RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted May 3, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 3, 2021 After some disturbance by the 0-gauge loco upgrade I am back to Donnersbachkogel. As I need access to the shed I made magnets on the lightbar and put 2 6mm round iron bar pieces on the roof. The have a slit cut in and they are glued to the spars. The magnets are pretty strong, I have to be careful when removing the roof not to ripp the complete shed off the ground... 20210501_165732 The whole shed is screwed to the baseboard to allow mainenance shoud this be necessary. I tried to hide the screws so the visitor doesn't spot them. 20210503_165241 The balast is still wet, and only when it is completely dry I will cut the rail at the baseboard connection. So far I am quite happy with my progress. 20210503_165149 20210503_165222 Next I will look at the doors and at the light connection. I also noticed that there are 2 problems on the layout - the station lights do not work and there is a dead zone on one of the points. So you get never bored.... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted May 22, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2022 Well as it looks it took me a year to get on with this loco shed... Well, after some headscratching I made a mechanism for the doors, they are servo driven, using an old barrier crossing mechanism from Conrad. See here the mechanism IMG20220522164136 and the control board which is at the fiddle yard side. IMG20220522164624 And a short video how the thing works. Sorry for the background noises... VID20220522172224 And why I am busy now? Well - Milton Keynes Model railway club will have a show on the 16th of July, and I will have my layout on display there. Hope to see some of you there! 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGO Posted June 10, 2022 Share Posted June 10, 2022 Fascinating reading about the memory wire, if I read it right you get about 3mm of contraction for a 100mm wire ? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted June 11, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11, 2022 11 hours ago, DGO said: Fascinating reading about the memory wire, if I read it right you get about 3mm of contraction for a 100mm wire ? That is correct. And I am well happy that it works - also after more than 15 years. Had a Piko loco in the club yesterday, works like on the first day. Even it is more fiddly than putting in a small servo, I prefer the smooth movement. The locos I did with servo all show some vibrations during the movement. The memory wire doesn't. A very smooth movement, the speed is determined by the current and how quick it cools down. And please don't forget: If you want to see it with your own eyes (and you are not too far away) - Milton Keynes Model Railway Society Exhibition 16th July 2022 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGO Posted June 11, 2022 Share Posted June 11, 2022 5 hours ago, Vecchio said: That is correct. And I am well happy that it works - also after more than 15 years. Had a Piko loco in the club yesterday, works like on the first day. Even it is more fiddly than putting in a small servo, I prefer the smooth movement. The locos I did with servo all show some vibrations during the movement. The memory wire doesn't. A very smooth movement, the speed is determined by the current and how quick it cools down. And please don't forget: If you want to see it with your own eyes (and you are not too far away) - Milton Keynes Model Railway Society Exhibition 16th July 2022 If I were closer ... sadly it's almost a 4 hour train journey each way with a minimum £77 return fare ... Ouch Do you just use one of the accessory lines on a DCC decoder to power it ? And I assume that you can leave the power on to keep the pantograph in the down position ? Annoyingly because I plan to use this on a rack rail system with gradients going between 0 up to 20% and back I think I need to include a sprung follower as well, should be ... interesting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted June 11, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 11, 2022 Have a good show, unfortunately I have a prior appointment in the opposite direction that day. (Fortunately also playing trains) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted June 11, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11, 2022 3 hours ago, DGO said: Do you just use one of the accessory lines on a DCC decoder to power it ? Yes, decoders were Zimo MX63 or MX64 (now you see that stuff was a few years ago as those are types from the early 2000s and no longer available...). Total current for all 4 functions was 500mA max, I used rather large (5W) resistors in series to the memory wire, to keep the current at or below 100mA. Didn't kill a single decoder.... The total resistance of the memory wire plus the resistor should be not lower than 180Ohm if you use an 18V system. The fine regulation, which determines how fast the panto moves up, can be done by dimming the function output (dimming with CV60, determination which function output(s) with CV114). The Zimo instructions for small decoders are a real bible for the enthusiast, even I use quite a few things in my models, there are still many things I didn't try. 84 pages worth a read. 4 hours ago, DGO said: I assume that you can leave the power on to keep the pantograph in the down position ? Other way round. The pantos are up with power on. Yes I left the power on as I normally try to drive with panto up. (until something gets broken.... ). The change in the crystalline system where the effect starts and the wire contracts was for the wire I used approximately at 50 degrees C. Means the wire gets warm or even hot, best to have it in an area where nothing delicate can be touched. Some people used a Teflon tube to keep the wire separate. This has also the advantage that it reacts slower if you switch the power off (Thermal insulation). The question is if there is enough space to do so. Probably in 0 scale rather than in H0. