Removing brass etchings from the frets

[Gordonotron]

Hi Everyone,

This may seem like a really simple question, but sometimes the simple bits are the ones that annoy us the most.

Anyway, I'm working on a few Mk3 coaches at the moment and soon starting on a few more brass kits. however I'm wondering what people use to remove parts from the frets, especially in some oo parts where space on the frets is a premium.

Currently I'm using a craft knife but on a few cases its not ideal and risks warping the brass.

 

So what do you guys use?

 

Gordon

[phil_sutters]

Hi Everyone,

This may seem like a really simple question, but sometimes the simple bits are the ones that annoy us the most.

Anyway, I'm working on a few Mk3 coaches at the moment and soon starting on a few more brass kits. however I'm wondering what people use to remove parts from the frets, especially in some oo parts where space on the frets is a premium.

Currently I'm using a craft knife but on a few cases its not ideal and risks warping the brass.

 

So what do you guys use?

 

Gordon

I have not used etchings a great deal, but as well as a sharp medium to heavy-duty craft knife, pressing down onto a hard surface, I have used nail clippers. It is not always easy to position end-cutting ones like mine, but the side cutting ones should be easier.

[Arthur]

 

Fine and sharp scissors or, if you can justify the cost, Xuron etch shears like these,

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=322320194706&globalID=EBAY-GB

[DougN]

I can recommend the Xuron etched shears. They make such short work of tabs and can with practice take the cusp of an edge if it is an issue. I have been using these exclusively since buying them. Many moons ago i used a half inch wood working chisel. This could be sharpened over and over again. This needed to be used on a "hard" surface of a piece of timber but can deform the brass if on an old cut or if it is getting blunt. 

 

Personally now the $40AUD I paid for the shears is worth every cent. I am not sure what they would be worth in the UK. The pair I have are the blue handled version known as Professional photo etched shears! 

[johnhutnick]

I use the smaller aluminum handle Xacto knife with the square end chisel type blade.  I place the etching on a large aluminum plate.  I hold the knife vertical with the blade held firmly on an etching tab, and strike the end of the Xacto handle with a small hammer.  It chops through the tab and the aluminum plate backing minimizes any deformation.  With practice not much cleanup is needed, and the process is quick when there are a lot of tabs to cut.  I keep sharpening the blade on a stone.  I also have Xuron shears, but find this Xacto method easier.  I have used this procedure successfully on various O scale loco kits.

[Kylestrome]

This is how I do it with a No. 15 scalpel blade on a white covered piece of chipbpoard.

 

[Branwell]

Tamiya do a very thin saw which I've found helpful where you've got narrow slots to cut in.

[Siberian Snooper]

I use a piercing saw to cut the bits out.

[chaz]

I use a piercing saw to cut the bits out.

 

Me too, but I do place a thin offcut of ply' or hardboard or even thick cardboard under the brass. Cutting this at the same time as the brass takes a little more effort but makes the moment when the blade breaks through more controllable. You won't break as many blades and you won't mark the adjacent part. Cutting very thin tabs can be a challenge for even an 80tpi blade but with the thin sheet material underneath the teeth are much less likely to snag.

 

Chaz

[PenrithBeacon]

I use the Xuron, very good it is too; highly recommended.

 

Regards