'New Colletts from Old'

[Re6/6]

Here is the culprit baking the epoxy on the radiator.  Is that a good idea by the way?

SDC12071.JPG

 

If you use this stuff there's no need to bake anything Howard. http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802656387073

 

I've been using it for years after it was recommended in an article in MRJ a few years ago (by someone in the industry IIRC). it sets in about 5/10 minutes and l find that it 'cures' in around 2 or 3 hours and then can be worked on. It files well and l've even drilled and tapped it. It's readily available.

Edited January 25, 2017 by Re6/6

[HowardGWR]

Thanks Re6/6.  I shall certainly try this one*, as my present tubes are coming to an end.  Of course my 'bake' should have been in quotes, as it was just in the warm, as advised on the packet.  The Loctite glue will not, unfortunately, stop a ham-fisted person (guess who) spoiling his carefully preserved paintwork.  I am coming increasingly over to the principle of using jigs and holders, to avoid the need for handling.  To answer the earlier query on warping, no it didn't, as, apart from the elastic bands, inside the body, the Railroad seating unit was inserted, see photo, to keep it all square.   

 

Update:  I just remembered, a couple of prior spots of super glue spaced along, is also helpful when epoxying long pieces. 

 

*Update 2  See warnings in further postings.  I quote from Loctite page referenced.

 

"Not for soft plastic and Polypropylene."

 

I looked up the last on Wikipedia and it is used in forming plastic mouldings for some models.

 

Loctite has a bewildering variety of fixings and who knows whether the present Railroad range uses the same plastic that was used by the original models, which are what we here  are modifying, due to their low cost from swap meets, ebay, etc.  Come to that, I had no idea whether my present epoxy, now running empty, was suitable either!.  

Edited January 27, 2017 by HowardGWR

[The Fatadder]

I would suggest care, the details on the glue warn against use with certain plastics. So while it's no doubt brilliant for gluing brass sides to ally rooves, it may not be suitable for working with plastic coach parts

[Re6/6]

I would suggest care, the details on the glue warn against use with certain plastics. So while it's no doubt brilliant for gluing brass sides to ally rooves, it may not be suitable for working with plastic coach parts

Could be right Rich regarding plastics. I don't recall using it on plastics but it should be OK. Best to try it out on some scrap bits Howard.

 

It's my 'go to' epoxy glue!

 

John

[HowardGWR]

Thanks Re6/6.  I have amended post #327, so please see my appended comments there.    On the Loctite site that you referenced, I used the search facility with 'plastic parts fixings'; and was confronted with a bewildering list of various offerings.  I shall have to study these.  In my case, I was fixing  pre-Railroad era Hornby D95 plastic sides to the Comet Aluminium roof and Comet "white metal onto brass' ends.

 

Work that one out!       

Edited January 26, 2017 by HowardGWR

[St Enodoc]

Thanks Re6/6.  I have amended post #327, so please see my appended comments there.    On the Loctite site that you referenced, I used the search facility with 'plastic parts fixings'; and was confronted with a bewildering list of various offerings.  I shall have to study these.  In my case, I was fixing  pre-Railroad era Hornby D95 plastic sides to the Comet Aluminium roof and Comet "white metal onto brass' ends.

 

Work that one out!       

I reckon Pafra, Durofix or Seccotine should do the trick.

[Re6/6]

.......... Seccotine should do the trick.

 

Still available...!

https://www.cornelissen.com/roberson-gum-ammoniac-30-ml-14037.html

[St Enodoc]

Still available...!

https://www.cornelissen.com/roberson-gum-ammoniac-30-ml-14037.html

Amazing! I expect it still smells awful.

[Re6/6]

Amazing! I expect it still smells awful.

Fishy!

[Horsetan]

I reckon Pafra, Durofix or Seccotine should do the trick.

Ah, Pafra. Reputedly the world's only self-disassembling glue....

[lofty1966]

Next paint stop rooves

 

Underframes coated (except for the restaurant's, as still not resolved the gas tank problem) grrrrr

I hate airbrushing black with acrylic ....my airbrush always gives me grief.

It's either too thin or the nozzle clogs.

More grrrrr

Edited February 2, 2017 by lofty1966

[Horsetan]

^^
First photo reminds me of the erstwhile Vic Berry's scrapyard!

[HowardGWR]

^^

First photo reminds me of the erstwhile Vic Berry's scrapyard!

 

Actually, what struck me is how unused we are to seeing 70 footers on GWR layouts (what am I saying, anything other than auto trailers and b sets  :-)  which perhaps has to do with OO 2 foot radius curves?

 

I can't keep up with the mass production in Canada, but I admire it greatly (I almost wrote uuu*ly or b*gly).   

[HowardGWR]

Actually, what struck me is how unused we are to seeing 70 foot gangwayed stock on GWR layouts (what am I saying, anything other than auto trailers and b sets  :-)  ) which perhaps has to do with OO 2 foot radius curves?

 

I can't keep up with the mass production in Canada, but I admire it greatly (I almost wrote uuu*ly or b*gly).   

Edited February 4, 2017 by HowardGWR

[Coach bogie]

Actually, what struck me is how unused we are to seeing 70 footers on GWR layouts (what am I saying, anything other than auto trailers and b sets  :-)

  

 'We'?

 

There are many of use who DO see the use of 70 footers on layouts. Hungerford, Pendon, Leamington Spa, ToneVale (sadly now broken up), Kingstorre, Churston, Several Brent incarnations.