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted June 11, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted June 11, 2022 4 hours ago, PaulRhB said: Have a good show, unfortunately I have a prior appointment in the opposite direction that day. (Fortunately also playing trains) Thanks Paul, sure we meet again at one or the other show. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 8, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 8, 2022 The show is only one week away, The layout has been cleaned, a few overhead line wires have been re-soldered, locomotives are tested, and some bare patches have been re-grassed. One last minute work were the H0e coaches (which are actually German, but on a preserved railway everything is allowed..), they needed interior lights, as the train goes through a rather long tunnel. Also - the coaches were empty. Quickly solved the problem. Their Austrian sisters were slightly bigger, so I could hide a battery case under the car. In case of the German ones this is not possible. First to the interior: IMG20220708093446 Wires are enamelled wires, easy to hide. A few passengers are now present on the narrow benches. Looking from the outside the wires are perfectly hidden. The battery is in the floor, between the mold for the seats and the chassis part IMG20220708094611 On we go, now with light and passengers into the tunnel. IMG20220708102049 Over the weekend I will take the layout apart and pack up the rolling stock. Whoever has time - come and have a look! Exhibiton poster 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 13, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2022 Last preparations for the show.... IMG20220711133336 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted July 13, 2022 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 13, 2022 Extreme Ironing 🙂 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted August 4, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 4, 2022 The show went well, the cost was easily covered. As usual I had some overhead line trouble at the end of the show and I had to change one locomotive (as the panto was ripped off...) This is the risk when driving with panto up, but I think its worth taking that risk as it looks more realistic. What I also noticed (and I did know that before) is that the number of trains is limited by the size of my fiddle yard. Also the curve on module 1 (behind the scenery) is to sharp and doesn't allow certain locomotives to go on the layout. As there will be a little break in going on shows (there should be two in 2023, we will see if it works) I decided to upgrade my fiddle yard. I will remove the board extension I made in 2016 and make full size fiddle yard boards (120 x 60 cm) this should allow 6 or 7 tracks instead of 3 and also the problem of the radius in the curve will be solved. So: out with the old router jig, and some finger joints produced... Simple finger joint jig. I take no responsibility for people copying this and cutting into their own finger... IMG20220804151655 Some material has been prepared. IMG20220804151724 I will use the same technique as described in the first pages of this thread, so I will not go into to much detail here. Track is ordered, but first the woodwork has to be done. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted August 4, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 4, 2022 6 hours ago, Vecchio said: and I had to change one locomotive (as the panto was ripped off...) Ouch! I once bent a LGB one when it sprung up just before a bridge but apart from re bending the wire it wasn’t actually damaged. Do you know what caused it to catch or was it a failure of the pantograph? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted August 5, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 5, 2022 15 hours ago, Vecchio said: .........but I think its worth taking that risk as it looks more realistic. I do so agree. A pet hate of mine is running with pans down! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted August 5, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 5, 2022 14 hours ago, PaulRhB said: Do you know what caused it to catch or was it a failure of the pantograph? Yes, I do know. there is a particular section on the right hand of the station where I already had to put in a bracket in as the wires didn't follow the track. I did know that and avoided the middle track for that reason - but I didn't instruct my operators properly. My Rivarossi 1040 (which was busy doing a double header with a Roco 1042) has a rather small pan head, which is probably prototypical, but not very practical with the radii used on a model railway layout. So the pantograph slipped off and caught itself between the contact wire and the suspension wire. I didn't look at it in detail, probably a repair is possible, but I also have 2 spare pantographs of similar design from an old Klein-Modellbahn loco (which died like most of them from Mazak rot). They were good quality, probably coming from Sommerfeldt. