Jazz 7mm Workbench

[Pannier Tank]

Jazz,

 

All the very best wishes to you.

[N15class]

I like the way the bogie is sprung. I normally have 2 springs for side control. But I can see how much better this one would guide the loco. I will also look at springing the bogie wheels, instead of springing the bogie. Is this the kits way or is it something you normally use?

[jazz]

Thank you David.

 

Hi Peter. The bogie is as Slater's designed it with the exception I used the usual piano wire to spring the hornblocks instead of the flimsey, tiny springs supplied.

[barry_yardley]

Ken,

 

I hope everything goes well on the medical side and you don't have to wait too long for the op.

 

I love these Jonhson locos I've got 3 at the moment and two more Slaters kits to build.

 

Keep up the good work as you inspire many.

 

Best regards

 

Barry

[jazz]

Redirected my atttention back to the Johnson 4-4-0T. It's now ready for the attention of the painter. I built it almost as the desinger intended and has worked out quite sucessfully. I did decide to weaken the springing on the bogie rather than adding even more weight in the bunker. She is quiet heavy enough as it is. Unless you are going to fit a honking great motor in it, of course.

 

The spectacle surrounds are in polished brass and to be fitted on completion of painting. Talking of painting. I used the Black Acid Etch Primer as recommded here. First impressions are very good indeed. Now it will be interesting to see if the can will perform as well on the next loco as, naturally, the paint it is of a much thicker spray pattern than the Halfords grey primer.

Edited May 6, 2012 by jazz

[jazz]

Here's another GWR loco from one of my favourite manufacturers, Scorpio. It's their 61xx class large prairie. As usual, it's a well designed kit. There are some little mistakes to modify which the instructions do mention anyway.

 

The chassis has an interesting compensation, the cast springs/horn blocks are soldered to the compensation rockers. It works vey well too. The big problen was absolutely no room for the crossheads to clear the coupling rods.

 

There was a couple of way to achieve this, a) move the cylinders out or modifications to the coupling rods and bushes. I chose method b.

 

First I filed the end of the coupling rod where the oil boxes are to onlt two laminations. Filed the bush leaving the smallest of play. Ditched the 14BA nut and used only the 14BA washer soldered to the bolt again with the absolute minimum of play. Then used axle washers to eliminate all side play to the leading drivers. This resuted in just enough clearance (1.50 mm) to produce a smooth running chassis,

 

The next small problem was the rear sandboxes were fouling the cab steps if attached to the brackets as designed. So I simply moved them as close to the rear drivers as I could leaving a couple of mills for clearance.

 

so I have now ended up with a nice chassis.

 

The body is going together very well so far. The slot and tabs all lining up exactly.

 

 

 

The modifications to the coupling rod.

 

Body going together very well.

 

 

Makes a very strong unit. Note the numbers on the parts. I number all parts then cut and prepare everything except the parts too small to number. I leave those on the frets, the numders are marked alongside on the fret, then cut them off as needed. This makes for a quick assembly and continous soldering sessions.

Edited May 13, 2012 by jazz

[N15class]

Looks well designed too. Are all Scorpion ones as good, even the older ones?

[jazz]

Looks well designed too. Are all Scorpion ones as good, even the older ones?

 

I have built quite a number of Scorpio kits and all have been well designed and a pleasure to build. I have to say sometimes their castings can be a bit iffy though.

[ozzyo]

Hello Ken,

 

another way with the front crankpin is to use a 10BA screw taped into the front wheel, then tap the brass bush. Then turn it round so the rim of the top hat is to the out side, an 8BA washer fits over the small dia. of the top hat bearing. You will still have to do some work to get the clearance. But when you solder it up it should not come undone, due to the larger area for the solder.

 

OzzyO

 

PS, I have changed the look of the gauges on my thread.

[jazz]

Hi OzzyO, yes I have used that method a number of times. I have to admit I mistakenly assumed clearance would be OK and therefore cyno'd the 14BA in place so could not swop it for the 10BA. That will teach me to race ahead without the brain in gear!

[jazz]

Onwards with the 61xx class after a couple of days away from the WB. (One of which was enjoying the delights of Llyn Padarn N.G. Railway at Llanberris. Then a return again to explore the Welsh National Slate Museum there.)

 

Anway enough of my galavantings. The body is now well under way. I have found a few little adjustments were neccesary. The roof had to be shortened and narrowed, which required some of the etched detail to be filed off and scratch made. The cab side windows are not lining up, so adjustments will be needed. Fortunately the cabside sliding panels will hide that discrepancy anyway, so it's not an issue if left as is.

 

It will be noticed that the brass cast bunker corners are short on height, so a filler will have to be made and soldered in place. I was pleasantly surprised that it did actually fit very well other than that.

 

The boiler was a couple mills too long, that was easily shortened though.

 

I think the rest of the build should now proceed with no problems, it should be ready for priming over the w/end.

 

Apologies about the evening shadows, but hey, who's complaining about a bit of setting sunshine?

 

Edited May 16, 2012 by jazz

[N15class]

You still build faster than I can full time. Looks a nice build. Things like the boiler being too long is a pain to me rather than being annoying.

[jazz]

Hi all. Almost got her ready for the paint shop today. I have the cab interior and buffers to fit. Then a real good clean up for the primer.

