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Upcoming O gauge sale - End of the line at Marsh Lane


MarshLane
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Morning Rich, Nice collection, even after some have moved on to new homes, I'm looking forward to adding to my collection soon as well.

 

Andy, thanks - know you've got other problems at the moment with water, but hope you get it all sorted soon.  Having to visit the railway room in a dingy in winter isn't good, don't loose heart tho.

 

 

Holy C**P how many more loco`s have turned up!.....

 

And there`s me,i`ve just got shot of my 47,and i`m having a think about wether i actullay need the two other loco`s i have on order next year.Mind you i`m seriously tempted to get another 20...

 

Nice one on the 08`s though, you can never have too many of these....... :good:

I was going to tun one of my 08`s into a latter version, but i may just hang on now for Dapol`s next release.

 

Keep it coming,and i look forward to seeing the Light rail develop,

 

Cheers mate,

 

Brian.

 

 

Hi Brian,

I know! I did a shot of the depot with the new arrivals on it, and discovered that things were a little full - nothing could move!  I do like choice, and I always believe that O gauge is an investment.  Wish I'd known about your 47 going, would have been negotiating with you for it!!  I just wish Heljan would re-run the 47, but talking to them at Warley it was a long way in the future, if at all - especially as it would need "major updating" - their words.  Thing is round Lincolnshire (well everywhere really!) the 47s were just so numerous, there's a few I want to replicate!

 

The new centre-headcode 37 is going to cause me problems (and probably the bank manager!) - as I can see so many options with those.  Two of the old Immingham Iron Ore locos are definitely a high priority.

 

The light rail side should come on well, I hope. Think building the first unit is going to be a Christmas activity.  Just trying to pull all the bits together at the moment.

 

Rich

 

Rich

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Hi Brian,

I know! I did a shot of the depot with the new arrivals on it, and discovered that things were a little full - nothing could move!  I do like choice, and I always believe that O gauge is an investment.  Wish I'd known about your 47 going, would have been negotiating with you for it!!  I just wish Heljan would re-run the 47, but talking to them at Warley it was a long way in the future, if at all - especially as it would need "major updating" - their words.  Thing is round Lincolnshire (well everywhere really!) the 47s were just so numerous, there's a few I want to replicate!

 

The new centre-headcode 37 is going to cause me problems (and probably the bank manager!) - as I can see so many options with those.  Two of the old Immingham Iron Ore locos are definitely a high priority.

 

The light rail side should come on well, I hope. Think building the first unit is going to be a Christmas activity.  Just trying to pull all the bits together at the moment.

 

Rich

 

 

Selling he 47 was a sort of last minute decision,as buying it had left a bit of a sour taste in my mouth. It was brought a mint, but was`nt as it turned out.

The seller 'discovered'? that the gears had stripped after i`d paid the money, but said they would fix it.To cut it short,i waited two months for the loco,they did offer a re-fund,but instead i negotiated a smaller re-fund to cover the replacement gears,but still have the loco.Let`s just say there is still no sign of the re-fund.....and i`ll not put any more bussiness there way either.

 

Anyhow i repaired it,and a guy locally brought it and seem`s quite happy with it,so it all ended happily,plus it was a bit big for my small layout!.

 

I too was looking at a 37,i`ve even brought the up-grade kit in readiness,but i`m having seconed thought`s now,as i`e got four loco`s to play with anyway.

And plus i`ve just brought another American loco.... :secret:

 

Brian.

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Selling he 47 was a sort of last minute decision,as buying it had left a bit of a sour taste in my mouth. It was brought a mint, but was`nt as it turned out.

The seller 'discovered'? that the gears had stripped after i`d paid the money, but said they would fix it.To cut it short,i waited two months for the loco,they did offer a re-fund,but instead i negotiated a smaller re-fund to cover the replacement gears,but still have the loco.Let`s just say there is still no sign of the re-fund.....and i`ll not put any more bussiness there way either.

 

Anyhow i repaired it,and a guy locally brought it and seem`s quite happy with it,so it all ended happily,plus it was a bit big for my small layout!.

 

I too was looking at a 37,i`ve even brought the up-grade kit in readiness,but i`m having seconed thought`s now,as i`e got four loco`s to play with anyway.

And plus i`ve just brought another American loco.... :secret:

 

Brian.

