AL3 alive and the LEDs lit.

 

The AL3 seems to cope just fine with the extra 0.7V. It doesn't get warm and it has been running for many hours now.

 

More pictures soon.

 

 

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Duncan,

 

I ike the idea but a few words re lithium batteries.

 

They’re great if kept between about 2.5 and 4.25 volts (precise numbers depend on the actual chemistry of the cell) but if they discharge below about 2 volts they are likely to become a bit risky to charge, and below a volt, downright dangerous to recharge.

 

I mention this because I suspect your switch circuit is likely to take a very low current even when the lights are off, and this will, very slowly, discharge your battery, and you won’t necessarily know whether they’ve got to a dodgy level or not, particularly if you’ve been on hols, or just not modelling for a few weeks.

 

There are circuits available which will protect the battery (I think Conrad do one) by a hard switch off at 2.5V. Might be worth having a look at this.

 

Best

Simon

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Thanks Simon.

 

I do have a discharge protection circuit in there. Betwixt battery and AL3 is one of these:

 

82322_1.jpg.dbf4c55229f2cfa125f236d7656bcfff.jpg

 

It allows charging from a micro USB charger and limits discharge to > 2.5V.

 

Handily, it fits under floor between the chassis rails and is almost invisible in use.

 

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Hi George,

 

Thanks for the kind words.

 

I'll  not be fitting Dinghams to these coaches as they will run in a fixed train on Offerston Quay's high level, usually under computer control. Screw-links are the order of the day for this.

 

Dinghams do work well on the lower level, when inglenook shunting. Just don't expect them to couple/uncouple on sharp curves.

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Hi George,

 

Thanks for the kind words.

 

I'll  not be fitting Dinghams to these coaches as they will run in a fixed train on Offerston Quay's high level, usually under computer control. Screw-links are the order of the day for this.

 

Dinghams do work well on the lower level, when inglenook shunting. Just don't expect them to couple/uncouple on sharp curves.

 

Thank Duncan l will not be using the magnets to uncouple l am just using the hooks ? its easier to lift the hoop to uncouple etc etc

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Ian Kirk Coach

 

The coach is now in primer. It can be seen in this quick video of Offerston Quay station.

 

 

The battery and charge/discharge circuit I mention previously are here, under the floor. The battery is the blob under the dynamo.:

 

2018-12-11002.JPG.85f06e8c7d6fc6f3757049be0a275493.JPG

 

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Ian Kirk Coach

 

The coach interior had an airbrushing in a medium brown colour (Lifecolor Wood Warm Base Colour). I picked out the seats in blue (1st class) and red (3rd class).

 

The upper wall panels will be stickers by Roxey Mouldings and are simple drawings of pictures and mirrors. I hope they won't be too obvious through the tiny windows of this coach but better than a blank wall.

 

2018-12-15002.JPG.8ba41fa9746a21640fcb8e9cd7b8da5b.JPG

 

Oscar the Cocker Spaniel watches from under the desk.

 

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Deeley Dock Tank

 

For Xmas she-who-must-be-obeyed-13-small.png.0bb8feb22026285c081f0a9622ba1911.png kindly got me a Zimo sound decoder for the Deeley Dock Tank. I will have to inform her of this fact at some point ...

 

Since this loco doesn't have a dedicated sound file, as no examples survive, I opted for the nearest sound that I could think of. I went for an Ivatt 2MT 2-6-2T file because it's a similar small, outside cylinder, Midland-derived tank engine. The sample sounds made available by YooChoos on their website sounded reasonable for a small 0-4-0 tank so I plumped for a Zimo MX645 with this sound file and an SC68 stay-alive. I already have a selection of speakers so I'll see what fits.

 

I dismantled the loco ready for installation of the sound chip and, whilst it's apart, painting (finally).

 

2018-12-21003.JPG.5c3f02e98fa49604ad5d76fda81d1164.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

Deeley Dock Tank

 

The body has now had a couple of coats of U-Pol Acid Etch #8. I have started painting the backhead while it is still loose.

 

2018-12-31001.JPG.e8875a39bbec65fbd5c968af066ddba3.JPG

 

Really cruel close-up shows a few scabby areas to be addressed (or hidden under weathering!):

 

New-Out99999_99998.jpg.505fe57f786ee7ced204d37c2797c0b1.jpg

 

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Deeley Dock Tank

 

First, a Happy New Year to all readers of this thread  :locomotive:

 

The dock tank had a coat of airbrushed very dark grey, followed by a light blow-over with Lifecolor Weathered Black.

 

2019-01-01 001.JPG

 

This is what I did to my Connoisseur Jinty and I want a similar colour tone for this loco.

 

I started picking out a few brass details (backhead pipeworks, oil pots, safety and clack valves, whistle etc) with dry brushed Darkstar Brass acrylic.

 

2019-01-01002.JPG.3c0cfba4af7ca5060e9e16f8671bf340.JPG

 

Lots still to do, including painting of the buffer beams, adding window glass, transfers, coal, crew etc. etc. etc.

 

Hopefully it will be finished before next New Year!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Connoisseur Lowmac

 

My Connoisseur Lowmac, last seen in brass here, has been painted with Unfitted Early Freight Grey and had HMRS transfers applied.

 

2019-01-12001.JPG.73f880c306978bb9f4e406dbbfd884f2.JPG

 

I rusted the metal plate ends:

 

2019-01-14001.JPG.13c9a70109246e47e5a650c14d65be61.JPG

 

... and applied weathered wood effect to the central planking.

 

2019-01-14002.JPG.75f60d2a2d9ac3f1afaf06d482e2e0bc.JPG

 

The finished result, as befits an end-of-life NE wagon in the early 1960s:

 

2019-01-16001.JPG.ba549eceaec6c601f6827d7d5b670c0e.JPG

 

2019-01-16002.JPG.35d9601fe8c9435ef12bd60d0a788f5a.JPG

 

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Deeley Dock Tank

 

After a bit more black, the tank is getting its buffer beams sprayed signal red.

 

2019-01-18006.JPG.163b5ff40ab0e433522108d44927be4d.JPG

 

For me, somehow brush-painted buffer beams always look untidy.

 

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Conoissuer Lowmac

 

My Conoisseur Lowmac, last seen in brass here, has been painted with Unfitted Early Freight Grey and had HMRS transfers applied.

 

attachicon.gif2019-01-12 001.JPG

 

I rusted the metal plate ends:

 

attachicon.gif2019-01-14 001.JPG

 

... and applied weathered wood effect to the central planking.

 

attachicon.gif2019-01-14 002.JPG

 

The finished result, as befits an end-of-life NE wagon in the early 1960s:

 

attachicon.gif2019-01-16 001.JPG

 

attachicon.gif2019-01-16 002.JPG

 

 

Very nice Duncan

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