Jump to content
 

S7 scratch building


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

Fairly common actually in mid-late 19th century. You get most of the benefit of sprung buffers but for half the cost.

 

75% of the benefit - if all wagons are semi-sprung-buffered, 25% of the time one would end up with dumb buffer to dumb buffer.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Surely not so, Stephen.  With wagon turntables all over the place and a simple rule - towards London equals dumb - you'd soon have it sorted.  Wagons will only turn round on a triangle or a wagon turntable.  The former would probably be less common and as it would be either a full train or substantial cut of wagons, would still keep the dumb to sprung plan in place.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I think I have gotten all the ironwork on but not the bolt heads. I now have to decide if it is worth trying to put the chamfer on the edge of the timbers. In the past I have done this on brake vans and other vans using a little trick of putting a backing piece of brass in to the opening for the blade to rest against. I mark the start and the end of the chamfer with a pencil and then put a small notch in with the blade before dragging the blade along the edge. This is a risky business that can go wrong. Decisions decisions ?

 

A few years back I finally found a drawing of a medium GE cattle wagon ( in a book on southern wagons covering IOW stock!) and managed to produce one using plasticard but found the woodwork didn't look right until I chamferred the wood edges as per the prototype. It seemed to change the whole character/look of the wagon in a way it's hard to explain but I would suggest a non-perfect finish would still be better than leaving the posts square. Not that I am suggesting yours would be less than perfect, but with my skills mine certainly are as you can see.

 

post-12706-0-47164800-1507143305.jpg

 

regards,

 

Izzy

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Caley Jim and Izzy you both have produced fine models that I am pleased to see. I will have to do the chamfer on all the timbers now. If Jim can do it in 2mm then there is no excuse for me not to do it in 7mm.

I have started to put some of the nuts and coach bolts on ( more than 250 ) plus the tie rods and brake gear.

Izzy can you tell me about the letters T & L on your G.E.R cattle wagon ?

post-20018-0-94120000-1507188935_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Izzy, when I clicked 'agree', I meant I agree about the chamfering making a difference, not that your skills are in any way lacking.

 

Jim

 

Thanks Jim, I actually wouldn't have thought about it being anything else coming from your good self.

 

 

Izzy can you tell me about the letters T & L on your G.E.R cattle wagon ?

 

They are the initials for my light raiway based in North East Essex - completely fictitious - the Tendring Light. When the large cattle wagons arrived many of the small/medium ones were dispensed with as the large could be hired out as any of the sizes using adjustable partitions, and I assumed that like the IOW it obtained one of these secondhand, but with the westinghouse brakes removed/replaced by just a through pipe.

 

Izzy

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I have put quite a lot of nuts on one side and put a chamfer on the ends. I have to have a break from putting all those nuts on because they drive me silly if I don't. I am not sure if the chamfer will come out in the photo,s.

post-20018-0-32165100-1507296155_thumb.jpeg

post-20018-0-73990200-1507296167_thumb.jpeg

post-20018-0-86446800-1507296178_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I have most of the bolts on now after a early morning session at the workbench.

I needed a load for the twin timber wagon.

I found this lurking in the bits box. I am not sure I what a timber load or I might make some sort of girder for a bridge. Which ever I choose I will need some 4mm screw couplings and fine chain to secure the load.

I am going to the Keighley open day tomorrow with my pal Peter so l will be able to secure the necessary bits from the traders they as well as having a good diner and day out at the Worth Valley Railway.

post-20018-0-76303700-1507386191_thumb.jpeg

post-20018-0-57806600-1507386208_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 12
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

N15class, the springs and axle boxes are on there way. I hoped that they would have been here by now but I am a patient man, you have to be when you scratch build 85% of most models.

Anyway we went to the Keighley show today and I purchased the parts I wanted for the timber loads. The shackles are by Ambis obtained from Holiday Hobbies are are very cleanly etched. I bought both the small and medium size to see which would look the best.

They are etched from 16thou nickel so I cut out a pair from the medium fret and soldered them together. I am very pleased with the way the first one has turned out. The hard part I think is going to make the loads look like is is secure to travel on the main line without causing mayhem.

post-20018-0-94859800-1507480975_thumb.jpeg

post-20018-0-44725400-1507480991_thumb.jpeg

Edited by airnimal
  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Today I was going to have my daughter over with my new grandson but she has left the car seat in her partners car so she could not come. I will see her tomorrow so I went into the workshop and did a bit more on the cattle wagon.

post-20018-0-67691600-1507643323_thumb.jpeg

post-20018-0-51108800-1507643336_thumb.jpeg

Edited by airnimal
  • Like 9
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Compound 2632, the worn planks are made with a file card brushed over the plastkard when it is in the flat. A light rub over with fine abrasive paper and that is it.

 

Over on your thread I was not complaining about the L.N.W.R. Society I was just stating that I have never come across any ballast brake vans. I am very happy being a member. If I have offended anybody I then I apologise. I only posted on your thread when I noticed you building a Dia 16 brake van.

post-20018-0-44090700-1507644685_thumb.jpeg

post-20018-0-71484100-1507644700_thumb.jpeg

Edited by airnimal
  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Now that the wagon is in primer the chamfer on the framing is obvious and well worth the effort.

I couldn't agree more!  Really adds to the character of the vehicle and these end planks are superb.

 

Jim

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I'm building my models from the 1870's to about 1900. I don't know when the practice was banned but I am sure it was after the date that I intend to model. I am sure someone on here will tell me I have got this wrong.

post-20018-0-99232100-1507795281_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Limewash was banned in the mid 1920s, no later than 1927 (probably the beginning of).

 

Nice job on the weathering!

 

Edit: Discussed here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/70648-cattle-wagons-and-limewashwhitewash/

Edited by Regularity
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...