Upcoming O gauge sale - End of the line at Marsh Lane

[peter220950]

 

 

Can anyone recommend a good resource (Book or website) for working out what resistor you want for different applications. Im sure I've seen a table online somewhere, that shows the output from each type/level of resister when given 12v input, but I cannot find it at all.

 

Rich

 

This may help, though any search for calculating resistor for led's will find similar

 

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/

 

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

 

Not a great expert but I think that if you work on a forward voltage of about 3v and current of about 20mA you should be o.k. this gives a 470ohm resistor as a starter to try.

 

Peter

[MarshLane]

Very much enjoyed this thread and the pictures.

 

Hi,

Many thanks for the kind comments - plenty more to come, hope you'll stay along for the ride and continue to enjoy it!

 

I use the 'HOLD IT AND SEE' method (hold LED leg on rail with one hand, hold other leg attached to resistor with other hand and touch other end of resistor on other rail!), but I do find that most LED's will give a nice subtle glow with a 10K resistor attached.

 

By the way, I purchase my very fine wire from SWD, they do it in all the decoder colours and it's great for hiding away with being so thin.

 

Jinty

 

 

Thanks Jinty.

I'll try that ... can I put responsibility down to you for any burns that may be incurred .  Insurance claim form reads something like "Well, Jinty didn't offer any Health & Safety advice, such as 'resisters may get hot so leave go at the warm point!" lol!! 

 

Seriously thanks .. I know all the coloured bands on resisters designate different types and values, was just trying to work out which one(s) I needed, but I'll shove 10K resister in to eBay and see what comes up.

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/Choosing-The-Resistor-To-Use-With-LEDs/

 

http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz

 

Not a great expert but I think that if you work on a forward voltage of about 3v and current of about 20mA you should be o.k. this gives a 470ohm resistor as a starter to try.

 

Peter

 

 

Thanks Peter,

 

Thats appreciated.  I'll have a look!

 

Rich

[Simond]

Rich,

 

You don't need a book, although there are a couple of good ones out there, if you want to go deeper into electronics for models. You can also join MERG who are mega-helpful. For now, all you need is Ohm's law: current = voltage divided by resistance.

 

LEDs will burn out if the current exceeds a few milliamperes (mA, milliamps, thousandths of an Amp) - the actual number depends on the particular components used, but you'll (usually) be safe to assume that the maximum should be around 15mA, and the supply voltage is around 15V, so you can see that the resistor should be not less than 1000 Ohms (typically written with an Ohm sign, Omega, or simply with a K for Kilohms 1K0).

 

Larger values will limit the current, and thus lower the light output. David's "try and see" approach works well, as long as you have a resistor above 1K0. Some short test wires with croc clips, or a breadboard, are useful for these "try-out" situations.

 

Some LEDs are labelled "12V". This typically means they have a built in resistor.

 

Best

Simon

[PjKing1]

Even though I did electronics in college I've forgotten most of the simple stuff and it now frightens the life out of me

 

Cheers

Edited November 30, 2016 by PjKing1

[Fastdax]

 

You are a genius - I didn't know such things exists.  I've been looking at little circuits and chips that will do Flickering, but it never occurred to me to see if you could get a flickering LED.  I've ordered a couple, so we'll give them a try.  

 

Rich

 

Hi Rich,

 

Have you considered one of these motion-activated flickering LED units from Train-Tech?

 

Here's a quick video of one of their AL2 units which I got, intending to fit it into a brake van.

 

 

As you see, it responds to movement/vibraton (it's quite sensitive enough to put in an item of rolling stock and have it activate when the unit moves off). It will run for a minute or so after motion ceases. It seems to have a "false alarm" feature where a single vibration/tap only activates it for a few seconds. It takes repeated or constant motion to trigger it for longer.

 

The advantage for me is: no pickups required, no DCC decoder, no switch, no wiring of any kind if you can plug an LED straight into the unit. The LED in the video is a 2mm red tower LED, plugged into the "LO" outputs. The other 2 holes are "HI" which makes the LED brighter.

 

It's still running on its original CR2032 button-cell battery a couple of years on, although this is not constant layout use.

 

No connection with Train-Tech - just a happy customer.

 

Duncan

[MarshLane]

Rich,

 

You don't need a book, although there are a couple of good ones out there, if you want to go deeper into electronics for models. You can also join MERG who are mega-helpful. For now, all you need is Ohm's law: current = voltage divided by resistance.

 

LEDs will burn out if the current exceeds a few milliamperes (mA, milliamps, thousandths of an Amp) - the actual number depends on the particular components used, but you'll (usually) be safe to assume that the maximum should be around 15mA, and the supply voltage is around 15V, so you can see that the resistor should be not less than 1000 Ohms (typically written with an Ohm sign, Omega, or simply with a K for Kilohms 1K0).

 

Larger values will limit the current, and thus lower the light output. David's "try and see" approach works well, as long as you have a resistor above 1K0. Some short test wires with croc clips, or a breadboard, are useful for these "try-out" situations.

