Paints

[spikey]

I'm getting close to making a start on the first structure for my layout, and I'd like to avoid a situation I got myself into last time round with model railways i.e spending far too much on far too many pots of paint.  This time I simply haven't the budget, so I need to standardise!

 

We're talking brush painting and only on structures, most of which will be Ratio/Wills kits or plastic scratchbuilt.  Having given up aeromodelling, I have a couple of dozen pots of Tamiya acrylics, which I like using, and a few tinlets of Humbrol  enamels, the quality of which I found to be so variable that each one was a lottery.

 

Given that I'm not airbrushing and I'm in no particular need of authentic colours, am I right in thinking that I can stick with Tamiya acrylics and mix any colour I need that they don't do?  Or if Humbrol are now reckoned to have an efficient quality control system, would I actually be better off going down that road?

[Bernard Lamb]

I would stick with the acrylics, especially as you are painting buildings.

They mix well to give intermediate shade and you can save money by using colours such as black and white from The Works, which are available in large tubes very cheaply.

I find that Humbrol enamels do dry up and/or go off.

Some material might need degreasing and some paints do tend to separate when using water as a thinner.

I test first and use water if it works otherwise the correct thinners do an excellent job.

Bernard

[Roger Sunderland]

Years ago there was only Humbrol, but now there are many ranges of high quality acrylic paints, Tamiya, Lifecolor, Vallejo, to name but 3.

 

In my opinion, Humbrol paints are nothing like they used to be and their acrylics are practically unusable. Stick to acrylics.

[The White Rabbit]

Over the years, I've moved from Humbrol enamels to acrylics, often Revell. The only Humbrol enamel I use these days is their primer, and there are decent alternatives when my stock of Humbrol runs out. If you like Tamiya, stick with them. 

[Andy Hayter]

I've happily used Tamiya acrylics brush applied for structural models. No need to spend on anything extra.

[spikey]

In my opinion, Humbrol paints are nothing like they used to be ...

 

So it isn't just me then ...

 

Thank you, gentlemen.  Acrylics it is.

 

Does anybody do decent acrylics in railway company colours?  There'll only be three or four railway buildings, but it would be nice if I can at least get the woodwork of those in more-or-less right the right colours

[grahame]

I don't particularly like the Tamiya acrylics, finding them thick, stodgy and chemically (that tend to separate in the pot), not easy to thin and drying with brush marks. The best IMO are from Vallejo, although I've had two pots of Railmatch acrylics (concrete and light brick colours) which have lasted for many years without drying or deteriorating (and still use them, often heavily thinned with water and mixed with other makes colours).

 

G.

[crompton 33]

If you want true railway colour's then have a look at the railmatch range. Link http://www.shawplan.com/railmtch.htm

[grahame]

 

Does anybody do decent acrylics in railway company colours? 

Railmatch.

 

G.

[spikey]

I'd never heard of Railmatch, so thanks for that.  But alas, it says on their site that they no longer do mail order ...

[tractor_37260]

I'd never heard of Railmatch, so thanks for that.  But alas, it says on their site that they no longer do mail order ...

 

 

I think you'll find that refers only to Enamel/solvent based paint due to Royal Mail restrictions, Acrylics AFAIK can be sent by post, give Howes Models a call to confirm.

 

https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/

[spikey]

Cheers, tractor.  Will do. 

 

It does seem a weird thing for a business to say on their site.  I wonder how many people have read that and gone right off the idea of buying Railmatch paints ...

[Ian H C]

I've gradually changed from enamels to acrylics over the last couple of years. Check out the military modelling sites and e-shops (emodels.co.uk is a good place to start) for a massive range of colours, primers and effects. Vallejo, Life Color, AK, and they all have significant online resources showing 'how to'. Tamiya acrylics are a little different and in my opinion not so easy to use. Don't get too hung upon exact shades, in reality there was rarely such a thing except on ex-works locos and coaching stock. Easier to handle and clean up, dries much faster, no agressive solvents. 

 

I'd also add that some suppliers of rail specific paints have some interesting ideas about what constitutes an 'exact shade'. Some very odd paint colours out there!

[Guest royal signals]

Hi today this was posted

Posted Today, 16:16

If you want true railway colour's then have a look at the railmatch range. Link http://www.shawplan.com/railmtch.htm

 

I have noticed now that railmatch & Precision paints both list LNER apple green as both Doncaster green & Darlington green. Anybody got any idea of the shade the other LNER works used? Stratford, Gorton and the Scottish works.

 

Tony

[spikey]

It now seems that Howes do indeed supply Railmatch acrylics by mail order, so presumably other retailers won't have a problem with them either.

[Campaman]

I do have a small collection of ready mixed colours, Humbrol, Revel, and Tamiya but for most of my painting I mix my own colours using artists acylics, I usually buy a mid price set such as W.H. Smiths own brand and buy bigger tubes of the base colours, it takes a bit of practice to mix and thin reliably but still works out far cheaper than loads of the little branded tins/bottles and even the cheapo poundland ones are OK for scenery.

[The Johnster]

I use Tamiya for buildings and scenery, and on my current project I have yet to paint anything except track colour, weathering mix, and plain black, so still with the Tamiya.  I bought a tin of what looked on the bottle to be WR cream Humbrol acrylic, and it came out yellow, so not using them any more.  

 

Tamiya rubber black, supposedly for military vehicles' tyres, is very useful; flat with a very subtle sheen, just right for smokeboxes.

[Il Grifone]

 

Hi today this was posted

Posted Today, 16:16

If you want true railway colour's then have a look at the railmatch range. Link http://www.shawplan.com/railmtch.htm

 

I have noticed now that railmatch & Precision paints both list LNER apple green as both Doncaster green & Darlington green. Anybody got any idea of the shade the other LNER works used? Stratford, Gorton and the Scottish works.

 

Tony

 

 

I have read* that the difference between Darlington and Doncaster green is a myth (like that between pre and post 1928 GWR green and the various shades of MR/LMS/BR crimson/maroon). Not being around at the time. I couldn't comment of the veracity or otherwise of this statement. It is true that the perceived shade depends on undercoat and top varnish and also that paint formulae changed with time. The effects of weathering etc. also cause the shade to change.

 

As to the paint question, Vallejo is excellent and Humbrol is indeed variable (avoid any marked "Made in China"), but it appears to have improved of late.

 

I find cheap acrylics tend to be 'grainier' than those intended for model use. Probably OK for scenery especially where a smooth finish is not required (e.g. buildings).

 

* As usual, I can't remember where!

[Karhedron]

Does anybody do decent acrylics in railway company colours?  There'll only be three or four railway buildings, but it would be nice if I can at least get the woodwork of those in more-or-less right the right colours

 

Games Workshop's range of acrylics contains many shades that are decent matches for Railways colours, particularly if you are looking to paint the buildings yourself. Here it simply matters that "collars and cuffs" match. You just have to get over the slightly outlandish names.

 

What region are you modelling?

 

Here is a ratio signal box painted in WR chocolate and cream. The actual paints used were Ushabti Bone for the cream, Rhinox Hide for the chocolate, Ceramite White and Abbaddon Black. The flash makes it look a bit brighter than it does normally.