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Hills of the North - The Last Great Project


LNER4479
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1 hour ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

, or go downstairs to join all the modellers sat on their roundtuit piles feeding the flames?

 

Mike.


"Pleased to meet you; hope you guess my na-"
"Robert."
"...what?"
"You're called Robert."
"How could you possibly know... wait. You modelled the ECML, didn't you..."

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7 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Ah, well - each to their own I guess. And there's some bloomin' clever stuff both of you do respectively that I wouldn't dare tackle ...

 

At risk of slight deviation, the following two pictures illustrate the approach on Grantham:

 

IMG_3813.JPG.059fe5ebc2bde65e20871bdf15520f32.JPG

 

IMG_3816.JPG.af6b2fe25114aa384596b95f7a8c1fc4.JPG

 

Left and right hand end of the same crossover. The motor is in the middle. This was just as it was being installed. The actuating pin (PL-10E) was cut to length once it was all proven and working. In this case, it was out of necessity in that the right hand point of the crossover is situated on the bridge - quite impossible to get a point motor underneath (I suppose I could have put of the them sideways surface motors in the ten foot ... but it wouldn't have been very good from an aesthetics point of view?). These ones on the bridge (there's two more to the right) always cause comment at exhibitions.

 

IMG_3807.JPG.cf5bdbd25f7fcfe33c3217d4cd530505.JPG

The 'trick' (if there is one?) is sturdy Mercontrol (formerly GEM) angle cranks and 1mm gardening wire. If you know the product, you can make out the cast bases for the cranks and the cranks themselves have had their outer holes of the cranks removed and the inner ones drilled out to take the 1mm wire. A bent over Peco trackpin is doing the guiding. The drive to the left hand point passes through a piece of 1/8" brass tube under the ballast (above) - if you zoom in closely enough on my pics above you can see the equivalent in the trough I've cut in the cork underlay. Obviously needs pre-installing before you lay the track for good!

 

Most of the others (on Grantham) are underneath the baseboard and use even stouter wire for the main push/pull connecting rod (from a florists shop, intended for flower displays!). I'm generally very comfortable with traditional mechanix like this - unlike electrickery, you can see what's going on!

(and isn't this the way folks used to build model railways in the days when the only supply of point motors was ex-GPO relays? Maybe I'm just a dinosaur that should have been rendered extinct many moons ago ...)

 

And now, back to some more (very traditional) wiring ...

 

Being only an electrickery engineer I am most impressed with your mechanical point operation.  Highly likely to be a lot cheaper than my normal designs.

Paul.

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image.png.d56504eb553c223e04d34572d93b6dd3.png

 

I also use Peco track and white / grey spray painted foam ballast, with much success. Easy to lay (and relay, change etc) also.

 

A little tip. When cutting to fit avoid the gap above above by cutting the foam slightly longer than half a gap as shown, the foam then slightly compresses to each other resulting in no gap. It can also be easilly twiddled into position with a small screwdriver etc. No need for any glue.

 

As your track is already laid, to avoid messing around try cutting a thin sliver of already painted ballast and again twiddle in place with a screwdriver. I've done this many times with 100% success..

 

Brit15

 

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Thanks. Quite au fait with what you say. A vital piece of info you're missing there is that is actually a baseboard joint. Not saying that it's impossible to get a clean join as you describe but it's certainly more of a challenge when it's continually coming apart and going back together again. It's quite likely that, at the time that photo was taken, the boards were just set up temporarily for maintenance. Can't remember - I've slept a lot since!

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12 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Yes, Clive - a simple screw. Plus, my perennial favourite slidy fishplates. The very ends of the Peco track are just floating (if you like), last track pin about 5 sleepers away. The fish plates just slide into place and automatically deal with the alignment.

 

That is for this, lower flap. Slight variation on the upper flap due to tighter radius; that's where I used those ST-238 33" set-track pieces, so no tendency for rails to spring back towards straight. But slidy fishplates otherwise.

I can recommend DCC Concepts dowels, mounted with the axis vertical, for the fly end (my lifting flap actually has them at both ends).

 

Usual disclaimer.

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23 hours ago, woodenhead said:

I thought the plan was to line the room with asbestos, then the railway acts as a pyre in the event the worst happens.

 

Mrs M tosses in the match, the room goes up Norse style and you go to the Great Hall to be welcomed by the modellers who have gone before.

 

I seem to remember that in a Viking funeral, the deceased is surrounded by his most treasured possessions before the longboat, and he, are set on fire.

 

What could be more treasured than the train set!

 

John.

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31 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

What DID take a humongous length of time was the mysterious electrical fault that revealed itself when I set the road for this move. You can see evidence of the fault finding with the trusty multimeter deployed.

Need to go and lie down now; I hate electrickery 😡

Dude, go DCC it's just two wires 🤣

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The two most wisest words I was ever told in my working career: "Don't bite"!

 

Anyhow, got stuff to do.

 

PXL_20230715_162820867.jpg.fb3cb27d587796132ec90093d0e107ff.jpg

Found there was yet more wiring required 

🙄

Carlisle North now takes its place on the Grand Junction part of Carlisle No.10 (Bog Junc) control panel, complete with route indication. Fortunately, I had pre-wired most of this; unfortunately, an indicator bulb became broke in the process ... Grr! The push button bottom right is temporary, pending installation of block indicator.

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Just to be clear, it ain’t two wires and it is not anxiety free.

 

DC has a lot of benefits.

 

Convinced myself earlier I had blown a chip, when in fact it was perfectly fine and I was an idiot.  
 

Two wires it can be, but it doesn’t remove the human error aspect.

 

Anyway, the last great project progresses and is looking good.

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12 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

isn't 90% of household dust supposed to be dead human skin?

Probably best to keep dead humans out of the railway room then.

 

12 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

You can see evidence of the fault finding with the trusty multimeter deployed.

Go on, tell us.

 

8 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

The two most wisest words I was ever told in my working career: "Don't bite"!

The two wisest words in married (other relationships are available) life are "Yes, dear".

 

6 hours ago, woodenhead said:

Just to be clear, it ain’t two wires

It's just multiples of two wires - but, then, so is DC.

 

3 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

pressing the nearest red button to draw it out of the handover section

So you don't have to remember to turn your bl00dy links off (other expletives are available)?

 

 

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Now then, observers may have noted the the layout is using DCC "Duette Command and Control.. is digital cos you use your digits to rotate the control knobs... 

 

Hat, coat, sees ya later!

 

Baz

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6 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

So you don't have to remember to turn your bl00dy links off (other expletives are available)?

 

Exactly!

 

56 minutes ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

 

Video camera broken then?!!

 

Mike.

All in good time ... have you been good?

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17 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Probably best to keep dead humans out of the railway room then.

 

 

In some cases, there is a good argument for keeping live ones out as well.

 

Adrian

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