 

 

HI Brian,

Ah, thats not a good situation.  Although you have jogged my memory that I must get hold of some replacement gears - touch wood I've never had any problems, but now having three 37s and four 47s which I believe are all susceptible, I really should get hold of some. I think a call to Howes is needed!  I'm always looking out for 37s and 47s, so if you see any in good/mint condition that your not interested in, let me know ;). Most of the ones I get hold of, go through a repaint ... really trying to find a couple of BR Blue liveried ones (but not the named Tower Limited Edition version) to create 47222 Appleby Frodingham and probably a silver roof un-named Stratford example .. I'll never have any money while I'm in this modelling lark!

 

Didn't realise you were into the American scene was well?  Dare one ask what the addition is?  Wisper if SWMBO is about ;)  :onthequiet:

 

Rich

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Talking of the Duffs, I'm eagerly awaiting the JLTRT version, I want a 47/1 and a 47/4 as these were my favourite diesels, anyone who remembers my Wrexbury layout will throw testament to that, I think I had around 22 in all! (I've still got about 12 of them tucked away for a rainy day ;) )

The O' Gauge Heljan 47 had its critics, but I think it could be made into a reasonable model overall, especially with the detailing kit from D. Parkins.

 

Looking at your fleet now Rich it's certainly growing, let me know if you happen to fall over any Heljan 31's!!!!

 

Jinty ;)

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Talking of the Duffs, I'm eagerly awaiting the JLTRT version, I want a 47/1 and a 47/4 as these were my favourite diesels, anyone who remembers my Wrexbury layout will throw testament to that, I think I had around 22 in all! (I've still got about 12 of them tucked away for a rainy day ;) )

The O' Gauge Heljan 47 had its critics, but I think it could be made into a reasonable model overall, especially with the detailing kit from D. Parkins.

 

Looking at your fleet now Rich it's certainly growing, let me know if you happen to fall over any Heljan 31's!!!!

 

Jinty ;)

I bought an original 47 to run on St Budoc, The Loco was nearly as long as the Scenic section of the Layout :no:  :no:

post-9335-0-11810800-1479766095_thumb.jpg

SOLD IT.....REGRET IT :nono: 

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'I'll never have any money while I'm in this modelling lark!'

 

I`m sure if you had`nt of spent it,then the authorities would have....3x37`s,4x`47`s,how many pair of shoes is that!!.

 

I`ve been into American railroads for quite a few years now,(about 20ish!) but i`ve taken a break to come back to my Britsh modeling root`s,hence Gosty Hill,this is my first British layout since i was about 14 and thoroughly enjoying it am too!

 

:offtopic:  look away now if your a hardend anglophile.....

 

I picked this up off flee bay for £275.

 

post-19751-0-89120500-1479766425.jpg

 

It`ll go in to stock till such time i get the urge to do some US modeling again.!

 

 

Brian.

 

 

 

 

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Evening guys,

 

'I'll never have any money while I'm in this modelling lark!'

 

I`m sure if you had`nt of spent it,then the authorities would have....3x37`s,4x`47`s,how many pair of shoes is that!!.

 

I`ve been into American railroads for quite a few years now,(about 20ish!) but i`ve taken a break to come back to my Britsh modeling root`s,hence Gosty Hill,this is my first British layout since i was about 14 and thoroughly enjoying it am too!

 

:offtopic:  look away now if your a hardend anglophile.....

 

I picked this up off flee bay for £275.

 

attachicon.gifDCC sound Atlas MP15DC.jpg

 

It`ll go in to stock till such time i get the urge to do some US modeling again.!

 

 

Brian.

 

Haha! Yes that could be true! As for shoes, don't even mention it ... my god that would not be worth thinking about!  Nice switcher there Brian, are Atlas plastic bodied, or brass?  I've a small interest in American modelling (had around £1,500 of HO stuff, which has been sold this year to fund the O gauge expansion) but what amazed me when I looked at the American O gauge stuff, is there are brass locos out there, ready fitted with DCC sound and lights, brand new, for the same kind of prices we're paying for Heljan!  Now that might have changed a little with the exchange rate alterations, but I did think the US O Gaugers were getting really good value for money.  Just remember if you decide to deviate, Foster Yeoman had a similar machine (ok it was an SW1000) but similar outline, could always be repainted and become an industrial branch :)

 

 

I bought an original 47 to run on St Budoc, The Loco was nearly as long as the Scenic section of the Layout :no:  :no:

attachicon.gifDSCF1009.jpg

SOLD IT.....REGRET IT :nono: 

 

Oh very nice Andy - yes I know what you mean.  When the Heljan 47s first came out, I bought a Blue 47, and got it numbered and named as 47222 - decided to sell it several years ago as I hit a period when I wasn't getting any time to model, didn't have the cash to support it, and thought this is silly, sell it and put the money in the bank which I did ... regretted it about six months after, and ever since.

