sir douglas Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 ive been once but its quite a treck for somebody that doesnt have their own transport. train to keighley via leeds then either walk up or get the worth valley up to ingrow and walk down Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 17, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 17, 2019 (edited) Quote I was not convinced I had the ends of this wagon correct, so I went back to the photos on the Warwickshire Railway web site and had another look. This is of the accident at Leek Wooton where a freight train fell through a unstable bridge. I have based this model on one of the wagons in this set of photographs. I had originally just used the side views in the recently published book on thr diary of Thomas Baron. But when I went back to the web site there was a better shot showing the ends with a clearer view.. This shows the corner plates curved around the ends rather than bent at a right angle. So I decided to take all the details off both ends and started again. I am not sure if I have got all this 100% correct nor do I believe any body will know any different. Edited October 17, 2019 by airnimal 7 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Oh so very noticeable. I shall be pleased to see this particular model in the future. Best wishes, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 18, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 18, 2019 I have added the leather buffer heads from 60 thou plastikard stuck on with superglue and when set, turned in a mini drill. I have also started to apply the rivets to the corner plates from .4 mm MasterClub rivets. These are tiny and trying to them in line is a nightmare. Even though I have drawn lines to follow with a pencil I have still managed to get one out of line. And drilling with a 12 thou drill without breaking any is a heart in the mouth job. There is still lots to do but I am already thinking about some more wagons. I would like to do some more wagons from the 1860's or 1870's. I know there are kits from Parliamentary Trains but I tend to make a hash out of kit building. It must be me because other people make excellent models from them. I need to drill the holes for the fixing bolts in the buffer heads. I have done it before but I can't remember how I did to get the holes in the right place. The joys of old age. 9 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 Hi ya Mike Where did you get the buffers John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 18, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 18, 2019 John, They are PECO GWR wagon buffers from there 7mm range. I file the bolt heads off the base plate and replace them with Masterclub .9mm hexagonal bolts. I then stick a piece of 60 thou to the buffer face and let it dry before turning it in a mini drill to the required diameter. I hope this helps. Mike 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted October 19, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted October 19, 2019 (edited) Looking at the photo above of the prototype wagon and looking at my own model, I can see I didn't get the holes in the right place. I may go back and do them again sometime. This time I have marked a circle with a pencil in the lathe on the face of the buffer heads. I then drew a cross over this circle and drilled the 4 holes necessary. Edited October 19, 2019 by airnimal 10 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 21, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2019 (edited) On the photos I am working from there appears to have 6 pegs spaced under the sides I am assuming were for anchor points for ropes to tie down loads. I marked them equally and drilled the 6 holes to accept .45mm nickel wire. I left the wire slightly long to trim them back later. I drilled a piece of 40 thou plastikard and slipped it over the holes one at a time and filed them to size. This way they are all the same length. The photos don't appear to show them as hooks just length of metal rods. Edited October 21, 2019 by airnimal 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted October 21, 2019 Share Posted October 21, 2019 As a side issue what are you doing for LNWR transfers? I would used HMRS but you can't get hold of them for the moment. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 21, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 21, 2019 Marc, I was lucky enough to be given a lot of HMRS meth fix transfers many years ago when a friend gave up building models. Being meth fix they still work after all this time and I have enough for my needs. What I am running out of is casting for LNWR wagons but I still have lots of castings for other companies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 23, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2019 More or less finished with just the castings to go on and painting to complete. I do like early wagons, so simple yet so full of character. 15 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 23, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2019 (edited) I was convinced I had finished this wagon but something didn't look right but I couldn't put my finger on it. I had to go back to the photographs and look again. What I had done was bend the brake handle to clear the axleboxes which would have been correct for 99% of wagons, but this one was different because it had a straight handle without any bends. Because I had made so many wagons I had allowed myself to assume they were all the same and acted accordingly, so a new handle has been made and fitted. I have checked that the handle will clear the axleboxes which it does. Edited October 24, 2019 by airnimal 6 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted October 24, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2019 Never assume, always look. I've fallen into that trap often enough! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Rixon Posted October 24, 2019 Share Posted October 24, 2019 What's different about this one that it doesn't need the bent lever for clearance? Does it have different axleboxes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted October 24, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 24, 2019 Guy, the axleboxes are the same but the brake lever is spaced off solebar which I hadn't noticed when I first built it. I also used the wrong section of brass when I made the spindle that goes to the brake shoe. This has now been corrected with a smaller piece of brass. One problem i find scratch building is that I am not very organised. I have boxes of parts scattered everywhere along with materials. So sometimes I pick up a bit of brass to make a part that looks right with out checking it with the callipers and get it wrong. I try to have discipline as well as a tidy workbench but it never lasts for long. 7 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 5, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 5, 2019 After finishing the last wagon I have not done a lot of modelling. I finished a couple of old builds that had been hanging around for some time but family matters have been taken priority over modelling. I have decided to wait until spring before doing anything about building or buying baseboards to start the layout, So having boxes of wagon bits I will build some more stock. This one is a 4 plank private owner wagon base on a photo of Oldham Glegg Street taken in 1879. I have based the size on a drawing of a similar wagon in Len Tavender book on railway equipment drawings. The basic parts have even cut out and the frame made. The sides have had the door scribed on but the ends have yet to be shaped with the curved corners. 