 

It was because of the use of 70ft stock on the various Mike Cook layouts, Newton Abbott, Kingswear etc, on various layouts that inspired me to learn the skills to make my own. Asking around, 70 foot stock has been seen and been an inspiration going back to the 1950's with the 70ft models of Mike Longridge, Ken Russell (Little Western) and later Jim Whitaker.

Mike Wiltshire

[The Fatadder]

Who's is the very nice version of Brent in the first photo Mike?

 

Photos of dreadnoughts over my morning coffee and always appreciated, thanks for sharing them!

[Coach bogie]

Who's is the very nice version of Brent in the first photo Mike?

 

Photos of dreadnoughts over my morning coffee and always appreciated, thanks for sharing them!

David Geen's

[Coach bogie]

If you do want to see 70 footers en masse and are able to go, Hungerford will be at the Keighley show n March 11/12th.

 

http://www.keighley-mrc.org.uk/page14.php

 

Mike Wiltshire

[lofty1966]

Rooves now black apart from E146 's which I think will be a dark grey ( gotta break up the uniformity somehow).

I probably should have painted one of the restaurant roof's a different colour too but laziness ensued.

E116's coming on as well (they are awful kits, more a scratch aid/hindrance)

Anyone got any good ideas on how to paint the window frames easily and crisply ?

Handbrushing is not my strongest suite and my OCD hates wavy lines !

[kandc_au]

Anyone got any good ideas on how to paint the window frames easily and crisply ?

Handbrushing is not my strongest suite and my OCD hates wavy lines !

 

Hi Lofty,

I was thinking about this for painting my autotrailer, BUT have not done it, and you are now in the same boat having already painted your models.

I thought the best option was to paint the window frames first with an airbrush.

Once dried, mask the frames with tape and do the cream.

Seems the most logical to me, but like I said I got carried away and have done the cream as well so now it will be a handpaint job.

 

Khris

[lofty1966]

Hi Lofty,

I was thinking about this for painting my autotrailer, BUT have not done it, and you are now in the same boat having already painted your models.

I thought the best option was to paint the window frames first with an airbrush.

Once dried, mask the frames with tape and do the cream.

Seems the most logical to me, but like I said I got carried away and have done the cream as well so now it will be a handpaint job.

 

Khris

That thought had crossed my mind too but the thought of trying to cut all those little masking tape pieces accurately was daunting.

I have considered making a couple of masks with window sized holes and spray a couple of window frames at a time but without sticking them down, overspray is an issue.Though if they were sprayed dead straight on it might be ok ?

I may have to experiment on some spare coach body parts.

[kandc_au]

I'll have to remember to try it next time.

Spray the mahogany

Use Tamiya masking tape

Cut it in situ

Spray the rest with  cream

Mask off the cream then spray the brown.

When it is time to remove the window sections you should be able to push out from the inside.

 

Khris

[K14]

That thought had crossed my mind too but the thought of trying to cut all those little masking tape pieces accurately was daunting.

I have considered making a couple of masks with window sized holes and spray a couple of window frames at a time but without sticking them down, overspray is an issue.Though if they were sprayed dead straight on it might be ok ?

I may have to experiment on some spare coach body parts.

 

Could you not mask the outside & then spray the reveals (lightly) from the inside?

 

Thinking of something like this stuff for the masks:—

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gummed-Paper-Tape-36mm-200mt/dp/B0027INOK6

 

(Also available from stationers. art shops etc.)

 

A long strip over all the windows is probably out as I suspect the hinges will lift the mask & allow spray to creep under, but if you were to cut individual pieces & stick them over each window that would eliminate the problem. Not sure how well it'd work where there's a droplight - maybe cut the tape out leaving a slight overlap?

Gummed tape makes for a great mask as the gum is water-based so won't pull the paint off no matter how long it's left on. Tastes horrible though, so best applied with a damp sponge.

 

Pete S.

[HowardGWR]

If you do want to see 70 footers en masse and are able to go, Hungerford will be at the Keighley show n March 11/12th.

 

http://www.keighley-mrc.org.uk/page14.php

 

Mike Wiltshire

Yes, I have seen it more than once.  Also I try to visit Pendon once a year at least, when I visit Didcot.  If anyone here does go, spend sometime round the back, as the stuff in the fiddle yard doesn't move (Hungerford is a 'tail chaser') and you can examine the stock.  The layouts that you mentioned, created by one person, are the most impressive (although daunting to contemplate making in my case).  What happened to Jim Russell and Mike Longridge's efforts; do you or anyone else know? 

 

A bit OT but how many people know, I wonder, how much of the Dartmoor layout at Pendon was originally built by R.G. Williams himself, as well as loads of stock and the engines?  I was privileged to be given a wander behind and underneath the Dartmoor scene and saw part of the original version of the viaduct, gathering dust, which Guy built, just using mainly paper and card materials.      

Edited February 6, 2017 by HowardGWR

[HowardGWR]

Rooves now black apart from E146 's which I think will be a dark grey ( gotta break up the uniformity somehow).

I probably should have painted one of the restaurant roof's a different colour too but laziness ensued.

E116's coming on as well (they are awful kits, more a scratch aid/hindrance)

Anyone got any good ideas on how to paint the window frames easily and crisply ?

Handbrushing is not my strongest suite and my OCD hates wavy lines !

Well, you certainly know how to use a spray gun Lofty!  Wow!  Any tips would be appreciated when you have time, What will be your period (I mean, which decals and lining will you apply)?  What's an OCD, by the way? 

Edited February 6, 2017 by HowardGWR