ECC Wheal Imogen / Rosevean Station: the expansion

[The Fatadder]

To go with the Turbot I have worked on previously the intention is to have a pair of Zander (for which I have some Airfix chassis ready to go) and a pair of Barbell the first of which was built today from the Parkside kit.

 

only change I’ve made is replacing the brake linkages with brass wire.  One day the buffers will be replaced, just not quite yet….  I will probably hold fire on paint until the Zander are built and I have the required transfers

 

ive also started looking at another project loco….. 

With the next new gen Bachmann 37 now on order, I’ve turned attention to selling off the spares.  (Hence bodies for 37047/667/672 along with the first spare complete loco 607 are all currently on eBay).  I have however got one chassis spare, however the bufferbeam had broken off making it unsuitable for use as a rebody.

 

This got me thinking what about doing a bigger project, I have a spare body in bits ex 3752 and a set of new gen centre box noses.   My thinking is to do a windscreen conversion (something I want to do anyway before cutting up 403/057 for similar work), and while I’m at it convert the roof to 37902

with Shawplan’s etches.  This loco is more suited to Laira than Wheal Imogen (it worked the fuel train at least once in 1998), but would certainly be a bit different (plus adds a sector 37 to the fleet).    Will hold fire on ordering parts until after Christmas, but feels too good to resist…

[The Fatadder]

While applying the transfers to the mk1 rmb, I also finished off the transfers for the Wales and West 150/153 hybrid.   For now it doesn’t have the right unit number (using up a spare set from the Railtec pack) along with their Wales and West logos 

 

I have a bunch of stuff on eBay at the moment, part of the plan being to free up funds to buy a cheap Bachmann 150/1 to provide a correct chassis for 950001.  In turn freeing up a chassis for the 150 (mostly needed for its lights).   So this set can be put away now pending that purchase. 
 

 

now I really need to get on with the fence…

[The Fatadder]

One of the few main tasks remaining on the layout is adding wire to the fences.  A job I’ve debated on and off as to whether I will/won’t do.   My issue being I could never find a suitable scale wire, so it’s the trade off between overscale vs not there.   In the end I decided it must be done

 

so using 0.15mm copper wire I’ve glued the wires on.  Coloured with a black sharpy (thinner layer than paint) 

 

it’s not as tidy as I’d have hoped, I struggled getting the glue to cure quickly enough.   I’m going to give it another going over with foliage to blend in the bits I’m less happy with.

 

 

I may have to give in and paint the wires, the pen looks ok to the eye but get a camera on it and you see more defects.  The 2 inches to the left is pretty much obscured by the arch so will have a play there.  First I need to add the fence on the works side.  My logic is that as this does not need to stop livestock a shorter 3 wire fence  will be adequate.  Though it will be harder to make, for the first fence I was tensioning the wire by lining up 4 or 5 posts then  looping around the outside of the 6th and clamping to the baseboard edge.  This time that won’t be possible (as there will be another fence in the way).   I also can’t use the soldered strip glued to the backscene as it doesn’t start there. 
 

 

Looking at the photos I need to add something along the front edge to tidy up the joint between board and grass.  Particularly in the areas where the facia would normally hide it

 

Edited December 21, 2023 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

 

I’ve added a wash of light grey over the wires, I think it’s an improvement.   There are still a few bits I’m in happy with where the wire spacing is not consistent.  Hopefully adding some bushes etc in these area will distract from it. 
 

Time to start work on the other (longer) fence I guess. 

[The Fatadder]

Last night I kept going with the fencing and added the fence to the other side of the branch, along with making a start on redoing the bushes etc. 

