When TT3 was the next Big Thing

[cypherman]

On 25/03/2021 at 15:31, Golden Fleece 30 said:

Butler Henderson "completed" with the 247 Developments name and number plates. The Precision Satin varnish looks to glossy to me (as the J52 did). I may respray one day with Railmatch satin, as in the locos above, but it will be fine for now. The wheels may need touching up but it is a lovely model, especially as I was given it for nothing. I was told that this loco was never lined out in BR black during steam days although it was in preservation so I have gone for unlined.

 

Garry

Very pretty

 

[Robert Shrives]

Couple pics of yesterdays "fun with superglue."  Three early Lenny Sweeny resin class 47 bodies - latest efforts in 3D print so much better - so out with the microstrip to add missing rainstrips  etc.

cut away buffer beam version for variation, beam is ex 3SMR class 25 kit castings.

Side view bodyside window frames based on Dapol N gauge signal ladders with rungs removed- spot on which for me has to be luck not judgement...  This one will be an Intercity liveried affair. 

 

Today has seen the window bar in the cabside windows added currently working on how to improve windscreens to have the rubber surround - soft iron wire around a former looks to be the wayforward - overscale but hopefully ok with a lick of paint - eventually. 

 

I seem to have 5 bodyshells but with two of the 3mm society chassis I can swap bodies easily enough.     

[Ben B]

4 hours ago, Golden Fleece 30 said:

The answer is loco wheels not straight away.  There are two different ways to do this. 1) move the wheels out on the axles approx 0.5mm but that can stop them going around Tri-ang track although if Tri-ang track is not going to be used again no problem.  I modify the points, straight ones are very easy and it just needs about 0.25 to 0.5 removing from the plastic checkrail only.  Double slips and curved points need a little extra work but if you look up GarryHall on YouTube you should find one or two of my videos.  My locos are nearly all Tri-ang based but if not the 00 Romfords are used.

 

Some Jinty's, and all open spoked, wheels will hit the chairs so need the flange depth reducing slightly.  

 

The stock wheels should be okay if you put a 0.5 washer in the gap.

 

 

Garry

 

Cheers for that, very helpful!  I was thinking of just a simple plank/shelf layout with a couple of points, to try the scale out.  I got a box of very old and battered TT stuff for another project (as underpinnings for a miniature line), and there's a Triang 08, a few wagons, and a Rokal (I think) DB railbus set surplus to requirements.  I was thinking of selling them on, but they're just so characterful, so I'm thinking of just having something nice for a little play with as a light-railway micro.

 

Further question, if you don't mind me cheekily asking; could you recommend a replacement motor for the streamlined SR pacific too?  There's one, minus motor but with the chassis free-rolling and otherwise intact, and I love the prototypes.  It would be nice to get it going again.

[Silverfox17]

54 minutes ago, Ben B said:

 

Cheers for that, very helpful!  I was thinking of just a simple plank/shelf layout with a couple of points, to try the scale out.  I got a box of very old and battered TT stuff for another project (as underpinnings for a miniature line), and there's a Triang 08, a few wagons, and a Rokal (I think) DB railbus set surplus to requirements.  I was thinking of selling them on, but they're just so characterful, so I'm thinking of just having something nice for a little play with as a light-railway micro.

 

Further question, if you don't mind me cheekily asking; could you recommend a replacement motor for the streamlined SR pacific too?  There's one, minus motor but with the chassis free-rolling and otherwise intact, and I love the prototypes.  It would be nice to get it going again.

The Rokal loco might not run on Peco as they usually have very coarse wheels and don't run on Tri-ang track. 

 

I cannot say about replacement motors as I usually try to use Tri-ang ones but have a couple of Mashima ones although they are fitted to a scratchbuilt chassis. Also fitting the Tri-ang worm could be an issue and a sleeve would be required. 

 

Garry 

[Golden Fleece 30]

Two more of the "Tri-ang" trio of 8 coupled locos. The 8F and SR class Z.  All are fitted with Tri-ang wheels and motors and have run but all 3 still need some work/modification.  The 8F needs the rear end lifting slightly, it was a job to get the XT60 in but I managed it.  The Z class needs a clearance hole for the cylinder mounting screw as the body is resting on it at the moment.  At least they all have a strong "solid" chassis as such and not like tissue paper ones supplied.

 

Garry

[David_Belcher]

On 27/03/2021 at 07:21, Silverfox17 said:

Thats what I was told David, all Scottish ones lined and all English ones unlined.  I tried to find if any English were ever lined but no luck so went along with what I was told. 

 

Garry 

Could've sworn I'd posted a follow-up to this but anyway - "Princess Mary" was (I think) based at Darnall in the 50s and was lined black. Here's a pic of it at Rotherwood near Sheffield:

https://www.semaphoresandsteam.com/p36854212/h420AC54A#h420ac54a

"Zeebrugge" was also lined, I have a slight hunch that both might have been so treated for double-headed railtour use (RCTS "Pennine Pullman" springs to mind)...