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted August 6, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted August 6, 2022 On 05/08/2022 at 07:37, Re6/6 said: I do so agree. A pet hate of mine is running with pans down! And the next one on my list is the hand of god.... even people say magnetic uncouplers are not realistic they are much more realistic than an oversized shovel shaped stick coming down from the sky... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 7, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2022 (edited) Quick report from the fiddle yard project. Woodwork done, I am now glueing underlay and track to the boards. Legs and board, sorry for the camera position, I can asure the legs are straight... IMG20220902172057 Track laying started... IMG20221105230107 ...and a bit further. I cannot work on more than 3 boards at a time as otherwise I have no room to move in the workshop. IMG20221107092332 IMG20221107112552 Electrics: I will not use the Megapoints controller for the fiddle yard but try my luck with DCC. Plan is to use cheap surface mounted point motors (I got a few used ones for almost no money) and Digikeijs switch decoders. This should bring me down to 2 wires 🙂.... (not really as everybody will know) Edited November 7, 2022 by Vecchio Some photo problems... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 21, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2022 A few days later, all track is laid. Now I am playing with the Z21 control station and Digikeijs DR4018. Unfortunately, one of my cheap surface control motors had a short and killed one of the DR4018 channels. I can control 7 points now instead of 8. Also I got crazy with the 3-way points on the Z21. From time to time it is impossible to switch to a certain direction. The setting was correct, as long as in editing mode all works, in drive mode it switches always back into the middle track. Also, the symbol on the touch screen is quite small, you need lady's fingertips to reach the right position. So as a quick improvement I changed from 3-way symbol to 2 normal points. The schematic view in the control station looks a bit different, but it works. IMG20221120205516 And there are a few more wires than 2 on this board... IMG20221121190520 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted November 22, 2022 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2022 18 hours ago, Vecchio said: Also, the symbol on the touch screen is quite small, you need lady's fingertips to reach the right position. So as a quick improvement I changed from 3-way symbol to 2 normal points. Good solution 👍 I still use the old app as I prefer to make the point symbol small and use the route buttons which you can resize and place to make it easy. I found the same with points bunched together as it was too easy to swipe a second one and get the wrong route! Hopefully bump into you at the weekend again, I’m there both days and helping on Neuberg on Sunday 😀 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted November 22, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 22, 2022 (edited) Paul, Thanks for the hint where to find you, will be there on Sunday! Edited November 22, 2022 by Vecchio Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted December 5, 2022 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 5, 2022 Last August I was writing about the broken pantograph on my historic 1040 loco, last weekend I was going to attack the beast. First I spent an hour on Hornby and Rivarossi (also Hornby....) spare part sites to find a spare pantograph for this model, but without success. It is a 2020 model, so I thought there should be something. But for some reason there is no spare part for this particular loco available even when in the box is a nice little spare parts page showing all the parts and their numbers. After that I started to look into my bits collection, even I have a few pantographs from locos which went into the loco heaven, of course nothing which could be used. IMG20221204222307 I have to say the panto used on this Rivarossi loco was really very nice, I think they used photo etched parts for it. The metal under the red paint looks like brass, but it didn't take any solder, so repair was practically impossible. What I could do is to rebuild the panto with its broken parts in closed position and fix it with a bit of superglue. I am pleased with the result. IMG20221204215854 IMG20221204215844 IMG20221204215839 This means the loco has now only one working panto and can go back on the layout. And for those forgetful moments of me or my layout drivers I put a note on the inner box so that nobody tries to lift it up.... IMG20221204215921 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 1, 2023 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 1, 2023 Donnersbachkogel fell into a deep sleep, and even couldn't be set up as my sauna project was in the way (or rather occupied half of my shed). My better half found a used element sauna for little money, and I refurbished the elements during the summer of 2022. As I have some bookings this summer I need to set up the layout to see if everything is working . So I was busy the last few month to get the sauna project out of the way and into summerhouse two, where it belongs. For who is interested what I do if I am not working or playing with trains - see yourself.First the summerhouse