 

Some LEDs are labelled "12V". This typically means they have a built in resistor.

 

Best

Simon

 

Hi Simon,

Thanks for that.  Yes, I've just joined MERG to be honest. I've been thinking about it for ages, but there's a few things electronic coming up that I want to do with the big layout, so I think its a good move.

Rich

 

 

Hi Rich,

 

Have you considered one of these motion-activated flickering LED units from Train-Tech?

 

Here's a quick video of one of their AL2 units which I got, intending to fit it into a brake van.

 

 

As you see, it responds to movement/vibraton (it's quite sensitive enough to put in an item of rolling stock and have it activate when the unit moves off). It will run for a minute or so after motion ceases. It seems to have a "false alarm" feature where a single vibration/tap only activates it for a few seconds. It takes repeated or constant motion to trigger it for longer.

 

The advantage for me is: no pickups required, no DCC decoder, no switch, no wiring of any kind if you can plug an LED straight into the unit. The LED in the video is a 2mm red tower LED, plugged into the "LO" outputs. The other 2 holes are "HI" which makes the LED brighter.

 

It's still running on its original CR2032 button-cell battery a couple of years on, although this is not constant layout use.

 

No connection with Train-Tech - just a happy customer.

 

Duncan

 

 

Hi Duncan,

How interesting. I'd looked at those in the past and discounted them for what I wanted, but actually seeing your little demo there, makes me think there could be a couple of options available!

 

I'll give that more thought!

 

Cheers

Rich

[MarshLane]

Rich,

 

Might I suggest you look at one of these??

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UHn2l0UGvJE&feature=em-upload_owner

 

And the source of these wonders? - Flickering Tea lights from Ebay and the like, there's a small chip in them that gives the flicker, and best of all they are dirt cheap.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SmartLight-YELLOW-Flameless-LED-Battery-Tea-Light-Candles-Tealights-KID-PET-SAFE-/381487500262?var=&hash=item58d26d4be6:m:mn_R44HeHx8fnL_q5I6so3A

 

Peter

Peter,

Thanks for the heads up on those. One for experimental purposes has been acquired from eBay and arrived this afternoon, so I shall be having a play this evening and seeing what I can do with it. I can eventually see the battery being replaced by DCC connections, but either way, it is a quick and simply answer to the internal gas light question!

 

Thanks

Rich

[MarshLane]

Peter, having had a little play with the part built brake van tonight - that works perfectly! I'm really pleased with it. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up.

 

To anyone who has done copper clad trackwork before - following the comment earlier I'm seriously thinking about this for the fiddle yard work on the big layout as it will all be out of sight. Are there any advantages/disadvantages? What kind of solder and iron size is best? All advise gratefully received.

 

Rich

[Jintyman]

Peter, having had a little play with the part built brake van tonight - that works perfectly! I'm really pleased with it. I'll post a pic tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up.

 

To anyone who has done copper clad trackwork before - following the comment earlier I'm seriously thinking about this for the fiddle yard work on the big layout as it will all be out of sight. Are there any advantages/disadvantages? What kind of solder and iron size is best? All advise gratefully received.

 

Rich

 

 

I did some copperclad construction in OO and I found it very easy to get right. I'm thinking of using the same approach with the 'Brecon' yard that will be at the bottom of the garden in the shed.

I've seen quite a few fiddle yards done with copperclad and they only used every 4th sleeper or so! So some saving on materials I would think.

 

Jinty  

[MarshLane]

I did some copperclad construction in OO and I found it very easy to get right. I'm thinking of using the same approach with the 'Brecon' yard that will be at the bottom of the garden in the shed.

I've seen quite a few fiddle yards done with copperclad and they only used every 4th sleeper or so! So some saving on materials I would think.

 

Jinty

 

Thanks mate,

That's an interesting thought that it doesn't need every sleeper, especially on straight track, just enough to hold the gauge together. Wow, another penny dropping moment!

 

In the nicest way, can I ask you hurry up with Brecon yard then I have something to follow

 

Rich

[Jintyman]

Thanks mate,

That's an interesting thought that it doesn't need every sleeper, especially on straight track, just enough to hold the gauge together. Wow, another penny dropping moment!

 

In the nicest way, can I ask you hurry up with Brecon yard then I have something to follow

 

Rich

 

The Brecon yard won't even be contemplated until the middle of next year!!

Too much to do, new shed for it, concrete base, etc!!!

 

There are a couple of layouts on here that feature rationalised sleepering in the fiddle yard, Michael Delamar's layout (the title escapes me this early) is a fine example of it.

 

Jinty

[Jintyman]

Just found it,   'Walton on the hill' is the name of the layout.

Rationalised fiddle yard here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80129-walton-on-the-hill-27e-liverpool-em-gauge/?p=2368107

 

 

Hope that helps

 

Jinty

[MarshLane]

The Brecon yard won't even be contemplated until the middle of next year!!

