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Waukegan Harbor and Marine


Robatron86
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The plan originally was to replace all the plastic code 83 on the Walthers stuff with Peco code 83 and run the loco on to the float, but I then found that wasn't hugely prototypical.

 

The float apron and float contains a switch as part of the kit, but you need a further #4 wye to complete the track coming off the apron to the rest of the world. I have all the necessary bits, but when I laid it out and ran it, I found out I ran out of room at the fiddle end.

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The 'problem' as I see it with a car float is the lack of realistic operating potential. In reality stock gets shoved on, and pulled off - that's it. It isn't a place for 'blocking' cars as in a normal yard; neither does it really have or need seperate 'car spots'. It's only real use is as an interesting scenic addition-come-fiddleyard. For operations, it's rather dull. Just IMHO. ;)

One other suggestion would be a carfloat with an Inglenook yard back to back - this would overcome the "dullness" refered to above and allow sorting /resorting of cars but would also need a runround, or some method of having/using two locos to pass the cars and not trap the engine. This could also be achieved with a pair of inglenooks following sequentially, so that the loco pulls them off the barge and then pushes them back into the sidings. This would also have the disadvantage of the space needed to accommodate it, of course Operations are also enhanced if the "Yard" is assumed to be one destination on a multi-dock journey, and that the car loading has more than one destination, and may well need moving/re-sorting for further onward destinations

Edited by shortliner
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Oops...I had best update this...

 

So I have been really enjoying working on this fornthe last month as I have not built a layout in two sections before so I am learning a lot.

 

The track was all pinned in place, all the track was soldered together and the track was cut over the baseboard join, with the ends soldered to panel pins. Not the best soldering I have ever done but they are secure and will be hidden in the ballast.

 

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The track was cut with a Dremel slitting disc.

 

Holding the boards together are two hefty bolts and wing nuts.

 

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I have begun wiring the left hand board first as this has the most wiring on it, including isolation switches. Usual bus running underneath made up of copper tape and component wire, colour coded to make it easier if any problems arise later on.

 

I have decided to use banana plugs between the two boards.

 

Uncoupling magnets are in place. I had been experimenting with neodymium magnets, but I wasn't satisfied with the results so I have gone back to Kadee 321 delayed magnets. The neodymium magnets will be put to use holding buildings in place so they can be removed for transport.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am also experimenting with adding some removable boards along the front, namely so I can utilise the float and apron, albeit as static displays. With this in mind, I have a name: Waukegan Harbor and Marine. What do you think?

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I am also experimenting with adding some removable boards along the front, namely so I can utilise the float and apron, albeit as static displays. With this in mind, I have a name: Waukegan Harbor and Marine. What do you think?

Would the car float be ATSF themed? If so, Waukegan would be a bit jarring to a local. There were actual car floats on the Chicago River in the past - if that appeals I can come up with some likely street names for you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Jack. What frustrates me more is that the wiring under Tilley Yard South is all slap dash and rough, yet runs perfectly. Try and do it properly and it doesn't work!

 

Not a stupid question at all Jordan. It isn't DCC, but even on DC I have found running a full bus underneath improves running no end. Every separate stretch of track gets a set of droppers, hence the switches.

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Not a stupid question at all Jordan. It isn't DCC, but even on DC I have found running a full bus underneath improves running no end. Every separate stretch of track gets a set of droppers, hence the switches.

Ah, right. I just assumed it was DCC with that wiring, but agree that it is also 'good practice' for DC too. When it works, that is!! :blush:

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