 

Edit: "Somme" was fully lined too. These 3 seem to be the exceptions?

 

Second edit: Also "Prince of Wales" & "Jutland" in mixed traffic black. "Marne" was plain black, "Prince Albert" had a very odd style of white lining on the splashers only.

 

David

Edited March 30, 2021 by David_Belcher
Information added.

[roythebus1]

Regarding track, does anyone use the Tillig TT track? I've used their HO stuff and it's quite good, better in my opinion that Peco.

[Silverfox17]

8 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

Regarding track, does anyone use the Tillig TT track? I've used their HO stuff and it's quite good, better in my opinion that People. 

I have experimented with a few points and some allow Tri-ang wheels through but others would not, the double slip is in the latter. All these were open sleeper not the moulded ballast type. None of them have a locking mechanism to hold the blades across which to me was poor. 

 

Garry 

[Robert Shrives]

Last day off work so a few pics of works done.

Front is a Triang Brit/ MN mongrel, Bec 5, Lenny Clan and rear Lenny WC/ BoB. Lots to do of course cut down tenders on the bench for mods.

A quick first shot of a recreation 21 GWR razor car in finest detail plastic, along with 3mm soc GWR square shanked buffers, Shapeways "signature" lines show well here but are not obvious on the model, decals, lines and a bit of rail dirt to disguise.  Sat on a batch of yellow ended,  Blue boxes in progress.    

[Robert Shrives]

Some wagons got move on as well. 

Air braked VCA and VAB garnished with Railtec decals.

4 More in early AB freight brown two in RF/ decals and two with just the arrow of indecision as they first flew back in 1976. All are based around 3mm society shop items with plasticard floors - floating w irons and roofs from kits or curved plasticard and filler- proabably less if I was a better modeller but hopefully with more transfers from Railtecs for the TOPS panels and some grot then they will look the part. Amazingly these were started 10 years ago .. sat on Chipping Compton which will get the "swerves" having AB stock on a GW (region) 1950s-ish timed layout.  The jaunty angle due to wheels being out for painting.   

[D9020 Nimbus]

6 hours ago, Silverfox17 said:

I have experimented with a few points and some allow Tri-ang wheels through but others would not, the double slip is in the latter. All these were open sleeper not the moulded ballast type. None of them have a locking mechanism to hold the blades across which to me was poor. 

 

Garry 

You need to buy the "hand drive" separately or use a point motor. This sort of arrangement seems to be quite common with some European suppliers. The "Kato-style" sectional track moulded ballast points do have a locking mechanism, however. But I've no idea whether they take Triang wheels or not.

[Robert Shrives]

Well such a lovely day for being stuck inside the railcar got a push - by luck more than judgement but a plasticard chasssis, Mike Chinnery 12mm motor bogie from last century! MJT bogie with added pick up . 

couple of small weights added. 

 

 

And with body popped on - need to sort fixings but end and middle screw points easily adapted. The wires I think I will replace with two bits of etch scrap so making inside a bit easier. It runs the bogie intended for 12mm NG so gearing for about -not many MPH but to shuffle fiddle to station - all of 9 feet it does not want to be a hare , a quieter runner would be good as gear noise is high but then other than a  quick oil that is the most it has done in 25 years! 

[NCB]

21 hours ago, roythebus1 said:

Regarding track, does anyone use the Tillig TT track? I've used their HO stuff and it's quite good, better in my opinion that Peco.

 I tried the "bedding" track, designed and possibly made by Kato, to see if it would work with Triang TT. Only problem was that the Triang loco wheel flanges can bottom out on the (non-powered) frog so the loco can stall. It's possible that deepening it slightly with say a cutting disc might remove the problem. If so it would be OK for anyone happy with sectional track.

[Robert Shrives]

Had to have a little plug of course but if this were to work ..... 

 

[Golden Fleece 30]

Painted now and will have to wait until the smokebox number from 247 Developments arrives before I varnish it. I do prefer this tender logo, usually, but I wanted the later one and non in stock here and I am not one to wait if I don't have to. The cylinder cover is not fixed yet as that will be once the chassis is finished, hopefully not too long now.

 

Garry

[Il Grifone]

I find waiting always means it never gets done!  Or is that just me?  

[Silverfox17]

5 minutes ago, Il Grifone said:

I find waiting always means it never gets done!  Or is that just me?  

It can do for me too at tines, or takes a lot longer than normal. Having said that sometimes it is a necessity like not having any transfers in at all. The 8F has been on the go for about 18 months and then as soon as I got the WD body I decided to get on and do both using the same parts apart from crosshead and slidebars. 