 

... PS ... If you have a look on your O gauge thread, there's a little pressie for you on there! :) hope its ok.

 

 

Talking of the Duffs, I'm eagerly awaiting the JLTRT version, I want a 47/1 and a 47/4 as these were my favourite diesels, anyone who remembers my Wrexbury layout will throw testament to that, I think I had around 22 in all! (I've still got about 12 of them tucked away for a rainy day ;) )

The O' Gauge Heljan 47 had its critics, but I think it could be made into a reasonable model overall, especially with the detailing kit from D. Parkins.

 

Looking at your fleet now Rich it's certainly growing, let me know if you happen to fall over any Heljan 31's!!!!

 

Jinty ;)

 

 

Yes, I'm seriously thinking that in order to accomplish the options I want with my 47 fleet, I'm going to have to learn kit building.  God, that has me reaching for the extra sugar version of Pepsi! (The teetotallers version of the whisky glass) .... I think id probably enjoy it, given the time, but its a bit like the prospect of climbing Snowdon. I know I could do it if I put my mind to it, but there are easier walks and paths to do first .. like building the layout :)  As you say, the Heljan option has its critics, but for me they look really nice models, especially once my mate has put various detailing bits on to them before the repaints!

 

I'll keep my eyes open, if I carry on like this I'll have to upgrade to dealer status!  I presume its a green one your after? You know Tower have a few green ones with SYP left?

 

Rich

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Finally made a little bit of progress on the next point work this afternoon in that all the sleepers are down!

 

IMG_4478.jpg

 

This as previously commented is a crossover and catch point for the light rail system that will run on a higher level than the shed.  The catch points will not follow the plan totally, hence why the longer sleepers stop short.  This was my first attempt at sleeper shoving in Templot, and seems to have worked ok!

 

IMG_4481.jpg

 

I've now got the evening to myself so another little project that Paul (pjking) of this parish has spurred me into having a go at.  It will either be brilliant, kind of average, or a complete disaster!  More later :)

 

Rich

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Looking good so far Rich.

I`m sure that with the knowledge you`ve gained with the first point build,you`ll be able to do this one with your eye`s closed.... ;)

 

Brian,

 

:offtopic:

PS, the Atlas O loco`s have a cast underframe/walkway with a plastic body on top.

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Looking good so far Rich.

I`m sure that with the knowledge you`ve gained with the first point build,you`ll be able to do this one with your eye`s closed.... ;)

 

Brian,

 

:offtopic:

PS, the Atlas O loco`s have a cast underframe/walkway with a plastic body on top.

 

Thanks Brian.  Not so sure about eyes closed, lol!  But hopefully have a bit more of an idea.  Need to try and get the 'set' into this crossover, as the light rail vehicles will be running over a bit faster than locos pottering around the depot!

 

 

Lovely neat work on the Sleepers Rich, almost a shame to cover them in Track, hahah.

 

That's going to look so neat.

 

 

Cheers Andy, thats appreciated!

 

Rich

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Well guys, I have to say my modelling skills have been given a huge boost this evening, and I've attempted something else I've never done before!

 

Back at the Gauge O Guild event at Doncaster in July, I purchased a NE 20-ton brake van kit from Parkside Dundas. I've often thought of doing kits but really have steered clear as I wasn't happy I could make a decent job of things. I know I have high standards and become dishearten and disappointed when the outcome doesn't match the quality and detail that was in my mind at the start.  Its probably the wrong way of looking at things, but thats me!

 

However, with the whole depot building in my mind at Doncaster I thought, well I'll grab what looks like a reasonable kit and see how I get on.  Ok, its plastic and not etched brass or anything, but take things one step at a time.  So looking around I acquired the PD LNER 20-ton 'Toad E' goods brake van, with the view that they lasted into BR service, so if it worked it could form the first vehicle of an freight to run behind my A2!  The kit (PS113) cost £42 and one of the attractions was that it was a 'one-stop' shop - including wheels and transfers. So for an uninformed idiot like me, that sounded a good move. After back and forth chatting with Paul (pjking on rmWeb) over the past few days, the conversation briefly turned to kits and I remembered the purchase from Doncaster that was still sat sealed in the box on the shelf! 

