Hercules - A Great Western Story

[Bluemonkey presents....]

It certainly has been a marathon event but I expected that due to available time, apologies to all. Well, the rivets are on and the paint has dried. Here's the results of the paint and rivet removel and replacement rivet transfer detail. I think a much crisper and better finish than the ones I produced although it was very satisfying producing something myself. I have been building a couple of GWR Banana Vans from the Parkside range whilst waiting for stripper and paint to dry aswell as tsting out an airbrush set purchase a while ago. I need a lot of practice with that!!! Wont be using it on any models for a long time I think.

 

              

 

Stupidly, I made an impulse purchase whilst seeking some paints. I have a second GWR Chaired Sleeper Wagon to build and load. I have found that the sleeps I originally purchased and have pictured here are available on eBay by the same model shop but the P&P is a little cheaper for single item, excellent news BUT I can not find a supplier for the chairs. Does anyone know of any please? The last lot of chairs I purchased years ago. I am only looking for cosmetic they do not need to be the real deal.

 

Here's a couple more pictures of the loco build to date. Just need to paint a few details and varnish, then on with the name and number plates and the chains. As previously noted the required wheel set is currently unavailable so I am keeping my eyes open for the appropriate wheels to become available second hand.

 

              

 

I have learnt a number of valuable things from this build. Some regarding my personal modelling skills and some modelling tricks. Also and probably the one that keeps cropping up is how important research is when attempting a project like this. I have on numerous occasions referred back to the original pictures and spotted something new or that I have missed before. Next time (if) I will write a list of all the odd details and things I expect to have to find or create and do this a number of times over a few weeks before even thinking about making the first cut. Wheels also seem a major factor when building locomotives. I will have these down a an essential purchase prior to starting.

I hope by documenting some of the build and challenges this will help and encourage others when coming to their first kit bash or rework. I have a huge respect for those who design and manufacture kits and details (of any type of modelling) as the process it much more complex than the end product shows, I also have a much better appreciation of the time and energy these people have to put into each design. 

 

Edit: Oh and find some appropriate figures for the driver and fireman, can't be missing that obvious detail!

Edited June 5, 2017 by No46

[Bluemonkey presents....]

After completely losing motivation, this weekend sees a complete reversal! Visiting a finescale model railway show Saturday proved to be the re-ignition not only were the layouts excellent but I found a set for wheels suitable to use on Hercules. Now I just need to paint up the cab details and (I think) the buffers? As these should be in red. Really not sure so any advice will be greatfully received please.I know I said I would not but I have repainted the warning sign on the side of the crane. I used a black ink wash in the hope to highlight the detail but it completely wased out the white lettering so had to pick this out again. I have some loco crew figures from Monty's Model range, so will select a couple to occupy the footplate once painted.

 

See looking for some more GWR pattern sleeper chairs for another wagon load. I have used all my previous stash of dummy white metal chairs on another. 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

So far I have managed to paint the detail on the backhead. This is generally poorly educated guess work but I think looks OK and as the crew and crane will block this as  a view point I something I can live with. The white metal crew that were ordered from Monty's Models arrived during this time. Very little clean up required and the details are really nice. Using some old paint from my youth and newer ink washes the crew members have been completed but require varnishing then will be posed at the end stage. Not sure what if any details to pick out on the crane will continue to looking into this. Just the buffer beams to paint but this may take a number of coats due to the black base. The painting is slow going as I am not very keen on this element but plan to complete as 'workshop' then varnish to protect leaving weathering until much later after a lot of practice.

[Horsetan]

....As previously noted the required wheel set is currently unavailable so I am keeping my eyes open for the appropriate wheels to become available second hand.....

If you mean driving wheels for Hercules, the appropriate set may be 4'1.5" (16.5mm diameter) H-spoke, available from AGW, ref: 4849G.

Edited June 28, 2017 by Horsetan

[Bluemonkey presents....]

OK most of the basic livery painting has been completed (I think). The chimney top I have tried to give a copper but steamed effect as I am not sure to what extent the appearance would have been once in service. I need to experiement with my strapy varnish coatings as I have previous experienced 'whitening'  on other kits I have painted and I seem to remember a very watery and shiney almost gloss finish to some mat spray varnish I used on citadel minitures, back in the day!

Any thoughts suggestion, as always, most welcome.

 

Horsetan; Thank you for your direction I will look into those. I have recently purchased a set for this build but it is generic regarding the spoke number so I could use those for another pannier kit I have. Thank you appreciate your suggestion.

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

If you mean driving wheels for Hercules, the appropriate set may be 4'1.5" (16.5mm diameter) H-spoke, available from AGW, ref: 4849G.