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 5, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 5, 2019 The ends were cut to size and glued on the frame and left to set. Them the first side was glued on and trimmed to the correct length before the second side was glued on and clamped in place with a spacing piece in between the sides and left to go hard. This second side will then be trimmed back to size. 8 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 6, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 6, 2019 (edited) I am going to use Slaters Midland W -irons on this wagon for no better reason than I have half a dozen in stock. Because the photo is of a wagon is so distant I am not sure how close they are to the prototype but I am going to use them anyway. When I have used them in the past I have cut off the fixing tags and let them into slots in the solebars. This time I wanted to be able to screw them into the floor. Slaters supply them with self tapping screws which may be fine with kit built wagons with solid plastic floors but would not work with my method of floors made from 60 thou plastkard. I wanted to use my own method of using 12 BA nuts melted in a second piece of 60 thou plastikard and then the W-irons screwed in to that. So I have modified the W-irons by soldering a length of 3mm X 3mm T section obrass on the back of each one. I then drilled through fixing tags before removing the same tags. I made a couple base plates out of 60 thou plastikard and melted the 12 BA nuts in pre drilled holes with the tip of the soldering iron and cleaned everything up before glueing both units to the floor. Edited November 10, 2019 by airnimal 10 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Western Star Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 The penultimate photo seems out of place in your most recent post.... black floor whereas the Wigan model has a white floor... slot in solebar for the axleguard rather than the 12BA nuts in a 60th layer. So what is the next delight for us? regards, Graham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 (edited) Just a thought you might want to blacken the axleguides and boxes. Paint can easily gum them up- I speak from experience...! Edited November 6, 2019 by Tricky 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 19 hours ago, airnimal said: I am going to use Slaters Midland W -irons on this wagon for no better reason than I have half a dozen in stock. Because the photo is of a wagon is so distant I am not sure how close they are to the prototype but I am going to use them anyway. When I have used them in the past I have cut of the fixing tags and let them into slots in the solebars. This time I wanted to be able to screw them into the floor. Slaters supply them with self tapping screws which may be fine with kit built wagons with solid plastic floors but would not work with my method of floors made from 60 thou plastkard. I wanted to use my own method of using 12 BA nuts melted in a second piece of 60 thou plastikard and then the W-irons screwed in to that. So I have modified the W-irons by soldering a length of 3mm X 3mm T section obrass on the back of each one. I then drilled through fixing tags before removing the same tags. I made a couple base plates out of 60 thou plastikard and melted the 12 BA nuts in pre drilled holes with the tip of the soldering iron and cleaned everything up before glueing both units to the floor. Mike, That is a very neat idea which I must try on my next wagon build. I have a few wagons with the self tappers showing through the floor, easily hidden by a load but not all wagons run loaded! In the past I have soldered the w-irons onto a piece of brass which I have then glued under the body but I have usually left the under frame timbers off the model. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 7, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 7, 2019 Graham, the frame you mention was one of many that don't get any further for one reason or another. I would rather terminate something early on than waste more hours only to be disappointed later on. Tricky, I always blacken the brass parts after polishing to make sure the axleboxes slide properly. Time spent early on pays dividends later, especially with Slaters W-irons. I make sure there isn't any side play but tight enough to allow the wheels to spin freely. I also pre bend the sides before assembly and then place packing blocks inside to help keep the shape while handling. It is one of my pet hates to see lines of coal wagons at exhibitions with the sides bowing inwards 8 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 8, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 8, 2019 I have done a bit more to this old dumb buffer wagon. I am not claiming this to be an accurate model because I am only working from one side view. So there is going to be a fair bit of guess work involved but using examples and drawings of other wagons from the same era I am hoping it will not be to far out. The brake gear is of course on the opposite side of the photo but appears to show one brake block only. So I have cut down one of my own castings from my brake van kit ( if any body wants these 8' 6" brass castings PM me ) and modified it to a single shoe. i have started to detail the body but there is still along way to go. Included on the body is a board that acts as a label clip, which is the biggest I have seen on any wagon. The wagon appears to be painted grey with black iron work and has two large letters T and L painted on the sides with M&SL rly in small letters. This is one of the reasons that I choose this model to build because I thought it would be easier to letter by hand. 8 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 9, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 9, 2019 Before I get to far with the details I have drawn the lettering on the side to see I have I can do the painted letters. It looks reasonable but there will have to be some tweaking. Rubbing out the pencil marks has left the wagon looking very grubby and it will need a good wash before painting 11 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted November 11, 2019 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 11, 2019 Getting close to the end now with most of the details applied. The brake handle has yet to be made and a few other bits to do. 7 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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