IMG20230630173457 On the right hand side the sauna IMG20230630162357 And inside the sauna IMG20230630162418 On the left hand side a bathroom with shower and toilet. IMG20230630162823 Now that this is finished I clean up summer house no1 to get the layout back up. IMG20230701195857 And here is the sleeping beauty which will be woken up tomorrow... IMG20230701195908 The planned new fiddle yard is unfortunately no finished and has to wait for the next season... Only 2 hands and a bad back - this is my excuse... I am not that far away from finishing the fiddle yard, but I do not want to risk anything a few weeks before the shows. State of the fiddle yard today... IMG20230701195951 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 2, 2023 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 2, 2023 (edited) After a day of setting up/error searching and finally a bit of playing I can say the following. Of course there were the usual spider webs, some bent overhead line and the obligatory short circuit at the beginning. The short circuit I could cure within seconds, as there is one point which always has a problem after a longer break. one time switched and problem gone. Probably I shouldn't be lazy and change the microswitch to a frog juicer... But then some more trouble started. Half the signals didn't show lights and also the station lights didn't go, even I heard the relays clicking when I operate the switch. Well a bus wire from the DC bus was lose. Quickly written, but I took quite a time to find it. Mulitimeter and soldering iron are my friends... IMG20230702190643 Finally this is solved, but there is still one signal where the red light is not working... Also there is a switch at the mimic board I need to change, I cannot switch off the station lights... View through the window, there is no space to stand behind the layout. The background/scenic break isn't set up, as it makes life easier for testing. IMG20230702190456 IMG20230702190551 Some smaller issues were also found and corrected, at one board end the rail fixings were lose (temperature?) and had to be re-soldered. Also the shed door doesn't close, will have a look later this week. Shed door not closing. IMG20230702190821 A debut for the 1245 from Roco, it went quite well considering I didn't clean the tracks at all. VID20230702193838 So I am quite happy, I have more than a month time to get everything as it should be. If you are around and have time: why not coming for a look? 12th August in Roade (close to Northampton) or 19th August in Milton Keynes (Silverfox exhibition) Edited July 2, 2023 by Vecchio photo problems 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 6, 2023 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2023 (edited) I just noticed that my layout doesn’t have any ‘Grenzmarken’ (Limit markers, next to points, to show how close a railway car can go to the point without blocking the other track) How do they look? Photo taken by Priwo, 2006 There is no excuse, first I am Austrian and know about them, second I had them on my last Austrian show layout. So into the workshop and let’s start making some. There are commercial available products, but I have a well-stocked workshop, so it would be a shame buying them… Material: commercially available products are normally 3D printed resin. The real stuff is either concrete or even wood. So, for me it will be wood as well. What I need is some very dense wood, olive would be perfect, but I run out of this precious material. Next holiday in the Mediterranean will get the stock up (will purchase a cheap cutting board). Next best material, also more local, is oak. I normally keep nice pieces of oak in the workshop, which I cut into the necessary stripes with my trusted circular saw (Proxxon FKS). IMG20230706151948 Next step is the profile, which I mill in with an R1 concave mill cutter. With a 1.5mm cutter I mill the length and with a 90 degree cutter the sides. IMG20230706134124 IMG20230706134924 Now it is time for painting. 2 coats of white matt (or 1 coat cellulose filler and one coat white), and then the black ends. IMG20230706151234 Now it is time to cut them apart and remove any burr if there was one. Here we go. Time to fix them on the layout. IMG20230706155439 And finally in position. IMG20230706170341 Of course I am 3 pieces short, so I have to make another batch... Edited July 6, 2023 by Vecchio new photo 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Vecchio Posted July 31, 2023 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2023 Still fixing small hick-ups on my layout and check out rolling stock. Well my double decker fleet had an issue with a function decoder so I wanted to replace him. Put an old Hattons one on my program trolley (old Kleinbahn chassis) - and after some signs of life it gave up. I can still read CV's but no motor, no lights. Changed to an old Roco decoder (which was so terrible that I replaced it some years ago with a Zimo one). I just want the function outputs, but I need some load for programming it. And: surprise: same thing happened. First it worked, suddenly it stopped. Again, I can read and write CV's, but nothing else. Well - then I found that I made a short between the grey motor wire and mass (black) because of a lose screw which held the weight... Now I had to order a cheap decoder (Lais) to finish the job. Getting expensive to fix the light on that coach. 🤐😐 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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