 

Hello Horsetan, really appreciate your help. I have checked the wheel measurements against the kit I have used and unfortunately the wheels required for the chassis are 18mm. The Gibson ones will be slightly too small to use on the chassis. Certainly one to keep in mind for other projects though, thank you.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Everything this weekend, including the driver and fireman have received a coat of matt enamel varnish from Humbrol. Really pleased with the result as previously used varnish either went very gloss or left water marks. This end result is completely clear although a slightly satin finish seems to have been left on the loco but this is a just the ticket in my book. I will give it a few days to completely harden off and then put everything together. I have a few more details to add as well, such as the 'glass' for the windows, buffers, couplings and chains and name/number plates.Hopefully the next posting from me will be the completed locomotive. 

I have removed the copper effect from the chimney funnel and I am staying with complete black. I can not find anywhere any reference to the liveries. The reference pictures I am using are all black and white but the heavy colouring suggests black rather than green although Cyclops does appear to be lined green. The colour also appear to be consistent all over the loco, i.e. chimney funnel and safety valve. Something that I have learnt whilst doing this is the sick to what you have originally researched and not to keep changing (within sensible reason) as all locos had alterations during their life, so to focus on one specific area of the locos life and keep to it.

Edited July 14, 2017 by No46

[Bluemonkey presents....]

This is where my inexperience and general lack of knowledge is highlighted. Whilst blackening the buffers and preparing to attach them I realised I had forgotten/overlooked the fact that the buffer beam has the running number on it there are vacum pipes to locate! Muppet is not the word/s I used but lets stick with that for the time being.

Transfers (waterslide) added to the buffer beam. Not sure why they appear wobbly in the picture does not seem that way to the naked eye.. So a couple of vac pipes were sourced, as well as a pair of screw couplings. Roughly painted and attached. I attached the sprung buffers hlding the nut with a little superglue. These have been chemically blackened and have a dull finish that is not completely consistent all over giving a slight 'used' effect. I have come to accept and appreciate the 'happy accidents' during this build.

Whilst checking the model over (again!) for details that I have failed to pick before I could not get over the brackets attaching the vac pipes. These stood out to me and are missing from the castings so using a thinly cut piece of kitchen foil folded around the pipe and secured with a small amount of glue. Once painted these should look OK, I think I will leave out the rivets securing the brackets. Additional details of the steam pipe and braces how also be added to the underside of the rear buffer beam. The brackets are small pieces of off cut plasticard and the pipe, again, an offcut or handrail wire.

Once all the glue has set. Everything will get another coat of the appropriate colour with an ink wash and fixed with spray varnish.

 

From attempting this project I have discovered many new skills and approaches to completing a task which I have noted along the way but two things become more apparent during each modelling session. These are; my lack of knowledge regarding in general from specific part/area terminology to general appearance and livery. RMweb is an obvious place to look for related queries and detailed information as the members here are fantastic and have a wealth of world-wide knowledge and experience. The second is my personal lack of colour pictorial referencing from general running livery to how a cab interior actual looks. This I can rectify quickly so I have booked a day off work to visit Didcot. This will be a perfect start to document in colour many of the areas I have faced trying to 'guestimate' as either they are not in colour reference books or are just not pictured as would not appeal to the general viewer. Hopefully I will have enough room on my SD card, long gone are the days of colour film and having to take a small bag full of new films- thankfully.

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Cleaning up the name and numbers plates it occurred to me, this is where it all began. A lovely set of plates produced to order from Narrow Planet.

 

 

Screw coupling sourced are from Smiths range and are the 4 pair dummy set to be assembled. These are surprisingly easy to put together with a little care of the bending, I used the nib of a automatic pencil to give me the 180^o ​bend. Once completed I did have to reapply more blackening fluid as the brass had rubbed through. I have picture one as a completed example with individual items to make up a complete coupling. I am sure these are not new news on this forum but thought it may be of some use to others to see exactly what you get in the kit and how easy there to make. A good saving on those purchased as pre-assembled.

 

 

These attached to the locomotive, the name/number plates and the crew I had to, again, seal with a light coating of spray varnish. Another 'school boy error' don't varnish until totally satisfied you have completed, unless you end up with numerous coats. I masked the main loco boiler/body off to ensure only coating the areas required rather than a full body spray again.

 

 

 

The crane has both sections fully chained. I have chosen to add a very tiny drop of superglue to hold the chains on each pulley to stop it from slipping off but not enough to stop it from being a functional model if required. Both winders (I don't know the technical terms) are functional with a decent amount of chain. Waiting now for the enamel varnish to harden then connect all the pieces together, oh and of course I need to complete the chassis with driving wheels and coupling rods before attaching to the loco for completion.