 

Well, tonight I've had the evening to myself with no disturbances or distractions, and I've set to it.  Given this is my first kit, I didn't think it was a good idea to do a bit by bit write up, I'm bound to make mistakes and there are likely better ways of doing things, so didn't want to be telling people wrong.  However, Im conscious that like Paul and me, there are people out there who feel kits be they wagon, coach or loco are well beyond them, so I've done a batch of photos as I've been building this evening, and hopefully they may be of interest to people.

 

The kit is quite neat when it arrives, although the number of parts do make you think what have I taken on here!

 

IMG_4483.jpg

 

IMG_4484.jpg

 

IMG_4485.jpg

 

However, the instructions from Parkside Dundas are good (in the main) and the schematic drawing helps to put things in perspective.

 

IMG_4486.jpg

 

Having followed the instructions and go the internal doors glazed, the brass wire door handles added, and the guards look outs glazed, the body is then brought together.  The one problem I found was that the long sides were slightly banana shape, and it took some work to get everything to come square, and in the end, I abandoned my Revell plastic cement in favour of superglue - with just a small dab added at the ends to hold things in place, which seems to have worked well.

 

IMG_4490.jpg

 

IMG_4494.jpg

 

From here, its then on to the start of the under frame, sorting the axleboxes out, in the end, I did these slightly different from the instructions as I just couldn't see how the method in the instructions could work.  

 

IMG_4503.jpg

 

However, once these were fitted, and the W irons added to the solebars, which were added to the body, the wheels were then added.

 

Thats brought me to the end of the world for tonight, at 11pm, my eyes were starting to go!  So time to go curl up with a DVD and a cup for half and hour and watch archive diesels or one of the superb B&R DVDs from the 1950s/60s!  Hope its been a little bit interesting for those of you who, like me have never attempted a wagon kit before, and for those that have, well you can probably pick holes in where I've gone wrong!  I think there is about four hours work in this so far, so 8-10 hours to complete a wagon build, bearing in mind its the first one I've ever done, I reckon is quite good :)

 

IMG_4507.jpg

 

IMG_4514.jpg

 

Will it be the last kit? Definitely, not!  I've really enjoyed putting this together, although I'm only half way through it at the moment.  Lots of under frame and wheel detail to add, let along painting and transfer - this may also become the guinea pig for trying out weathering! As for what livery it will be finished in NE or BR, I'm undecided - thinking the latter could end up arriving on Marsh Lane shed, while the former could be a preserved example for a brake van trip on the light rail system behind the industrial 08, or maybe a visiting Peckett for some anniversary!

 

With any luck, a bit more may be done tomorrow afternoon.  As alway, comments are welcome.

 

Rich

 

EDIT: Forgot the last two images!

Edited by MarshLane
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Hi Rich,

 

I'm not a person that criticizes, and please don't take this as criticism, as your first attempt at kit building seems to have gone very well, but I'm puzzled as to how you got the axlebox assemblies into the sliders of the W irons after they'd been assembled? All the Parkside kits are generic in their construction, and the axleboxes are designed to be made up as a sliding fit into the W iron using the bearing, this gives their designed form of compensation. I'm just puzzled as to how you put them together seemingly after they were assembled.

 

Otherwise your kit building is good, you might want to try a liquid glue such as Mek as this 'wicks' along joints to give a more thorough hold.

Excellent job, on what is not the easiest Parkside kit to undertake for a first attempt.

 

Jinty ;)

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Just caught up Rich, great work on the kit and the sleppers look really good, looking forward to the next update, wish I was brave enough to do a kit!!

Cheers

 

Paul I would have had the same response as you, but having done this one, I would now say to anyone have a go! Without a doubt, there is a difference between Etched Brass and Plastic, I've yet to build the courage to tackle the former, but I have a feeling I might yet give it a go one of these days!