My approach to the fence was to pull the wires tight and then fix to a weight, other weights were used to pin the lines in position where necessary.   It was a lot easier on the front fence where I could clamp it on the baseboard edge.   Starting at the back and working forward would have been more sensible (and allowed me to use the same method for the rear fence),

but I wanted to start with the front as it gave me the hidden section to test on first   

 

I think the next area needing attention is the gap between the fence and the slurry loader.  There are some marks on the rear of the loader from scenic materials (I think from the mk1 Wheal Imogen).  The obvious way to resolve will be adding bushes between it and the fence to obscure the damage

 

37674 shunts a TCA for loading

 

37521 passes with a through clay train

 

another view of 37674

[The Fatadder]

Over a late lunch I’ve added a few more scenic tweaks. 

first up a bush between the branch line and the slurry loader, along similar lines to how it was on the original Wheal Imogen

 

What the scenic materials were out I’ve also added more bushes along the fence between the works and the branch, there were a few places where I had to rip up the original finish to clear the fence wires, so this was intended to blend it all back together.

 

I wanted to add a little more detail along the front fence, so I’ve added more weeds etc growing along the edge.   Before its next show I think I will add a couple of ModelU sheep to finish it off.  
 I’m currently struggling with the lighting in this area, purely because with no facia panel I can’t mount the lights in the right place.   I’m thinking about making a secondary backscene for the right hand end (the proper one being part of  the fiddleyard).
while the desire to have this is primarily for photos, it would also mean I could refit the arch.

[The Fatadder]

And a couple more photos.  

still can’t get the lighting right on this angle….

 

 

Just a couple of jobs still planned, the first will be adding wires (power or phone?) between the buildings based on prototype photos.   I’m a little concerned about getting a quick bond though. 
 

It could do with a few more loaded pallets of clay by the covered loading area, maybe a forklift truck as well

 

Finally it needs some figures adding 

[The Fatadder]

A couple more details have been worked on this evening, first adding the cable between the buildings.  I used the same wire that was used for the fence, gluing to one building and once dry pulling tight to the next.

 

this was followed by making some security lights out of evergreen strip, which have now been painted ready for fitting tomorrow.

 

finally another batch of Dinghams has been assembled.  I’m currently working my way through a sheet that was under etched (so a lot more work) although another good etch arrived via eBay this week so I may swap….  
 

So far these have been fitted to the outer pair of wagons for the new CDA set (correcting the orientation of couplings on 353224 while I was at it).

you can just about see the faint line of the new cable between the two buildings in the background

 

One of the OCA was also fitted with its new couplings, as was the Revolution / Kernow Cargowaggon pair.  Of the remaining 3 sets, one is earmarked for the new 37, while the other two pairs will likely end up in engineers wagons. 

[The Fatadder]

I am erring toward either a replacement for 37670 or a model of 37668 for my new 37.  Both of which should have the flush centre headcode box that as far as I know Bachmann have never done. 
 

for 37671 this was modelled with a lot of plasticard and filler.   If not replaced the current 670 would need modification to match, but I’m less keen on the amount of work to achieve it.

 

the answer in my head is to totally remove the headcode box, and replace with a 3 d print,  this is the firs draft.  I suspect it will need a couple of iterations before I’m happy to butcher the new noses.

 

this is the current state of the drawing, all being well I will set a copy to print in the morning.  I think I have a scrap flush 37 end on which I can test fit the new part.  

 

with a full set of reinforced windscreens 670 is not the most pressing loco for replacement, so the new one will probably end up as 668 (in turn replacing 667 the body for which ends on eBay tomorrow). 
 

 

edit:  seem to have just bought yet another 2022 class 37 body, so 37510

will now be getting an upgrade to the current spec.   I’m hoping I will get a chance to respray the lower exec light grey to white, and remove the names/numbers.   This will the go on an old 37 chassis and 510s body will end up on eBay in the new year.

 

this will mean I’ve done 37510 on the original, retooled and latest Bachmann models.  Must see if a photo remains of my original model…

 

So this just leaves 403/710/057/230 left with the old windows.  Of which I am erring toward window upgrades for the Loadhaul loco swing as Bachmann haven’t done a heavy weight body and probably the same for 403 on which I would rather not have to hand paint those faded logos again.  057 

Edited December 24, 2023 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

Received 37401 from the latest Bachmann model as a Christmas present this morning,  my first with the full model rather than just the body.  
 