[Castle]

Hi No. 46,

 

This is getting really close now - I can't wait to see the final result. Looks like it's going to be excellent! I know I am bound by my rules of only doing the Didcot preserved stock but I have always had a hankering after this machine - maybe I'll have a go one day.

 

All the best,

 

Castle

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you Castle, appreciate your comments. I fell into the trap of starting to add that little extra one and was not disciplined enough to say 'No'. I must commend you on your strength.

My plan was to create Chippenham station (Wiltshire) in the 1920's and run only the appropriate stock but temptation got me. So a new plan is to recreate the station in the 20's but to run anything Great Western that I like although I do number the kits I make to actual documented rolling and motive power stock, if at all possible.

 

Name and number plates attached with loco crew added, suddenly the locomotive seems to come alive!

 

 

Crane has been fully chained, that was a real fiddle but can be manually deployed if ever required;

 

 

Just need to put all the jigsaw pieces together and add the wheels, and motion set to the chassis.

Fingers crossed will be completed before my planned visit next week to Didcot. 

 

 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Even though the weather has been pretty bad modelling time has been some what lacking but I have managed to get a little in. 

As I have a different set of wheels that are all insulated I have had to completely re-arrange the chassis and the pick ups. However I have managed to change the position of the gear box. It now drives off the centre axle rather than the front. 

I spent most of my time getting the coupling rods to move smoothly as I have a sticky part at 3 o'clock. I have two pairs of rods one from the old original kit all flat no detail and the other set from the new chassis kit that are fluted. I ensured both run freely whilst thinking about which set to use. My reference pictures indicate that Hercules had completely flat coupling rods whilst the older pair Cyclops and Steropes had fluted but before I solder these I just wanted to make sure.

My personal preference is the fluted but prototype for this project must dictate as it has throughout, within reason.

 

Any views welcome. I am hoping to attack this tonight though, sorry for the short time scale. Thank you in advance.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Due to the usual 'everyday life' I was unable to do any modelling so hopefully some time later this week or at the weekend I will be able to finish. 

Please feel free to forward suggestions.

 

Edit: Looks like my planned trip is off as well as the weather report shows Didcot under water for most of the day Wednesday, oh well!

Edited July 25, 2017 by No46

[57xx]

As you've done such a great job of this already, I'd go with flat as per prototype.

 

But always remember Rule 1

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you 57xx, appreciate your thoughts.

I am leaning towards the flat coupling rods as well. I think further down the line I will regret not working to the prototype, especially something so easy, obvious and the fact I have them available.

 

P.S. I don't mean to look stupid but what is rule one please? I have an idea but, well, just making sure,  

 

Does anyone know or have an idea of where I can start looking for; the head codes for such a locomotive please? My reference pictures don't show the front when in service, and a small leaflet I have about head codes only mentions train running with crane stock.

As always thank you in advance, I appreciate any input.

[bgman]

Rule 1.

 

It's your Railway / Layout therefore you can do whatever you wish, run whatever you like and ignore anyone else basically !

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thanks bgman, thought as much but just checking.

 

I think I have the head lamp answer. Found a picture in Steam Picture Library.com, seemingly in service although posed with a single lamp on the left hand side (looking forward (Fireman's side?));

 

 

Edit: although I have also found a description of a single lamp positioned in the bottom centre and the one describing a 36T crane has a lamp on top of the smoke box and one left looking forward.

Edited July 27, 2017 by No46

[81C]

I believe coupling rods went from fluted to plain after some mishaps with the rods bending the plain ones were more flexible and less liable to bend out of shape.

 

This website might help you, if the crane is working/stopping in a section then single lamp on  the near side (firemans), if the loco is on the move from a place to place then an addition lamp in the middle on the buffer beam.

The same lamping applies when the loco is travelling in reverse.

Spare lamps are normally place on the near side just in front of the drive wheel cover/s

 

http://www.greatwestern.org.uk/basic16.htm

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Thank you 81C that conifrms it, I will use the flat coupling rods. Thank you for the link as well. I think for layout purposes I will depict the single lamp option as it would be working/moving to a job for my planned layout rather than moving from shed to shed.

[Bluemonkey presents....]

OK this is it. Finally I have Hercules completed, well I say that...........................

 

........................After all the testing and re-testing the chassis now soldered has a slight stick! Of course the rods are now soldered etc etc so some time in the future I am going to try and fix this. Any suggestions please?!

 

I have added a few details to the complete the over all finish and glazed the cab windows. Currently in a 'just out of the workshop' livery and over time as I develop my weathering skills I will add a very slight weathering to the locomotive. This is something that can come in time as it would on the prototype. Happy with the overall finish and appearance though.

