SOUTHERN PRIDE COACHES

[paul 27]

Was thinking of converting some Bachmann coaches by replacing  the sides  with Southern Prides ones, is this

a difficult job  any one tried this,   thanks.

[SRman]

I can't answer regarding Bachmann coaches, but I have certainly done several such conversions using the older (less accurate) Triang-Hornby underframes. This did require a bit shaved off the back of the locating rib at the bottom of each Southern Pride side, otherwise the lower sides projected out too far.

Conversions I did include an unpowered 4 BEP unit, and a 3-car Bulleid BRCW set (the BR mark 1 underframe details really need altering for these).

[micklner]

This has been done using their Thompson Sides attached to a Bachmann base. Quite easy to do and good value/quality.

 

[31A]

Not difficult.

 

Here's one built for Gilbert ("Great Northern"), a Diagram 73 First Open built using parts from a Bachmann TSO:

 

 

As hardly any of the window positions coincided, I had to cut away a lot of the upper sides, and drill holes in places in the lower sides where the new hinges and door handles protrude on the inside.  Southern Pride brass sides then glued on with Evostik, having previously soldered door handles and hinges in place.  On the roof, cleaned off all the detail and replaced with new cast vents and bits of plastikard - easy.  On the underframe, had to make four new step boards from brass etch fret scrap as four of the doors are in different positions.  Probably most time consuming was the interior, bearing in mind that this basically holds together a Bachmann Mk1; I made a new floor and partitions from plastikard.  It was more time consuming than difficult though thanks to the Southern Pride moulded tables and seats being of good quality, as were the other parts I used.

 

[paul 27]

Was thinking of converting a TPO Sorting into a Brake Stowage, would this involve removing the sides.

[Mallard60022]

Was thinking of converting a TPO Sorting into a Brake Stowage, would this involve removing the sides.

My advice would normally be to remove all the side(s) except for the strip along the cantrail position (about 2/3 mm?) and the ends, leaving verticals and on a Stowage van this can be quite wide I should think. However, if you want to retain the clip fit parts from side to floor/chassis, if this is how Baccy bodies fit on the chassis, then don't take off the whole side(s), just cut away parts of the side if there are windows/vents of some sort. This last method is the easiest conversion style as you don't have to create a body to floor pan joining device.

An old MK1 from Triang/Hornby with the screw fittings from floor to coach roof underside, would be OK for a Stowage Van as the screws could still be used as they are unlikely to be seen. Bogie replacement would be relatively easy too with some fettling.

I think this method should work for you but I've never done a Postage vehicle conversion.

Phil

[lekkie lad]

I have a few MK1 brass overlays to use. Does one need to rub/file down the donor bodyside somewhat to compensate for the brass thickness? I don't what to remove the whole of the side, as this wouldn't give any support to the overlay.

 

Cheers

Ian S

[Mallard60022]

I have a few MK1 brass overlays to use. Does one need to rub/file down the donor bodyside somewhat to compensate for the brass thickness? I don't what to remove the whole of the side, as this wouldn't give any support to the overlay.

 

Cheers

Ian S

Yes......smooth as a baby's ######. However you can reinforce the overlay before you use it by soldering a strip of brass or even NS rail down the length of the brass side, except for 5mm at each end, if you remove all but the ends of the plastic sides. I've done both and left most of the plastic side in situ as well. They all work. Goopd luck.

Phil

[lekkie lad]

Cheers Phil. Much as I'd like to be able to mark up and cut out windows (for a Mk 1 Dia25 RK), I think the SP overlays will look better.

 

Ian S

[Mallard60022]

Cheers Phil. Much as I'd like to be able to mark up and cut out windows (for a Mk 1 Dia25 RK), I think the SP overlays will look better.

 

Ian S

That's what I was saying and I'm sorry if it was not clear! It was just the different ways of prepping the donor I was describing. I normally take out the whole side bar a strip at each end and sometimes 'reinforce' the brass side. SP sides are quite strong.

Phil

[paul 27]

I was going to use there plastic sides not the brass ones, has any one done one of these TPO conversions.

[tamperman36]

be careful with the glue when using the plastic sides as some glues will remove the pre printed sides, you may also find it better to give the sides of the donor vehicle a really good sanding down first removing all the body fittings such as door handles, hinges and window frames. you will also find the roof  layout will require changing aswell. The main thing, take your time and try find as much detailed pictures as you can to work from and enjoy your results.

[Mallard60022]

You can't leave the original plastic coach side if you are using the SP plastic ones as they are about 1mm thick and an overlay would look weird.

If using the SP plassi sides you might as well just build a SP kit but then as advised,take very great care with the glue, especially that used for the door handle and grab handle fittings.

Phil