 

Garry 

[Robert Shrives]

 

Wagons now have last transfers added - number panels, just couplings and job done .. Railcar has got roundel and 3mm soc friend has number sets - well the PO has them at the moment but perhaps next week.   158s are a diversion - lovely 3d print had yellow ends for a while but a quick mask has seen roof and body beige - I am going to try the first livery with lots of stripes !

Well one that got away !  BR blue suburban coaches - two ebay bargains and a moment of "why not" I guess a 31 could have been used. White marker pen for numbers and a bit of fox yellow lines to garnish, will need to chop up numbers to add identity, albeit a fake one - but as that is the current normal hopefully allowable!     

[Golden Fleece 30]

Thanks to Leonard Seeney my bank account is depleted a little more. This time for Bulleid's 10201 which I will do in twin O/B/O lined green. I think this is the last diesel loco I will want.

Here is a link to Lenny's website where he now advertises the loco bodies.

 

https://lincoln-loco.co.uk/

 

Also painting black the WD wheels loose the unusual shape so trying a little weathering shows them off more.

 

Garry

[Lacathedrale]

What chassis do you put under these lovely 3D printed bodies? When I checked out TT way back when, the big issue was that there was no easily available diesel chassis/bogie units!

[Robert Shrives]

4 minutes ago, Lacathedrale said:

What chassis do you put under these lovely 3D printed bodies? When I checked out TT way back when, the big issue was that there was no easily available diesel chassis/bogie units!

Hi 

Well getting there is the phrase - for the class 24 and family a Tilling elecric eruo locos in 1:120 is as good as drop in fit .   For larger then it is a case of mixing it up with continental chassis with a slice of compromise.  Often It might mean adding and extra non driven axle (S) to form a better UK Co - Co.   

Via the 3mm society are some brilliant chassis kits for a central drive to both bogies, complete with a casting to glue in the roof that the chassis spine can be glued.   Lately development by Geoff Helliwell has seen a design using N20 geared motors on a new powered bogie unit - I have a set for a Hymek to start - I will put up some pics on a new thread. 

Also via Society is a near to rtr class 47 - it is a 3D body on a converted Tillig chassis and is brilliant but only around   40 made  and currently a n-rtr 03 shunter and small steam loco- austerity/J94  is in development.  Several memebers are working on motor bogie projects for railcar/dmus. 

3SMR having moved premsies ( house) have some Halling power units  and Tilling stock as a basis for works.  But you are quite right the lack of a powered chassis to the quality of the bodies continues to vex! 

Robert    

[Robert Shrives]

Bus and railcar now have been to the "decal shop" and now at final varnish and glazing stage 

I can fully recommend making use of made up number sets from Railtec ! - these are old school fox indivdual numbers and W 79977 is not recommended for sanity !  roundel by Fox and silver line from very old N stocks.

 Railcar has CCT number and whiskers/lines and fox roundel. Careful cutting of the line to remove all bar a sliver of carrier as it is hard to bottom of window. But lovely to apply lines and colour just right to my eye. once glazed all that will be required will be to fit bogie sidframes but currently OOS at the society shop - which is a cavern of amazing bits and pieces along with complete kits and run by a society member.

158 sits waiting inspiration on masking colours for next spray of white.   

[Silverfox17]

9 hours ago, Lacathedrale said:

What chassis do you put under these lovely 3D printed bodies? When I checked out TT way back when, the big issue was that there was no easily available diesel chassis/bogie units!

I am a fair bit different to Roberts methods which he uses and are all satisfactory. 

 

For my diesels I use Tri-ang A1A motor bogies, for the Peak and 40's I file the frames down and glue dummy frames on. For my Bo-Bo's I have used Tri-ang DMU bogies and have a couple of Halling for E3001 and D800 Warship. 

 

For my steam locos I try where possible to fit a Tri-ang chassis, others I draw my own up to be etched using Tri-ang motors and wheels where possible with the odd ones having Romford wheels with a Mashima motor. 

 

So far I have over 30 of these 3D printed bodies which certainly gives a great variation in TT. 

 

Garry 

Edited April 9, 2021 by Silverfox17

[Golden Fleece 30]

Two more of Leonard Seeney's masterpieces arrived today, the Co-Bo and V3. I have already cleaned up and primed the Co-Bo (hopefully some colour tomorrow if warm) but the V3 will be a little longer as I have not decided the best chassis option yet.

The Co-Bo will be powered by the Tri-ang A1A motor bogie and the V3 by the Britannia or Castle chassis hopefully. TT has never had it so good.

 

Garry

[Golden Fleece 30]

The Z class painted up and awaiting a smokebox numberplate from 247Developments before a satin varnish to hide the lines caused by the very, very thin metal used, this angle does not show them up. This and the WD have numbers from Railtec which seem to be very good so far.

 

Garry