 

I have put one of my reference pictures in the background to make a direct comparison. I have really enjoyed this little project along with the 'happy accidents' and new modelling skills developed. I have also very much enjoyed the comments from everyone along the way. Thank you to all for your patience in watching this build, it has been a little time in coming. Now all I need to do is build my planned layout for it to run on, (after the chassis tweak). Hope you enjoyed the journey. Here are the pictures;

 

 

Thank you to everyone for their comments and continued support. Everything is always appreciated.

[bgman]

An absolute credit to you, having followed the thread it's been an interesting build warts and all, very well done and good to see something different.

 

Grahame

Edited August 4, 2017 by bgman

[81C]

Stunning matey what's your next project. 

[Bluemonkey presents....]

81C and bgman, thank you appreciate your comments.

 

Well, the next thing will to tidy the workbench (so I'm told!) but more seriously I now have a large number of kit built wagons that I put together during this project as 'distractions'. They are all painted but a serious transfer and coupling session(s) will be required to complete them.

I have a layout in the planning stages (about 6 years now) in desperate need of building as well. I intend to try and capture Chippenham Station (Wiltshire) in the late 20's, early 30's, including the Calne branchline. I will be running a wide variety of stock* and motive power as I am not as disciplined as Castle is with his. Although, where I can, I will have locomotive and stock numbers accurate to those either used or passing through the station/branchline. 

 

I'll post the 'distractions' when I get them picture and as they get finished. 

 

Not sure about blogging the layout build as that could run decades if this project is anything to measure it by    but I may.

 

Edit: * I also have a thing 6 wheeled tankers. This will become obvious if the blog takes off!

 

Update: Here are the distractions I mention;

 

Edited August 7, 2017 by No46

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Well sat down to make a start on a transfer session and fell at the first hurdle! My starting point was the two steam banana wagons from the Parkside range and using HMRS transfers but the set does not include the 'Avonmouth' lettering of  "Return Empty to Avonmouth" which would be representative for my planned layout i.e. http://ukrailways1970tilltoday.me.uk/severn_valley_wagons.htm (third picture down).

I have trawled the internet this morning but currently I have no results. Even 'craftypapers' websire is a dead duck although I think it would be somewhat overkill going down the route of creating my own for now. Any ideas? (Other than leaving the destination out).

So I used my demotivated time wisely to finish of a little treat I purchased whilst ordering my wooden sleepers;

 

Edit: 

Edited August 10, 2017 by No46

[Bluemonkey presents....]

Morning,

Well it truly has been a struggle to get motivated to get those transfers on noted wagons! I have managed a couple. The mink G had a disaster as the 'G' and 'W' transfers started to break up on the wagon and I just could not salvage them at all. It could be that my transfers are old as I have experienced some cracking before but they are HMRS so should be alright. In the meantime I diverted my attention with some pre-printed open wagons that I found in one of my collected 'to do' boxes.

One each of Cambrian (Sully, Bridgwater), Mike's Models (Marlborough College, Wiltshire) and Slaters in association with Pendon (Woodley, Oxford). All plastic kits and had very little flash to remove. There are some significant size difference between the finished kits (shown my ignorance again) but this does allow for interesting changes throughout a rake. 

Each kit went together well. All three had differences regarding the initial construction of the solebar. I preferred the Slaters kit for this and found the Mike's Models kit required a certain amount of refining to allow the wheels to actually move in the bearings as the axle boxes seems too close and pinched, this is more apparent in the Slaters wagon. The Cambrian kit had the best fit of the planked sides with the Slaters a very close second but the Mike's Models kit had one side fixed with doubles-sided tape to a piece of paper as part of the packaging/advertising and this remained on  the wagon side due to age of kit most likely. Rather unfortunate as I was hoping to have these as empties. I expect there is a lot of weathering and dirtying that can be applied to hide once I set to it rather than a load. I would have tried 'sticky stuff remover' but had concerns that I may end up destroying the pre-printed side. 

I used a pin flow type device to make invisible liquid cement joins for the interior of the open wagons. With a short practice this worked really well and genuinely the joins made are near invisible unless you get real close. A little tricky to load and use but well worth the investment and practice time to create good strong cement joints especially for empty open wagons.

 

Edit for pictures; First shows the slow progress with transfers. Second of those wagons, as mentioned showing the 'sticky stuff' on the inside of the Marlborough College wagon.

 

 

Further edit; I should have put pictures of the inside of the wagons to help show what I was trying to explain i.e. the sticky stuff. The Slaters one has the best fit regarding planked sides to base the other two both have slightly wider bodies than the flooring. The pictures also demonstrate how effective the pin flow application has been as each wagon has been glued from the visible interior side. I started with the Marlborough College wagon which shows a little but I figured I would be grubbing or loading it up anyway.

 

 

Edited September 1, 2017 by No46