First thoughts are that my hybrid models stand up very well In comparison, so I will be continuing down that route.  
 

I think there is room for improvement, going to look at my fuel tank print and separate into multiple components for individual tanks / supports and a separate part for the fuel filler.   The aim being to make it easier to print for those locos (eg 521) which still need upgrading.  
I also need to get on with attempting to add brake chains to all of the hybrid fleet as that’s the most visible issue now. 
 

As mentioned previously this will end up as either 668 or 670, while my second 401 body will become 510.  But this will probably become 510 in the interim given it’s likely to be finished first.  
 

not actually heard the model yet, so that’s still to come.  Will be interesting to hear how the factory speaker compares to the double fuel tank mounted sugar cubes in my current 510

[The Fatadder]

Having a lot of issues with 37401 meaning it will need to go back to Bachmann for repairs (squeaking motor and no working end lights), so I can’t crack on with the work converting it to 37668 (the printed parts will be set to print  tomorrow.)

 

Instead I’ve been working on converting the other 401 body to 510.   The roof is complete and painted and the lower white has been resprayed.  The plan is to leave the grey as exec dark grey rather than respraying to Falcon grey, the prototype had faded so much by 1999 I think it’s a much closer match.   I need to get the transfers ordered from @railtec-models who did a great job on the transfers for my original 510

[The Fatadder]

A little more on 510, the Railtec transfers are out of stock, fortunately there are spares for one side on the last pack I bought so these have been added.  Learning from last time that the swallows do not have the usual no carrier film and need cutting around before fitting.   I’m enjoying this one, but other than refitting the handrails there’s not a lot more to do now until I have the new transfers for the other intercity logo / 510 numbers 

 

At which point I will remove the noses from the current 510 and transfer them over (a spare set of ends will need spraying to refit to old 510 which will then be sold without lights.). Seeing as 510 Is one of my intermediate upgraded end 37 with the overlay windscreen I’m curious as to how the two compare.   
 

 

[The Fatadder]

Fresh off the wash & cure, my first 3d prints of 2024. 

 

 

Including my existing prints for the nose clips and grills for 37668, roof vent for mk1 rmb, replacement hunt style couplings to make use of the magnets on the two I’ve broken, a test of a Rudd buffer which I am not happy with as the head is too thick, and most importantly the test prints of my class 37 headcode box

 

Bachmann have not (as far as I know) made the the one piece headcode box design. 37671 was converted with filler / plastic to model which was a real pain, so this print replaces the whole headcode box.  I’ve printed two versions with different angles on the sides, so will see which looks best on a scrap nose before I convert a set of 2022 37 ends for 668.  I also have two spare sets of the new ends from 510 and 521, one of which is earmarked for 902 (with standard boxes) the other will get rebuilt with the prints and used as an upgrade on 670.

[The Fatadder]

First test of the 37 headcode box

 

excuse the crude brush primer intended to help show up defects (after another coat). Unsurprisingly a little more filler is needed in the holes for the eth socket.  (Only another 5 ends need it removing from…)

 

much easier than adapting the existing one, plus it should reuse the same lights parts.  
I am aiming to have the rest all modified by the end of the week so they can all get sprayed yellow once the weather dries up 

[Daddyman]

Some good modelling there, Rich!  

[The Fatadder]

Forgot to add a couple of photos

the headcode box was removed first of all, I used my good Xurons to cut away the bulk of it before finishing off with various grades of file.  (The mounting for the ETH socket was removed at the same time)

 

the 3d printed box was then glued in position.  Before filling the holes for the eth box, I don’t have a suitable diameter rod so I’ve just used filler, if it doesn’t work I will drill out and fit a size that I do have.

[Daddyman]

14 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Before filling the holes for the eth box, I don’t have a suitable diameter rod so I’ve just used filler, if it doesn’t work I will drill out and fit a size that I do have.

Square rod slightly large doused in solvent then forced into the hole is a good bet. 