 

 

Hi Rich,

 

I'm not a person that criticizes, and please don't take this as criticism, as your first attempt at kit building seems to have gone very well, but I'm puzzled as to how you got the axlebox assemblies into the sliders of the W irons after they'd been assembled? All the Parkside kits are generic in their construction, and the axleboxes are designed to be made up as a sliding fit into the W iron using the bearing, this gives their designed form of compensation. I'm just puzzled as to how you put them together seemingly after they were assembled.

 

Otherwise your kit building is good, you might want to try a liquid glue such as Mek as this 'wicks' along joints to give a more thorough hold.

Excellent job, on what is not the easiest Parkside kit to undertake for a first attempt.

 

Jinty ;)

Hi Jinty, (this thing still wants to call you Minty!)

Thanks for the comment, I feel really upbeat finding out that it's not the easiest of the Parkside kits! Or maybe I haven't got to the hard bit yet!!!

 

No criticism taken - you know me, unless anyone pulls it apart without offering advice or a better way of doing things, I welcome all comments and queries.

 

The axle boxes, to be honest, were the only bit so far that has caused me problems. I did them as per the instructions with all three sections glued together with the bearing end, but then found that a) I struggled to get the wheel set in, and b) when it was in, the 'W" irons were pushing outwards and the wagon wasn't free running.

 

So having pondered for a few minutes and though, hang on, the way the three parts form up, there is a side groove in each axle box, so gently praised the back section and bearing holder off the other two parts and married them back up again, through the W Irons. They do still slide up and down (although admittedly I've glued one slightly wrong so it doesn't slide!) but with the wheelset in place, the W irons are not pushing out any longer, and the wheels are free running.

 

That is totally different from how the instructions say. Do you do them a different way?

 

Rich

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Hi Rich, I always enjoy MOST Parkside Kits, when doing O Gauge before I would always take 2 or 3 away on Holiday for the evening whilst SWMBO was watching the Soaps. I found the Axel Boxes the most difficult but now with practice they are getting easier to do.  Yours is an excellent example, well done, and a lot lot lot better than my first attempt.

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Hi Rich, I always enjoy MOST Parkside Kits, when doing O Gauge before I would always take 2 or 3 away on Holiday for the evening whilst SWMBO was watching the Soaps. I found the Axel Boxes the most difficult but now with practice they are getting easier to do. Yours is an excellent example, well done, and a lot lot lot better than my first attempt.

Andy,

Many thanks, very kind comments, much appreciated.

 

Rich

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Hi Rich,

 

Well firstly I make up the axle box units with the W irons before fitting the whole thing to the solebar.

The thicker (Ir T shaped piece from plan view) shaped piece is filed gently so that it is a very free moving within the W iron.

I then place it in the W iron with the bearing pushed through but not glued. I then turn it over so that the bearing is stuck through facing you and the W iron is sitting either side of the central piece.

Then I place the thin square bit over the bearing, creating a 'slidebar type of assembly. Once this is in place (not glued) I then add 1 drop of thick superglue to the end of the bearing only, and push the axle box down onto the whole assembly. I use the Javis red top superglue for this. This has the effect of gluing the bearing end to the inside of the axle box and the flange of the bearing holds the 'Slidebar' assembly in place on the inside.

Once the superglue has gone off, the axlebox should move very freely within the W iron, and once fitted to the solebar and cured, should be able to be sprung outwards to accept the wheels/axles.

 

There is one specific way the thin square piece fits, have a look using the rear sliding piece as a guide.

If you want I'll put a photo montage up with a blow by blow of PD W iron/Axlebox construction if you want. It's certainly worked for me, but I'm also not saying it's 'THE' only way of going about it.

 

Minty Jinty ;)

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Just to be controversial, the Parkside "compensation" doesn't work...

 

It's theoretically and practically wrong: as the axle box is outboard of the wheel, the resultant effort will be to lift the unloaded wheel, not to force it down.

 

If you want working compensation, you need a fulcrum between the wheels, which I tend to do with a bit of wire that pressses in the middle of one axle. I fix the other pair of axleboxes.

 

The brake van looks good - well done!

 

I'd second David's suggestion of using a liquid solvent rather than poly cement.

 

Best

Simon

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Just to be controversial, the Parkside "compensation" doesn't work...

 

It's theoretically and practically wrong: as the axle box is outboard of the wheel, the resultant effort will be to lift the unloaded wheel, not to force it down.

 

If you want working compensation, you need a fulcrum between the wheels, which I tend to do with a bit of wire that pressses in the middle of one axle. I fix the other pair of axleboxes.

