michaelp Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hi Dave, will S&W fit any make of rolling stock? I am running Parkside Dundas hopper wagons and Hornby and Bachmann brake vans. Thanks Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdw7300 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Appreciate this is slightly off topic but I have gone down the Brian Kirkby method, but using 3mm dia. 10mm long Neodymium magnets. The advantage being they can be fitted between the sleepers, even after ballasting with minimum remedial works. Just don't forget to mark where the magnets are! A few photos can be found here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley47708 Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I used these http://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-magnets-c34/15mm-dia-x-0-5mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnet-0-28kg-pull-p2582#ps_1-872 15mm dia. and only 0,5mm thick, so very easy to conceal in the ballast. For this size they were the weakest magnet available from this supplier, but with enough magnetism to do the job. Ordered 20 of these magnets on Monday, arrived on Tuesday! They came in a surprisingly large package. Not sure if that is partly to protect other things from their magnetic pull or not. Anyway have tried them with staples and so far so good, I took them to the club last night and we got a good response. Attaching them is a bit of a fiddle but with a bit of practice I am sure it will be fine. I have not ballasted the track yet so is an ideal time to fit them. Delighted with them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sn Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 If it is of any help, I found that the actual attachment of the staple wire to the coupling was an awkward process but I set about making a very quick and simple jig from which to work. I took some pics on my phone (sorry about the quality) It's made up from plasticard As you'll see from them the coupling 'hook' recesses into a recess the holding jig and you then simply slide the staple covered with a touch of superglue across the plasticard jig and onto the coupling. It's made the process much simpler . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted May 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) I have made a new, improved shunting pole from a penlight with a piece of wire attached and painted white so I can see easily if it above or below the hooks, but it tends to get jammed under the bars. Mk 3 will have an inverted v shape over the wire to guide it between the bars from underneath so that you can lift the hooks. I will then need to think about mk 4, to overcome the issue of the end of the pole getting caught between the raised hooks, which sometimes needs a little bit of jiggerypokery to overcome. I gave up the spade idea because, with a variety of different manufacurers' couplings to deal with, I found that the distance between the droppers is not consistent, and the spade would not fit between some couplers while being able to lift both droppers simiultaneously; wider versions fouled on chassis'. Also, you need to be able to access the couplers from the side, not possible when for example uncoupling a loco prior to run around with a platform on one side and possibly stock on the next road blocking your access from the other side. It would be nice if there was an agreed standard for t/l couplers that ensured that the above rail level, distance from headstock, hook shape and overhang, and size, shape, and position of droppers were consistent, but there isn't, so any shunting pole or other device will inevitably be a 'one size fits all' compromise. Luckily for me I am operating a small blt, not Tinsley Yard... Edited May 23, 2017 by The Johnster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted May 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2017 (edited) I have made a new, improved shunting pole from a penlight with a piece of wire attached and painted white so I can see easily if it above or below the hooks, but it tends to get jammed under the bars. Mk 3 will have an inverted v shape over the wire to guide it between the bars from underneath so that you can lift the hooks. I will then need to think about mk 4, to overcome the issue of the end of the pole getting caught between the raised hooks, which sometimes needs a little bit of jiggerypokery to overcome. I gave up the spade idea because, with a variety of different manufacurers' couplings to deal with, I found that the distance between the droppers is not consistent, and the spade would not fit between some couplers while being able to lift both droppers simiultaneously. Also, you need to be able to access the couplers from the side, not possible when for example uncoupling a loco prior to run around with a platform on one side and possibly stock on the next road blocking your access from the other side. It would be nice if there was an agreed standard for t/l couplers that ensured that the above rail level, distance from headstock, hook shape and overhang, and size, shape, and position of droppers were consistent, but there isn't, so any shunting pole or other device will inevitably be a 'one size fits all' compromise. Luckily for me I am operating a small blt, not Tinsley Yard... Edited May 23, 2017 by The Johnster Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted May 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 23, 2017 I seem to be repeating myself repeating myself... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted June 25, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted June 25, 2017 Having started this thread a short while ago, I have now trialed the Heathcote Uncoupler and I have to say that I am very happy with it (no connection etc etc). As a consequence I have ordered a further batch as I will need quite a number around the layout. At the same time I have made significant progress on replacing older style tension-lock and some other coupling types as I have found that mixing these within a train has been a major cause of derailments as well as unintended & unwanted uncouplings. Thanks to all for their various contributions which helped me to learn a lot! Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 (edited) I am using Bachmann HO Gauge mini-tension-locks with a steel pin soldered to the dropper arm to magnetically uncouple my O Gauge wagons - and very successful it is to. However, I need to order more Bachmann couplers and I need the one with BRASS (ie non-ferrous) dropper arms. Some of theirs (like almost every other make) use steel dropper arms, which are absolutely no good at all for this use. My question is - can anyone tell me the Bachmann reference numbers for the mini tension locks with brass dropper arms (either the 'short' version or preferably the 'long version'?) The NEM pocket types are perfectly OK, as that is what I have used to date. Don't need the actual pockets though. I just don't want to order several packs at nearly a tenner per pack only to find I have bought useless 'steel' ones - and as none of my local model shops stocks them I cannot just pop down there with a magnet in hand to check them. Can anyone please give the Bachmann product numbers for the versions with the brass dropper arms? I know that they do them....but which are they? Thanks, in anticipation someone might be able to help. Edited October 24, 2017 by orford Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philsandy Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 I am using Bachmann HO Gauge mini-tension-locks with a steel pin soldered to the dropper arm to magnetically uncouple my O Gauge wagons - and very successful it is to. However, I need to order more Bachmann couplers and I need the one with BRASS (ie non-ferrous) dropper arms. Some of theirs (like almost every other make) use steel dropper arms, which are absolutely no good at all for this use. My question is - can anyone tell me the Bachmann reference numbers for the mini tension locks with brass dropper arms (either the 'short' version or preferably the 'long version'?) The NEM pocket types are perfectly OK, as that is what I have used to date. Don't need the actual pockets though. I just don't want to order several packs at nearly a tenner per pack only to find I have bought useless 'steel' ones - and as none of my local model shops stocks them I cannot just pop down there with a magnet in hand to check them. Can anyone please give the Bachmann product numbers for the versions with the brass dropper arms? I know that they do them....but which are they? Thanks, in anticipation someone might be able to help. I use the same uncoupling system (Brian Kirby), I always buy Bachmann couplings product code 36-030. They are the long straight version, and are non ferrous. I'm sure I read on here that all Bachmann tension lock hooks were non ferrous, and that Hornby's were not? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Tony Teague Posted October 26, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted October 26, 2017 Just to give an update on the original topic of this thread, I can confirm that I now have 11 of the Heathcote Uncouplers installed and operational. All went in easily and working fine which is reassuring given the effort that I have put in to standardising my couplings. Happy to recommend - no connection etc. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
orford Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 Thank you Phil Sandy. Just what I needed to know. - Don M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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