[The Fatadder]

On 03/01/2024 at 11:20, Daddyman said:

Square rod slightly large doused in solvent then forced into the hole is a good bet. 

Worked really well thanks, definitely useful with two more sets still needing the ETH socket removing after these.   Trying to decide if I will convert the later style marker lights to the 37/0 style on one of my spare sets of ends to go with that new body or if I go for one of the small number of 37/0 that had the later style marker lights....    Im thinking that drilling out and fitting a short length of an appropriate diameter brass tube would do the job, (or if thats not available doing the same as a print.)   I dont think etched rings are available (just the sealed beam lights).

 

 

 

 

[Daddyman]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

Worked really well thanks, definitely useful with two more sets still needing the ETH socket removing after these.   Trying to decide if I will convert the later style marker lights to the 37/0 style on one of my spare sets of ends to go with that new body or if I go for one of the small number of 37/0 that had the later style marker lights....    Im thinking that drilling out and fitting a short length of an appropriate diameter brass tube would do the job, (or if thats not available doing the same as a print.)   I dont think etched rings are available (just the sealed beam lights).

Good to hear! Tippex is a good filler too, though soggy plastic rod is its own filler. 

 

For the marker rims that's a tricky one. I'd print if you can as a first choice. After that, I'd be inclined to try brass tube, yes, or skimming the back or surrounds off some Shawplan marker dot panels - or just using transfers. Or ask Steve at Railtec to do 3d black rings - they'd be extremely useful to many people I'd imagine (me included). In fact, I think Steve would be first choice. 

 

[The Fatadder]

23 minutes ago, Daddyman said:

Good to hear! Tippex is a good filler too, though soggy plastic rod is its own filler. 

 

For the marker rims that's a tricky one. I'd print if you can as a first choice. After that, I'd be inclined to try brass tube, yes, or skimming the back or surrounds off some Shawplan marker dot panels - or just using transfers. Or ask Steve at Railtec to do 3d black rings - they'd be extremely useful to many people I'd imagine (me included). In fact, I think Steve would be first choice. 

 

thats a good point on doing them as a transfer, I had been thinking about adjusting my one piece 3d print to the standard version and add them to that, but doing it as a transfer would certainly be easier (and sorts out painting them as well.)  will drop him a line.

 

Just need to work out exactly what I am going to do now loco wise so I get the right ends sorted.   Always the problem with Class 37, there are just too many tempting locos to model!

[The Fatadder]

Attempted spraying the 37 ends this afternoon, annoyingly the paint ran out toward the end.  I think it’s gone on a bit too thick (I’ve used an aerosol as I never have any luck spraying yellows…)   So I think it will be going into paint stripper before having another go once it’s warmed up.  That said, despite the slightly thick paint the new boxes do look the part .

 

While I was working on prepping the noses I spotted 668 only has a one piece box at one end (and every photo I’d looked at showed that same end)…   I then double checked the other 37s only to realise the same is true with 674, a stroke of luck as I can just swap them round once the paint is finished to a suitable standard.

 

Should have another 37/0 body coming soon which will replace 230, I thought about a like for like replacement (but it would mean converting a set of sealed beam marker light ends to the original marker lights.

 

the alternative is a choice between 263 in Dutch (with some patch painting), a very ratty 225 in unbranded triple grey or 332 in coal (though this would need a marker light conversion on one end, and I’ve not seen any evidence of it on clay. It just looks different with the bonnet mounted horns.   
im also a little tempted by 375 in unbranded mainline blue for something a little different, though it would need the headcode boxes doing…

[Daddyman]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

never have any luck spraying yellows…

You cover the area with matt white first, right? 

 

Glad the boxes have worked out. 

 

Body didn't arrive today, sorry! Maybe Monday... 