 

The brake van looks good - well done!

 

I'd second David's suggestion of using a liquid solvent rather than poly cement.

 

Best

Simon

Simon, It's not just me then! I'd always thought the PD "compensation" was a bit suspect and now I know why.

I've toyed with the idea of drilling a hole in the axlebox tops and using Slaters buffer springs as suspension, taking advantage of the moving axleboxes. Your idea of using a bit of wire to provide  3point compensation is probably simpler though.

 

Anyway Rich, excellent work on the Wagon so far, you worked out the axleboxes in the end and all seems OK with it. I think my first PD kit was a 16ton mineral wagon and I still have it on our layout. I added a small slab of lead flashing to the floor of the wagon and covered it with a part load of coal.

 

Keep up the good work, those plastic wagon kits are both addictive and therapeutic!

 

Jon F.

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Just to be controversial, the Parkside "compensation" doesn't work...

 

It's theoretically and practically wrong: as the axle box is outboard of the wheel, the resultant effort will be to lift the unloaded wheel, not to force it down.

 

If you want working compensation, you need a fulcrum between the wheels, which I tend to do with a bit of wire that pressses in the middle of one axle. I fix the other pair of axleboxes.

 

The brake van looks good - well done!

 

I'd second David's suggestion of using a liquid solvent rather than poly cement.

 

Best

Simon

Simon, a question please, when gluing the fixed axel, do you fix it at the top, the bottom or in the middle somewhere.

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Well, Andy,

 

My recommendation would be to try to get the compensated axle located at about mid-travel, and once it's done, set the other axle to make the vehicle sit level. Better to do it second, as it's easy to do with solvent adhesive.

 

The compensation pivot can be a bit of stiff brass wire, bent into a square "U" and with the ends bent at 90 degrees in opposite directions. This can then be placed between the axle and the underside of the wagon, so the base of the "U" supports the axle, and the ends of the legs can then be melted into the plastic wagon floor with a soldering iron. This way, the brass is firmly fixed, it can be painted black and will be pretty much invisible.

 

Jon,

 

The sprung approach will certainly work, but as you suggest, probably more hassle than compensation.

 

Best

Simon

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Well, Andy,

 

My recommendation would be to try to get the compensated axle located at about mid-travel, and once it's done, set the other axle to make the vehicle sit level. Better to do it second, as it's easy to do with solvent adhesive.

 

The compensation pivot can be a bit of stiff brass wire, bent into a square "U" and with the ends bent at 90 degrees in opposite directions. This can then be placed between the axle and the underside of the wagon, so the base of the "U" supports the axle, and the ends of the legs can then be melted into the plastic wagon floor with a soldering iron. This way, the brass is firmly fixed, it can be painted black and will be pretty much invisible.

 

Jon,

 

The sprung approach will certainly work, but as you suggest, probably more hassle than compensation.

 

Best

Simon

 

 

Hi Simon,

Thanks for your input, I'm struggling to visualise how you do it .. any chance of a picture?

 

Rich

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Simon, It's not just me then! I'd always thought the PD "compensation" was a bit suspect and now I know why.

I've toyed with the idea of drilling a hole in the axlebox tops and using Slaters buffer springs as suspension, taking advantage of the moving axleboxes. Your idea of using a bit of wire to provide  3point compensation is probably simpler though.

 

Anyway Rich, excellent work on the Wagon so far, you worked out the axleboxes in the end and all seems OK with it. I think my first PD kit was a 16ton mineral wagon and I still have it on our layout. I added a small slab of lead flashing to the floor of the wagon and covered it with a part load of coal.

 

Keep up the good work, those plastic wagon kits are both addictive and therapeutic!

 

Jon F.

 

Thanks Jon,

Id like to say its another string to my bow, but a 50% completion of one kit, doesn't warrant that saying I don't think!  But I've enjoyed it.  Thanks for your comments.  This could have an impact on the history/background and period of main layout (oh god, I hear myself saying!) which may be to your advantage/disadvantage ... as its definitely going to mean more semaphores, and perhaps additional complications in the number of arms!

 

No further work on the wagon today, due to discovering my 1/32nd and 1mm drills appear to have sprouted legs and walked off somewhere!  Waiting on some new ones coming before I can finished the kit off.  The comment from my family today on the van was oh goodie, something different to buy you for Christmas!!

 

Rich

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