RMweb Gold john new Posted July 14, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 14, 2017 Probably cheaper. is to use 2 hinges (one front, one back) set everything up with the hinges holding the boards together. When happy, lknock out the pins. Alignment will be assured and can be held together by reinserting a pin - probably not those you have driven out. Screwfix do a range with the pins loose. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie586 Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 This is a good idea Luke. I've followed as I'm planning a layout with a similar expense of about £10 a month (though I have got a mountain of stock and other stuff to help). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
long island jack Posted July 14, 2017 Share Posted July 14, 2017 I built a small set of leg for my 4x1 layout Brewery sidings, the layout is stable. when at exhibition, the plan is it will sit on a provided table and the viewing height will be (standing) about 42" or without legs (sitting) 32", all depending of height of table provided! Ray 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Looks good. So I will look into purchasing some pegs and clips. Sounds good and brewery sidings looks great! Thanks for the advice about the foam board as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatB Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 If you're using alignment pegs/dowels, a cheap alternative to clips might be some suitably smooth hooks and some big elastic bands made from shock cord taken from pound-shop bungee straps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hermes Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Try a bit of skip diving? It's amazing what builders throw out, MDF off cuts, old work surface chipboard etc, much stronger than cardboard. Although you should ask first this often lights pound signs up in builders eyes but you can always walk away. (and go back at night SAS style!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Ok. Will keep my eyes open for some skips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackRat Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Try a bit of skip diving? It's amazing what builders throw out, MDF off cuts, old work surface chipboard etc, much stronger than cardboard. Although you should ask first this often lights pound signs up in builders eyes but you can always walk away. (and go back at night SAS style!) See if you've a local shop fitting firm. I used to get industrial amounts of off cuts that they just skipped, happybfor me to take as they had to pay to remove it. Used to fill the Police car up on nights! The off cuts would be as useful as 8x2 sheets of 12 or 15 mm mdf and everything in between. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Will keep my eyes open. Got a rolling stock update coming soon. Go an awesome bargain today! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 So what did I buy today??? Well today I picked up a real bargain. I managed to purchase two hst class 43 dummy cars for £10. Yep, both for only £10 and one of the units even has working lights!!!! So that's this months budget spent on some power cars that I hope to turn into my own flying banana. Here are some pictures of them. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 These pictures have been taken in my current oo gauge layout - Ravendale. This is a fictitious heritage railway set in the north east of England and has a small mpd which is featured in the pictures. The layout measures 8ft x 1ft including the fidlleyard. It is dcc controlled. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Liam Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 Much as though I'd love to, I can't go DCC because my fleet is far too large and it would take forever and a day to convert them all. But one of the advantages of DCC is that you can control more than one loco on one track, so you might be able to store an 08 shunter in the siding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 Yep. Means that people who hate isolating sections can run their trains in peace....... Unless you forget to move on of the trains out of the way because analogue control does that foe you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 I plan to convert these hst power cars into a network rail flying banana. The ready printed transfers are quite expensive for me so I looked into printing my own using a inkjet printer and inkjet waterslide paper off amazon. Is this a good idea or am I creating myself a messy, inky situation? Amy advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted July 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 17, 2017 I plan to convert these hst power cars into a network rail flying banana. The ready printed transfers are quite expensive for me so I looked into printing my own using a inkjet printer and inkjet waterslide paper off amazon. Is this a good idea or am I creating myself a messy, inky situation? Amy advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Hi Luke, I use inkjet water slide paper from amazon. It is really good as long as you use it properly. Firstly you want white paper and to print the background colour onto it, it you get the clear paper then it won't show up as your printer assumes it has white, trust me I tried! Once you have printed the transfer you need to leave it for a couple of hours to dry, it needs to be left flat or it may run. Once it has dried you need to seal the sheet with varnish, I use Plasti-kote for this, also from Amazon It then needs to be left to dry again, I leave this another couple of hours to make sure it is really dry. You can then cut out and apply the transfers to the loco, It slides on and sitcks better if you have a gloss finish. Then leave the model to dry. Once it has dried you need to varnish the loco. Then you are finally done!! There are plenty of locos on my Oak Hill thread that have been done in this way and they all look good, the hardest part is matching the background colour. Hope this helps, Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 18, 2017 Author Share Posted July 18, 2017 Thanks Gary. One quick question - this may sound like a stupid question but if the background of the logo/number is clear then do I need to buy clear transfer paper or white transfer paper? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted July 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 18, 2017 Luke that may be a problem! The white obviously won't work unless you are very good at cutting around the number, I wouldn't want to do that. If it were me I would try the clear transfer paper first, just be aware that it may not come out right and you may need a few goes at adjusting the colour to get close to what you want, and even then it may not be able to manage it. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zomboid Posted July 18, 2017 Share Posted July 18, 2017 Obviously you can't print any white numbering/ lettering on a conventional inkjet printer either... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Very true. I've checked that what I want to print has no white on it. Another question I have is should I tell the computer what it is printing on (in the printer properties area) or should I keep the setting at white paper? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted July 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 19, 2017 I have never worried about changing the paper type when printing. Although you can't print in white that is only a problem if you are using clear paper as if you use white you can print what is around the white bit. I am looking forward to seeing the results. Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 Hi Gary, I'm afraid you will have to wait for a couple of weeks as I have already spent this months budget. I will make up some transfers for my unmarked white transit van (see picture). I plan to make up some railway logos to be put on the side of the van which will brand the van as belonging to the fictional heritage railway that it currently belongs to. Cheers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted July 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 19, 2017 Luke, Do not worry I am familiar with working to a budget, in fact I have got quite good at it! That van will look good with some railway logos on it. I was assuming the transfers were going to be for the Flying Banana. Once you get started it is quite addictive, which reminds me, I have some transfers to get on with designing! Gary Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Hi Gary, Like you say, it is easy to get side tracked. I hope to use the van as a kind of test model I can practice on so I will be able to develop and practice the skills required before moving onto making and applying the transfers for the flying banana. I have also encountered another difficultly with the flying banana. I would like to have a permanent coupling hook on the loco so I could couple it up to a loco. I have no idea how to go about this but I would like it to look prototypical (accept for the actual coupling hook itself). Any advice? Thank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted July 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 21, 2017 (edited) Hi Luke, I like the idea of having a coupling. I had a look on google and found this image of the HST with its coupling door open http://www.totnestrains.com/uploads/6/9/2/9/6929845/43087-13-05-17-5z74_3_orig.jpg I don't think this would be to much work to replicate on the models. Cutting out the square cat the front and then sticking it back on higher up. My preference would then be to use the slimline couplers which would be the most discreet. You could have a rather nice looking set once this is done! and without spending loads of money! Gary PS. I never did get those transfers done, I got sidetracked by something else!! Edited July 21, 2017 by BlueLightning Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zomboid Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 NMT power cars 43013 and 43014 are some of those which are fitted with buffers. (Not sure if they're part of the train now, but they definitely have been according to Google images) How you'd go about fitting some is not something I could advise on though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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