 

The castings slowed things down by needing a bit of work to get them presentable.

 

 

 

I should be able to get into the paintshop tomorrow if I can tear myself away from Makenbach.

Edited May 19, 2012 by jazz

[Kev_Lewis]

It's looking great Ken.

 

I know what you mean about Scorpio castings, but they look good in the end.

[N15class]

I see you have added the in fill on the bunker corners, I presume that it caused no problems.

[ozzyo]

Hello Ken,

 

Looking good, but I think that you've forgotten two sets of wheels.

 

My coat is now on and I'm closing the door.

 

OzzyO.

[jazz]

I see you have added the in fill on the bunker corners, I presume that it caused no problems.

 

The bunker corners were very easy. I keep a large selection of fret offcuts of various thickness. I found one that was the correct thickness and width as near as mattered. Bend and cut to shape. Soldered in place with 145 solder. Finished off with needle files. Then added top beading with low melt.

 

Hey, OzzyO, what wheels are they then?

[ozzyo]

Hey, OzzyO, what wheels are they then?

 

Or is the very little know about 0 - 6 - 0 side tank

[jazz]

You got it in one.

Edited May 22, 2012 by jazz

[Kev T]

Hi Ken

I've built one Scorpio kit and I'm very likely to build another due to the fact that they do kits that other better manufacturers don't. But I find it difficult to say that they're well designed when you compare them to Agenoria, David Andrews, Finney, MOK and no doubt others. In your posts you describe the boiler too long, the bunker too short, cab side windows not lining up, roof too long, sandboxes fouling the steps.

I found that building the Dean Single a real PITA and as you say the quality of the castings left a lot to be desired. The kit ended up being quite decent in the end, but it was a lot more work than kits from the others I've mentioned. In your experience of Scorpio are these isolated examples or typical.

 

kind regards

Kev

[Grasshopper John]

Hello Ken,

 

all i can say is WOW what superb workmanship. I am new to building myself ( just finished an old K kit grange ) and starting an A3 in white metal, so on a learning curve OzzyO kindly invited me over to pick up some hints am at work so have to be brief how do you get such a superb finish on you primer coat ? i used halfords for first attemp but have bought some etch primer ( what is etch primer ) which i have to mix with thinners and i intend to hand paint it.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Regards

John.

[ozzyo]

Hello Ken,

all i can say is WOW what superb workmanship. I am new to building myself ( just finished an old K kit grange ) and starting an A3 in white metal, so on a learning curve OzzyO kindly invited me over to pick up some hints am at work so have to be brief how do you get such a superb finish on you primer coat ? i used halfords for first attemp but have bought some etch primer ( what is etch primer ) which i have to mix with thinners and i intend to hand paint it.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Regards

John.

 

Hello John,

 

as you can see it's not Ken, giving you the first reply it's the madman.

 

I think that both Ken and myself spray the primer on, I use one called Teroson in a rattle can, it's an etch primer (an etch primer has an amount of acid in it). Ken will let you know what he uses I'm sure. I would not advise hand painting (full stop) apart from some small details.

 

The two part etch primer is designed for spraying, brushing it on will make a mess, have you ever tried to brush paint cellulose paint?

 

You can get from Halfords an etch primer called "Acid 8" as long as you give the can at least two mins. shaking after you hear the ball it should spray OK.

 

Sorry to have jumped in Ken, hope that you don't mind.

 

OzzyO.

[Grasshopper John]

Hello John,

 

as you can see it's not Ken, giving you the first reply it's the madman.

 

I think that both Ken and myself spray the primer on, I use one called Teroson in a rattle can, it's an etch primer (an etch primer has an amount of acid in it). Ken will let you know what he uses I'm sure. I would not advise hand painting (full stop) apart from some small details.

 

The two part etch primer is designed for spraying, brushing it on will make a mess, have you ever tried to brush paint cellulose paint?

 

You can get from Halfords an etch primer called "Acid 8" as long as you give the can at least two mins. shaking after you hear the ball it should spray OK.

 

Sorry to have jumped in Ken, hope that you don't mind.

 

OzzyO.

 

So do i need to buy an airbrush OzzyO as i've already bought the primer which comes in two bottles.

 

Also apologies to Ken for my stupid questions and highjacking your thread.

 

Regards

John.

[Sandy Harper]

John

 

I have sent you a PM

 

Regards

Sandy

 

(apologies Ken)

[ozzyo]

So do i need to buy an airbrush OzzyO as i've already bought the primer which comes in two bottles.

Also apologies to Ken for my stupid questions and highjacking your thread.

Regards

John.

 

Hello John,

 

I can be a tough teacher.

 

Go down to Halfords and get a can of "Acid 8" etch primer, and try that. But before you do that you have to master the aerosol (Grasshopper, anyone remember that telly prog.). Use it on some thing that you can bin if you make a horoicks of it. Put the two bottles at the back of a cool dark cupboard for now.

 

At the moment you need to get the basics out of the way (one loco does not make a master).

 

The compressor and air brush will come with time.

 

Sorry if I'm sounding hard on you, I don't mean it to sound that way, when you meet me and you will one day, I'll be the block with the base ball bat you can pick my brains all day well about 5 mins. should do it. Then you will know all I know.

 

Sorry for the hijack Ken.

 

OzzyO.