Too much to do, new shed for it, concrete base, etc!!!

 

Jinty

Well that's just not good enough! What are you playing at? Relaxing until next year? Pah! Andy P could have completed two layouts in that time!!!! Hehe!

 

Thanks for talking the time to find the layout link, that's appreciated. I'll take a look and have a read. Your latest signals from the master himself, Jon F, look superb btw!

 

Rich

Edited December 2, 2016 by MarshLane

[Andrew P]

Rich I've just deleted my post that should have been on Jintys thread, sorry if it confused you, and your right of course, he needs to get a move on and get that line working soon.

[MarshLane]

Rich I've just deleted my post that should have been on Jintys thread, sorry if it confused you, and your right of course, he needs to get a move on and get that line working soon.

 

 

No problem mate. Its nice that there is a group all interested in each other's layouts, I easily get confused tho!

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

Well I said yesterday that I would post a picture of the tea-light ... and having taken the one below, decided it didn't really show the effect (perhaps that was predictable!) so theres a little uninteresting video clip attached for anyone who is interested too!  Hoping to make some more progress with the guards van tomorrow, and possibly with the point as well!
 

 

 
[media=1280,720]

[/media]
 
It will be nice when the layout is underway and the video's can get more interesting!
 
Rich

[MarshLane]

Evening all,

Spent a very enjoyable couple of hours at the Gainsborough Model Railway this afternoon.  If you've not heard of it, or seen it, its a large O Gauge layout, the origins of which date back to 1946, and recreates the ECML primarily during the 1930s-1960s between Kings Cross and Leeds.  10 Signallers, 180 locos and authentic bell codes between signal boxes.  Pure bliss!  If you've always thought of going, go see it!

 

I've posted a few pics below to give a flavour, but put a load more on my new 7mm dedicated Flickr site (see https://www.flickr.com/photos/marshlane/albums/72157673479573653) for the full collection, or the link in my signature for the home page!  My father was with me, who has taken a load of video, so once I've had time to edit it down, I'll post that on here too.  Well worth a look - their next open day is 30th December, then Easter next year.  Unfortunately, I don't think their own website does the layout justice, but if you like O gauge, like authentic operation and have some time to spare, its well worth a visit!  

 

Rich

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 4, 2016 by MarshLane

[Andrew P]

Wow Rich, Some of our Club guys went up last year, I must grab a seat next time they go up. Looks sooooooo good.

[MarshLane]

Wow Rich, Some of our Club guys went up last year, I must grab a seat next time they go up. Looks sooooooo good.

 

 

Hi Andy,

It really is - wait until you see the video!  If you do get up this way, let me know and I'll come over and meet you.

 

Rich

[Jon Fitness]

Ah Gainsborough

It does. to me anyway, embody everything that is wonderful about O gauge. Full signalling, long express trains,  plenty of excellent fairly high speed running and generally superb atmosphere.

I've been 3 times now and I was once lucky enough to go with a friend who operates there occasionally. He gave me a guided tour of all the control panels whilst it was running and it certainly keeps the operators on their toes as everything seems to happen at 100mph! I was even taken upstairs into the loco maintenance area and seeing all the A4s and V2s etc lined up for servicing was awesome!

As Rich said, if you haven't been yet, go when you get an opportunity as it's one of those "must see" layouts.

 

JF

Edited December 5, 2016 by Jon Fitness

[jollysmart]

It really is a great layout that has evolved over a long period, I can remember going on a club night with a chap called Roy Jackson when his model of Gainsborough Central was under construction, many more years ago than I care to remember. I think you must have been lucky with your visit Rich as the last time I went it was absolutely heaving it was completely full of people. Anyway good to see some exposure and I do agree that their website could do with being a bit more informative.

[Deano747]

WOW!!! It's enormous!!! 

 

Regards, Deano.

[MarshLane]

Hi Jollysmart & Deano,

It certainly is large!  The building its in is the old Victorian School House in Gainsborough, although I believe the small room on the side that houses Retford (and the loo!) was a Society addition. Given the age of some of the models now, a few really could do with touching up and repainting, but I guess thats all part of the rolling plan.

 

I'll try and get the video up later today or tomorrow, work depending!

 

Rich

[MarshLane]

Evening guys,

Well I've discovered having a birthday does give you some benefits, I've had a half day off work!! Yay!  Just a shame its my 38th and not 28th  

 

So with that, spent an hour or so adding the brake shoes and becoming totally confused at the brake rigging on this Parkside 'Toad E' kit.  A couple of pictures below - anyone whose tackled these before - can you tell me if I'm right or not?  The instructions and diagrams seem to contract each other, and it doesn't look right to me!  #confused!

 

Rich

 

EDIT: Ah! Its just dawned on me - should the brake rodding go between the base and the axle, rather than the axle and the trackbed as I've got it at the moment?

 

 

 

 

Edited December 7, 2016 by MarshLane