[The Fatadder]

Aside from playing with Southgate Park at the Weston Show yesterday, the weekend has been spent doing a long overdue tidy up of the workshop.  (All be it a job that is still incomplete thanks to spending yesterday at said show...)  One benefit was finally finding a number of bits that had been lost (such as the etched class 37 window that was intended for 37521 but is now needed for 37668)

 

Sorting through a random bits box I found 3/4 of a Cambrian Shark that had been put to one side when the Hornby model was released and forgotten about.  The body was in a sorry state, with broken sides and a missing roof, however the underframe was in good condition.  I also came across my second Hornby shark (in Loadhaul), which was in an equally sorry state.   This has been converted to flush sides (just not particularly well), but also had the underframe destroyed during a failed attempt to fit etched w irons in order to get it P4ed. 

 

This got me thinking, given I have a good Cambrian chassis and a Hornby body which could at least (with a fair bit of work) be made good.  Could the two be combined?

 

After carefully cutting away the remains of the body from the Cambrian chassis the answer clearly is yes.  The end ballast weights, and plough equipment were all damaged / missing on the Cambrain model so will now need transferring across from the Hornby one.  Along with stripping the body and completely redoing to ensure the flush bits are completely flush.  All of which will happen at some later date, but it will be nice to save it (even if 3 sharks is somewhat overkill

 

The next 37 body has now arrived so really need to make a decision on the identity.   I had mistaken which body type it was I was getting so my original plans for a centre box loco have been put to one side (though I think 175 in blue will be on the eventual hit list).  I have one good split box end, 2 centre box ends and @Daddyman's part converted split box ends.    Loco wise its a toss up between 37010 in Dutch (with an extra big cutaway at one end), 025 in unbranded Large Logo (requiring a fair bit of repainting), or one of the rebuilt locos that ended up with a centre box end but a split box roof.  I am going to have a go finising off the existing ends first and then make my mind up as to the way forward.

 

Finally a small missing detail added to the layout, I found half of a pack of etched point leavers during the tidy.  So one of these has now been painted up and fitted to the point for the slurry siding.  While taking the below photo I realised I didnt weather the manhole covers before gluing them down, so this needs doing asap so they are not so garish!  (I also just stopped myself before destroying the cables linking the buildings thinking they were dirt......

Once this has dried I will back fill the area around it with a little more ballast to fully blend it in

Edited January 15 by The Fatadder

[The Fatadder]

More work on the new 37 last night, 

 

I have initially settled on 37025 in Large Logo livery, this will need both of the original ends finishing off (along with converting to a welded up door).   So the ends have been modified (including fitting a Replica high intensity headlight) and will be painted the next time the weather is suitable.   At which point the question will be whether the work around the lower edge where the old fairing was is up to scratch or not.   (If not I will pivot back to modelling 37010 using a last gen end for one side and the heavily cutaway end fo the other.)

 

As for the body it requires a few  changes from the standard model, along of course with a renumber.   First up the BR logos, numbers, scotty dog and the yellow band along the top of the body were removed with Microsol.  I had hoped to avoid paint, but there were a few marks / shinyness left over so the whole area was polished up with T cut.  Of course this means it will need varnishing, so the side glazing has been removed (the cab windows will have to be masked as once again there was too much glue.  I found the area that was covered by the yellow stripe along the top needed a slight repaint, the Phoenix blue doesnt quite match the Bachmann shade (but this area will be quite dirty so its not the end of the world)

 

Remaining work includes:

Respray the roof in Rail Grey

New number transfers / Stag logos 

Cab front needs the black extending up to the roof (which will have to be done with the glazing in situ

Nose grills need to be painted black

Change OHLE flashes to post 98

I think there is some sort of additional part that needs adding to the cab roofs (radio pods?)

New names

Weathering (including lots of paint damage on the prototype around the doors)

finally I am trying to work out how I can get access to the lights with the nose attached to the end.  Possibly by removing one of the end body fittings (and only screwing the light board in on one side).  Ideally I’d like to fit the end to the body, fill the joint, then spray the whole yellow area in one go 

Edited January 16 by The Fatadder

[Daddyman]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

At which point the question will be whether the work around the lower edge where the old fairing was is up to scratch or not. 

Exciting stuff, Rich. Glad you found a use - sorry if there was a mix-up on the body. I hope the work will be up to scratch!